3Racing Crawler Ex (EX Real)

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by kaybo

Radio box needs some thought and planning. I can run the esc and receiver in there, but based on how it's built, I need super long battery leads - so that might cause me to do a little tray behind the battery to mount the esc (it's waterproof) and stick the receicer and something else inside the receicer box

Won't the ESC overheat sealed up in the receiver box?

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

Won't the ESC overheat sealed up in the receiver box?

Probably, but oddly enough all the pics 3Racing uses shows the speedo inside the box. And they all the waterproof Hobbywing, so go figure.

Like I said, I'll probably add a little some to the back of the battery tray and mount it there

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[kaybo]

Originally Posted by OSRC

If it ever stops raining... very interested to hear some details on how it runs

Yeah, but I'll take it out in the went as well. As long as I keep the receicer dry, I'll be in business

Besides, it'll only be a quick trip around the yard since I don't have a body for it yet

[Dungas]

Got mine today, there goes any chance of a productive day. what wheels and tyres are you running? i'll be hunting for something a little different to the blingy gold detailed ones that came with the kit.
Also not overly keen on the stock tyres/foams combo, seems way too stiff for my liking.
Will start a build thread at some point.

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by Dungas

Got mine today, there goes any chance of a productive day. what wheels and tyres are you running? i'll be hunting for something a little different to the blingy gold detailed ones that came with the kit.
Also not overly keen on the stock tyres/foams combo, seems way too stiff for my liking.
Will start a build thread at some point.

I'm probably not going to run the stock ones either. Didn't like the feel of them either

I'm running some Gmade wheels with some rc4wd knock-off tires - way softer than the kit 3Racing ones

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[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by Dungas

Got mine today, there goes any chance of a productive day. what wheels and tyres are you running? i'll be hunting for something a little different to the blingy gold detailed ones that came with the kit.
Also not overly keen on the stock tyres/foams combo, seems way too stiff for my liking.
Will start a build thread at some point.

Lucky! :jealous:

I plan on spending $5 on qty 100 of M2x6mm button head Hex silver bolts as I can't stand the gold beadlock hardware.

[kaybo]

Well, everyone wanted to know how it drives, turns, etc

So I took it for a test drive today around my soft, but not muddy back yard. Also, to give you an idea of electronics:

Hobbywing 1060 esc
JR ds821 (shifting)
Airtronics 94358 (steering)
No BEC (no high voltage servos in use)

PowerHobby 3s 5400mah
Flysky GT3B

Stock motor

Turning: on par, maybe a little bit better than my scx10. Turned out of spaces where I'd have to back up the other rig

Climbing: now, I don't have anything crazy in my yard, just a couple of thick pavers and a 3" think slab of concrete that used as end of a walk at a shed. It climbed everything without breaking a sweat, no matter what angle I put it. It's running 100mm tires, so the are shorter than 4.19, and it still went up without a problem. With the scx10, I'd have to watch the lines so the steering didn't hit. I have a feeling this is going to climb over everything. Even off the back end of the slab, no tank slapping

Speed: to me, way to much with the kit 35t and 3s and the kit gearing. Seems too fast. I have a 55t sitting on my bench that'll probably find it's way in here. I'm glad that it didn't get into 2nd gear, or else it would be stupid fast.

Shifting: as I alluded to, I had issues with the shifting. It seems to shift correctly, but with the wheels on the ground, the power never made it to them :( I'm assuming I built something wrong and will be pulling out the tranny to see what's up. Maybe it's my radio, since the GT3B is known for its issues unhacked, but I'll connect it to my KO Helios and see - at least rule the radio out.

Overall. It drove great. Can't wait to get a body and then get it out on the trail

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[Dungas]

hey would it be possible to get a couple of detailed photos of the front axle assembly? maybe because it was very late, maybe because i had almost split my chin open in a dremel vs beard confrontation but i waa having a hell of a time following the japlish instructions assembling the front hubs.
cheers.

