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Thread: Tommy R's Boring Class 1 Street Truck

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Old 03-20-2011, 11:50 AM   #1
I wanna be Dave
 
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Default Tommy R's Boring Class 1 Street Truck

Hey y'all,

I've been accumulating parts for a few weeks and with the Scale Nationals in Montana quickly approaching, I figured I'd better get jiggy with the build. This is going to be my Class 1 Street Rig and it won't be anything special or out of the ordinary at all. It'll be a Hilux on an SCX10 chassis. Yeah, I'm a ground breaker, baby!

I originally planned on going pretty far with it. Nothing too crazy, but a nice interior, divorced drivetrain, narrow/built TLT axles, and I was going to run a Felsenfest t-case which would allow me to spin one axle faster than the other. This would mean the Axial axles wouldn't be the only option to run overdrive/underdrive gear ratios. Sounded like it was going to be pretty trick, but time is running tight and as a result I decided to cancel or at least postpone some of those plans. So here's the current plan....

Axial Chassis/Drivetrain:
  • Transmission with all Robinson Racing internals
  • RCP front locker
  • Gunnar toobz
  • Axial CVDs with A1 pins (now Super 300s)
  • Vanquish knuckles
  • Axial aluminum C's
  • Axial OD/UD gears
  • RC Bros rear leaf spring kit and maybe for the front, too (depends on the release date). Otherwise, Hand Bros 3-link up front. (nope, it's linked with coilovers now)
  • RC4WD 1.55 Void wheels and Mud Thrasher tires (nope again, it's now on 1.9s)
Electronics:
  • Mamba Max Pro ESC (now running a HH BR-XL)
  • 35t Integy motor, but may go brushless (tried brushless, now a Tekin 35t Pro Handwound)
  • 3s LiPo (brand/size TBD)
  • JR Z9100T steering servo
  • Servo winch (brand TBD)
Body:
  • Drop bed kit and interior from pardonmynoob
  • Rear cab/window from Rogue
  • Clear "glass" from RC4WD
  • Custom bumpers and sliders by yours truly
  • Crawler Graphics Yota decals
  • RC4WD flares
So for now it'll be a pretty run of the mill Hilux, but I hope to make it as nice as I can. If I think it's too wide for the narrow Class 1 gates, I'll consider changing out the axles, but that will likely have to wait 'til after Nationals. Anyway, here's the only pic I've got at the moment. Yes, it's a pretty exciting one!



I'm waiting on some more suspension parts, but in the meantime I'm working on the bodywork. The bed is nearly done, but I have to fill a bunch of holes in the body. Ugh!

Last edited by Tommy R; 05-16-2012 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:59 AM   #2
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Sweet dude! I am digging the wheel and tire setup. Plans for color?
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:17 PM   #3
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Thanks, man. I've got silver graphics for it and I've always envisioned it with a deep metallic red of some sort. We'll see. Paint is unfortunately a ways off still...
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:50 PM   #4
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Very nice ! I think i need a 1.5 yota ,too
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:15 PM   #5
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should be nice!
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:15 PM   #6
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That's a great list of goodies you've got there !!

Gonna be a sweet rig for sure.


I've been tempted to do a drop bed on a few of my SCX Yota's...but the SCX chassis seems to come up a bit too high on the rear section. (compared to say...a bruiser chassis or maybe one of Generis' chassis)

Alot of guys cutout their beds to allow the shock mounts to come up thru the bedfloor....but to me...that just isn't how most of your typical "street driven" trail rigs are set up.

I think that you can get away with it by losing the rear shock mount hoops...and either making some that are spaced out a little bit so that they will go up and into your rear wheel tubs.....OR......you can in-board your rear shocks ...which also works well.



It should work great either way....since you're going leafed on the rear.



On some of my previous rigs ...that were leafed...I've always felt that it allows your shocks to have less of a role in the suspensions overall function.



I've even had some leafed rigs that basically just needed shocks for looks and maybe a little more side to side stability. I've had leafed trucks where I could remove my shocks inner springs...and the rig worked even better....than it did with sprung shocks !



Can't wait to see some more updates on it !

ArOn

Last edited by BiG_DaWgZ; 03-22-2011 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:16 AM   #7
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Lol Tommy...that was the next project on my list is a 1.55" Hilux on a third SCX10. Leaf sprung and scaling everything out as much as possible.

Do yall have a class for 1.55 scalers for CTXRCC? Unfortunately TXRCO doesn't have a street or scale class...we just run RCTT rigs both 1.9s and 2.2s.
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG_DaWgZ View Post
I've been tempted to do a drop bed on a few of my SCX Yota's...but the SCX chassis seems to come up a bit too high on the rear section. (compared to say...a bruiser chassis or maybe one of Generis' chassis)

Alot of guys cutout their beds to allow the shock mounts to come up thru the bedfloor....but to me...that just isn't how most of your typical "street driven" trail rigs are set up.

