Angrychair's 1.9 truggy build GMRC Trojen RC Fab

[angrchair]

I've been patiently waiting for my chassis to arrive from Troy at Trojen RC Fab.
Today it finally did.

It consists of a GMRC Drag queen frame rail set, along with delrin skid, and a mig welded steel rod back half and bumper. Body will be Pro-Line Vaterra Ascender F1979 Ford® F-150

Build will be a Panhard setup with CMS up front.
SCX10 transmission most likely.
CC or HH motor and ESC in the low 2000kv range on 3 and 4s.
Spektrum receiver

Going to try and use as much SSD on this build as possible.



This will highly be a help me build it thread

[angrchair]

I wasn't satisfied with the black painted finish on the chassis, mostly because it got shipped wet, but more because I wanted to fix the mig burs, so I stripped the paint and have deburred the chassis. I'm going to clean up a few of the mig blobs also here and there for a smoother exterior, less hangup chances even in the slightest.

I will repaint the chassis to a color that matches what ever axles I go with, or toying with ford blue.

Still have not decided on axles yet.
I was going to get VP Currie rockjock XR's but the increased price over the SCX or even wraith version turned me off.
I was going to go with SSD D60's with XR beeftubes or Team Ottsix TKO XR beef tubes's but availability is nill, they seem discontinued, don't want to mess with anything that its hard to get parts for.

Pretty much back to deciding between Rockjocks or portals.
I'm not anti-plastic housings but finding a plastic housing with available brass beef tubes is getting silly.

[valheru]

Nice looking chassis.

[angrchair]

Had some good progress this weekend. I took a trip to the big hobby store, picked up my Proline 79 Ford F150 cab body, a Castle Mamba X 1900KV combo, and a SR415 receiver.

As it turns out, my friend was selling an OG SCX10 heavily used. I picked it up for $150 last night for a donor and it ended up having a few good bits on it.

I salvaged the transmission that needs bearings but otherwise good
MIP driveshafts
Robinson Racing pinion and slipper clutch spur gear setup
a decent Hitech waterproof servo
stock shocks that had no oil left in them
stock axles with Axial c-hubs and knuckles up front
and the link set which needs some love, a pair aren're the right length because the front pinion angle was really bad. I should be able to make them work since my chassis has all the upper link adjustments.

Unfortunately it was using side saddle battery and electronics mounts, which I won't be able to use due to my truggy cage.
I'm thinking about getting a JR battery/electronics tray.

Got the transmission cleaned and re-greased, and the Castle motor mounted, and the skid mocked up with lower links.

[angrchair]

Jevne racing electronics tray installed, had to drill a set of holes for the battery side mounting
Rebuilt the SCX10 trans with new bearings
got the axles mocked up, front links are way out of line. more on that next.



Upper links are too long, but I want a longer wheel base, so instead of making shorter upper links to bring the axle back into the wheel wells I will make longer lower links.
I am making my own lower links from 8/32" all thread and 1/4" .035 wall SS tubing


Body trimmed for test fitting

[angrchair]

More progress teaser:
rebuilt and swapped the scx10 shocks back on, the RTR Bomber shocks were just too stiff.
Body is painted and done.
Lower links are mocked up and in for testing, waiting for the SS tube to arrive to sleeve them.
Currently chassis is disassembled for paint


Believe I'm going to go with some black 1.9 D holes and a set of Team Ottsix Voodoo KLR's.

[angrchair]

Version 1.0 is finished, Down the road I want to swap in some Ottsix TKO's with XR mod beef tubes.
Time for test and tune. Weights about 9 pounds.

Trojen RC built chassis
GMRC drag queen frame
Vaterra Ascender F150 body
Castle Mamba X 1900kv
Hitec hs-5646wp pretty much guaranteed to have to upgrade
JR battery/electronics tray
SR415 receiver
MIP driveshafts
Team KNK hardware
SCX10 Transmission with Fast Eddie bearings
Robinson spur
SCX10 axles and shocks
custom links 12.5" wheelbase
1.9 D holes with Vanquish .475" hubs
Voodoo KLR X4 with sub 12 pound truck foams running outer foams only, wheel weights took up the room for the inner foam.
I did buy some 1.9/22 beef patties but they would not fit the wheels rear beadlock screws. so going to toss them on my Bomber

[angrchair]

took my Truggy and bomber to the local Sunday crawl meet at Elephant Rock state park....
Stripped the gears in the steering servo on truggy falling down off of the very first obstacle...proceeded to drive Bomber for the next 4 hours.

