Johnnyluv's Gelände II D90 "future" build [placeholder]

[johnnyluv]

This is somewhat of a placeholder for my future Gelände II D90 build, which will also be my first experience with an RC4WD kit. I've desired one for over a year, at least, but only recently did I finally get to order one, and I'm hoping to get started next month.

As I'm making preparations, I've become concerned about the stock mounting screws. I've read in the comprehensive guide, and also from other posts, that they tend to be weak, and will strip easily. Has anyone found a suitable hardware/screw kit to replace the stock screws with? Is it just a few that would need replacement?

I checked Team KNK's site, but they have nothing specific for the Gelande 2, unless I overlooked it. I did, however, find an RC Screwz kit, for about $32, but that seems costly, considering how much I already spent on the kit.

I'd appreciate any input.

[johnnyluv]

Okay, is this a case of differentials being improperly swapped, flipped, or reversed at the factory? I assembled the kit as instructed, and my axles are spinning in opposite directions. Over a month ago, an employee from my LHS indicated this same thing happened with the kit he built for his coworker, and I had forgotten about it, or I might have 2nd checked it. Thing is, it's not something that would be evident until it's all been connected to the transmission.

[Alpha Male]

The stock differential gears don't have a direction, and are the same front and rear. Is it possible that you attached the front driveshaft to the input side of the transfer case that should come from the transmission, rather than the output?

If not, then you may have two rear axles or two front axles, which are opposite.

Just guessing...

[new2rocks]

Re the axle, one other possibility is that you installed the rear axle upside down. Re the screws, the RC Screwz kit is good, but you can make do without so long as you have a good set of drivers and are careful. I recently picked up the RC4WD drivers, and they're very good. MIP and Hudy drivers are also supposed to be excellent. Integy Ti Nitrides aren't as good. So if you're not up for a $30 screw kit (can't blame you), invest in good drivers and take your time. You should be fine.

[new2rocks]

Oh...and congrats on your D90. That was my first hardbody kit, and it has totally altered my course. Before that, I thought an SCX-10 was scale. Little did I know, lol...

[Rodamis]

I believe I know what happened here . You can assemble either of the axles backwards meaning if you were to take off the rear axle and flip the pinion carrier to the rear of the axle and swap all the link mounts the other way . That should fix the problem . Your rear axle is not upside down its just backwards . Here is an easy way to tell make sure the bump on the front is on the passenger side and the rear is on the driver side . If they are on the same side they will spin opposite

[Rodamis]

Oh and you can't accidentally install the rear axle upside down because there is only one flat spot for the lower link mounts to work properly. But like I said you can reverse them

[johnnyluv]

Originally Posted by Alpha Male

The stock differential gears don't have a direction, and are the same front and rear. Is it possible that you attached the front driveshaft to the input side of the transfer case that should come from the transmission, rather than the output?

If not, then you may have two rear axles or two front axles, which are opposite.

Just guessing...

The shafts are hooked up the only way they can be, because of that straight transmission coupler shaft, which will only connect to the input.

Originally Posted by new2rocks

Re the axle, one other possibility is that you installed the rear axle upside down. Re the screws, the RC Screwz kit is good, but you can make do without so long as you have a good set of drivers and are careful. I recently picked up the RC4WD drivers, and they're very good. MIP and Hudy drivers are also supposed to be excellent. Integy Ti Nitrides aren't as good. So if you're not up for a $30 screw kit (can't blame you), invest in good drivers and take your time. You should be fine.

Oh...and congrats on your D90. That was my first hardbody kit, and it has totally altered my course. Before that, I thought an SCX-10 was scale. Little did I know, lol...

Thanks, man. It really is on quite a different level than the SCX10. I'm looking forward to getting it completed and out on the trails, and am especially hoping it'll make it up the mountain trails I like to tread.

I found a screw kit for it, and will post about it in the near future.

Re Re the axle, I actually mistakenly installed the rear axle upside down, the first time around, but as Rodamis stated, the links won't hook up properly. I think Rodamis might have the answer, but I need clarification.

Originally Posted by Rodamis

I believe I know what happened here . You can assemble either of the axles backwards meaning if you were to take off the rear axle and flip the pinion carrier to the rear of the axle and swap all the link mounts the other way . That should fix the problem . Your rear axle is not upside down its just backwards . Here is an easy way to tell make sure the bump on the front is on the passenger side and the rear is on the driver side . If they are on the same side they will spin opposite

Oh and you can't accidentally install the rear axle upside down because there is only one flat spot for the lower link mounts to work properly. But like I said you can reverse them

Okay, Mr. Rodamis. Here's a picture of the rear axle. When you say "bump", do you mean that cut-out on the pumpkin that houses the diff gear? Judging by the pic, and your explanation, then it must be on the wrong side, correct? If so, then I just flip the axle around and reverse the pinion mount and link mounts? That must be what the guy at my LHS tried explaining, many moons ago. That won't be too bad.

