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Thread: MONGO - built specifically to steal exotic cars off a speeding train

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Old 12-05-2011, 03:14 PM   #81
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Cool build! I'm watching
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:49 PM   #82
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I don't know what you where thinking about doing with the duel winches used to pull the cars off the train but I was just thinking about it and I think if u used some sort of spring loaded contraption to yank the cars or just for looks instead of just bolting 2 winches on the bed just my 2 cents. Looking great though man.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:25 PM   #83
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I don't know what you where thinking about doing with the duel winches used to pull the cars off the train but I was just thinking about it and I think if u used some sort of spring loaded contraption to yank the cars or just for looks instead of just bolting 2 winches on the bed just my 2 cents. Looking great though man.
Haha yeah... I actually watched the heist scene and they pretty much yank those cars out as though they were using steam catapult/winches... and somehow the cars stop perfectly centered on the bed

Did a little bit more tube work...




And a treat for those who have pm'd me about how closely braze joints should fit before brazing- below is an example of a joint dry fitted.

I dont believe in "fillet" brazng at this scale, though super cool on bicycle frame building, cuz it just looks ridiculous( looks like the tubes are being held together with gum). So to me a joint must fit as snug as possible without subjecting the tubes to undue compression or tension which result in distortion when heat is applied. This means all mitering must be centered on the tube and angled correctly
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:08 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by prifral View Post
This means all mitering must be centered on the tube and angled correctly
Nice work!

I need to come up with something to make more consistent and centered joints. The bench grinder does a fair job as long as I hold it straight.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:45 PM   #85
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Thats some real nice tube work.
Duuuuuuuuude, I find a bench vice and chainsaw sharpening file work well.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:23 PM   #86
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Thats some real nice tube work.
Duuuuuuuuude, I find a bench vice and chainsaw sharpening file work well.
x2 on the chainsaw files

Scored some scrap high strength/heat treated aluminum from a friend in the Aerospace business. 7050-T7451 to be exact, very strong making it ideal for the LONG frame this rig requires. I received the scrap in big square pieces so it took a while to cut the 24 inch long trips - the metal band saw was very angry by the end

Machined: milling was a bit tricky since my home machine travel is just under 24inch. Well worth it though because even at this slender dimension the aluminum barely flexes

First mock up


*imagining what a 1.9 rig would look like sitting on this bed*

Last edited by prifral; 12-07-2011 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:32 PM   #87
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Love the tube work and concept for a rig. Can't wait to see it come together.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:45 PM   #88
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That thing is looking pretty damn awesome.
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:49 PM   #89
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Just found this, sorry I'm late to the party but looking forward to it.

Great work so far and I absolutely love Mongo.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:53 PM   #90
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just gotta say great idea. i had the same idea when i saw the movie. glad you are doing it. its flawless!

total props to your tube work too man. how do you do your fish mouths? i use a 3/16" chainsaw file, and do it by hand, but i couldnt get any tighter. also makes it easy to make minute length changes with the file.

your fillets are just so clean!
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:54 PM   #91
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This is insane! Your tube work is perfect Can't wait to see more of this build.
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:43 AM   #92
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looks fantastic!!!, are you going to run RC4WD TTC Baja Claws to match the 1:1, they would look fantastic!
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Old 12-08-2011, 03:50 AM   #93
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subscribed! looking bad ass man!
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:22 AM   #94
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Good lord that thing looks BIG! I dont know what else to say as everythings been said but oh well, SICK work man!
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:57 AM   #95
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You killing the game with your tube work and and build game! Loving and subscribing to this thread. BTW what axles are you using on this build?
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:44 AM   #96
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BTW what axles are you using on this build?


they look to be Wraith Axles in the pics he has posted.....
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:08 AM   #97
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You sir are a robot (in a good way), there is no way a human can do what you do.
Been looking on this site for a while, you're builds are very inspiring.
Building my knowledge and tool requirements from your builds and others.
Thanks for taking the time to post them up and good luck on the build.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:40 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by mjderstine View Post
just gotta say great idea. i had the same idea when i saw the movie. glad you are doing it. its flawless!

total props to your tube work too man. how do you do your fish mouths? i use a 3/16" chainsaw file, and do it by hand, but i couldnt get any tighter. also makes it easy to make minute length changes with the file.

your fillets are just so clean!
I actually do most of my fish mouth's using a chainsaw file as well - its the quickest method. Though I have made some elaborate setups to make fish mouthing more automated... like a mitering fixture on one of my small lathes... yet doing it by hand with a chainsaw file is still the quickest way and so I still prefer this method. The two main things is making sure the file is centered on the tube and once you're close to the proper depth check and recheck the angle of the file every few stroke from the side view.


Started machining the tranny cradle/chassis link mounts. I kind of started just winging this cuz the idea was drawn up in my head but not on paper
So the idea was to make this cradle adjustable. That is it can slide forward and backward on the frame rails because I am anticipating the wheelbase of this build to be a real hassle so I want as much adjust ability for when it comes time to "tune" for performance later on. These are the two side plates. Top view.

Bottom view.

Its meant to attach to the frame rails by capturing it in the channels and fixed in place via (6) 2.5mm bolts - per side

There are channels that fully capture the end links as well.

Next up is to do a couple more passes with an end mill to remove more material - goal is to remove at least 30% of the current plate weight. Then its onto the tranny plate to bridge the two sides. Thinking carbon fiber but seems that every time I attempt a carbon fiber tranny mount I get some gnarly electrical interference:( we'll see...
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:16 AM   #99
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Eating popcorn for sure!
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:34 PM   #100
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Carved away as much as I can for now until I figure out more on the tranny mounting situation.
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