Another Rig in the Crashfab shop......

[crash]

So prepping to do the fuel system one thing I have done time and again is re-use one of the toy tube nuts that way I can use the stock rubber line that goes from the tank to the frame rail.



Since I run all new 3/8 hardline its a tad bigger than the toy metric tube so drilling the tube nut is required. Make sure to drill from the flared end in case the drill walks the hole to one side.

So here is the trick I use to drill the tube nut. Simply use a deep socked with a breaker bar clamped in a drill vise and makes it super simple..

[crash]

I always like to use a gm fuel filter when its possible.




In the past I have made a mount similar to the fuel pump mount but I happen to look at the stock fuel filter I pulled off and didn't realize how similar the diameter of the fuel filters were.

Well I'll be damned if it wasn't almost a perfect fit.



So one thing that kinda troubled me with the E2000 pump was the fact the output nipple size was close to 5/16 and the fuel system is 3/8. When I can I really prefer to minimize the amount of rubber line on the pressure size so I came up with an idea..

I happen to have a 3/8 rubber to 3/8 male fitting. I took the fitting and drilled it out to 5/16 and then removed the one barb on the E2000 output fitting. The fitting slid over the other and I soldered them together. I pressure tested it at 160 psi for 3 hours and all is good. So once the fitting is screwed back onto the pump I just gotta put a 3/8 union on the fitting and then right to 3/8 hardline--should work like a champ..



Time to start bending fuel line...

[crash]

So I just love a good challenge and I have always considered fuel line that looks decent one of my fun challenges--ya I know call me crazy but its still one of my passions...

But I got the fuel system from the tank to where it will go to rubber done. I had a couple spots I wasn't 100% happy with but I think it turned out decent and shouldn't have any issues...

At the tank looking forward..



Forward the tank looking back.



Frame rail at the pump area.



Above the crossmember..



Forward crossmember/fuel filter...



And where it goes to rubber over to the motor.



I got most of the new line bent up on the motor side and I made a mount to secure them and threw some paint on it--should be done tomorrow..

[crash]

So this build is now up to date--last post was from today.....

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by crash

So time to dig this out and have some real fun...

Tell me more about this, it looks like a hydraulic flaring tool??

[crash]

Originally Posted by BigSki

Tell me more about this, it looks like a hydraulic flaring tool??

Ya its badazz..

It can do 45 degree single/double flare, push lock, bubble flare in both standard and metric tube....

There is a big learning curve using it but its nice for when you are doing multiple ends....

[Duuuuuuuude]

Looks like fun!

That's a pisser about the headers. Are they going to get returned or modified?

[crash]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Looks like fun!

That's a pisser about the headers. Are they going to get returned or modified?

They are shipping us the "correct" ones..

Ya I have a bunch of these and SB's, 2 and 3rz's---love doing this stuff when I can...

[crash]

So I got the rest of the fuel lines made/installed..

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by crash

Ya its badazz..

It can do 45 degree single/double flare, push lock, bubble flare in both standard and metric tube....

There is a big learning curve using it but its nice for when you are doing multiple ends....

What's the brand name?

[chino63]

Looking good! Thanks for sharing.

[crash]

Originally Posted by BigSki

What's the brand name?

Crap--forgot to look again....

[crash]

Originally Posted by chino63

Looking good! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks

[crash]

So I threw a gallon of fuel in the tank and ran the pump. Well after a few tries and throwing 5 gallons in I kept pulling the pre-filter loose and no damn fuel..

Well this is where I full awn pulled a DUMB SHIT move. I have done a number of these pumps and damn if I didn't put the fawker in backwards--ya dumbass move,lol..

So I pulled the pump off and I had to rework both hard lines on each side of the pump and re-do both fittings on the pump. I was able to make everything fit nicely again.



Now one would think hey its going to work just fine--ha my luck was on a roll the bad way. So for those who are used to how these pumps are supposed to sound know the tone of the pump and can tell with its really working HARD--ya thats what it was doing. I checked the fuel pressure and it was like at 90psi-----mmmmmmmkay.

I had one leak at a hose clamp and one at the tank where the 5/16" hose is clamped onto the fuel sender. Ok to leak there something is odd.

So I pulled the hose off and damn--the return on the sender is fully plugged. Ok that makes sense. Pulled the sender and cleaned the crud out of the return and threw it back in. Now with 90psi and only one real leak---I call that good-------------but.................

So I run the pump again and after about 10 seconds it starts cavating/buzzing--WTF..... I pull the pre-filter off and little to no fuel... I pulled the return hose off the sender and damn---again after 10 seconds it starts buzzing and no fuel out the hose. Check the pre-filter for being plugged---nope. I pull the sender again and thats where I find the problem--damn outlet on the sender also plugged.

So I clean it out and hook everything up---bang it works like a champ and no leaks--damn it all,lol...

[crash]

So the new headers come in and I was shocked how the new style is with the flange.



Fitment is perfect.



Now that I have the headers I can continue on with the engine wiring..

[crash]

So with the headers fitted I went and got the rest of the passenger harness done up.




Test fitted the stock gear reduction starter--fits perfect and finished the trigger wire (wrapped in heat tape).




I got the cooling fan switch wiring also done and that header painted with heat paint.. So that side is all done except the main power lead to the starter.

[crash]

So now its time to finish the wiring at the back of the motor. Here is how I did the stock toy oil pressure sender.



It was pretty tight but I was able to make it fit. Had I remembered about that sender I would have ran the fuel line farther out from the motor for more room but it all fit..





The temp sender for the guage was simple. The head it tapped for 3/8 npt and the toy threads on the sender is straight cut (1.5mm pitch). So I simply put sealer on the threads and run the sender all the way down till the hex portion of the sender butts up against the head. Now ya gotta be carefull and not go to tight or you will remove the threads from the sender. This has worked for me a number of times and you simply don't have the room with the tube on the header to run any type of adapter.

[grob23]

What I wouldn't give for that kind of knowledge! I love 1:1 builds that are detailed enough to be a learning tool

GREAT job documenting this build, and GREAT job on the wiring!

[badhoopty]

nice!

frame on my sammy is an absolute train wreck, would love to have a guy like you around to fix it up.

[crash]

Originally Posted by grob23

What I wouldn't give for that kind of knowledge! I love 1:1 builds that are detailed enough to be a learning tool

GREAT job documenting this build, and GREAT job on the wiring!

Well there was a time I didn't know squat and I aint that smart so if I can pull this kinda stuff off anybody can And thanks....

Originally Posted by badhoopty

nice!

frame on my sammy is an absolute train wreck, would love to have a guy like you around to fix it up.

lol--ya I did a sammy truggy thing for a buddy a few years back and those damn frames are pretty stinkin thin,,,,,,