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Flyingwil' 2dr JK build I'm fairly new to this whole RC thing. It all started with years of me asking the wife for an SCX10 for Christmas for years in a row. Last year guess what was under the tree? Yup I was hooked... hook line and sinker. Now having 4 SCX10's it was time to graduate... So this Christmas I asked for a China JK body, and boom under the tree it was in all its glory. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fe9f043d97.jpg So being new to the whole building thing, I couldn't figure out how shoehorn an SCX10 chassis under it. I'm hoping that in a few years I can look back and laugh at myself for saying that! With that said, I set off to find a chassis that I could make work with my skill set. Someone in the local RC club had a GCM J2 Skeleton up for sale so I snagged that one up as soon as I saw it! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e6d7c1a25.jpg It came with a front and rear bumper and cage for the JK. Albeit not perfect, it's a start. The J2 chassis didn't even have a scratch on the links! I considered my self lucky to find this gem. I'm pretty impressed with the chassis fit and finish. So now it's off to the parts shelves and bins to see what spares I'll be plucking off the shelf to build this guy up. I'm still torn between C1 and C2 for overall build, I'll figure that out soon enough. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c856d3ffea.jpg So off to the kitchen I went to get a, um, beverage, and I dig the 1.9's under it. These are modified Mickey Thompson wheels and look awesome under the Jeep (body is just sitting on tires. So what's modified about those wheels/tires? Silicone instead of foams: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4bfc7ec37b.jpg I might just leave them on the shelf for my other C2. So the dilemma was now axles. Yeah, what should I grab? Since I'll be competing with it, this is what got plucked out of the shelving bins: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4d7bfbc4e9.jpg I have an oddball trans that I think I'll use. Don't know much about it other than I got it at a trunk-or-treat sale at a comp, it's shimmed and rolls super smooth.... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6b4398a32c.jpg I'm slowly collecting parts for this build. Got a nice shipment in from KTM hobby (only place I could find with the cantilever shocks in stock) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c101152b6.jpg Servo finally got in: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3c7d90d571.jpg Seems like I am forever waiting on the mailman so I can continue the build. |
Re: Flyingwil' 2dr JK build Made a tiny bit of what I thought was progress on the GCM skeleton. I reversed everything that was on it when I got it to fit the unknown transmission that I had laying around, fit shocks, fit axles, fit radio tray and had fun. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a16a637b77.jpg So apparently I need to reverse this whole thing... with the panhard link fixed on the 10.2 axles I can not flip that, so motor needs to be on drivers side... Here's where I got to this afternoon: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...290a7a6be1.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cf51d31f06.jpg So my issue that came up was the tiny steering link, dry run with no body caused small bump steer I thought I could mitigate by eliminating the aluminum transmission and going back to the plastic one. This meant reversing motor, trans, t-case, and radio tray to be able to get the servo horn as far away as possible from the knuckle. Definately time for a beer! I was surprised on how balanced the GCM Skeleton was: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12ebf63b56.jpg It was time to start swapping and building a trans. Well easy fix, hardest part was cleaning the layers of locktite. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bd95388149.jpg One thing I learned from YouTube is to mark your wheels so you can distinguish front from rear. I use different color screws in the beadlock a on the inside of the wheel. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e13897522.jpg So I'm in need of a tip from you all, how do you get the servo dampener (cushion) to keep from spinning while tightening it down? This is what I am talking about: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8c15dd45fd.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d9b66b6437.jpg While I was at this swap, I thought I'd tackle the battery mount. Since the GCM rear shock plates do not line up with cantilever bracket, I removed those plates. I wasn't sure how to get around this and it dawned on me while putting the spacers on the transmission, why not space them out too? I started by marking the holes on the mount that line up with the DinkyRC plates, drilled them and mounted them using spacers. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a815e6bcd6.jpg I'm very nervous about this setup, as I have broken every 3D printed thing on my SCX10 from knights customs and others... so I am a bit concerned about my solution since it ties into my rear suspension. To help it a bit I did add washers to the screws. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...465c51b9eb.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f2f48c369.jpg I think I got the steering links to look more like it should now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...94a1c45a97.jpg |
