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Old 11-04-2006, 09:05 PM   #1
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Default Project True scale test rig

I've been wanting to work on this for a long time and reciently got the motovation to start.

The goal is to make an RC car that is as scale as possible, in every aspect, with a super secret body.

This truck will kind of be a rolling test platform for another 2 trucks i will eventually build so to start I'm going to use a Mountaineer chassis I bought new 10 years ago



For the hard chassis fans out there, i'm not going to cut or weld to the frame in any wayI want to preserve it.

To keep the scale appearence i'm sticking with the original axles



One of my pet peeves is the difference in axle width but with the body that's going on it, it won't be that notacible.

I was originally going to use 2.2 tires but after Measuring my 1/18 Nylint tires I realised they were exactly 1/10 scale 35's so to bring the whole shabang down to a respectable level I placed the axles above the springs



Yes the pumkin is on the wrong side but you'll see why later


The tires are just sitting on the bare axles but the proportions are what i was shooting for.

More progress to come

Last edited by Metal Masher; 08-04-2007 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:11 PM   #2
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that looks really good. I like the nylint tires on there, real scale looking. I will be watching this one for sure!
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:39 PM   #3
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The tires may be 35's in 1/10th scale, but the bruiser/mountaineer frame and axles are actually larger than 1/10th scale. Not exactly sure how much but I know 1bjb knows. Where is he at?

Good luck with the build! I with I had a set of those axles
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:43 PM   #4
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Looks good. Stock toy diffs are driver drop aren't they? If you were super anal retentive you could cut the rear axle and shorten it, but different backspacing on the rear rims would probably do the same thing.
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:48 PM   #5
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Toys are pass-drop, wranglers are driver. Hmm...
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:48 PM   #6
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nice frame can't wait for your neat paint job on the "secret body"

Last edited by ThinkTank; 11-04-2006 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 11-05-2006, 01:02 AM   #7
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Huh, "Secret body", sounds interesting. It will be nice to see a build that is scale in every aspect, you don't see that much. Should be sweet.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nluvwithxlr8ing
The tires may be 35's in 1/10th scale, but the bruiser/mountaineer frame and axles are actually larger than 1/10th scale. Not exactly sure how much but I know 1bjb knows. Where is he at?

Good luck with the build! I with I had a set of those axles
Yes that's true and why i'm going with a fullsize truck body like the F-150 So it'll all work out in the end.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmuddy
Looks good. Stock toy diffs are driver drop aren't they? If you were super anal retentive you could cut the rear axle and shorten it, but different backspacing on the rear rims would probably do the same thing.
The axle position is needed for the tranny setup i'm doing, i'm not conserned which side rught now.

I've already thought of that and the housing would not need modifing, just the outer bearing carrier and the axle shaft itself. I've already got something it the works for that. I have a good solution for running 2.2's and using backspacing that i'll explain later.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmuddy
Looks good. Stock toy diffs are driver drop aren't they? If you were super anal retentive you could cut the rear axle and shorten it, but different backspacing on the rear rims would probably do the same thing.
The axle position is needed for the tranny setup i'm doing, i'm not conserned which side right now.

I've already thought of that and the housing would not need modifing, just the outer bearing carrier and the axle shaft itself. I've already got something it the works for that. I have a good solution for running 2.2's and using backspacing that i'll explain later.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:14 AM   #11
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oops! :?
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:02 AM   #12
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Looks like a great start, gotta love those Bruiser chassis. I just have a question about the nylint tires you have there, are both the outer and inner diameter for the wheel openings the same? I always wondered because of the big dish in the back of the wheel.
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Old 11-05-2006, 12:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTERED IMAGE
Looks like a great start, gotta love those Bruiser chassis. I just have a question about the nylint tires you have there, are both the outer and inner diameter for the wheel openings the same? I always wondered because of the big dish in the back of the wheel.
Nope the openings are how they look, ...bigger opening in the back, smaller opening in the front.
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Old 11-05-2006, 01:02 PM   #14
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nice
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker
Nope the openings are how they look, ...bigger opening in the back, smaller opening in the front.
Yep that's right, 1.5" in the front, 2" on the back. I'm glad because I need the room for the hubs.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:39 PM   #16
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Well I took the chassis over to my garage to start on the cage.

Since I didn't want to damage the frame I decided to incorporate the skid plate into a means to support the rest of the cage.

I started by plazing some rough pieces. Man I love plasma cutters!



The main plate is pretty heavy at .120 thick and the sides are .060.

Once they were cleaned and shaped to fit the chassis...



They were welded...



then the welds were ground smooth and tested once again for fit.

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Old 11-05-2006, 08:42 PM   #17
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You can see how the sides wrap around the frame to give the sliders something to attach to



Seems to work pretty good



Well time to hit the sack.

More to come later.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:52 PM   #18
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Must be nice to have all that equipment man,The skid looks awesome.
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Old 11-05-2006, 09:08 PM   #19
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are you in hanover pa???? if you are we need to get together and crawl
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Old 11-05-2006, 09:13 PM   #20
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they way you built that skid plate is a work of beauty! This is going to be an awesome rig. I cant wait to see the final product.
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