Cherokee XJ Hardbody Class 1 Build

[IVIaarten]

Awesome job so far. Love the attention to detail!

[grandbolin]

That hoodlatch is superb. Nice job.

[Dustinf]

I got the dash wired up and installed. This isn't something new or unseen.

Works pretty well.

I regret not making the gauges light up with the headlights. Especially since it's going to have a working dome light.

[Dustinf]

I mocked up all the interior pieces that I've finished. Just to have a look. Still a ways to go before final install.







It's nice to see it looking like something.

I'll be making a headliner and all the other interior parts for around the windows using styrene. I also need to carpet the floor.

[Dustinf]

I've started making the other interior pieces. Roof liner and everything else that is needed.

But I've decided that I should paint the outside of the body first, That way I can glue the interior pieces as I make them.

I think this will be much easier... and it beats trying to hold four things in place at the same time while measuring.

[ThatJeeper2017]

Very good looking c1 sir!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Dustinf

I've ordered there 1:10 bonnet hinges from shapeways... I'm hoping they work.

The measurements make them seem huge.. but I'll have to wait until they come in.

Nice.

Originally Posted by Dustinf

How would you guys attach shapeways "strong and flexible" plastic hinges to the jeep hard body?

I'm thinking of drilling some small holes and using some two part epoxy.

E6000 is what I'd use, great stuff!

Originally Posted by Dustinf

I decided to make my own hinges... Hopefully these will work and look ok. They are pretty precise.

Very nice detailed build, love that you're trying to keep weight down but still super detailed!

[Dustinf]

Well.. I've finally put on the first color coat.

I have a ways to go though. Sanding, clear coat... wet sand and polish.

But this is the start.

[Dustinf]

Any of you guys have experience with Tamiya TS-13 clear coat?

I've read that you need to spray it right away or wait a month...

I'm looking for real world experience and or any tips you can give.

Seriously.. any advice, id hate to ruin this body.

I normally don't clear coat, but I plan on wet sanding and polishing this one.. so it's worth the extra time.

[Highmark]

I too read the horror stories but it it worked fine in my climate. I started with light coats and built up to a heavier finish coat. I think the only way to know for sure though would be to test it on a sample.

[Dustinf]

I've just been painting... and sanding..

Here is just the hood, wet sanded to 12000. It's unpolished in the photo.



The entire body and windshield will be getting this treatment.

I've painted the fenders, bumpers and grill in TS-29 (semi gloss black).. but it is too shiny for my tastes. Luckily I ordered and intended to spray TS-80 (matte clear) over it. Though I may take it off and just hit the plastic parts, as the bumpers one a full scale are painted in semigloss where everything else is molded plastic.

[Dustinf]

As for the gloss clear coat: I've decided not to use it.

I did a test and it came out fine, but for some reason the clear coat looked less scale.*

I guess if you took the thickness of the clear coat and worked it out to full scale... it would be really thick. Maybe that's why.*

So wet sanded/polished paint seems to look better. Which is convenient at the very least.

[Dustinf]

Wet sanding a cherokee body is not for the unmotivated... or the employed... or anybody. No one should do this.

So many sharp edges to avoid.

This is going to take forever.

[Dustinf]

Still sanding and polishing.

It's slow going... But it is getting somewhere.


I've been taking a bit of a break from this build to put together the Gmade GOM kit and see what that's all about. I'm not going too crazy with that build so it shouldn't take long.

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by Dustinf

Still sanding and polishing.

It's slow going... But it is getting somewhere.


I've been taking a bit of a break from this build to put together the Gmade GOM kit and see what that's all about. I'm not going too crazy with that build so it shouldn't take long.

I've seen few people bother to wet sand and polish the paint on an RC body, but you're the first I've seen tape up the edges to keep a sharp crisp line. Even some body shops don't take that step.
I'm really interested in the Axles on that new Gmade kit

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by spoo76

I've seen few people bother to wet sand and polish the paint on an RC body, but you're the first I've seen tape up the edges to keep a sharp crisp line. Even some body shops don't take that step.
I'm really interested in the Axles on that new Gmade kit

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

I can see why they wouldn't wet sand.

The axles on the GOM are really nice. They feel solid and have less flex than the ar60 on my yeti.

People are complaining about the locker being too small, though I havnt heard of any breaks yet. And they sell an machined locker in case it does.

[spoo76]

Does it use the same diff gear/locker combo as the R1 & drawback?

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by spoo76

Does it use the same diff gear/locker combo as the R1 & drawback?

I don't own either of those. But from pictures I looked up, no. Different locker. More similar to a twin hammers or scx10.

[ussprinceton2004]

one of the best builds I've seen. Will it be a shelf queen or not?

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004

one of the best builds I've seen. Will it be a shelf queen or not?

Thanks man!

It will be a Trail rig... that I baby and try to keep shiny.

After all the work of wet sanding... I don't want to do it again.

Luckily I've decided, after much internal debate, to use my buffing wheels with New, soft wheels on them and tamiya compound.

This will speed things up so I can get back to actually building.