Photo proof of said idiocy

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by kaybo

Well, everyone wanted to know how it drives, turns, etc

So I took it for a test drive today around my soft, but not muddy back yard. Also, to give you an idea of electronics:

Hobbywing 1060 esc
JR ds821 (shifting)
Airtronics 94358 (steering)
No BEC (no high voltage servos in use)

PowerHobby 3s 5400mah
Flysky GT3B

Stock motor

Turning: on par, maybe a little bit better than my scx10. Turned out of spaces where I'd have to back up the other rig

Climbing: now, I don't have anything crazy in my yard, just a couple of thick pavers and a 3" think slab of concrete that used as end of a walk at a shed. It climbed everything without breaking a sweat, no matter what angle I put it. It's running 100mm tires, so the are shorter than 4.19, and it still went up without a problem. With the scx10, I'd have to watch the lines so the steering didn't hit. I have a feeling this is going to climb over everything. Even off the back end of the slab, no tank slapping

Speed: to me, way to much with the kit 35t and 3s and the kit gearing. Seems too fast. I have a 55t sitting on my bench that'll probably find it's way in here. I'm glad that it didn't get into 2nd gear, or else it would be stupid fast.

Shifting: as I alluded to, I had issues with the shifting. It seems to shift correctly, but with the wheels on the ground, the power never made it to them :( I'm assuming I built something wrong and will be pulling out the tranny to see what's up. Maybe it's my radio, since the GT3B is known for its issues unhacked, but I'll connect it to my KO Helios and see - at least rule the radio out.

Overall. It drove great. Can't wait to get a body and then get it out on the trail

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Great job getting it finished! Sorry about the shifting issues; looking forward to seeing you figure that out. BTW do you have the stock Scx10 OG or stock Scx10 ii that you're comparing the steering to? Thanks mate!

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

Great job getting it finished! Sorry about the shifting issues; looking forward to seeing you figure that out. BTW do you have the stock Scx10 OG or stock Scx10 ii that you're comparing the steering to? Thanks mate!

Mine is, at least suspension-wise, the OG scx10 with SSD axles, aluminum c-hubs, and stock knuckles with cvds

And I found my issue, I missed an e-clip on the 2-speed shaft. So every time I shifted, it pushes the one gear away :(

This time I was smart, I had the motor connected so I built a section, tested the went to the next piece. So now I have power to the main drive shaft no matter what gear it's in

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[kaybo]

Originally Posted by Dungas

hey would it be possible to get a couple of detailed photos of the front axle assembly? maybe because it was very late, maybe because i had almost split my chin open in a dremel vs beard confrontation but i waa having a hell of a time following the japlish instructions assembling the front ....

:o wow

Hope these help

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[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by kaybo

Mine is, at least suspension-wise, the OG scx10 with SSD axles, aluminum c-hubs, and stock knuckles with cvds

And I found my issue, I missed an e-clip on the 2-speed shaft. So every time I shifted, it pushes the one gear away :(

This time I was smart, I had the motor connected so I built a section, tested the went to the next piece. So now I have power to the main drive shaft no matter what gear it's in

Nice work troubleshooting the problem; I'm glad you were able to figure it out. I was a little concerned at first that maybe it was a design flaw or 1st production run issue.

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

Nice work troubleshooting the problem; I'm glad you were able to figure it out. I was a little concerned at first that maybe it was a design flaw or 1st production run issue.

Nope. Totally my fault :(

However, I'm glad 3Racing packages the shift nut in with the spur gear, I ground some of mine away when it wouldn't get in gear - so I'll have to get 2 spare spur hear sets now

Plus all the spares, when ordering direct from 3Racing are fairly cheap anyways

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[StomperCrawler]

Here's a build video if anyone's interested: https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=_fXytqn9JRw

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

Here's a build video if anyone's interested: https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=_fXytqn9JRw

That's not yours is it?

If not, dude is doing the #1 no-no, electric drill to screw in parts :( easiest way to strip out the screws and/or the plastic. As much as of a pain in the butt the screws were, I never would have used that minji drill :(

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[Dungas]

thanks for the detailed pics, pretty sure i've got it all sussed now.
I'm just starting on bag #6 now. forgot to charge my phone so not many photos for when i start a thread of my own and stop hijacking yours ;)

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by kaybo

That's not yours is it?

