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Old 06-21-2013, 09:15 PM   #1
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Default sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

A few guys and myself in our local club, TXRCRCA, are looking to add a Class 0 to our lineup. Check out Stang Killa SS's sweet JK build here.

The parameters we are tossing right now are as follows:

95% tire coverage
Stock bodies and fender openings
No WB stretch
OEM tire sizes with trail/mild tread patterns
Mild/no lifts
No (added) flares
Manditory interior
DD/factory/trail looks
No UD/OD gears
Focus on scale, fun, and simplicity

Ive always wanted to do a proper build for this old beat up D90 body and this is my chance. Ultimately I will pick up a new body but this one works perfectly to get things setup

Brief parts list:

Axles - RC4WD Cast Yota axles
Wheels - RC4WD 1.55 Landies
Tires - RC4WD 1.55 Rock Crusher
Chassis - Axial SCX10 - near perfect fit, only had to cut off about 1/4 inch from the rear
Tranny/transfer case - Axial SCX10/?


So far I have the CMS, rear 4 link truss and front 3 link w/panhard bar made and painted. I also have the suspension mounts done but the SCX10 shocks are too tall in the rear so I will either mount them angled in towards the inner/center of the chassis or go with shorter shocks. I also found that the trans is sitting way to high to fit an uncut interior so looks like I will be doing a transfer case once I can find a good deal on one I will still use the SCX10 trans but mounted up front. Plans include removing the seats in the rear and making a few items from styrene to replace them

Front with no body - need to redo the servo mounts with a slightly thicker steel.



Profile - chassis ride height.



Body height.



This pic is a little off, the sidewall lugs stick out approx. 1/16~1/8 of an inch if that. The rear tire in the pic gives a better look.


Last edited by sgtsteve; 06-21-2013 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:43 PM   #2
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90



axles are awesome. so much better than a TLT/Axial.
wheels are perfect and tire diameter looks like it tucks nicely.
panhard rod looks like it was fun to squeeze in there.

definatly digging it. you know its cool when it instantly makes ya want to grab the guys remote and wheel it
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:48 PM   #3
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

looks good so far can u take a pic of how the axles mounted up I want to do the same on my scx10 thanks
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:23 PM   #4
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Quote:
Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post


axles are awesome. so much better than a TLT/Axial.
wheels are perfect and tire diameter looks like it tucks nicely.
panhard rod looks like it was fun to squeeze in there.

definatly digging it. you know its cool when it instantly makes ya want to grab the guys remote and wheel it
I hope its that good. The panhard was actually really easy. In fact, the entire setup came together really easy and best part is it looks like all the geometry is pretty good.

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Originally Posted by kakachille View Post
looks good so far can u take a pic of how the axles mounted up I want to do the same on my scx10 thanks
Sure thing but probably not till tomorrow or Sunday. Going out of town tomorrow to support our states comp finals and persuade some of them to come to the scaler side
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:33 PM   #5
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

I'm liking this "Class 0" concept. Sparked some interest in a build for me.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:27 AM   #6
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Looks cool! Awesome idea. In all fairness, shouldn't it be factory type suspension if it is going to be closer to stock than class 1?
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:32 PM   #7
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Looks cool! Awesome idea. In all fairness, shouldn't it be factory type suspension if it is going to be closer to stock than class 1?
Thank you. Our goal for the class is keep it simple and focus less on mechanical accuracy and more on appearance. As for the D90, based on all my research the year this body represents did not use leafs. If that's what you meant.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:28 PM   #8
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Looking good Steve! Can you get pics of the links mounts ?

Last edited by eric113; 06-22-2013 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:31 PM   #9
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

I'm interested to see your front suspension/axle setup also. I picked up a set of Yota axles for my Defender a couple of weeks ago and so far can't fit a panhard under there. What's going on with your front shocks? It looks like they're at max compression, but the springs don't look compressed at all. Just curious. Excited to see how the build goes though.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:04 PM   #10
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

This is awesome! I love the idea of a class 0 rig. Nothing like wheeling a rig that in full scale would be near stock. Your front suspension is dang close to the way a 1:1 90 is. Only difference being a 1:1 runs lower radius arms and a panhard bar. So you're not too far off by using that 3-link with panhard. Looking forward to seeing more progress on this thing!!!
Ben
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:21 AM   #11
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

