Suzuki tube buggy

[Mnster]

Made it to the garage via wheelchair used my press to push some bends in it welded it up.

[Mnster]

Starting to mock the layout of the drive train and figure out link locations.



The large drivetrain in a small truck will present some space challenges. I do enjoy the challenge though and so far everything is seeming to fit nice.

[Mnster]

Divorced the Transmission. Was pretty easy almost like Axial had the idea in mind. I machined all the transfer case mounts off to save space and make it look pretty. Using a left over single speed gear shaft I cut a new shaft for the transfer case.


Using my drill press and Dremel I cut a new slot for the E-clip

The transfer case mount will cover the clip and keep the shaft in place.



Still mocking up locations likely to shorten the shafts to give the everything a better fit.

[Mnster]

Originally Posted by Guambom

...SSD wheels as well...?!!

Thanks! Yep 1.9 SSD D-holes wrapped with 1.7 Rc4wd Boggers.

[Mnster]

Fabricated and brazed in mounts for the Transmission and Transfer case.


Held in with 4 screws on the bottom and one on the top should be well enough. Bit of a odd angle but on mock up this seemed to work the best in regards to clearances.


Flux makes everything sort of ugly once I get well enough to head back to work I'll sand blast everything and it will look a little better.


Up next is link mounts i think...

[Bananaclip]

Metal work is looking really good. The t-case mount reminds me of the front range offering for 1.1 toyotas!

[Mnster]

Brazed in some lower link mounts.


Admittedly I screwed a up a bit with the measurements and placed it a bit to far forward. Debating if I should melt them off and move it further back. Haven't run a 40/60 link setup in a long time. Just with the links being rather short up front it may not handle like I intended. I guess have to decide what to do tonight. May just leave it to have something different in the shop.

[DaddyJeep]

You know you want to fix the location of the link mounts. Don't compromise. I cut apart and rewelded the frame on mine twice so far and I think I am going to one more time to get the rear bumper height exactly where I want it.

[Mnster]

Originally Posted by DaddyJeep

You know you want to fix the location of the link mounts. Don't compromise. I cut apart and rewelded the frame on mine twice so far and I think I am going to one more time to get the rear bumper height exactly where I want it.

Thanks heh melted them off and recentered the mounts. Way better.

[Mnster]

Some of the links are in.


Close up of the 3 link front end, it was chosen over a 4 link to allow fitment of the transmission.


I bolted the rear suspension up but built in no anti squat. I pictured the rear end diving on acceleration.


So I made brackets to drop the upper links down to get some anti squat going so the tires are either neutral or pushed into the ground on acceleration. Out of brazing rod so i couldn't weld it in place just yet.


Much more to go, need to finish mounting the front links and start work on the shock mounts.

[klampykixx]

This build interests me

Why not 60/40 link geometry vs 50/50

[Mnster]

Originally Posted by klampykixx

This build interests me

Why not 60/40 link geometry vs 50/50

Thanks

* With a 10 inch wheelbase the front links were about 3" Long. This caused the front links to be at a steep downward angle thus loosing some control over the axle and providing a stiff ride.

* Would've had a small amount of travel in the front and a larger amount of travel in the back. This would've caused the truck to have a odd balance when flexing and seem less predictable. The front would run out of flex and cause the vehicle to sharply lean, while the rear takes up the slack.

* Odd break over, when crossing a log or rock it's likely it would snag the long flat rear links before the tires.

* Just looks wrong, doesn't look symmetrical. Like the chassis design was a after thought.

[DaddyJeep]

Originally Posted by Mnster

Thanks

* With a 10 inch wheelbase the front links were about 3" Long. This caused the front links to be at a steep downward angle thus loosing some control over the axle and providing a stiff ride.

* Would've had a small amount of travel in the front and a larger amount of travel in the back. This would've caused the truck to have a odd balance when flexing and seem less predictable. The front would run out of flex and cause the vehicle to sharply lean, while the rear takes up the slack.

* Odd break over, when crossing a log or rock it's likely it would snag the long flat rear links before the tires.

* Just looks wrong, doesn't look symmetrical. Like the chassis design was a after thought.

The short arms will also introduce some flex steer. As one tire drops down the short arms will pivot that corner towards the center of the chassis.


Do you plan on running it with that much angle on the links as shown in the pics? I try to keep my lower links close to parallel to the ground. Again, that is why I have cut up and rewelded my frame a couple times to keep my geometries where I wanted.

[Mnster]

Originally Posted by DaddyJeep

The short arms will also introduce some flex steer. As one tire drops down the short arms will pivot that corner towards the center of the chassis.


Do you plan on running it with that much angle on the links as shown in the pics? I try to keep my lower links close to parallel to the ground. Again, that is why I have cut up and rewelded my frame a couple times to keep my geometries where I wanted.

Yes also true. Yeah I lowered them a good bit when I moved it back.

Unfortunately, here in Illinois we have a lack of rocks. We mostly crawl areas full of tree roots and man made areas of sharp rip rap rocks. Areas that require a high amount of clearance and break over to get through. Very rarely do we face smooth high traction hill climbs like the guys out west. Belly clearance is something that will generally put you out front more so than being low on our rocks.

Also once the shocks bear some weight the chassis will ride a bit lower and level it out a little bit more.

If it becomes a issue I would likely choose a larger tire and lower the ride height before modding the mounts. Just to keep the center of gravity in check.

You do have me thinking though. With the short wheelbase break over may be less of a concern.

As short and heavy as this rig is, it likely won't handle like a comp rig. As long as it's not frustrating to drive along side everyone else I'm happy.

[klampykixx]

cool, all good info there, thanks for sharing.

ill sit quietly and watch with my popcorn :P

[Mnster]

I've been working on the front 3 link setup for several days. i will admit it's really not all that great. But, I've spent literally hours brainstorming and mocking up how everything will fit. Then in the end just said well... braze it up and see how bad it is. I've never been great at designing a suspension with a track bar as the bar always seems to limit travel and bind. I have a enormous transmission to work around, a steering servo that has to fit some where and a axle case with fixed link positions. Hoping it doesn't work to horribly some tweaking may be necessary as the build progresses. For now it should work well enough.





Shock hoops to come, really want to get this thing into a roller so I can start on the more fun stuff.

[Mnster]

Starting to like the front end a little more now that it is sprung. I need to work on the rear shock mounts but want to incorporate them into the roll cage. Some how I'd like the cage to bolt in so that I can have a interior tub. I guess just more replicating the 1:1 frame and rollcage design. Really enjoying the project perfect thing to put your mind to while out of work on medical leave, still can't walk but can roll my chair around machine to machine much better than TV.

[Bananaclip]

I diggin the home brewed metal work. Defiantly my kind of build.

[Mnster]

Trying to mock up the cab interior so that I can structure the rear shock mounts and make it a roller.

[danielk]

I love the short wheelbase! Keeps the essence of a Zuk.