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Old 02-06-2016, 06:46 PM   #41
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Both doors and top glued on, letting sit and fully cure before adding styrene and filler for the mad gaps I have

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Old 02-09-2016, 02:27 PM   #42
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really like the direction you have going here. love the low stance
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Old 02-09-2016, 06:36 PM   #43
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really like the direction you have going here. love the low stance
Thanks man haha it was almost to low, I had to flip the front upper links upside down to clear the front motor mount because it sits so low

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Old 02-09-2016, 07:33 PM   #44
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Low is good on this build. I like em low
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:45 PM   #45
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Coming along nicely,
Do you plan on building a cage or roll bar for it. That cab looks like it may need a little protection.

This is how I did my two seater.


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Old 02-09-2016, 08:57 PM   #46
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Coming along nicely,
Do you plan on building a cage or roll bar for it. That cab looks like it may need a little protection.

This is how I did my two seater.
Yeah I wanna do a little cage work so help support the cab, I'm doing as much bracing as I can around the cuts with styrene before I add in the body filler. Right now it's with a friend of mine getting some sliders so I won't have any updates for a week or so.

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Old 02-09-2016, 08:59 PM   #47
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Low is good on this build. I like em low
Low COG is the way to go especially with comps

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Old 02-10-2016, 06:01 AM   #48
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Id rather have to drag a belly then worry about being to high. I much rather a low stance.
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:53 AM   #49
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Low COG is the way to go especially with comps

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It works great especially on verticals. Problem is running a tall enough tire not to hang up the axles. Best thing to do is run a shock that has a lot of droop and less up travel. Did a lot of this on 1:1. There's a good thread on cherokee forum about it. Same concepts apply

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Old 02-21-2016, 06:56 PM   #50
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Buddy just sent me a pic of the sliders he did for me for the jeep, super simple, and effective!

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Old 02-21-2016, 07:08 PM   #51
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Buddy just sent me a pic of the sliders he did for me for the jeep, super simple, and effective!

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Old 02-22-2016, 07:46 AM   #52
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If you are going to run plastic driveshaft's turn them around pit the female towards the trans if not you will end up twisting it. Its a lot stronger the other way I have been through this a bunch trust me
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:49 AM   #53
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If you are going to run plastic driveshaft's turn them around pit the female towards the trans if not you will end up twisting it. Its a lot stronger the other way I have been through this a bunch trust me
In the last 5 years I've only every broke 1 plastic drive shafts, partially my fault but I've had good luck filling one end with hot glue helps alot

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Old 02-23-2016, 09:57 PM   #54
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Got most of the electronics stuffed in, hopefully this weekend be able to get a new battery from hobby clown, and at least have a rig that drives

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Old 02-24-2016, 07:11 PM   #55
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Few pics of what I did tonight, I filled in some of the major gaps with really thin styrene, to try and minimize the amount of puddy and sanding needed, also powered up all the electronics and the drive train runs smooth as silk (just needs a new steering link to be drivable) and test fit the rear lights!

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Old 02-28-2016, 03:36 PM   #56
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Finally sprayed some paint (tamiya medium sea gray 2) brought inside to sit in front of my little space heater to dry out before a few more coats.

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Old 03-12-2016, 08:42 PM   #57
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Finally wrapped up and is an absolute blast to drive!

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Old 08-11-2016, 10:29 PM   #58
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What's the wheelbase . Looks awesome


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