Hacked up clod on leafs

[fl0w3n]

This is my first build, first time brazing, and lots of other firsts. I've had this pile of parts sitting and an idea in my head for the past year or more.
I wanted a leaf sprung clod based scale crawler, and wound up going out and getting a GCM 4Ten chassis with some goodies, some Yota 2 axles, and a bunch of other little things. Then I realized the width on the Yota 2 axles didnt work with the 4ten frame, so it sat.

My SCX10 JK was torn completely down, and so I decided to start just hacking up the frame and using that as my base. Here is my start so far. I'm just winging it as I go along, so any and all input from experienced builders is appreciated.

So the plan is to basically make this a loosely SCX10 based rig. I'll be using the frame rails from the SCX10, the electronics, and possibly the trans/transfer case.
The 4ten setup will be up for sale unless I can salvage parts for this build. Let me know if you're interested in that!



So here's some of my first ever brazes, I think they should hold. I'm boxing in the frame and using leaf spring hangers/shackles from RC4WD.


Here's my placement of my rear axle, hows it look? I'm wondering if these shackle angles are going to be ok


This is my thought on wheelbase as I was playing around. This seems a tiny bit too long.


My problem with the front axle though is to keep the ride height with the rear I dont know what I'm going to do for shackles. The leaf eyelets need to be right where the frame is basically



I got the other side of the frame caught up, and this is a better shot of the shackle angles. I drilled the holes for the shackles so everything is bolted/mocked up for the rear basically.


Taking another look at the wheelbase, this seems a little short

[fl0w3n]

That's where I'm at now. I'm thinking since I've already boxed the rear end of the frame, I'll need to box the whole thing or I'll wind up cracking it. What I'd like to do next is start making some frame cross members, and maybe the center section for the transfer case, but I may not be ready for that.

I'm considering going with a smaller tire, but not sure yet. I want to basically go with a scale build mimicking a square body on ~37's with very little to no lift and lots of body trimming.

I'd like to do an internal cage, split the bed from the cab, bed drop, etc. I don't think I want to tackle the styrene work on my own so I'll probably see if I can get someone to do the body work for me when I'm ready.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

[SPLATT]

I'm going to be following this one and possibly stealing ideas for my own Clod bodied build.

[fl0w3n]

Originally Posted by SPLATT

I'm going to be following this one and possibly stealing ideas for my own Clod bodied build.

Thanks. Hopefully I can build a decent rig.

It's going to be very heavy I think.

[Crawls all]

very cool but don't forget a anti wrap bar.. I'm in the process of installing one on my tf2.. I love leaf springs and a an it wrap bar will prolong the life of your springs too

Backyard Boogie

[fl0w3n]

So this basically sat since my last post, collecting dust and piles of junk on top of it. I got discouraged because I just don't have a ton of time and it certainly is a lot of work to try and make this thing from scratch. I tried selling it all or trading it for just a ready to go crawler... but that didn't work either.

So, this weekend I got a day and a half to work on it and actually made some decent progress.

Again, this is my first time with brazing, and I've found it certainly is difficult to braze the flat sheet to the c-notch frame. Brazing tubing is much easier, I'm unsure why.

Anyways, onto the pictures.

So I finished boxing the frame which was a pain. I also added front and rear cross tubes to keep the frame square.




I will be cutting the excess of the cross tube, just left it for now. You can also make out the steering linkage I started on. Pretty proud of getting that done. It still needs jam nuts. Also, the threads are both standard so to adjust it I need to unscrew one end from the knuckle and adjust.



I've basically been winging it this whole time, just going off of eye balling it and setting everything up how I've seen 1:1's or other rigs on here... so I'm kinda guessing here on the front leaf shackles. Any input on this one is appreciated.




I then had to of course do some obligatory flex testing. With just the weight of the frame it doesn't have much flex without lifting a wheel, so had to add some force.





Last thing I got to was starting a steering mount for the servo. You can see the arm meets pretty close to being in line with the tie rod/center link. I'm going to try running a standard cross over high steer type setup. I might need a tiny bit longer arm on the servo, but shouldn't be a big deal.



Lastly, just another visualization on the end product. Still thinking I want to run smaller tires, something equivalent to 40" or 42" tires for scale.

[fl0w3n]

Any thoughts/tips/input appreciated. I'm really just winging it as I go along. I think the next step is to finish up the steering, not sure if the rod ends I got can swing enough angle to be used on the drag ling so may need new ones.

Also, clearly going to need to shim the front axle to get pinion angle correct.

Once I finish steering, then I think I will attack the motor mount but I'm not sure what to do about transfer case and transmission. I want to use the stuff from my SCX10, but I don't want to mount the motor in the center of the frame. I want it up front, but then I think I need a new transfer case.

I'll have to figure that one out I guess.

[durfeec]

Use the scx10 trans for your transfer case. With a toyzuki mount. On shapeways the have a 3D printed case to lay down the scx trans so it's not so tall if you plan on using a full interior.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fl0w3n]

Originally Posted by durfeec

Use the scx10 trans for your transfer case. With a toyzuki mount. On shapeways the have a 3D printed case to lay down the scx trans so it's not so tall if you plan on using a full interior.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That toyzuki mount looks like a good solution. Thanks. I'm on a budget but it seems necessary to get it done. M

Do you have a link to the shapeways case?

