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-   -   Clanker's SCX10 Truggy (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-scale-rigs/416160-clankers-scx10-truggy.html)

Postclanker 12-04-2012 10:37 AM

Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
after trying to comp in a class 2 with a TF2 and failing, I decided to build an SCX10. Iv'e always wanted a truggy but struggled with the tube portion. Well after some practice and trial an error I think I have something I can share.

Started with a Dingo kit and added some basic essentials:

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...4e48dd1a63.jpg

HH torquemaster 35 turn
Castle BEC
Hobico cs170
MIP shafts
Tekin FXR
aluminum chubs and Knuckles
TOPCAD shock mounts

Postclanker 12-04-2012 10:54 AM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
My good friend Lobonyc donated some parts....

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...6eee068d10.jpg

also a Wild Willy figure that I will try to incorporate in my interior...
hopefully my paint skills will do him justice...:roll:

we have a frame

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...64d221e5a9.jpg

tried to do a modular tube that I could remove if I wanted to do a flat bed with the same chassis rails.

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...rig/comp_3.jpg

we have a roller:

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...rig/comp_4.jpg

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...rig/comp_2.jpg

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...rig/comp_1.jpg

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...rig/comp_5.jpg

More to come as I get it done...I did not chop up the original rails, had some extras laying around (Thank you Meatwad)
wheel base is 12"
belly height is 3.25"
swapped out the original shocks for Traxxas Big Bores I may swap out the springs for some softer versions, or take the oil out of the shock...seems a bit stiff
Also...Robinson gears in the tranny....

Thanks for checking it out...

Perkolator 12-04-2012 11:35 AM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
that's gonna look pretty badass, good job!

you might want to think twice about how that cage is mounted to your frame with only those two mounting points and one screw each. asking for trouble IMO after having fixed my crawler so many times after decent spills.

Lobonyc 12-04-2012 11:46 AM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
AHHHHHH we finally get to see your progress.

Im curious, are the shock hoops by integy? also is the aluminum cross brace by the shock hoops part of the package or sold separately?

I would wait till your rig is almost done before switching springs or removing oil from the shocks...The rig will start getting heavier as you progress.

Almost forgot...What body is that? It looks old school and it is nice. I didn't know they made truggy shells(honcho style). I thought anythiing other than a honcho shell would need to have the back of the cab repaired.

Postclanker 12-04-2012 01:45 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Old School for sure Lobo...57 Chevy
I cut the bed off of it, will need to do some styrene work to close up the back side and leave room for the tranny.
The shock hoops are TopCad and the brace came with it..aluminum and pretty reasonably priced. I will indeed wait till I get it fully loaded to mess with the shocks.

Postclanker 12-04-2012 01:49 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Perkolator (Post 4046725)
that's gonna look pretty badass, good job!

you might want to think twice about how that cage is mounted to your frame with only those two mounting points and one screw each. asking for trouble IMO after having fixed my crawler so many times after decent spills.


Thanks Perk...I struggled with the tube attachement. After putting it all together and pushing and shoving stuff...I may revert to brazing the tube to the chasssis as originally planned. I take it you might have had issues with this ??? Educate me please..."thumbsup"

Lobonyc 12-04-2012 02:20 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Damn! It was just an illusion - Imagination -- Just An Illusion [[ Official Video ]] HD - YouTube

In looking at your picture i saw the back part of the cab curb in...so i thought it was a completed shell like the honcho where you would not need to repair. Then i read your text stating you would need styrene work and ARRRRRGHHH...i was duped! lol

Its cool. Hey, never heard of topcad. Just checked out their site. pretty cool stuff there. I like their light setups.

I had to add the video, lol im getting delirious at work!

Postclanker 12-04-2012 03:32 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Lobonyc (Post 4046963)
Damn! It was just an illusion - Imagination -- Just An Illusion [[ Official Video ]] HD - YouTube

In looking at your picture i saw the back part of the cab curb in...so i thought it was a completed shell like the honcho where you would not need to repair. Then i read your text stating you would need styrene work and ARRRRRGHHH...i was duped! lol

Its cool. Hey, never heard of topcad. Just checked out their site. pretty cool stuff there. I like their light setups.

I had to add the video, lol im getting delirious at work!


LOL...the stuff is pretty reasonable and it fits great...I have Chubs and Knucks on the wraith from them...

paleblue46 12-04-2012 03:51 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Damn nice work Post, that 57 is gonna look cool on there. The tubing looks good , are you brasing or welding?
Lobo , I had almost forgottin about that song , how the hell did you come up with that one ? must be a slow day at work......lol

