Poprivet's first full tuber named U.N.C.L.E.

[Poprivet]

No problem Mark, and thanks for the kind words.

Axles-
front: ssd housing, ssd brass tubes, ssd pro knuckles and chubs, vanquish cvd's, Locked up rc F1 spool, axial overdrive ratio hd gears (might change after a test run). Avid rc bearings.
Rear: ssd housing, ssd brass tubes, strc lockouts, strc stainless axles, Locked up rc F1 spool, axial stock ratio hd gears (might change after a test run). Avid rc bearings.

Transmission: vanquish scx10 tranny case, Axial hardened gears, Holmes hobbies extended 5mm outdrive, Avid rc bearings, Locked up rc slipper eliminator, duratrax 56 tooth 32 pitch spur gear.

Motor is a Tekin gen1 13.5 sensored brushless that used to be in my wraith, and has since been in a drawer. Hoping to replace it with a Holmes Hobbies stubby puller 3300kv eventually.

Drive shafts in the pic are stock axial, but have been changed to MIP front and rear.

The skid plate (motor tray) is from an axial wraith. Not pictured is the Duuuuuuuude's wraith link risers that may or may not make it on this rig.

The links are home made from 1/4" o.d. aluminum tubing with 1/8" i.d. tapped with 4mm and traxxas revo rod ends. Aluminum is not the best choice for links, but I have the tubing, and it makes link building pretty easy. I will likely replace the lower links with solid 1/4" steel rod drilled and tapped with 4mm.

The tie rod is 6mm solid aluminum rod drilled and tapped 3mm with rc4wd medium bent rod ends.

Wheels, beadlock rings, and hubs are vanquish with Locked up rc scale acorn nuts, and bolts.

Tires are pitbull growlers with Crawler Innovations dueces wild foams.

[Nbmonte]

Thanks for providing so much detail. I've messed around with rc helis and I've got a traxxas basher, but ive got a lot to learn about crawlers.

Another noob question if you don't mind, what is the layout mat called in this picture and where would I find something like it. I'm going to try googling it, but I don't know what it's called.

Originally Posted by Poprivet

[Poprivet]

Yeah i ramble sometimes, lol.
Hey we ALL started as noobs. Whether you been doing this for 1 month or 20 years, you started as a noob.

Here is a link to the mat. It was the only one I could find that had inches and millimeters across the bottom and was black instead of green.
http://www.shoplet.com/Adir-Corp-Adi...ADICM2436/spdv

[Poprivet]

This is me when this is all the solder I have left.


I did put it to good use though








Including these little ditties. Which make the rear axle officially suspended.




And of course...a little flex.

[CODYBOY]

Hey Poprivet, been waiting on a update. You don't have some builders block going on do you?

[Poprivet]

More like a little life block.
I did finally get solder.


I get my solder from a local refrigeration supply store. $30ish for 1 troy oz., $90ish for 5 troy oz.

I finally get out in the shop last night, and on my 3rd braze joint...I run out of oxygen. I did get both bottles swapped out today. My acetylene was also low enough I went ahead and swapped it out to.

I hope to get the front axle suspended tomorrow. Updates coming soon.

[Poprivet]

Progress as promised. I got the front upper shock mounts fab'd up and brazed on. Like the rear upper mount the front is some .10" steel plate I had lying around. Drilled and tapped for 3mm.


That means this thing is fully suspended. No biggy to some, but to me it let's me know some important things.
First being that there is plenty of tire and shock clearance at full articulation and lock to lock on the steering. Everything moves freely and no contact or binding anywhere.




Also shows me my skid to ground clearance. At full stuff. About 1-1/4"


And at full droop. About 2-3/4"


Still have a long way to go, but I now know I can move forward, and nothing had to change for clearance.
More to come. Thank you all for looking.