I was checking out the steering more, seems like this might work. The rod ends are maxed out as far as angle, but if I throw a washer on the knuckle side it may be okay.




I then fabbed up the bracket for the steering servo on the passenger side, and right as I got the front of the bracket brazed on I ran out of oxygen.






I think I need that toyzuki mount before continuing so I can figure out where I'm going to put the motor, then figure out the transfer case location from there, then figure out electronic mounting. I'm thinking I'll do an internal cage for the truck and some front and rear bumpers and sliders. I've never worked with styrene or done body modifications before so I'll need to figure that out.

[fl0w3n]

Silly question... but other than for scale purposes, will I need shocks with these leafs?

[durfeec]

i couldn't get it to link on my phone. You're gonna wanna run shock. I'm using scx10 shocks without springs on my sawback. Works good. If you don't it'll bounce around.

[bbungard]

Where did you get the U bolts and spring plates from?

[distinctive pd]

Looking great so far keep it up!

[fl0w3n]

Originally Posted by durfeec

[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160909/4f2906090a271986ea92abaa73387a4b.jpg[IMG]

i couldn't get it to link on my phone. You're gonna wanna run shock. I'm using scx10 shocks without springs on my sawback. Works good. If you don't it'll bounce around.

Thanks for that!

That sounds like a good idea, reusing the SCX10 ones for now. Like I said, on a budget. Eventually I'd like to go real scale but sounds like a nice compromise right now.

Originally Posted by bbungard

Where did you get the U bolts and spring plates from?

Good question... I cant remember but I'll look for it

Originally Posted by distinctive pd

Looking great so far keep it up!

Thanks! I keep burning through Oxygen right now so I'll need to get more... hoping I don't lose the momentum because I want to crawl again!

[BigSki]

I started a SCX-10 chassis leaf spring conversion a few years back, here's a pic of how I did my front spring shackle mount.




I made a bushing with a step in it, pressed in to a hole I made in the chassis and brazed it together. I had planned on boxing in the front portion of the "mount" for more support but never got around to it and it hasn't been as issue. I've driven this chassis only a few times, it seems to work as well as a leafy spring rig can run, I just haven'y had the time, place or ambition to finish it.


Here's a link to the build thread, maybe there's some ideas that might help you.

idea for a new build

[fl0w3n]

I had thought of just mounting the shackle straight through the frame, but then wondered if the leaf spring eyelet would hit the frame when moving, or if the middle brace on the shackle would hit the frame? The shackles you could cut apart into two separate plates easy, but what about the eyelets hitting the frame?

Also, love that Wheely King reduction box for the motor mount, I may do that instead of the Toyzuki. We'll see.

[fl0w3n]

Can I just run a RC4WD Gear Reduction Unit, like this one: 4:1 Ultra Compact Gear Reduction Unit for 540 Motor
straight to a 3rd driveshaft and then into the transfer case?

[Natedog]

Very nice start, love the hardbody Clod, leaf springs and RC4WD Yota axles, very clean and well thought out!

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by fl0w3n

I had thought of just mounting the shackle straight through the frame, but then wondered if the leaf spring eyelet would hit the frame when moving, or if the middle brace on the shackle would hit the frame? The shackles you could cut apart into two separate plates easy, but what about the eyelets hitting the frame?

Also, love that Wheely King reduction box for the motor mount, I may do that instead of the Toyzuki. We'll see.

Never had the spring eyelet hit the frame, or the shackle for that matter. I'm using some Chino springs, even when they are completely flattened out, nothing hit the chassis. I used a wheelbase jig so that I could set the spring mounts to get the best compromise of caster in the front springs, it also located the position of the rear of the spring for me. I got the inspiration for the rear mount by remembering how my old Chevy 4x4's had their springs mounted.

[fl0w3n]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Very nice start, love the hardbody Clod, leaf springs and RC4WD Yota axles, very clean and well thought out!

Thank you! I want to just get it up and running and then keep tweaking it from there.

Originally Posted by BigSki

Never had the spring eyelet hit the frame, or the shackle for that matter. I'm using some Chino springs, even when they are completely flattened out, nothing hit the chassis. I used a wheelbase jig so that I could set the spring mounts to get the best compromise of caster in the front springs, it also located the position of the rear of the spring for me. I got the inspiration for the rear mount by remembering how my old Chevy 4x4's had their springs mounted.

I saw that jig and that was a great idea. I put no thought into the alignment and just eyeballed it like I said. I hope I eyeballed it well enough!

I think I'm going to redo the front shackle mount like you did, I'll probably still need some shims to correct the pinion angle but it should be better than how I have it now.


Also, I already knew I wanted to run a bit smaller tire, something like a 40" scale tire, now I'm looking at running 1.7 steelies and likely IROKs for a scale 40" look.

I remember a while ago I found a vendor that sold different replacement scale grills for clods, either gmc or Chevy in different eras. Does anyone know where I can find those? I can't remember.