Tommy R's Boring Class 1 Street Truck

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by dezfan

Paint color and graphics look great.

Thanks a lot!

[chino63]

Man that's a swell looking Toyota!

Chino like.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by chino63

Man that's a swell looking Toyota!

Chino like.

Thanks, Dean!

[sally1800]

Very nice paint job.

What did you for the silver trim?

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by saydee1800

Very nice paint job.

What did you for the silver trim?

Thanks! The silver trim on the grill? That's just a paint pen. I used "Silver Chrome" paint from either Testors or Tamiya for the door handles.

[BigSki]

The blue looks amazing as does the decal set. I hope you are using metal cross members on the chassis, that z9100t is going to bend the frame! I use the same servo in my 15 lb. Willys.

[SlickRockSpider]

Well Tommy you are building another awesome rig. Nice job. I had 1979 Toy 4x4 with grafix that look the same. My was yellow () and the grafix where two shades of tan. YUCK. Yours looks amazing.



Evan (ORCRC)

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by BigSki

The blue looks amazing as does the decal set. I hope you are using metal cross members on the chassis, that z9100t is going to bend the frame! I use the same servo in my 15 lb. Willys.

Well, it'll have a front metal bumper so it should be fine. It's the same setup I've had in similar rigs so I think it'll hold up.

Originally Posted by SlickRockSpider

Well Tommy you are building another awesome rig. Nice job. I had 1979 Toy 4x4 with grafix that look the same. My was yellow () and the grafix where two shades of tan. YUCK. Yours looks amazing.

Evan (ORCRC)

Thanks, Evan!! I've always loved early Yotas and if I didn't have a Jeep, I'm 99% sure an early Toy pickup or 4Runner would be living in my garage! I just hope this one turns out as clean as I'm hoping. I've got two challenges right now:

- I want the body sitting low on the frame (no body lift) and the rear-facing spur gear locknut it hitting the front of the bed. Not a problem, but the body needs to come farther forward. I'll likely clearance the bed and cover it with a small toolbox or something.

- It's going to be tough to have a clean looking bumper with winch fairlead attached to the chassis with the front fascia of the truck extending so far. I may trim it all off, but it may take on more of a "hardcore crawler" appearance and I want this one to look mild. We'll see...

I've been waiting on the new RC Bros. leaf spring kit. I definitely want leafs in the rear and may consider them for the front, too, but the release keeps getting delayed. Soon I'll have to cut my losses and fall back to plan B: Use stock SCX10 links and scrap the plan to use leafs.

[Tommy R]

MMP all sealed up and waterproofed. I barely got it to fit back in it's original case! The brushless connectors will get some silicon. I'm going to put the rx in a balloon. I may waterproof the servo similar to the ESC, but I'll add dielectric grease to the splined output, as well.


To better explain an issue I'm having, I took a few pics. You'll see in this pic, the front axle is a little too far forward in the fender opening....just barely. So the body needs to slide forward just a bit.


Here's the issue I've got. The shaft of the tranny hits the bed, preventing the body from sliding farther forward.


I could raise the body and then it could slide forward, but I want the body slammed on the chassis so that's out.

I could slide the front axle back with shorter links, but I like the relationship between the steering servo, track bar, tie rod, etc. so I won't change that.

I could flip the tranny around, but then the spur gear would prevent my interior from going in.

So really, the only viable option is to clearance the bed a little bit so the body can slide forward ~1/4". I hate to cut into the bed at all, but I think I'll just build a small toolbox for the bed to hide the hole. Any other thoughts?

[chicostaxxs007]

i would cut a nice little circle hole.man your paint is awesome

[seabeejeep]

Ditto on the small hole. That is an awesome job on the body and paint.

[FatGremlins]

Hey Tommy,

I have an idea!

A few months back I fabbed a delrin piece for Ric's honcho that moves the tranny forward. I can do the same for you if you like to try it before you go ahead and cut the bed. If I remember correctly it moves the tranny forward 1/2" but up 1/4"

LMK

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by FatGremlins

Hey Tommy,

I have an idea!

A few months back I fabbed a delrin piece for Ric's honcho that moves the tranny forward. I can do the same for you if you like to try it before you go ahead and cut the bed. If I remember correctly it moves the tranny forward 1/2" but up 1/4"

LMK

What this dude said...make a custom cross member that is offset to the front. I had a similiar issue with my yellow hilux after I did the drop bed. I simply re drilled the holes in the cross member because it was a simple delrin block.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by FatGremlins

Hey Tommy,

I have an idea!

A few months back I fabbed a delrin piece for Ric's honcho that moves the tranny forward. I can do the same for you if you like to try it before you go ahead and cut the bed. If I remember correctly it moves the tranny forward 1/2" but up 1/4"

LMK

Originally Posted by 1BadJeepBruiser

What this dude said...make a custom cross member that is offset to the front. I had a similiar issue with my yellow hilux after I did the drop bed. I simply re drilled the holes in the cross member because it was a simple delrin block.

Yep, I have to agree with you guys. The reason I was concerned about doing this is because I didn't want driveshaft length issues like I did with the Bronco. But I've got a plan for that if it's an issue.

Wally, I appreciate the offer, but I think I'll just make an adapter plate from aluminum. Thanks, though!!

[Mr. Ed]

I like the Tool box idea What if you removed the slipper? Is there a shorter spur axle ( I'm not sure the tech name for it ) I know I've seen guys remove their slipper clutch before. Me personally I would add a full tool box to the bed.

I'm really likeing this build by the way, youv'e done a great job

[Drail]

ditch the slipper....it will get ya bout a 1/4inch looks to be bout what ya need Drail
the axial drive gear shaft #AX30197..5x43.5
and get a venom gear adaptor #VEN-4017

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by Mr. Ed

I like the Tool box idea What if you removed the slipper? Is there a shorter spur axle ( I'm not sure the tech name for it ) I know I've seen guys remove their slipper clutch before. Me personally I would add a full tool box to the bed.

I'm really likeing this build by the way, youv'e done a great job

Originally Posted by Drail

ditch the slipper....it will get ya bout a 1/4inch looks to be bout what ya need Drail
the axial drive gear shaft #AX30197..5x43.5
and get a venom gear adaptor #VEN-4017

Thanks, guys. I forgot that a non-slipper setup is shorter so I just ordered the stuff Drail recommended. Thanks!!

[Drail]

happy to help brotha. I ran into the same problume the last scaler build Drail

[STANG KILLA SS]

DRAIL beat me too it. i ran in to the same problem on my clod. the non slipper version saved me about 3/8"
i think the spur plate axial tree number is AX8009

[Tommy R]

Yeah, definitely seems to be the way to go, especially since I didn't really want to use a slipper anyway. Woo hoo! No cutting of the bed!