Re: Flyingwil' 2dr JK build Shocks finally got in and I put them all together with the exception of adding the sticker to the resi. Not too sure who designed GMADE's packaging but it's definitely lacking and reminds me of when Americans wouldn't buy LG products because it was then Lucky Goldstar... LOL https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...93545a93e2.jpg Assembly was pretty easy, as long as you look at the instructions. I missed an O-ring and had to disassemble after adding fluid then reassemble to get the O-ring I skipped. I assembled with green slime to make sure they didn't leak... never had a shock yet that didn't leak. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8c4196cf3.jpg Was super busy and the Jeep got neglected a bit. Got some minor trimming done and body mounted up on the chassis. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...04a21baf64.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9f520d2190.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8c030bf214.jpg Looks like I got a whole lot of trimming ahead of me. |
Re: Flyingwil' 2dr JK build Added some brass scx10.2 knuckles to keep the weight down low. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ec12b6a60.jpg Started making a servo winch based around a K2 winch. Found the first complaint I have about the GCM products, the front servo holes seem drilled inward too much for a standard servo, had to modify my servo to make it work with the radio tray, and hope it holds up. Changed the servo from top mounted like in pic below to bottom mounted and it JUST clears the VP servo horn. Had to modify the winch servo for the front body mount screw too. I'll get more once I get a winch controller. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9e1018cfff.jpg |
Re: Flyingwil' 2dr JK build Servo grommets? Why? Get rid of them. I believe they are meant to isolate the servo from vibration in nitro applications. If the webbing on the servo ears interfere, you may have to slot the mount to accept them the way you have it mounted. You could remove them, but I'd rather keep the reinforcement on the plastic part and sacrifice a bit of material on the metal part. Your drag link (from servo to knuckle) looks like it's going to bind at the rod ends under bump with those bent rod ends. Cycle the front suspension and prove me wrong, or you may have to switch to straight rod ends. It doesn't look like you will lose any down travel with straight rod ends, but your up travel is definitely threatened with those bent ones. Good start! Keep it up! |
Re: Flyingwil' 2dr JK build Look forward to following along with your build up Wil 8) Is that GCM chassis aluminum or steel ? My guess is aluminum... but I can't weld to that fer chit. dang those tires look like 50" rubber underneath that jeep :shock: I don't know squat about them servo winches and so I'm useless in that. But I do have two of those Savox 1230 servos. Work great in my 1/10 scale SCX-10 rolling 4.80" tires. No problems as long at the inserts in the tires aren't too soft. I've yet to break either of the two I have... But then I don't beat on them like I stole them neither. Lol But my 1230 would become overly hot turning 5.80" tires in my larger 1/6 scale. So I had to pony up for Savox's monster 2290 (bad ass/but not cheap). I'm thinking if I were rich... I'd have that 2290 servo in all my crawlers :mrgreen: Like that body... even though I'm not a mindless Jeep fan :wink: Your first few pictures were so big... my 20" screen was not big enough and I had to scroll right to view them and read what you had typed. Thanks for making them smaller "thumbsup" 3s voltage ? more ? (forget 2s, snooze) I'm not sure of what electronics yer using... But I would suggest using the HH's RX by-pass ( Y ) and feed that servo directly off an external BEC, supplied off the primary battery. I realize the 1230 only requires 6 volts... But the amp draw of those 1230's can still be a little hard on the RX if run thru it. ^ by passing the RX is easier on things and makes it more reliable IMO. My CC BEC is set to 6v for the 1230's But I run my other CC BEC at 7.4v for the 2290. So using the RX by-pass and external BEC means yer not limited by any servo voltage... now or later. If ya use an external BEC to power the servo, then the ESC's internal BEC can power the RX with less chance of a hiccup. Hurry up so's it don't look like a shelf queen for too long !? Lol |
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Re: Flyingwil' 2dr JK build Looking good Wil! Already made it farther in your build thread than I ever do... lol |
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