The money pits; Jeep JK & XK

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by 88RRC

Normally death wobble is caused by bad bushings. That's what it was on my Range Rover, panhard bushings were shot and caused the truck to death wobble at speeds higher than 20mph. If it does it check bushings first. Oh, and you just lost major cool points by using spacers, lol. The whole concept of a 2 inch thick puck of Nylon holding up the weight of the chassis gives me the heebie jeebies. It does look good even though it has a mall lift. Please tell me those things are temporary?

Ben

For now, they were $20. I hope to one day do a 2.5" coil lift and go 35's.

[BJoe]

Originally Posted by greenjk

Waste of time doing an alignment as the only thing adjustable is the toe in/out and that will be the same as before.

Originally Posted by 88RRC

Normally death wobble is caused by bad bushings. That's what it was on my Range Rover, panhard bushings were shot and caused the truck to death wobble at speeds higher than 20mph. If it does it check bushings first. Oh, and you just lost major cool points by using spacers, lol. The whole concept of a 2 inch thick puck of Nylon holding up the weight of the chassis gives me the heebie jeebies. It does look good even though it has a mall lift. Please tell me those things are temporary?

Ben

If any of the original XJ design carried over to the JK, there should be the ability to adjust caster too. Worn parts can cause cause DW, but not adjusting caster post lift or rolling the axle forward to reduce the front u-joint angles. I've noticed it on videos of Super Duties and sfa Rams too, almost all were using a puck lift kit or leveling kit.

[greenjk]

Originally Posted by BJoe

If any of the original XJ design carried over to the JK, there should be the ability to adjust caster too. Worn parts can cause cause DW, but not adjusting caster post lift or rolling the axle forward to reduce the front u-joint angles. I've noticed it on videos of Super Duties and sfa Rams too, almost all were using a puck lift kit or leveling kit.

No caster adjustment is available standard.

[Ty@Tekin]

Stock you can't change it, you either need adjustable LCA's, caster bolts or AEV brackets. I've actually read that the brackets are better and adjustable LCA's are often thought of as the only way to adjust caster. The brackets do more than adjust the castor angle.

I took it out on the highway and it was fine up to 75, so I don't feel the 2" spacers did anything negative in any way. I don't care if people hate on my budget boost, I couldn't pass it up for how cheap it was.

[BENDER]

Really digging the way the Commander looks with the lift.

As far as the JK lift goes, do what you got to do and go have fun.

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by BENDER

Really digging the way the Commander looks with the lift.

As far as the JK lift goes, do what you got to do and go have fun.

Thanks! I was really stoked to find it already lifted and it actually drives really nice! That's kind of how I saw the lift too, why not! I'm going to have to save up a lot more money to do what I want as the end goal. Maybe sometime next year and after I do all the other things I have planned first...

[JK Krawler]

Not just bushings,loose hardware,ball joints will cause DW

[Ty@Tekin]

Here's my project this week. Already tore it apart, just waiting on a new shaft.

[Ty@Tekin]

So far I'm about 25 minutes into getting the axle shaft out. Getting the bearing hub off the knuckle took the longest, the BFH came in handy.




Now I just have to wait for my new axle to show up....*twiddles thumbs*

[rottenbelly]

Make sure you take a coat hanger and pull the little plastic rings that center the axle in the tube while installing them out before installing the new one.
Will cause a axle seal leak.
( you probably know this but just making sure!)

Oh and how did you manage to do that?!

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by rottenbelly

Make sure you take a coat hanger and pull the little plastic rings that center the axle in the tube while installing them out before installing the new one.
Will cause a axle seal leak.
( you probably know this but just making sure!)

Oh and how did you manage to do that?!

Yep I took that guy out, only found one but I think that's normal. Did it the other day, got stuck pretty good but didn't expect to pop a shaft, it must have been fatigued already..

[Ty@Tekin]

New shaft is here at work, should be all back together tonight!

[Ty@Tekin]

Well, some bad news. The new axle shaft is an upgraded OEM, 25% larger than stock. Ok, no problem, just have to take the edge off the three hub bearing bolts so it clears nicely. During re-assembly, I found out the ball joints are toasted. :( I don't have the tools to do ball joints, so it got dropped off at the Dr's office this morning.

[Ty@Tekin]

Got some goodies for my birthday! Warn VR-8000 winch and a sick Pioneer 7" double din from the wifey. Got that all wired in with my 10" sub, sounds amazeballs!







Then gave them both a nice wash and detail this Sunday.

[rottenbelly]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

Well, some bad news. The new axle shaft is an upgraded OEM, 25% larger than stock. Ok, no problem, just have to take the edge off the three hub bearing bolts so it clears nicely. During re-assembly, I found out the ball joints are toasted. :( I don't have the tools to do ball joints, so it got dropped off at the Dr's office this morning.

I heard the 12 and newers used the Dana 44 u joint even in the Dana 30.
Which would be nice to keep that from hopefully happening again!!

Looking good. I've been out giving mine a bath and shining up the new race line beadlocks.

Which ball joints did you go with? My stockers went quick so I went with the synergy.

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by rottenbelly

I heard the 12 and newers used the Dana 44 u joint even in the Dana 30.
Which would be nice to keep that from hopefully happening again!!

Looking good. I've been out giving mine a bath and shining up the new race line beadlocks.

Which ball joints did you go with? My stockers went quick so I went with the synergy.

Moog HD's, should last a bit longer and have a warranty!

[BLKXJ 96]

Best way to get the hubs out is to stack up a short socket and extension on the hub bolt. Un-thread the bolt most of the way, start the jeep and crank the wheel until the extension hits the c-hub. This will press the hub out using the jeeps power steering, you may need a helper to do this but it works awesome.

[Ty@Tekin]

One of the short trails by my house is finally clear of snow, so went for a little solo trip up and back.













Also have Rough Country N2.0 shocks, 2.2 steering stabilizer, front skid plate and Smitty Bilt CRES on the way!

[Ty@Tekin]

New shocks and stabilizer showed up today, will be going on tonight.

[rottenbelly]

Nice! I've heard those new shocks are alot better than the older ones!