Perkolator 12-04-2012 04:01 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Postclanker (Post 4046932)
Thanks Perk...I struggled with the tube attachement. After putting it all together and pushing and shoving stuff...I may revert to brazing the tube to the chasssis as originally planned. I take it you might have had issues with this ??? Educate me please..."thumbsup"

i'm no expert on this, but have lots of exp building things - unless you improve the way that cage attaches, it's gonna move/rotate because of the leverage the cage has on those tiny mounting plates. I'd guess that even something like a decent landing on its wheels will do this since the energy will transfer upward to the shocks, which will push up on the cage since they're one piece, and make the cage it rotate forward due to the cage's leverage on that mounting point. you will most likely have the same issue if you eliminate the plate and braze the tube directly to the chassis unless you triangulate that sucker "thumbsup"

currently, you're depending on ~2cm contact patch where your angle iron meets the top of the chassis. since you only have one bolt on each of these brackets, you've essentially created a hinge and it can rotate (because not long enough contact) unless you triangulate it and fix it in place "thumbsup" HOW you do this is up to you - but two simple methods that immediately come to mind might be to either:
1) replace/extend the bracket so it meets more frame, with 2 or more bolts per side, and a gusset/triangulation between the horizontal (frame bracket) and the vertical (roll bar) to beef up the connection.
2) add another frame bracket that includes a rod which triangulates back to the cage at a higher point - like possibly the 90* bend on those lower cage rails that go to the shock mounts.
3) hybrid of BOTH - extend frame bracket, add more bolts AND triangulate with another rod back to cage.

either way, the simplest example i can give is to think of an "L" shape vs a "triangle". the "L" will bend easily at the crotch with force applied to either leg, whereas the triangle has a hypotenuse connecting each leg - if you want to bend it at the crotch, the hypotenuse will either have to bend first or shear off = VERY strong comparably speaking.

hopefully your brazing will hold up better than my brazing did. i've got lots of copper brazing exp and the steel cage braze was a new one to me. after my first good impact with a rigid object i quickly discovered brazing was out and welding was the solution. sure brazing looks cleaner and makes more "scale connections", but i doubt i will ever braze something i need to be structural ever again. even with welding a cage it still breaks when you tumble down a cliff face and cringe at the thud that finally stops it :shock: for an RC, i'd like to be confident my hard work won't break on its first decent impact - because it'll eventually happen if you actually wheel your rig.

BTW - is that tube or solid rod? if it's tube, i'd be worried about those creases in your hard bends, like where they mount to that frame plate. if it IS creased like it looks in the pics, then that's most likely where it'll break first.

Postclanker 12-04-2012 05:42 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
wow...thanks for that Perkolator...all of that made perfect sense...
I suspect the easiest would be the "hybrid mod". I am Brazing not welding and it is tube. I must say though, you must beat the crap out of your rigs. I actually threw mine against the garage floor and you can see where it bent on the drivers side just behind the cab...but it didn't break. BUT...it wasn't attached to the frames yet. I guess it's back to the drawing board for now....I really appreciate the help and criticism...it's all positive. This is afterall, my first tube attempt...I'm still learning

thanks again Perk

Perkolator 12-04-2012 06:23 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
no problemo. i guess that's why we have forums on the internet where we can share. i think if you triangulate that point you will be in much better design and less likely to be damaged.

yeah, i'm not the most careful with my rig and all the time i find myself in a situation where the rig just tumbles down a failed line on essentially a cliff, and it's out of my reach to catch the fall - that's when the breakage usually happens. rig being 8.5lbs and rigid doesn't help either - oh well shit happens - at least it's not my 1:1

Postclanker 12-04-2012 07:32 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
I really like making my own stuff...my only fear is getting flamed on here...:shock:
But I guess I'm fairly thick skinned. I suspect I'd break it as well falling down a cliff :mrgreen: no matter how well you made the thing. I am going to look into modifying it tonight....thanks again for your help...

Meatwad 12-04-2012 08:32 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Either way its lookin good Greg. Maybe tying in the sliders to add in bracing could help too with some small gussets?

Lobonyc 12-04-2012 08:43 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
I must say i learned a lot from reading Perkolator's post. Very interesting stuff and tips that are useful not just in brazing.

Post, you got your work cut out for you buddy!

Hey Pale...I have that song on the rigs mp3 player, lol. Lots of funky tunes. Plus the general lee tune!

Postclanker 12-04-2012 09:22 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Meatwad (Post 4047695)
Either way its lookin good Greg. Maybe tying in the sliders to add in bracing could help too with some small gussets?

That's not a bad idea Cyrus...still trying to wrap my head around this

Meatwad 12-04-2012 09:40 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Postclanker (Post 4047790)
That's not a bad idea Cyrus...still trying to wrap my head around this

Imagine I'll be at the wheel and it'll come out tough :mrgreen:

Postclanker 12-04-2012 10:20 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
:lmao::lmao:

I think I figured it out...just need to make it now
I get to take it apart ...AGAIN !!!!

I need to get past the rush part and take my time...

paleblue46 12-05-2012 04:02 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
Well I guess we know what your doing this weekend .
Perk has some very good and valid points , that was a good read .

Better now then on your first crawl


oh on another note 70 degrees yesterday snowing today ....wtf

Postclanker 12-05-2012 07:25 PM

Re: Clanker's SCX10 Truggy
 
seems I ate up my quota of time for the week...I might get a day this weekend. Was trying to make the second comp of the series...doesn't look good at this point....

Meh...can't get stressed out over a toy truck...we'll get-er-done...eventually8)


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