VS4 for the 1.9 noob

[B-MOW71]

After looking at a pic of mine, it looks like the cage might fit if you cut the back supports off.

Looks like a nice rust kit. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.


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[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

After looking at a pic of mine, it looks like the cage might fit if you cut the back supports off.

Looks like a nice rust kit. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.


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After looking at that I’m more stoked !
My worry was the height, but looking from the front cut and cage top, I think it will work with the back open, and the cage in contrast..... (just happen to have Tamiya ps in stock)
I saw this knights shot
Looks like mine is a week out, that gives me body prep time


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[mikemcE]

Impatient as always, needed to get the weathering started, roof or not!
So grabbed the degreaser after masking inside and out, wipe down, ready for some water and salt. Let that dry and set, hit with a quick coat of white over the salt. Let dry, and wire brushed most of the salt off, and wet sanded the rest down smooth. I did add a few selected dents before to rough things up.
Now I’ve hand brushed two coats of iron paint on and into dents and chips exposed with the salting.
Waiting for these to dry, then activator is sprayed and I’ll have rust in a hour or so. Then onto some more salt and final body colors.
As usual stay tuned....

Yes the hood is getting weathered, the scoop is fiberglass bonded onto the stock hood, so no rust in the center!


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[mikemcE]

Interesting product!
Works as shown and claimed.

Two coats of base, let dry, then activator results will start showing in 45 min to an hour...... right where we are now!


I’m waiting another hour to salt again over the rust, that will be the first final color coat also.
No I’m not hitting it with flat clear before salting, as it will be reactivated again when removing the salt. At that point I may add some more to the deep spots, before finishing with powders and flat clear


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[mikemcE]

Salted and painted first and second color coats. Now to sit and wait. With the layers in place all must totally dry before sanding.


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[mikemcE]

Spent the last hour of light sanding and reactivating the rust. I’m getting excited as I’m not going to need the airbrush for rust. This kit, along with some Tamiya weathering powders will work perfect. As I finished after dark no pictures today .


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[mikemcE]

Slowly but surely rust is happening, and Knights Customs in the House!



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[mikemcE]

Lovin the fit!
Now to see if it stays black or gets some silver.

I did find that the roof fits over the cage ! So now I’m rusting a roof for a cruddy half cab!


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[mikemcE]

Gettin close !


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[mikemcE]

Crusty !!

You would think for the money VP charges for this kit, the damn grill wouldn’t rust!



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[mikemcE]

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[mikemcE]

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[mikemcE]

Had so much fun doing the body, I decided to clean and adjust things, swap out the wheels for black steelies. Well one thing led to another and I decided to move all the electronics, as those wires were a huge mess. So here is before

And now



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[mikemcE]

Closeups of my rusted and dinged lexan



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[mikemcE]

Eventful week. Here is the LAST wiring job I’m doing on this truck. Was happy, but Santa brought me a MMX, and a new 3D rear magnetic body mount, from Club 5 racing.

Issue started last week when my budget dig servo started acting up and died. Pulled things up to clean and adjust, Done, and looked great. Then the MMX came and had to rewire and move things to fit, , then when done, installed the new rear mount. fits perfect and looks great, BUT....... !!!!
(More on that later)
I liked the whole thing looks wise, cleaner than the Knights Customs rear clip mount I had been using, But now the body didn’t fit somewhere??
So remove rear inner fenders , remount and inspect with bright light, found I had to move both RX box and MMX backwards to clear interior.

Now the back snaps on and the front clips are secure.
The issue I had with the printed rear mount was non captive nuts....... simply when you drop the supplied nuts into the bottom pocket, then fasten them thru the frame mount and because the nuts are loose, you can lift the rear straight off, as the nuts are loose!
Gel supergluing with kicker solved the issue by filling the pocket around the nuts, so they were captive....
On thing I love is the fit with the Knights fuel cell I added


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[mewalsh100]

Looking good Mike. Love the weathering!

[mikemcE]

This rig was a nightmare wiring. I had no real issues, until the dig servo went nuts. Replaced it and all was well......until it did the same again.
After setting centering with subtrim and endpoints, it kept picking new center when powered. Checked rx settings, all other settings in TX.....
Spent the rest of the day checking and cussing. Solved it by pulling the dig........

Then I went into tuning.I will say the difference between the Holmes 2700 and the slate 1900 is Black and white!

I cannot believe the torque difference.

[mikemcE]

Bit of an improvement, went to front body magnets. Ditch the clip!!!!
The standby 1/2” rare earth ring magnets. Mounted up on lowered posts, now to wait 24 hours without touching............



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[B-MOW71]

Nice. I've been thinking about doing the same. Just wasn't sure how well they would hold the body on. Did you use E6000/Shoe Goo to attach magnets?

[mikemcE]

Shoe Goo.
I watched the video, I was surprised about the ring magnets attracting each other.... totally true, I will wait till tomorrow to separate , I have a new body coming for Bea, so wanted to try this first . As this body is painted on both sides, thought it would work well.
As I’ve been running a rear magnet mount I really started liking it.

https://youtu.be/JattsfLcmuw

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