Project: "Blue Ox" 4Door Yota (RC4WD TF2)

[justinart24]

After retiring my 2 Door Axial SCX10 flat bedtruck(>>>LINK<<<), I have deiced to go with a RC4WD Trail Finder 2 with a 4 door body. This is my first TF2 and I am excited to see what I can do to it.


***Suspension***
Trail Finder 2 Leaf Springs (Front)
RC4WD 4-Link (Rear)
Trail Finder 2 Shocks

***Drivetrain***
MIP DriveShafts
Trail Finder 2 Trans & Transfer Case

***Electronics***
Mamba Max Pro
Brood Onslaught Type GT 35T.
Hitec 7950 Servo (Steering)
Hitec 5645 Winch Servo (Winch)
CCBEC

***Chassis***
RC4WD Trail Finder 2 (Regular Wheelbase)

***Body***
RC4WD Trail Finder 2 four door
RC4WD Fender Flares

***Wheels and Tires***
Vanquish Products OMF 1.9 Scaler Rockcrawler Beadlock Series Wheels.
Interco Irok 1.7"
Crawler Innovations Foams

[justinart24]

I got my links made, time to start making body mounts.

[justinart24]

To get some more steering and strength, I decided to upgrade the CVD's right off the bat.
XVD Axle for Ultimate Scale Yota TF2 Axle

[Bananaclip]

Hell yeah! One quality Yota build in progress. Love following your work brother

[Highmark]

Looking good! I really like the new four-door bodies.

[justinart24]

Originally Posted by Bananaclip

Hell yeah! One quality Yota build in progress. Love following your work brother

Thanks! It's been interesting so for, I have never built a TF2...I like it so far.

Originally Posted by Highmark

Looking good! I really like the new four-door bodies.

Thanks! I dig the 4DR too.

[justinart24]

Started making some sliders, my body will mount to the sliders.

I started off bending up some 3/16" solid rod. I just used my vice to bend the rod.


It pretty hard to get same double bend but I was able to crank out 4 that were pretty close.


I drilled some 3/16" holes in the slide plates to increase the strength of the joint.


I am using some key stock for the outer slider bars, I like using this material because it mimic's square tubing quite well.


Before I trimmed the slider rods I made sure the body was centered.


I just use some tape to mark where to cut because it's sometimes hard to get a pen in tight spots with moving the body.


To increase the strength of the outer slider bar I drilled a 3/16" hole. Since I am brazing and not welding, I thought this might help.


The holes worked out well, it helped keep the key stock in place while I brazed the joints.


The next step will be to make add another tube and bolt some delrin on the slider so I can mount the body with a bolt to a tapped hole in the delrin.

[ternandbern]

Nice work!

[dirk379]

Good work, I've always just custom built scale rigs but have been contemplating building up a tf2 or tf2 lwb. Looks like fun, keep it up!

[Highmark]

Nice! I've done some joints like those, you'll never break them!

[justinart24]

Originally Posted by ternandbern

Nice work!

Thanks sir! I just a simple build, I didn't have the balls to hinge the hood like you did.

Originally Posted by dirk379

Good work, I've always just custom built scale rigs but have been contemplating building up a tf2 or tf2 lwb. Looks like fun, keep it up!

I am pretty happy with the TF2 so far, it might not be the most flexing or performance type of rig but this build is about a small tire scale truck.

Originally Posted by Highmark

Nice! I've done some joints like those, you'll never break them!

Thanks homie! Yeah, I don't know why I wasn't doing that before, I hate re-brazing stuff that might break....lol.

[justinart24]

Time for a little bit of body work.

Cool enough the Mojave body set comes with a "full cab back" and a "half cab back", I thought that was pretty nice of RC4WD.


I am using Plastruct Plastic Weld to bond the cab back. If you don't know, this Plastic Weld melts down the plastic and when you press to styrene pieces together...it will dry and create a pretty strong bond.


These small DeWalt clamps tuned out to be very helpful.


Before putting bondo down, I tried to sand it down as level as I could.


To fill in the crack between the pieces, I am just using standard car bondo. It works well for me as long as I don't have thick spots(it can shrink later on).

I put it down pretty think but I can carve it off with a knife before it fully cures. I let it cure for a few hours before I did some sanding.


Here is what it looks like after I sanded the bondo down. I also put a coat of primer down and sanding that down flush as well.


I didn't do much work on the bed but just sand down the primer that RC4WD put on so the paint will stick well.

[justinart24]

For primer I am using Tamiya Surface Primer(TAM87042).
For color base I am using Tamiya Metalic Blue(TS-19).
For my clear coat I use Testors Wet Look Clear(1834)
*For the new folks, I make sure to lay down light coats and give some curing time before coats(few hours).



For the hood, I used some flat black.


I also when with flat black in the bed to make it look like bed liner


I also painted the trim, as HotRodJosh would say..."your not done until you paint all the details". I also ended up going with the Tamiya front grill, I just like the headlights better, call me crazy.

656

[chevotafun]

Nice work so far, can't wait to see how this comes out.

[THUG LIFE]

Great looking Yota. Thanks for sharing.

[hillbillyrc]

The 4 door is looking good and very informative on the process of bonding, bondo, and paint prep. It's the little simple things that make life easier. Definitely a reference for myself when get to that stage in my build.

[Robs07junk]

Very Nice Paint Job And The Details Also !

[nwnewbie]

Looking good Justin! Can't wait to check this out at nationals!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[hotwheels000]

Nice job as always Justin, cant wait to see it in person. Bummed I couldnt make the comp this weekend.

[justinart24]

Originally Posted by chevotafun

Nice work so far, can't wait to see how this comes out.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by THUG LIFE

Great looking Yota. Thanks for sharing.

NP, thanks for the kind words.

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

The 4 door is looking good and very informative on the process of bonding, bondo, and paint prep. It's the little simple things that make life easier. Definitely a reference for myself when get to that stage in my build.

That's cool to hear, thanks for looking!

Originally Posted by Robs07junk

Very Nice Paint Job And The Details Also !

Thanks sir!

Originally Posted by alexleblanc

great looking details!

Thanks a bunch!

Originally Posted by nwnewbie

Looking good Justin! Can't wait to check this out at nationals!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Thanks homie!

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Nice job as always Justin, cant wait to see it in person. Bummed I couldnt make the comp this weekend.

Thanks! I really like it so far, cool to drive something different than a SCX10.