[mactech]

Look at the differential cover

[johnnyluv]

Originally Posted by mactech

Look at the differential cover

I guess that's it, then! Thanks. Looks like I was right about QC letting this one get away.

[johnnyluv]

Calling all Gelände II experts! I could really use some help, here. I'm so close to being done with this build, but I've got binding in my steering, whenever I go full lock, either left or right. I haven't taken this rig outside, but have only driven it around my home. I don't think it was doing it when I first ran it, or else it might have, and I just didn't notice it, until now.

From the video below, can anyone help me pinpoint the root cause? I've looked it over, and it all seems to measure up, but it's obviously not.

[Hittman]

That would be the dog bone wobble. With the throw you have, the slot in the cup is catching the shaft. That's what the movement is. Either adjust your epa's till it is gone (less steering) or you can buy the yota II Cvd's from rc4wd.

The Cvd's are a nice upgrade. Doesn't increase steering drastically, but much smoother.

[new2rocks]

^^ x2. You'll never get as much steering from these as you would XR-modded SCX-10 axles, but it's pretty good and much smoother with the XVDs than with the stock dog bones.

[johnnyluv]

Originally Posted by Hittman

That would be the dog bone wobble. With the throw you have, the slot in the cup is catching the shaft. That's what the movement is. Either adjust your epa's till it is gone (less steering) or you can buy the yota II Cvd's from rc4wd.

The Cvd's are a nice upgrade. Doesn't increase steering drastically, but much smoother.

Well, that makes me feel a little better, I guess. I figured adjusting end points might be in the formula. I actually have some XVD's, but I was hoping to run the stocks for awhile. Aside from slightly lower performance, are the stockers at least durable to some extent? I guess I can wheel it around locally, running stock, then upgrade with the XVD's, before I go on a long trail.

Originally Posted by new2rocks

^^ x2. You'll never get as much steering from these as you would XR-modded SCX-10 axles, but it's pretty good and much smoother with the XVDs than with the stock dog bones.

Duly noted! Thanks for the responses.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[Hittman]

Originally Posted by johnnyluv

Well, that makes me feel a little better, I guess. I figured adjusting end points might be in the formula. I actually have some XVD's, but I was hoping to run the stocks for awhile. Aside from slightly lower performance, are the stockers at least durable to some extent? I guess I can wheel it around locally, running stock, then upgrade with the XVD's, before I go on a long trail.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

For me, they didn't last long. But I am sure they work fine for others.

[johnnyluv]

Alright, looking for a little more advice. Is it worth putting several more coats of sandable primer, to cover up these areas where it rubbed off? I'm wondering if I need a slightly better primer, because it rubbed off so much in those areas. Most of it stayed on, though, and it looks pretty consistent, up close. I'm excited to get the base coat on, but if it's best to recover it with primer, I'll do that, because I don't want to have to redo it later.

[Scotski]

The stock dogbone/cup front axles are horrible for turn radius. I shimmed them every way I could to no avail. Sadly, I have not been able to get my hands on the Yota II XVDs. As for the SCX10 axles... They get a bit more turn radius stock, but having to limit epa to 50% is still weak. :(

[Scotski]

One more tip...The front differential has a hard angle on the driveshaft from the transfer case. I flipped tha exle around and countersunk the dif cover holes on the axle since the cover was only made to fit on one side. It almost made the driveshaft dead straight inline. Check out my pics of my build. Maybe I should post the before and after when the stock configuration had the drive shaft binding at full extension and rubbing the transmission when the suspension was at a full depression.

[johnnyluv]

Originally Posted by Scotski

One more tip...The front differential has a hard angle on the driveshaft from the transfer case. I flipped tha exle around and countersunk the dif cover holes on the axle since the cover was only made to fit on one side. It almost made the driveshaft dead straight inline. Check out my pics of my build. Maybe I should post the before and after when the stock configuration had the drive shaft binding at full extension and rubbing the transmission when the suspension was at a full depression.

I didn't have that hard driveshaft angle issue that you mentioned. My biggest problem was with my rear axle having been improperly assembled at the factory, and now with the poor turning radius.

Well, here's my progress, so far. This was taken yesterday, which means the paint on the roof should be fully cured, and that I'll be able to mask it off and begin painting the rest of the body. Unfortunately, yesterday was the last warm, summer'ish day, for the Pacific Northwest, as the forecast is showing highs in the low-mid 60's, which won't be so great for painting.

[johnnyluv]

This is my current progress: The roof is painted white and masked off, and there are 2 - 3 layers of base coat on the lower body. I'm debating on whether I want to put much effort into wet sanding the base coat, and/or putting any further coats on, before the clear coat. If I get it too nice looking, I might not want to take it up the mountain trails, and up in the mountains is where I envision taking this thing. I was hoping to take it on my little family camping trip, next week, but don't think I'll get it done in time.