King 'Jero - Rebuild

[jwindes]

Locked up-

I used the same style figures for the driver and passenger in my wraith. Your right about the articualtion below the waist causing a slight fitment problem. My solution was to 'pie cut' the knees and hips and then use a candle to heat the plastic so they would bend into the shape I needed. Everybody still has all their extremeties! I don't have any pics to load right now but I can snap a few when i get home and post them (if i can figure out how, i'm still new at this stuff) if you want. I am using Cato as my driver and Rue is my passenger...i'm not familiar with the movies so I hope I don't have mortal emenies riding together!?! Picked them up in the clearance section of the ToysRus website for only a dollar each. Woohoo!

[Desert Rc]

Nice work brotha...,gotta love the surgerythat body came out clean as well.

[Ramination]

In, I want to see how this love story ends.

[buckeyewraith]

When making cuts on body's for section ing and channeling what are you using to cut body's so precise?

[hotwheels000]

They are no longer being produced but here is a step by step tutorial. Team3sixRC Scale Seats info

Originally Posted by offroadace

Where do you get the 5-point harness?

[offroadace]

Ah. Thanks! Looks pretty easy to create.

[wilbywise]

Looking good so far man, keep it up!

[Locked Up]

Getting ready for the interior I started to put the transfer case back in and I noticed that there was only 1 screw holding it to the skid plate. Of course I ran it that way (as did Dan) at Nationals with no ill effects. But for long term durability I wanted to get a second screw into there.

That meant chopping off a good chunk of the trans to transfer shaft though.

Probably not an issue on most shafts but there is a Junfac shaft in there. It is a decent shaft but it has a machined flat portion on just the inner tip of the female end. Meaning that if you cut it off you are SOL as the male portion will have nothing to catch on.

Dan had already shortened the shaft and he got around that by putting some weld (or braze) in the end. Not perfect but it held up. My welder is buried under Jeep parts right now so opted to drill. I had thought about just drilling a hole through it but then if I ever move things around I would have zero adjustment ... and I like adjustment. So I drilled and tapped the female end and make room for 2 grub screws.



Like a glove...


Moving on the the steering, I noticed that there was only 1 servo mount attached to the chassis. I'm not sure what happened to the other one but it looks like these was a second one at some point. So went ahead and started to mount up my 7954 but the servo has braces near the ears, so I made a little cut into the one servo mount I have ... which if anyone recognizes please let me know so I can source a second one:


While I was at it, I went ahead and drilled some holes in the frame rails so that my tool can pass through and easily get to the screws.


Hope to have more this weekend.

[hotwheels000]

I don't know the brand of the mount Patrick but let me take a look and see if I have one. I know that rig used a really odd mounting style and I am not sure it even had 2 of those mounts when I removed the servo. I seem to remember some type of wrap around plating Dan made. Did it not come with something like that ?

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

I don't know the brand of the mount Patrick but let me take a look and see if I have one. I know that rig used a really odd mounting style and I am not sure it even had 2 of those mounts when I removed the servo. I seem to remember some type of wrap around plating Dan made. Did it not come with something like that ?

It does have a brace and the servo I have in there feels pretty snug but I wanted to make sure I used the second to eliminate any possible failure points.


Yes if you have one please let me know!

[Locked Up]

I spent a good part of the day today tweaking the suspension so that I can get full compression and droop without binding or hitting cross members. Changing rod ends and links ... and grinding. Notched more frame and even ground on the 3 link mount. Thinner tracbar to fit behind the servo horn and rotated axle so servo horn can pass tie rod .... etc...





It sounds simple until you really start going after the trackbar and draglink and being completely anal. I have already redesigned a CMS system twice today to remedy things that frustrated me .... we will see if that gets produced or not.


But anyway ... I have the draglink and tracbar as close as they are going to get without me totally reconfiguring the mounts .... which I will do after scale nationals. For now they are about 5 degrees off plane and 2mm off length. Not terrible, but I ordered another servo horn to see if I can get the planes closer. I guess being a 1:1 guy even bumpsteer on my RC upsets me.



I also pulled the tires, rings and wheels apart tonight to sell off the wheels and rings ... now I'm not sure what to put back on there.

The pit bulls are sitting there looking at me .... but I'm considering going to the larger proline TSLs or the TTC Baja Claws. Will probably order something next week for that.

Wheels have me stumped too. I'm thinking modified Rock Cutters and Agile rings but I guess I have time to think about it...

[Locked Up]

Remember when I said I was not going to tear it down completely before Scale nats?



Neither do I.




Why the heck would I do this to myself you ask?

There is a bit of tubing that needs to be pounded back into shape and a few spots I want to re-braze. The chassis is already mostly setup to run a servo winch but I am going to be adding a small cradle and skid for a 3 racing winch up front. So lots of brazing and I'm not keen on melting the servo, skid or transmission.

