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Thread: Unimog X-Trail on double narrowed TLTs

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Old 01-01-2009, 01:51 PM   #1
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Default Unimog X-Trail on double narrowed TLTs

Goal was to build a winter project for use in the basement with my sons.
  • Bruder (German Toy Co.) Unimog body (+fenders+dump bed)
  • X-Trail Chassis
  • Stealth Gearbox
  • Double Narrowed TLT axles
  • LRP Runner Rev.
  • CC BEC
  • Delrin Links - upper are 5/16 Delrin rod, lower are 1/4 flatstock Delrin
  • Mercedes touring rims - working on an inner hub (pics)
  • Losi Rock Bashers - the right height to get under the fenders skirts
  • Tekin 55T
  • Home brewed LEDs
This is my first scratch build and my first four link built or run.


Started with finding the Bruder toy body I wanted at the right price. Only 3 models of these are for sale in the US, others can be had in the UK and Germany. Got this dump body for $23+ship here:
http://www.eurotoyshop.com/Product.a...ctSKU=BR-02471


Stock wheelbase was a bit short for me to try my first four link on so I decided on using X-trail frame rails and stretching the body to fit.
Chassis rails are 2" apart. On the narrow side, but fit inside the fenderwalls and skirts of the Bruder.

Front shocks are mounted on the inside of the chassis rails. I know this is too far towards center, but it's so wheels could be tucked under fenders as far as possible and still steer under full articulation.
Rear shocks are outobard of frame rails for more realistic look.

Trans is mounted so motor and Pinion hang outboard of right frame rail.
I counter balanced the weight here, with a battery case outboard of the opposite (left) frame rail that holds 6pack of 2/3a cells and a 9v(LEDs).

Pinion has a small cut guard on the bottom side. The spur is guarded by the cut mesh basket that has two spare tires in it. The righthand side tire is cut and the spur spins up inside of it. Basket is mounted to the back of the cab. You can see the basket cut for the spur in this pic.

More to come (with a vid).

Last edited by sweli; 01-01-2009 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:56 PM   #2
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Default Dump Bed

I consider a screw drive and a modified servo (winch mod) to raise and lower the dump bed.
I decided to trial a sickle shaped arm on a servo. This worked, but I added a nylon patio screen door roller to the bottom of the bed and walla.......
Soldered picture wire mounted to servo arm, pulls/holds bed down.

Video Link below: (fixed now)

http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbOmM8qX3lE


Pic of bed raised:


Pic under the rear frame showing servo mount (sorry for bad angle).

Last edited by sweli; 01-01-2009 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:14 PM   #3
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Default Wheels/tires & Shortened TLTs

Wheels - something different - Mercedes Touring car wheels on a MB Unimog.
Painted Silver Fleck.
I have one wheel done, the others are in progress.
  • Flat Washer painted to match wheel
  • Drilled 3mm holes
  • 3mm studs with nuts
  • 5/16" delrin rod drilled/tapped, then shaped to look like 4wd axle end.



Losi Rock Bashers were the right height to fit under the fender skirts.
Not the most scale, but the shortest I cold find in a 1.9.


Axles are a double narrowed TLT in the front and shortened TLT in the rear with homemade axle shaft.

Front:
Cut the cases back 25% of the way into the squared area. Then dremel'd the square rib smooth.
Measured each shaft with it in place. The longer shaft continues almost all the way through the ring gear to the bell (conical extension) on the gear side of the ring gear. Here it is held by a rolled pin through the bell and shaft. Shorter shaft was cut to butt right up to the longer shaft. It is only in this bell end of the ring gear about 1/4" and roll pinned in place. Because of this short 1/4" and the fact I could not use the centering pin between the two axle halfs, the shorter shaft is a little off and causes some vibration noticed at full throttle.
Not sure these roll pins would hold up to a 1.9 comp truck or larger, but I believe they'll hold for this winter indoor rig.