[Bmxreeves]

Wow! Looks sweet. I have maybe 1 1/4 of ground clearance at ride height lol


__________________________
1.9 Ibex tuber - The Merica ibex.

R.I.P Dave Mirra

[CODYBOY]

Looking good Poprivet!!! It is amazing how quickly an oz solder will go. When I'm soldering bigger pieces, like the shock hangers I put the solder on them first and then pre fit and then you can apply your heat to the tubing and draw the solder from the heaver piece to the tubing. Also helps so as not to over heat the tubing and save solder.
You are doing a great job in planning your steps. Not so many "one step forward and two steps back"?
Ernie,

[Poprivet]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

Looking good Poprivet!!! It is amazing how quickly an oz solder will go. When I'm soldering bigger pieces, like the shock hangers I put the solder on them first and then pre fit and then you can apply your heat to the tubing and draw the solder from the heaver piece to the tubing. Also helps so as not to over heat the tubing and save solder.
You are doing a great job in planning your steps. Not so many "one step forward and two steps back"?
Ernie,

I dont know how to add a second quote, but Thanks you guys.
Your right about the solder. I'm definitely getting the 5oz. Next time.
And there were a couple joints I had no choice but to pre-tin the pieces. Sometimes I need a 3rd arm. That's a good tip. Thanks for sharing it CODYBOY.

[raul shabinguez]

Meh. I've seen it in person. The welds are weak.

[Poprivet]

Ha ha, go drift around a monster can.
How's your brazed cage coming by the way?

[joe.bielski]

Oh man, just read through your entire build thread. Amazing work!!! Seriously one of the best U4's I've seen.

And great idea with the rat tail file. Wish I read this yesterday. I spent the last 2 days fish mouthing all my tube by hand. Seriously got callouses from that :(

Try to find some 45% silver solder flux. Still wicked strong but a bit cheaper.

Oh just remembered, I think the 7lbs minimum is to keep the playing field even. We had a minimum weight in VTA racing as well.
Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[Poprivet]

Originally Posted by joe.bielski

Oh man, just read through your entire build thread. Amazing work!!! Seriously one of the best U4's I've seen.

And great idea with the rat tail file. Wish I read this yesterday. I spent the last 2 days fish mouthing all my tube by hand. Seriously got callouses from that :(

Try to find some 45% silver solder flux. Still wicked strong but a bit cheaper.

Oh just remembered, I think the 7lbs minimum is to keep the playing field even. We had a minimum weight in VTA racing as well.
Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

Thank you sir. Keep looking though. There are some rigs out there that BLOW my mind.

I also keep a wet shop towel folded up laying on the back of my vice. That way when the piece or the file start to get hot I can cool them off quickly. I use it to cool off my fresh brazed joints to.

I do have some 45%, but I can definitely tell a difference. The 56% just flows better for me, and with less heat it seems.

I can see the weight thing evening up the field, but that may imply that a lighter rig would have an advantage over a heavier rig. I've seen both handle well. It seems to be more about weight placement than overall weight. just a thought.

[CODYBOY]

Hey guys, I added a step to using the file that makes the job a little quicker and easier. Before I start with the file, I pre-notch each joint on the corner of my grinding wheel (I also do wood turning and my grinder I use to sharpen my tools has a fine and coarse wheel) and I use both. Cuts the file time at least in half. Just thought it might help you out a little.
And he is right Poprivet, it is a great build.
Ernie,

[Poprivet]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

Hey guys, I added a step to using the file that makes the job a little quicker and easier. Before I start with the file, I pre-notch each joint on the corner of my grinding wheel (I also do wood turning and my grinder I use to sharpen my tools has a fine and coarse wheel) and I use both. Cuts the file time at least in half. Just thought it might help you out a little.
And he is right Poprivet, it is a great build.
Ernie,

Cool tip. Im all about efficiency.
That would help in making sure your notches line up end to end as well.

And thank you. You guys make me feel all warm and fuzzy.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Poprivet

Cool tip. Im all about efficiency.
That would help in making sure your notches line up end to end as well.

And thank you. You guys make me feel all warm and fuzzy.

One more quick little tip to get your notches to line up. I put my tubes on the table and run a sharpie along the table and the bottom of the tube. It gives me square reference points on both ends.

[Poprivet]

Brilliant! Your a handy guy to have around Ernie, thanks again.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Poprivet

Brilliant! Your a handy guy to have around Ernie, thanks again.

I know people who would argue with you on that statement!
But that is what your paying me for right? Second Tuesday of next week$$
Ernie,

[Poprivet]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

I know people who would argue with you on that statement!
But that is what your paying me for right? Second Tuesday of next week$$
Ernie,

Yes sir, the check is in the mail. I shipped it UBS.