Opinion on my HGP402

[PoorManRC]

Just a few!

[PoorManRC]

Originally Posted by clm

Nice truck Carmine, those axles definitely call for it to be built as a big heavy truck... and then it is smaller then my TRX

Ideally I would love to find a deuce and a half cab to put on it, but the only one I know of is the Cross RC one and it is many multiples of times more expensive then the poor truck was! lol I might end up going with an Axial Nukizer on it... as the axles make sense there. Maybe a k10 cab from Vaterra as with just a cab wheelbase is a mute point.

Thanks!! It's turning out better than I hoped, so far.... I'm definitely looking for a bigger, taller body. Like I mentioned, this one is from an on-road Vaterra, with a shorter roofline. Vaterra Crawler bodies are beefy enough. I'm thinking Ascender Bronco.... Or Pro-Line 66 Ford F100 Cab, and going old school Truggy!
Some of the new Pro-Line bodies are BIG!!

Fitting your TRX should be a challenge... That sucker is HUGE!
Do you think yours is top heavy with that Traxxas body?? I've heard that a couple of times...

I'll be getting more creative as soon as I can afford a transfer case..... I'll be moving the motor/gearbox to the front. That will give me better front bias weight, plus give more room, so my interior can be lowered at least 1/2" to 3/4"!!

[clm]

Originally Posted by PoorManRC

Thanks!! It's turning out better than I hoped, so far.... I'm definitely looking for a bigger, taller body. Like I mentioned, this one is from an on-road Vaterra, with a shorter roofline. Vaterra Crawler bodies are beefy enough. I'm thinking Ascender Bronco.... Or Pro-Line 66 Ford F100 Cab, and going old school Truggy!
Some of the new Pro-Line bodies are BIG!!

Fitting your TRX should be a challenge... That sucker is HUGE!
Do you think yours is top heavy with that Traxxas body?? I've heard that a couple of times...

I'll be getting more creative as soon as I can afford a transfer case..... I'll be moving the motor/gearbox to the front. That will give me better front bias weight, plus give more room, so my interior can be lowered at least 1/2" to 3/4"!!

Traxxas body is heavy... but it has a bunch of plastic pieces bolted to it so it will be heavy compared to a naked lexan shell.

The way I think of it, people who are getting the TRX is going to go one of two ways, dump the body and put a piece of painted saran wrap on it, or replace the body with a plastic brick covered by scale nic nacks making it even heavier... Crawler or scale trail truck...

And the TRX body isn't going on the HG... I might get an Axial dingo as the wheelbase is right, but so are the Mighty FC and the Nukizer. That Nukizer might visiably fit well with the massive axles and the extra TRX tires I put on it.

[clm]

Just got the frame rails and the chassis ends in so I can mock it up a bit further.. Here is my p402 currently as it stands.

The plans to go is to get some leaf spring kits to mount on this painted axial chassis, maybe a scx10 skid plate and a scx10II battery and servo mount. Repaint the chassis in some chassis semigloss black.. and then continue wondering what body to put on it... although I am leaning nukizer at the moment.

[PoorManRC]

I LOVE IT!!!
Those are the frame rails I'm gonna want. Just looks so much better, and more ground clearance in the middle! I was wondering how SCX10 rails looked on these.... It's perfect!

That's definitely the direction I'm going, plus getting a cheap, Chinese Transfer Case, and moving the gearbox up front. I want to see just how real I can make the interior, while keeping a Lexan body...
I'm gonna finally try to put up a post about mine, in this section. Look for it!

I personally like the Nukizer myself, pretty badass!!

[clm]

Problem with those plans that you have stated, the stock p402 trans is too wide to really go anywhere but in the middle. I wanted to drop the trans a bit myself but I can't even sneak it between the frame rails.

Most of my ground clearance is because the high pinion axles are very tall and to get adequate suspension travel with the shorter overall frame design they are actually pushed down to the point where the driveshaft is close to level with the skidplate.

If you want to go with a front gearbox style you might want to look for an e10 trans off ebay to mount in front? Or maybe more of something that has been designed to go in between the frame rails?

[PoorManRC]

I was actually thinking about this.......



There's a couple of Vietnamese guys making HUGE strides with these!!! One has even CNC machined front Chubs and spindles, MADE for HG, out of aluminum!

[PoorManRC]

And for fun.... someone has 3D printed a 4-Link conversion for these!

[clm]

Now that 4 link mod would be useful, if it were not 3d printed

I have heard you can mod scx10 c hubs and parts to work on this truck, I'm not yet up to that part of my build to try that however

I can see that trans mod working with the stock style chassis ok, although that is a fairly large trans to put up there. I might look into something like this myself as it mounts between the chassis rails.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AXSP...f-e5c349ed392b

And seeing as the axles I have are smooth and the only binding I am getting is from the trans... well

[PoorManRC]

I've done some measurements.... it looks like most hoods will go over the front mounted gearbox.
I thought the SAME thing about the 4-link bit. Maybe, somebody could CNC us a few of those!

I've heard the Chubs are a nightmare, but doable.....
The knuckles, nearly a bolt in! Just need a longer steering link.

That planetary gearbox is my FIRST choice!! 1:12 ratio though... But now that I'm thinking about it, 1:5 should work well, and be considerably cheaper too!
I'm only considering the HG gearbox up front because of lack of any Budget......

[clm]

Looks like you can get the same planetary gearbox with a slightly less fancy mounting system on ebay for a bit over $20

1:5 Planetary Gear box Kit for 1/10 Crawler Racing D90 Axial Car Truck

[Bob nolan]

So far on mine I've used all scx left overs. My knuckles are scx aluminum ones no clue who made them, the drive shafts I take apart and rebuild using axial plastic driveshafts and they have been holding up. But I got a metal two speed trans and have been working at getting the servo working and it to stop binding. I'm liking your hg crawlers but went heavy duty truck on mine. Been reading about people narrowing down the axle, next on my list but love these Trucks

[clm]

That is a pretty sweet 6x6

[aver3]

Aww, seriously, guys? Someone had to go mention cheap transfer cases and front mounted motors... Now I feel like I need another crawler to tinker with, and I'm not even done with the HG P402 yet!

[clm]

just pick up a few p402 axles and the cheap transfer case and front mount motor and go wild ;)

[aver3]

I just got a package with some parts for my P402 the other day. I also received some brake line to make links from, so I am hoping to beef up the suspension and fix the geometry this weekend. I'm kind of excited about comparing this tweaked P402 to a mostly stock SCX10 that I just rebuilt with a 313mm wheelbase.

[PoorManRC]

Can't wait to see this go together!!

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

[clm]

3 link to 4 link mod, as well as outboarded the upper links to allow for driveshaft clearance and eliminates side to side axle slop. I still need some parts before I can fully swap chassis so I am back on the stock chassis to do some testing.

Along with the dogbone drive cup mod Carmine showed I have managed to get near max steering available. My current issue is bad geometry in the steering knuckles.

[PoorManRC]

That's AWESOME! What did you use to tie the upper links to the top of the axle?
The outside mounting is also a great idea. I may have to try that.

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

[clm]

Originally Posted by PoorManRC

That's AWESOME! What did you use to tie the upper links to the top of the axle?
The outside mounting is also a great idea. I may have to try that.

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

I used.. a rod end, was an older one that does not have a pivot ball in it, from Tamiya maybe? But I used a m3 bolt and a spacer to mount the rod end in the hole at the top after taking out the ball.

I used a rod end with a pivot ball in it first, but found it allowed the upper links to shift back and forth. It definitely required a solid mount to both the upper link rod ends.