I think that you can get away with it by losing the rear shock mount hoops...and either making some that are spaced out a little bit so that they will go up and into your rear wheel tubs.....OR......you can in-board your rear shocks ...which also works well.
Thanks, Aron. The plan is to lose the stock shock mounts. I'll run some shorter shocks that will attach to the chassis near the middle. Looking from behind they'll look like this: / \

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexchen86 View Post
Lol Tommy...that was the next project on my list is a 1.55" Hilux on a third SCX10. Leaf sprung and scaling everything out as much as possible.

Do yall have a class for 1.55 scalers for CTXRCC? Unfortunately TXRCO doesn't have a street or scale class...we just run RCTT rigs both 1.9s and 2.2s.
Nothing wrong with a Hilux SCX10 if you ask me! There's a reason they're so damned popular. I won't make the next CTXRCC event, but I believe the plan is to use the new SORRCA rules.
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:00 PM   #9
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More work done on the body, but nothing picture worthy, unfortunately. I picked up some paint the other day for it. I didn't like any of the reds they had and the blue I picked up was too dark. I think I finally settled on a winner, though. Pics later...

I've got nearly a rolling chassis, but I'm at a crossroads waiting for the rear leaf spring kit from RC Bros. In the meantime I may just link it like a stock SCX10 so I can continue mounting the body and such. Anyone have recommendations for some short throw shocks for the rear? I need them to fit under the drop bed. I have some Tamiya TRF dampers, but those are WAY too pricey for a crawler!
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:28 PM   #10
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Looks awesome Tommy....
For shocks mate try some *shudder* Yeah Racing ones off ebay.

I've used them before and they actually work well (scary i know).
They come in a heap of different lengths as well.

Check here: http://toys.shop.ebay.com.au/Radio-C...&_sop=15&_sc=1
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:54 PM   #11
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I use the metal versions of these on my drop bed yota.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJK79&P=7

Same ones I used on my unimog, attached to the frame rails.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:53 AM   #12
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Thanks for the comments, guys. Looks like I sourced some shocks locally.

I've made the decision to run brushless on this truck. It's pretty new to me and I'm rather lost in making the decision on which motor to get. I'll be running a Mamba Max Pro and 3s. I'm thinking of either the Novak 18.T or the 21.5T crawler motors. Are these good choices? Any others I should consider? I want something that will generate comparable wheelspeed to a 35t brushed motor and also have a adequate torque and really good low speed control.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Thanks for the comments, guys. Looks like I sourced some shocks locally.

I've made the decision to run brushless on this truck. It's pretty new to me and I'm rather lost in making the decision on which motor to get. I'll be running a Mamba Max Pro and 3s. I'm thinking of either the Novak 18.T or the 21.5T crawler motors. Are these good choices? Any others I should consider? I want something that will generate comparable wheelspeed to a 35t brushed motor and also have a adequate torque and really good low speed control.

I was running a 21.5 on my Wreckluse and really liked how it pushed that heavy pig around. I will be running a 18.5 in the Mog too, I really like them motors.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:04 PM   #14
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You're running both Novak Crawlers? I'm leaning toward the 18.5T, but may also consider what Tekin has available.

I've got some color laid down on the body now. First coat felt a bit rough and I was debating about wet sanding it. Well, I just put a second coat on and it smoothed out a ton. I'll apply one more coat and then it might be ready for clear. Still not sure if I'll wet sand it before or after the clearcoat. I'm open to suggestions.

Here's a pic as it sits now. The cell phone did a bad job of capturing the color and metalflake, but you'll get an idea from it...
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:07 PM   #15
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nice paint job! What paint is it?
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogger View Post
nice paint job! What paint is it?
Thanks! It's Testors "Star Spangled Blue" (two coats so far) over some grey self-etching primer so it's a bit darker than it should've been.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:24 PM   #17
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Nice job on the color. Looks good.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:50 AM   #18
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Nice job on the color. Looks good.
Thanks! I applied another coat of paint last night and was about to clearcoat it when I realized I really should paint the door handles, windshield frame, etc. beforehand. So hoepfully I'll get all that done tonight....
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Old 03-31-2011, 08:07 AM   #19
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o man royal blue has always been my fav. thats just beautiful. and so different than every other lux out there. looks amazing Tommy
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Old 03-31-2011, 08:26 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
o man royal blue has always been my fav. thats just beautiful. and so different than every other lux out there. looks amazing Tommy
Thanks, Cory! You should see it now with more coats. Looks a lot nicer than the pic above, IMO. I can't wait to get some clear on it. Really hoping for a nice, deep, glossy finish.
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