Sourdough Scaler

[sourdojack]

I have been collecting parts and building a class 2 scaler for like a year now...

The original plan was a Unimog, but I wanted to go XR width and that body is too narrow.

Next was a 66 Ford F100 body, but I wanted more scale points, so I got away from lexan and decided on a FJ40 from RC4WD. Then I decided to do a truggy back half for more scale points.

Here are some of the parts used:

Y-Town scale chassis made from steel (thanks Jake).
SSD axle housings.
RcBros U4 burly tubes modded for 3/8" SSD housing.
Axial UD gears rear, Standard Front.
Incision Lockers.
VP Currie XR width rear axles.
VP VVD XR width front axles.
VP wraith scale knuckles and C's.
Axial Yeti Wide Axle lock outs.
Axial Bomber drive lines.
VP Method Wheels.
Pitbull Growler XL 1.9 and foam.
VP .225 hubs Front and Rear.
RcBros Shocks.
RC4WD FJ40 Body.
Dinky RC Honcho Interior Kit.
AX10 trans built to nuts with Incision/Axial HD parts for transfer case.
Custom XR trans for motor mount/transmission.

Here are some pictures through the different stages so far:

[hotwheels000]

Nice start bud, you should have William help you finish it up. Should be ready by 2020 then lol

[sourdojack]

If anyone wants an easy way to convert a rear axle to XR width, this is the best in my opinion.

Parts needed:

Axial AR60 OCP Aluminum Full Width Straight Axle Hub Carrier

VP Currie XR Width Rear Axle Shafts

First step is to cut off the alignment tabs on the axle housing for the stock lock outs.

Then you simply slide the axles in, slide on the lock out, drill two 3/32" holes for the set screws on top and bottom. The axle shafts fit perfect with these lock outs and touch in the locker, so make sure your locker goes all the way through.

This also would work along with tube inserts for extra strength.

Here they are installed on my SSD D60 axle.

[Highmark]

Great start! Thanks for the tip on the XR width rear.

[sourdojack]

Just got a package from Supershafty and Vader Products. Thanks for the great service and fast shipping guys!

I decided to ditch the AX transmission for a more scale looking detached transfer case. I'm not a fan of the 32pitch RC4WD gears, so I went with Axial/VP instead.

Input shaft is going to be a stadium truck rear stub axle.

[Stuck]

Looking good! You got some great ideas going into this one!

[RcBro]

it'll never work

[Szczerba]

Does it work?

[VMGontheRocks]

But will it blend?

[sourdojack]

I was able to get the basis of the tube work done this weekend at my friend Jason's shop. Will from RcBros.com was also there to make fun of me all day. Frame extension, sliders, front stinger and rear bumper are combination of solid 3/16" rod at 1/2"x1/16" flat stock. Fender coverage is 3/16" DOM hydraulic tube. I will be using the tube for the cage as well.

The mig tack welds are going to be ground down and the joints will be brazed. Just wanted to use the mig for quicker and easier mock up.

Here are the pictures I took during the process:

[hillbillyrc]

Looks good, clean and simple. How much of the interior did you have to cut up to make it fit?

[sourdojack]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

Looks good, clean and simple. How much of the interior did you have to cut up to make it fit?

Thanks, I definitely plate on keeping it simple and clean looking.

The DinkyRC interior fit great once I doved the rear of the body. The dash was the only piece that needed cut down. I checked and even have enough room to run a flat floor, no tunnel.

[VMGontheRocks]

Looking good Tom!

You going to brace those rear shock tabs?

[sourdojack]

Originally Posted by VMGontheRocks

Looking good Tom!

You going to brace those rear shock tabs?

Thank you!

Yeah, the tabs were just tacked to see how the shock placement worked.

There will be a tube brazed between the two tabs. Then the tube is going to be threaded for a very secure single shear shock mount.

[RcBro]

To be fair, I didn't just make fun of him.. I did help pick the stinger shape hahaha.

[hillbillyrc]

What's the reason for brazing after its welded? I know you said you tacked it up to get things settled and we're going to clean it up afterwards. But why braze it also is it just for looks? Or is it for strength? I was just wondering and trying to learn something as I haven't brazed anything but thinking about learning.

[sourdojack]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

What's the reason for brazing after its welded? I know you said you tacked it up to get things settled and we're going to clean it up afterwards. But why braze it also is it just for looks? Or is it for strength? I was just wondering and trying to learn something as I haven't brazed anything but thinking about learning.

Brazing is easiest to get a weld all the way around the joints. With mig or tig you have to get access to all angles with the gun. Braze will flow around the joints when done properly.

[hotwheels000]

Looks good Tom, cant wait to see it.

[hillbillyrc]

Originally Posted by sourdojack

Brazing is easiest to get a weld all the way around the joints. With mig or tig you have to get access to all angles with the gun. Braze will flow around the joints when done properly.

Thanks for the insight

[sourdojack]

I finally got my hands on more DOM tubing Saturday. So on Sunday I spent about 8 hours working on the cage work. Huge thanks to Brad for letting my use his shop and pick his brain.

I still need to trim the doors and some other misc. body work. Also need mount servo and winch. After that I will do the final clean up/brazing and paint.

On to the pictures!