If not, dude is doing the #1 no-no, electric drill to screw in parts :( easiest way to strip out the screws and/or the plastic. As much as of a pain in the butt the screws were, I never would have used that minji drill :(

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Nope, not mine. He has another video that outlines the kit's weaknesses, some of which need creative solutions:

1) Reversed drivetrain requires zero-degree-timing motor
2) Non-waterproof electronics box requires silicone sealant and re-soldering ESC power connectors to waterproof
3) Button head screws used where stronger cap screws should be
4) Weak front bumper mounting system
5) Weak plastic beadlock rings should be metal
6) Wheelbase not adjustable as advertised without purchasing new links
7) Wheel nuts not locking
Servo arm location gets hung up easily on obstacles
9) Weak thin aluminum motor mounts with threaded screw holes

Did I miss anything?

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

Nope, not mine. He has another video that outlines the kit's weaknesses, some of which need creative solutions:

1) Reversed drivetrain requires zero-degree-timing motor
2) Non-waterproof electronics box requires silicone sealant and re-soldering ESC power connectors to waterproof
3) Button head screws used where stronger cap screws should be
4) Weak front bumper mounting system
5) Weak plastic beadlock rings should be metal
6) Wheelbase not adjustable as advertised without purchasing new links
7) Wheel nuts not locking
Servo arm location gets hung up easily on obstacles
9) Weak thin aluminum motor mounts with threaded screw holes

Did I miss anything?

Hmmmmmmm - here are my responses to you/his points. Am I an expert, god no - but I've been around R/C cars since the mid-80s and I've owned my fair share of chassis over that time. Some ha e been really good (TC3, HB lightning, HB TCXX) and some have been over complicated POS's (tamiya 4wd F1, 3Racing F1)

This is a decent truck for a really decent price.

1) how does RC4WD do theirs? It's a similar setup. A zero timing motor is not super uncommon, as most sealed can motors are zero timing -- so not a huge deal in the end.

2) 3Racing tells you on their site that the box isn't 100% waterproof, just water resistant. And honestly, short of fully submerging the tuck, that box will protect your gear as is. They give you a rubber basket to help keep water out. If you run a Hobbywing 1060 or 1080, the box is not necessary

3) well, guess he never built an axial kit? Axial are all button or flathead. I don't see any spots where a cap head would be better. The servos are secured with a flat head and a cone washer, like high-end TCs or buggies do

4) maybe, don't have mine mounted yet.

5) the kit wheels suck period. If you look at the price to buy a new set of 4 (like $6) you'll understand that you're not dealing with top of the line. They work, but most people would replace them anyways.

6) and what truck is? At least out of the box? I can't think of any, and I've looked at pretty much all the main players. Just be glad it's not leaf spring'ed.

7) actually 3Racing gives you the serrated ones, the kind that bite into the plastic, and technically they are better then the nylon lock nuts - which will wear out over time.

not sure about this. Need to get the body and then get it out to play for real. But in my quick climb over everything in my yard, everything worked well. Betcha be built the arms wrong - have the knuckles too far forward instead of all the way back, like the manual shows.

9) the plate is about 1.5mm thick. Plenty thick (IMHO) for this type of setup. The motor actually connects to the can and that connects to the plate, so it's not a high stress area.



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[kaybo]

Originally Posted by Dungas

thanks for the detailed pics, pretty sure i've got it all sussed now.
I'm just starting on bag #6 now. forgot to charge my phone so not many photos for when i start a thread of my own and stop hijacking yours ;)

Hey man, hijack away. Ask questions. I wish I had someone else building one when i was doing mine, then I wouldn't have had to re-do so much

Share a link to yours, wanna see

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[StomperCrawler]

Excellent responses. Don't get me wrong: I'm not trying to bash the kit. I guess I should've asked "You have this kit in-hand. What do you think of this guy's opinion? Are they legit or is he being too picky?" I didn't mean to offend; just wanted to know what you thought.