Rear:
Only the plastic "Cs" were cut off the ends of the cases. This retained all the bearing mounts and was almost perfect for the straight axle setup.
3/16" steel rod (hardware special), cut to length with ends threaded 10/24. Thought about going 4mm on the thread, but this is soft steel and did not want to chance grinding away so much of the material and then running that small of die onto it.
Drilled through the ring gear as an assembly. Passed rod through, pinned with roll pin. This acts as a straight axle.
Nylon spacers hold the outer bearings in place between the hex pin and axle case.
Foil tape is used around shaft to bring OD up to 5mm size for bearings.

Last edited by sweli; 01-01-2009 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:20 PM   #4
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Default Chassis etc....pics

Rear susp. Flat Delrin stock lower 4link in pic. Holes for looks. Lower end links are attached at an angle for greater ground cleanrence.
Outboard mounted shock under fender skirt.


Front - track is less then 7" (7" outside tire to outside tire)



Under side:
Frame rails.


Ball ends on axle end of lower links are mounted angled down similar to a bent link. pics.
Clocked rear axle.



Top view with bed and cab opened.



Last edited by sweli; 01-01-2009 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:27 PM   #5
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More shots







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Old 01-01-2009, 02:33 PM   #6
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Front LEDs are the courtesy/map lights from an automotive rear view mirror. I work for the company that builds the mirrors.
They were scrapped at work, so got adapted here.

Lenses almost fit. Had to carve a slight channel around the outer ring, and they snapped right in.
Little circuit boards hold 6 leds. 2amber+2blue+2amber. On a 9v they were blinding. Inline resistor to the both, and second resistor to blues to knock them down a little more but still keep the ambers lit.
Probably redo this with 4yellows and 2ambers in the future.

Rear tail lights are Radio shack LEDs built into a little holder. Meant for 12v, run fine on 9v.

Last edited by sweli; 01-01-2009 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:54 PM   #7
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Default Basement Comp

Basement toy room course. Complete with markers and kids in PJs.
The tall string-bean in the center with snow man PJs is driving. He likes to keep score and thanks to my creative math he beats me quite often.



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Old 01-01-2009, 08:42 PM   #8
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Default Did you happen to keep track of your hours ?

That's some nice craftsmanship. I think the motor/fuel tank is cool...don't know why exactly, it just jumps out at me. Tilt forward cab is also neat.
I see what you mean about your steering linkage though...might want to look at some 1:1 jeeps with long travel suspension to help visualize a solution.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:44 PM   #9
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thats awesome, innovative work. Only thing that sticks out at me is the basket and how the tires dont fit the basket. I would skip the second tire, flatten the sides of the basket so it doesnt look like an afterthought and add a tool box or something in place of the second tire. or leave it blank.
Otherwise lots of great thinking went into this. I commend you.

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Old 01-02-2009, 11:41 AM   #10
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Default Scaler on Chassis steering servo - best linkage??

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanschmoekel View Post
I see what you mean about your steering linkage though...might want to look at some 1:1 jeeps with long travel suspension to help visualize a solution.

So I have the steering servo mounted on the chassis with a long servo arm hanging down slightly off-center.
Arm swings upward left and right.
Long "S" alum rod with ends connects end of servo horn to the furthest steering knuckle.

I know its typical to loose some steering when the axle is articulated
So when the furthest knuckle from horn end is articuated downward as in the first pic here, then the steering turns itself as shown in the first and second pic. This amounts to about 50% loss of steering in that direction when sidehilling.





Is there a solution?
Better setup?

The longer horn helped along with raising my steering EPAs.

thx for any help!
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:48 PM   #11
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Talking

Great modd on the tlt axles! super looking rig all around
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:17 PM   #12
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Default Sprung-Under full droop

I was running full droop but without springs under the shock pistons. I added some hardware store springs under the pistons now. Soft on the front (bic pen soft), and medium on the rear.

Eliminated a LOT of the torque twist that I was seeing (even on the flat)!
Steering is MUCH more responsive

thx for the tips I got!


