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Old 11-26-2008, 09:25 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by wtcarter View Post
video please!
X2. Do you still use heat or will it just bend without heat applied?

Justin
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:35 AM   #62
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Man, that is one busy buggy. It looks friggin amazing though. Absolutely amazing work.
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:52 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by bigdodge88 View Post
X2. Do you still use heat or will it just bend without heat applied?

Justin
Not to steal any of the OP's glory but this is pretty good tech for the DIY crowd.

It is only 3/16, unless it is solid then heat really isn't necessary. That said, if you go to fast with too much force you will kink brake line because the radius is small and the die (hole saw in this case) does not support the "sides" of the tube while bending. Just try it and you'll see what works.

3/4 is a good "scale" looking radius as most automotive based bend tools are a lot bigger than that and tend to look too big and a bit hoopy (a technical term) IMHO. My pro-tools one shot hydro bender (1:1 so don't start searching the web for it) has a CLR of 7" for 1.75" tube Scale that down to 3/16 BL and it is just under 3/4 (.7). I actually use a 5/8 bolt at the bolt head (ARP) as it is a rounded transition and helps to keep the tube straight or as a reference point when a bend is forming a compound angle.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:27 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by DMC View Post
Not to steal any of the OP's glory but this is pretty good tech for the DIY crowd.

It is only 3/16, unless it is solid then heat really isn't necessary. That said, if you go to fast with too much force you will kink brake line because the radius is small and the die (hole saw in this case) does not support the "sides" of the tube while bending. Just try it and you'll see what works.

3/4 is a good "scale" looking radius as most automotive based bend tools are a lot bigger than that and tend to look too big and a bit hoopy (a technical term) IMHO. My pro-tools one shot hydro bender (1:1 so don't start searching the web for it) has a CLR of 7" for 1.75" tube Scale that down to 3/16 BL and it is just under 3/4 (.7). I actually use a 5/8 bolt at the bolt head (ARP) as it is a rounded transition and helps to keep the tube straight or as a reference point when a bend is forming a compound angle.
Thank you sir.

Justin
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:17 PM   #65
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the best looking frame on the site, and since i have been on here. keep up the good work too.
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:36 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Robbob View Post
i have center marks on the holesaw and the vicegrips, once its locked on at my mark i just use the bench top to press one end against and roll the vice grips to bend the tube, slow and not much pressure.

i bought two different types of benders before this and they work well but A: cant get small enough bends B: hard to get the bends in the right spots.

Hope that helps, if not let me know and I can video it being done.

BTW thats a 3/4 inch hole saw I used on everything.
Thanks man! Gonna try it out.
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:51 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Grizzly4x4 View Post
Man, that is one busy buggy. It looks friggin amazing though. Absolutely amazing work.
Thanks Grizzly.

The drive to do good comes from seeing builds like yours and many others around here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC View Post
Not to steal any of the OP's glory but this is pretty good tech for the DIY crowd.

It is only 3/16, unless it is solid then heat really isn't necessary. That said, if you go to fast with too much force you will kink brake line because the radius is small and the die (hole saw in this case) does not support the "sides" of the tube while bending. Just try it and you'll see what works.

3/4 is a good "scale" looking radius as most automotive based bend tools are a lot bigger than that and tend to look too big and a bit hoopy (a technical term) IMHO. My pro-tools one shot hydro bender (1:1 so don't start searching the web for it) has a CLR of 7" for 1.75" tube Scale that down to 3/16 BL and it is just under 3/4 (.7). I actually use a 5/8 bolt at the bolt head (ARP) as it is a rounded transition and helps to keep the tube straight or as a reference point when a bend is forming a compound angle.
Couldnt have said it better. No heat since its only hollow brake line, just patience and enough pressure to hold the tube.


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the best looking frame on the site, and since i have been on here. keep up the good work too.
Thank you, I appreciate that alot.
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:32 AM   #68
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did i mention that i hate you?












i get depressed everytime i look at this thread. if you EVER decide to sell it let me know
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:58 PM   #69
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amazing attention to detail One of the best scale tubers on RCC, cant wait to see more
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Old 11-27-2008, 07:58 PM   #70
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thats gonna be awesome...I would like something like that myself..
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Old 11-28-2008, 07:53 AM   #71
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I just soiled myself, in a good way...

Gosh danged cool freakin build!
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:34 PM   #72
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did i mention that i hate you?












i get depressed everytime i look at this thread. if you EVER decide to sell it let me know
LOL

Will do. I know alot of people including myself will hate me if i sell it before I run it ..... im very well known for doing exactly that lol.



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amazing attention to detail One of the best scale tubers on RCC, cant wait to see more
Thank you. I think this things giving me OCD

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thats gonna be awesome...I would like something like that myself..
I said the same thing when I started lingering around here, little patience and some bandaids and you can have anything

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I just soiled myself, in a good way...

Gosh danged cool freakin build!
you scare me lol ........ just kidding.

Glad you like it.
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:38 PM   #73
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well i got the motor almost done. i started building it the Hemi way but just wasnt happy with it, even built a matching manifold to the original.





the dist up front wasnt doing it for me when trying to match the original so i pulled it out and went the GM way.




still got a bit of work to do on the pulleys and the fuel injection/fuel pump


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Old 11-28-2008, 08:51 PM   #74
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Wow, you must not have many distractions. That is freaking awesome. PATIENCE. How much time do you have in it so far?
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:53 PM   #75
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Wow, you must not have many distractions. That is freaking awesome. PATIENCE. How much time do you have in it so far?
3 weeks, I get lucky my wife tells me to go in the basement. LOL
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Old 11-28-2008, 10:01 PM   #76
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Killer fab work!!!! You are making it look easy,, and we all know it isnt...
What are you using for heat and if you already stated Im sorry ,but I cant seem to read any of this dialog with all
these bad ass pics!!! Thanks for sharing your talent.....
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:06 AM   #77
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This is one of the best builds I've seen all year. Oh and what kind of motor is that. Is it one of the model motors you can buy from a model car kit?
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:49 AM   #78
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Very nice work..
What do you have planned for panels??
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:52 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjeepbuilder View Post
Killer fab work!!!! You are making it look easy,, and we all know it isnt...
What are you using for heat and if you already stated Im sorry ,but I cant seem to read any of this dialog with all
these bad ass pics!!! Thanks for sharing your talent.....
Thanks. Ive been using just regular Mapp gas with a regular tip. Got about 6 paper weights that gave me plenty of practice.

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This is one of the best builds I've seen all year. Oh and what kind of motor is that. Is it one of the model motors you can buy from a model car kit?
Thank you. I used the Parma Hemi kit. The intake manifold is just basic styrene and I moved the distributor in the back. I wanted the Chevy appearance to the motor, even though the Hemi valve covers kind of ruin it. Nluv's motor build is making me rethink my motor and want to build another one.

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Very nice work..
What do you have planned for panels??
Thank you. I dont want to cover up to much of the tube work but still keep it like the original, figured some lexan for a hood to show the motor off and some on the sides painted silver to look like aluminum.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:03 PM   #80
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got some styrene work done over the past week.

firewall is in


got the radiator


fuel tank and radiator built


worked on my engine belly pan


little dash work


tank and radiator mocked up




interior floor with shifter/switch in


pedals done


radiator and fuel tank painted up



and some mock ups of it all together





cant forget the juice .... little Optima should do it



dash done with gauge pots in ..... just waiting on the gauge faces to show up



more planned this week after the rest of my suspension and shock stuff comes in. got some minor things for the frame left to do plus rear bump stops then off to the sandblaster ........
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