Mallcrawlers FJ build thread

[mallcrawler24]

Hey guys pretty new to the forum and the rc world. however im not new to the 1:1 off roading scene. I wheel my daily driver 2002 4runner.

So i started my journey into rc about 2 months ago when i purchased a axial scx10 honcho RTR. I like this platform right out of the box and enjoyed it. I always wanted to stay true to a toyota so i had planned on making the honcho into a true tacoma truggy. plans then changed when i read @ramnations build thread on his FJ cruiser this got me hooked. i figured since i knew i couldn't have a 3rd gen 4runner. the Fj was the second best option for me.

so far the Honcho had the following modifications.
metal steering links
level 3 rc 4 link truss front and rear.
metal upper and lower links from R2J.
100 mm Losi comp shocks leaned into the alpha angle.

some pics












here is the new to me body i got off of ebay.









The first modification for this FJ is the tire carrier from the Honcho placed on the rear hatch.





The dimensions of the body is:
16" long
6 3/4 " wide
5" tall

My paint scheme of the FJ is going to be very similar to this 1:1 FJ


thanks for looking more updates will be coming soon!

[xigtc]

Subscribed look forward to updates.


Thomas

[Ramination]

Good to see another FJ coming to life!

I will be watching to see how you tackle the wheelbase, bumpers, etc.

Good luck!

[elsewhere]

Lol, these thing are catching like a damned rash!
Guess my build will be just another in the line haha!

I'll be watchin this too!

[ROWDY RACING]

Happy to see another Richmond VA crawler.

[mallcrawler24]

a few small updates. put the body on the frame to see where i want to mount it. here is some pictures. still looking for the best way to mount the body. might use the front post and something else in the rear. any suggestions would be appreciated.











I love how the rear tire looks on the back.

few things on order so far is:
traxxas revo rod ends to make my own links
axial 8 hole beadlocks.
most likely pitbull 1.9 tires.
and proline shocks. the losi comp shocks are going to be too big i think.
also want to run 3s lipo. but can i on the stock rtr setup?

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

Happy to see another Richmond VA crawler.

hope to be doing some testing at bell isle next week. maybe you can help me make some links? or solve my body mounting issue.

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by mallcrawler24

hope to be doing some testing at bell isle next week. maybe you can help me make some links? or solve my body mounting issue.

Keep the camo paint!

Your going to have to shorten the wheelbase a lot like ramination said, you may want to check his and some other builds using that body for help.

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

Keep the camo paint!

Your going to have to shorten the wheelbase a lot like ramination said, you may want to check his and some other builds using that body for help.

Im looking to take it down to around 10" for right now. have the revo rod ends ordered. need to get the rod and aluminum sleeve.

i like the camo, but i prefer to go with the black and tan look its more scale lol

[Ramination]

Originally Posted by mallcrawler24

a few small updates. put the body on the frame to see where i want to mount it. here is some pictures. still looking for the best way to mount the body. might use the front post and something else in the rear. any suggestions would be appreciated.

also want to run 3s lipo. but can i on the stock rtr setup?

Whatever you do, do not ruin this by sticking body posts through the body.

Mount that damn thing with velcro or magnets. I suggest making it either hinge in the front (or back) and use a single screw or clip or velcro to hold it together on the other end. Alternatively, use some boat sides or sliders to attach it. I'd recommend not using any screws to hold the body on unless you can change the battery or turn it on/off without removing the body.

I mounted mine on the sides, and for a while had it hinged in the back also. I have a little bolt that sticks out of a hole on the edge of my "slider tray" things, and this bolt goes into a hole that is hidden behind the slider on the body. It is a compression fitting, I do not need any tools to remove the body. The body squeezes the sliders, the bolt keeps it centered front to back and keeps the body from falling off, and then the bumpers support the body weight. I can get you a pic tonight if you need.

And yes, if you add a BEC you can run 3s on the RTR axial ESC. Search this forum, there is an overwhelming amount of info covering how and why.


Just a heads up, when you shorten your wheelbase to 10" to match the body you are *probably* going to have issues with driveshaft angles being too steep causing the drivetrain to not rotate smoothly. That is half the reason I went chop chop on the rear of mine.

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by Ramination

Whatever you do, do not ruin this by sticking body posts through the body.

Mount that damn thing with velcro or magnets. I suggest making it either hinge in the front (or back) and use a single screw or clip or velcro to hold it together on the other end. Alternatively, use some boat sides or sliders to attach it. I'd recommend not using any screws to hold the body on unless you can change the battery or turn it on/off without removing the body.

I mounted mine on the sides, and for a while had it hinged in the back also. I have a little bolt that sticks out of a hole on the edge of my "slider tray" things, and this bolt goes into a hole that is hidden behind the slider on the body. It is a compression fitting, I do not need any tools to remove the body. The body squeezes the sliders, the bolt keeps it centered front to back and keeps the body from falling off, and then the bumpers support the body weight. I can get you a pic tonight if you need.

And yes, if you add a BEC you can run 3s on the RTR axial ESC. Search this forum, there is an overwhelming amount of info covering how and why.


Just a heads up, when you shorten your wheelbase to 10" to match the body you are *probably* going to have issues with driveshaft angles being too steep causing the drivetrain to not rotate smoothly. That is half the reason I went chop chop on the rear of mine.

yes pictures will be great. as for shortening the wheel base i think im going to start with a 11 inch wheel base to start. i took your original wheel base and current wheelbase and looked at them compared to our different bodies. so im going to shoot for an 11 inch wheel base to start.
my question is how should i go about this. if im looking to shorten my current wheelbase by 1 5/8 inches. do i distribute it evenly or from what i read the lowers are all the same and the uppers are 2 different sizes front and rear.
suggestions?

[elsewhere]

Make the front lowers a hair longer.. Reverse of what most people do but it
works great.
And as for link material I suggest u use steel tubing as it slides better than aluminum.

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by elsewhere

Make the front lowers a hair longer.. Reverse of what most people do but it
works great.
And as for link material I suggest u use steel tubing as it slides better than aluminum.

ok do you have any suggestions on what my links should be? my current wheel base is 12 5/8 and im looking to bring it to 11. a difference of 1 5/8 where should i take the 1 5/8 inches from?

[elsewhere]

I'd take it from both ends but leave the front ones half inch longer.
If u move your rear shock towers forward (rear hole to front hole)
and drill a new hole for the front of them to mount, your shocks will be
perfect.

My wb on my fj is exactly 11. I can get u lengths tonite after work.

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by elsewhere

My wb on my fj is exactly 11. I can get u lengths tonite after work.

yeah that would be great.

[elsewhere]

Measured up eye to eye
Front is 4 5/8"
Rear is 3 7/8"




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by elsewhere

Measured up eye to eye
Front is 4 5/8"
Rear is 3 7/8"




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

is that the same for uppers and lowers?

[elsewhere]

No, I forgot to mention I'm using the shorter male bone mips from I believe a revo..
The upper links for the front I'm using the stock y link and 4 link the rear to your own
comfortable pinion angle...
To get it slammed I also put shorter rod ends on the shocks (flat belly)

[elsewhere]

Here is a link to the mip revo short male bone for MIP shafts at tcscrawlers
MIP Male Bone Spline Short Revo #08139 - The Crawlers Store LLC

[mallcrawler24]

Originally Posted by elsewhere

No, I forgot to mention I'm using the shorter male bone mips from I believe a revo..
The upper links for the front I'm using the stock y link and 4 link the rear to your own
comfortable pinion angle...
To get it slammed I also put shorter rod ends on the shocks (flat belly)

what should the pinion angle look like?