BTW, my sons have added to our basement mini-comps that we have to carry a fragile load in the dump bed (usually Fisher-Price 'Little People' figures or furniture, or a Lego creation).
The load cannot fall out during the courses, and has to be dumped in a circle at the course end [backing is allowed during this section]. LOL

Last edited by sweli; 01-10-2009 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:11 PM   #13
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Wow! amazing build,one of the ideas i had was the working tipper bed-nicely done it crawls well too.
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:48 AM   #14
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Default Update

The old shocks I used in the build were really out of scale for this.
They were set up for full droop.

New shocks are 3racking, alum, threaded, coilovers for the MRC. Better looking scale for this.
Drawback is they snap over a ballstud on the top. Seems tight enough to hold though. They come with three different orifice plates for the inside, to adjust dampening. Downside is that one is already leaking 80wt oil.

The shocks dropped the rideheight a bit, which helped the COG. Now it is a sprung susp. versus droop. She crawls better.

Got rid of the wire basket (no one seemed to like).
  • New project box on leftside, holds up to a 7sell 2/3A split pack, or two 900mah Lipos.
  • Routed the face of the box to look like service box doors.
  • Stayed with the ABS project box for this for strength - will be opened to change batteries.
  • Cut hole for LED switch on rear (not installed yet)
  • White Styrene box fab'd on the other half.
  • Routed to look like more service panels rear and side.
  • Holds all electronics and acts as spur gear guard.
  • Bolt through Bruder wheel passes through lid and holds it down.








Old fashioned, flex pics.


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Old 06-26-2010, 09:42 PM   #15
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Default Bed and lights

The guys I trail with said the MOG needed a bed.

So, new bed made from alum channel that is used to hold strip brushes on conveyors. 1" tall with small 3/16" Tslot in the middle.
Some pressed board with router groves in it.
Light stain and clearcoat with darker stain in grooves.

Headlight is various lens pcs glued together and tail light lens' are cut and sanded down interior automotive LED lens'.
Front has always on orange marker lights, 12x16mm low beams, and 5mm dia high beams.
Rear has always on orange markers on the outside with red stop lights on the inside.
Converted the PCB board on an old servo to be a light control board for the headlights and brake lights. Y plugged it into the ESC cable from the Rx.
Headlights come on when moving forward, turn off at neutral and reverse.
Brake lights come on when in neutral, braking, or reversing. They turn off when moving forward.

crappy cellP pics don't do it justice.






Last edited by sweli; 06-26-2010 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:45 AM   #16
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that is a great looking rig man, like the new bed
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:11 AM   #17
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Default New Shoes

The little baby MOG finally got some semi-correct shoes.
Got some TangoDowns and Mud Pluggers from 'magicmarker77' - Thx

Wow these wheels and tires are skinnnny! Almost make me want to take another 1/4" out of the track on these axles.

Tires prob are not the best climbers and may need softened.
Running no foams, not vented, 4oz lead in front, 2.25oz in rear.
I'll have to see how it bounces during a climb, with no foams.

Next is some better shocks - possibly 80mm Fr, 90mm Rr, RC4WD ultimate scale shocks.



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Old 06-02-2011, 07:31 PM   #18
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Default Baby MOG gets an Exo

So my baby MOG takes a few tumbles every outing and the Bruder under body is cracking where I have screwed through it to the chassis.

I just started brazing lately. So the MOG gets a bolt on, Exo.

- Solid stainless steel rod.
- Did a some, non-traditional diagonals across the roof, with the main cross bar wrapping around the snorkel top to protect it.
- After brazing, it was easier to hit it with a sandblaster then try to buff out the heat and soot marks.

The cage:


Installed:


Top view showing the diagonals and snorkel wrap:
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:27 PM   #19
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cool rig! Its crazy you narrowed those axles twice and they still seem a little wide to that body.I have been waiting to see a video of ths for a lonfg time now....
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:33 AM   #20
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something different. I like it.
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