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Originally Posted by cbp27 View Post
I'm interested to see your front suspension/axle setup also. I picked up a set of Yota axles for my Defender a couple of weeks ago and so far can't fit a panhard under there. What's going on with your front shocks? It looks like they're at max compression, but the springs don't look compressed at all. Just curious. Excited to see how the build goes though.
The front shocks are pretty much setup right now with full droop. If I push the chassis down to simulate weight the springs to engage. I will end up putting shorter shocks all around though but to get this build posted I wanted a roller In the end the suspension travel will be very minimal, just enough to tuck the tires and as close to a stock droop look as I can get.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88RRC View Post
This is awesome! I love the idea of a class 0 rig. Nothing like wheeling a rig that in full scale would be near stock. Your front suspension is dang close to the way a 1:1 90 is. Only difference being a 1:1 runs lower radius arms and a panhard bar. So you're not too far off by using that 3-link with panhard. Looking forward to seeing more progress on this thing!!!
Ben
Thank you 88RRC

Took the front axle off this morning to get better pics of the 3-link setup. Keep in mind that my metal working skills are far from my styrene skills and those are mediocre

For the front, the side with the panhard bar is made up of 3 pieces. I could have tried making it a single piece but in the end I wanted to keep things simple and spend less time out in the 100deg heat. The 3 pieces consist of the link mount brazed to 3/16th tube which is brazed to a thin piece of sheet steel which is what mounts to the axle. For the lower links, I took a piece of slightly thicker sheet steel, cut it out to basically an L shape, then made the bends and drilled the holes. The panhard bar mount is another piece of sheet steel simply bent up and holes drilled. So basically its several sandwiched layers of sheet steel.





I did find that if you trim approx. 3/16" off the stock SCX10/AX10 steering link, that there enough threads left in the tube to securely and accurately use it on the Yota axles





The rear 4-link is basically a one-piece which was easier obviously easier to make.





I hope this helps guys!
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:53 AM   #12
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtsteve View Post
Thank you. Our goal for the class is keep it simple and focus less on mechanical accuracy and more on appearance. As for the D90, based on all my research the year this body represents did not use leafs. If that's what you meant.
You need the stock radius arms
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:36 PM   #13
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

thanks for the pics cant wait to see more on this
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:12 PM   #14
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Small update.. Ive had this R2 for years and always wanted to use it but never got around to it. Because the interior sits so low I cant use the axial tranny I planned on so a transfer case will have to go in. I mounted the R2 simply by cutting a little out of the top rail of the chassis so it could fit, then cut out a mounting plate, welded it on and there it is. I really like how low it sits and the servo still fits the way I want it. I also redid the cross-member up front to beefier steel and did a 90deg bend to close off the front of the chassis. Tomorrow I will counter-sink the holes on the mounting plate so I can get some screws to sit flush.







Now I can start planning the body mounts and figure out where to put the electronics.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:58 PM   #15
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Nice build so far man. Have you run the Rock Crushers before? I've almost talked myself into getting a set.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:19 AM   #16
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Nice build so far man. Have you run the Rock Crushers before? I've almost talked myself into getting a set.
Thank you. This will be my driest time running but as soon as I get some trail under them I will let y'all know my impressions.
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:42 AM   #17
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Any updates?
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:02 PM   #18
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Any updates?
I should have something to post this weekend. I have the rear of the body mounted and rear cargo area figured out for the most part. I also made the rear shock mounts from 4mm styrene which would be plenty strong but I might end up making it from steel, not sure.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:04 AM   #19
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

Love the idea of class 0. Very intriguing.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:18 PM   #20
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Default Re: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

I have the body mounted, with the exception of the front, and the only thing left there is to glue the magnets in place. Like my H2 build, I did a pivot mount for the rear which you can kind of see in this pic. I can better pics if anyone asks. In the second pic you see that I mounted the interior to the chassis. I did this because I wanted the battery to sit behind the front seats.





To hide the battery, and still give easy access, I made a hinged flap. Right now the flap is held in place by the seats but I will need to figure something else out because the weight of the battery, in a roll over, will easily push it open. I plan on routing the battery wires under the seat as well.





Steering servo and winch servo mounted and front body mount in place (again, just need to glue the magnets in place).



Spare tire mounted and rear bumper made from aluminum. Nothing fancy here, just simple but strong.



I need to lower the front by raising the shock mount up a bit and actually lower the rear shock mounts a bit to bring the back up. Once I get that done, the truck will be right at 50/50 droop at full weight. This should give me just the right amount of articulation.



I picked up some more paint to give this old body a fresh coat. Rear bumper will be gloss black and the white styrene will most likely be replaced by black styrene once it gets here Hopefully tomorrow I can make up a front bumper and be pretty much ready for paint. Im not sure what I will do with the rear cargo space but Im leaning towards a camping rig.
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