So I went out to the garage and found a left over piece of tubing from eric113 doing his links here (Thanks buddy). I tacked on the font hoop and plan on 2-3 supports coming up and out from that bottom hoop. I'll follow that up with a flat plate across the top for the winch to sit on and a plate across the front to act as a skid.



I was going to do the other supports tonight but have zero tubing left. So I'll be heading to pick that up tomorrow.

I'm also tossing around ideas on using the 3D printer to make an electronics plate but I do like waterproofed electronics so we will see what happens. Ray have to weasel a rat shack box up into the front as well.

[eric113]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

Remember when I said I was not going to tear it down completely before Scale nats?



Neither do I.




Why the heck would I do this to myself you ask?

There is a bit of tubing that needs to be pounded back into shape and a few spots I want to re-braze. The chassis is already mostly setup to run a servo winch but I am going to be adding a small cradle and skid for a 3 racing winch up front. So lots of brazing and I'm not keen on melting the servo, skid or transmission.

So I went out to the garage and found a left over piece of tubing from eric113 doing his links here (Thanks buddy). I tacked on the font hoop and plan on 2-3 supports coming up and out from that bottom hoop. I'll follow that up with a flat plate across the top for the winch to sit on and a plate across the front to act as a skid.



I was going to do the other supports tonight but have zero tubing left. So I'll be heading to pick that up tomorrow.

I'm also tossing around ideas on using the 3D printer to make an electronics plate but I do like waterproofed electronics so we will see what happens. Ray have to weasel a rat shack box up into the front as well.

I guess no problem ?

I have sheet of 22G sheet metal if you want to make a plate for the winch plate and my chop saw.

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by eric113

I guess no problem ?

I have sheet of 22G sheet metal if you want to make a plate for the winch plate and my chop saw.

Sure.
Can you bring it Thursday?

I have my chop saw now too ... I think ...

[Locked Up]

Some progress!

I reassembled the internal cage which had just broken to pieces. I love the idea of the internal cage and it's construction but brazing stuff this thin was NOT that easy. I think I was initially using to much heat but either way, back in one piece.

I also got it all painted with hammered paint but sort of fudged up the last wet layer on the front winch plate so it's not even. I'm sure once it is covered with a winch it will be forgotten so ...


Drive train reinstalled


And working on something special for this one ...

[Locked Up]

So my basic plan for this is to make a waterproof electronics box similar to my H2.

I started with some basic measurements and produced this as a rough draft:


It is a little complicated because of the spreader between the shock towers but the rough draft actually fit pretty well.


I'll be snagging some foam to replace the wheel well liners and will do the usual eyelets for power in/out of the box.

[Locked Up]

While going through print revisions of the electronics box I did some reworking of the interior ... and have more planned as well.

Up first was that I glued down the transmission hump/tunnel. Not sure what Dan had hidden in there but I'm moving everything around and want it fixed in place.



Up next was to rework the instruments and steering wheel because I am moving the drivers forward about 1". To do this I first raised the instrument panel. You can see residue and holes form old location in the first pic.



Hard to tell in the picture because her seat is leaned back more but she is now 1" forward of him at seat base.


While working on the interior, box version 2 came out. Plenty of space in there. You can also see how far her leg moved up compared to transmission form earlier pic.



With the drivers moving forward I decided to add a 3rd mount point for the drivers/interior per side (printed L brackets). Also I decided to move the dash up a hair so it would tuck in a little better. To do this I had to break off the old styrene risers, construct new ones and create a mounting system for the dash.



Here are both risers, then the dash screwed into them. Fully adjustable now, which I like.



This really moved them up to what I think is a more realistic position in the cab. may move her up just a hair more if I cannot take some of the lean out of her seat.



Wheel wells will be next.

[hotwheels000]

Nice revisions Patrick, your attention to detail is awsome. I cant wait to see the final product in person.

Are you going to replicate the "rolled over" look that it had before the rebuild ?

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Nice revisions Patrick, your attention to detail is awsome. I cant wait to see the final product in person.

Are you going to replicate the "rolled over" look that it had before the rebuild ?

Thanks.

I hope not but ask me again after Utah!


That is the good thing about having 2 bodies (3 if you count the orange one). One to destroy, one for posing. Actually the cage is probably going to determine the shape more than the bodies. I may bulk it up a hair.

Then again, that was a really hard drop that should have never happened.
I think if I keep the drops to 40 scale feet it will be OK as is.

[eric113]

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Nice revisions Patrick, your attention to detail is awsome. I cant wait to see the final product in person.

Are you going to replicate the "rolled over" look that it had before the rebuild ?

$10 challenge ?