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Thread: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

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Old 03-10-2015, 06:01 PM   #1
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Default 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Once again I felt like building something and tore apart the comp crawler.

RC4WD
1.9 mud slingers
Bruiser upgrade chassis
Leaf springs
u-bolt mount kit
transfer case

Losi
Axles
Comp Crawler transmission

Novak
18.5 brushless crawler motor and esc
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:22 PM   #2
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

I am using one of the proline monster truck bodies that I cannibalized from the E-maxx.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:20 PM   #3
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Mounted the front axle to the springs with a RC4WD U-bolt kit.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:26 PM   #4
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Drilled through the lockouts and tapped to mount the rear axle to the springs.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:33 PM   #5
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Swapped the middle and rear cross members to raise the transfer case. It also leveled out the battery tray.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:35 PM   #6
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Running HD worms front and rear. To over drive the front. The input and output drive shafts were swapped. I read about this one in the trail finder 2 section. I think it was a thread by Dready.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:42 PM   #7
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Used the comp crawler trans. I went through this thing cleaning and greasing with not much improvement in the drag of the shift forks to the drive cogs. One of the shift forks was not staying 90 to the shaft. Used a center punch to stake it into position. This helped but was not satisfactory. I dug some of my mini T pink springs out and cut them to fit in place of the stock ones. This helped more, but still not happy. Found some scraps of Teflon to make some rings to go between the shift forks and the cogs. This was the ticket. Nice and smooth. Used pat of a stock frame and bolted it on upside down for the trans. mount.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:44 PM   #8
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Made some front and rear bumpers out of steel rod to try and get the weight up so the springs will work.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:46 PM   #9
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This think would still not articulate well. Moved the rear shackles to an angle. This worked so well that I drilled some holes for the front.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:49 PM   #10
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

I tried it with mud slingers and trepadors. Not sure which to use. I think this would be the deciding factor between class 1 and 2.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:52 PM   #11
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Something seems to be missing here. I have a plan and waiting on the mail carrier.
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:00 PM   #12
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

The revo diff. arrived that is going to be used for a 90 degree gear box. I am going to lock it by dumping some epoxy in it. Also going to have to move the trans back. I want the PTO winch to fit inside the body.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:15 AM   #13
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Going for a drop bed.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:16 AM   #14
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Working tailgate.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:18 AM   #15
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Flip top for easy access.
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:53 AM   #16
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Made a break through with the winch. I was concerned about how to lock the diff. and attach it to a spool. Looking through my extensive pile of bully parts. I found that the rear axle is the same diameter as the revo output shafts. I'll stick it through the diff and pin it. Then slide the bearing over the pin to retain it. I have used this method in my bully comp crawler threads. It has not failed yet when driving two wheels. I know it will work for a winch.
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:22 PM   #17
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Old 03-25-2015, 01:19 PM   #18
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Got some work done on the winch. Drilled through the shaft and put a pin through it on the bearing inner race surface. Slid the bearing over it to retain it.
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:22 PM   #19
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

Good steering angles. What's done to the axles?
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:34 AM   #20
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Default re: 1956 Ford F-100 PTO Winch

The ends of the axles are shaved off for collars to have clockable c-hubs. Everything else is stock. The comp crawler would steer pretty good out of the box. Just needed clocked a little. I tried the Dlux versions and broke them. Made a couple out of aluminum.
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