[angrchair]

Put my Savox 1283SG in the truggy, ran it 4 hours on 3s 5200mah pack yesterday with no issues, single pack lasted all 4 hours and was still at 3.79v per cell when I got home and put it on the charger to put it at storage voltage.

Crawls decent already, in need of shock tuning, torque twist and side hilling body roll is bad.
Trimmed the front fenders up a little due to excessive rubbing. Proud of the SCX10 axles/housings for holding up to the 1850kv 3S torque.



Also bought the step kid a scx10.2 honcho









We both wrecked here, I landed in the fern though.

[angrchair]

Much needed transmission housing upgrade, the two shorter mounting holes were stripped from previous owner and trans kept coming loose.



Indoor crawl at RC Powerhouse Rolla Missouri

[angrchair]

I have about 10 hours of driving time on this truck now. Tires are starting to get broke in. Not really in love with the side wall/hilling of them. The rear cage really is a burden on the CG, it's not bad though since I have weighted wheels. Should only improve with built axles/beef tubes.

Steering angle right now is the biggest killer, I have the high steer axial knuckles, but with the stock front shafts there is a very horrible turning radius, can't find OG shafts to replace them for the SCX10 axles. Will AR44/10.2 shafts work? My guess is no.

There are a few small things I want to tweak like links and pinion angle, but I still cannot decide on what axles to build.

I want good clearance with a small pumpkin. VP Portals are not out of the question, also strongly considering Ottsix TKO V2's with beef tubes if I can do them on a budget and re-use my scx10 OG internals, not too sure about that. Anyone?

[angrchair]

Scored a good used set of scx10.2 F9's with SSD knuckles for less than it would have cost me to build anything else. Borrowed a set of trx4 shocks,and trying out some different tires, not really digging the Voodoo X4's. Trying to get a set of KLR reds in 4.7"




Made my own bent steering link.




Built new upper front links and shortened the lowers a bit to get pinion angle where I wanted it.



Built new rear upper and lower links and shortened the wheelbase just a bit, got my wheelbase down to 11 7/8" or 302mm, front is slightly shorter than the rear now.








After building 4 link for the front, I decided to try out a CMS setup instead of ordering the Vanquish f9 servo mount that comes with extra stuff I don't need. I chose the LockedUp RC 10.2 servo mount and panhard link. It has adjustable mounting points, which I needed since my wheelbase is not exactly stock lengths and I want everything to line up properly It should be here this weekend.

Pulled out my electronics to get an idea of what I have to cut to clearance the servo and mount.

[angrchair]

Ended up having to mount the servo farther back due to bracket limitations and moutning for panhard geometry.


Holes drilled and panhard link mounted, parallel with axle housing.


Lots, and I mean lots of measuring, cutting, testing, rinse and repeat to get steering and panhard links good. I have to shorten the steering a bit more still, have a little bit of bump steer I think because my steering link is still a little longer, but I didn't want to make it too short, I can always make it shorter, but I can't make it longer without using up more material.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/MOYScGQh.jpg[/img

Ended up having to do a bent panhard to clearance reasons, but steering doesn't have to be bent as long as end points are still 'parallel as possible'. Full range of motion with no hitting or rubbing.


Electronics are back in, and endpoints are set. Ready to rock. I have some Voodoo KLR Gold 1.9 4.7'' on their way, I traded my Voodoo X4 golds for.


Not pictured, but i was able to flip my servo around so the pitman arm/servo arm rotates together with the knuckles instead of being faced around the other way.

It was really ashame to cut up my JR electronics tray when ever they make one for CMS, but I didn't feel like spending the money on another one and selling this one.

Next winter project for this truck will be to strip the chassis back to metal and do a new finish, the self etching primer and black rustoleum just isn't holding up and chips off too easy. I think I'm just going to strip/sand blash it and polish it up, then clear it, or just let it rust.

[angrchair]

Traded my Voodoo X4 golds for Voodoo KLR golds.