Chopped and Dropped Class 2 D90

[nedmo]

Got it swapped around to left offset and on the jacks for a poser photo!

I have been designing running boards and inner fenders. I'm waiting on my trans, rear axle and gears for the transfer case before I go further.

I do need to cut the body, but I'm honestly a little daunted by this!!

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[4RunnerKid]

nice work on the offset tubes. i may have missed it, but what front axle shafts are you planning to run?

[nedmo]

Originally Posted by 4RunnerKid

nice work on the offset tubes. i may have missed it, but what front axle shafts are you planning to run?

Cut down wraith unis. They are exactly the same size at the drive end as scx10ii so fit fine in the chubs.

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[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by nedmo

I do need to cut the body, but I'm honestly a little daunted by this!!

I can understand that, one of my projects is at the same stage and I'm also a bit hesitant to start hacking without a plan laid out first.

I was thinking of designing and printing a few guides that I can clamp to the body while I make some of the cuts.

I've been leaning more towards using fine toothed saws over a cutting disc since the discs tend to melt things as they cut. Now I'm wondering how a oscillating tool might fair? It would need a guide for sure but they can do plunge cuts that a normal hand saw couldn't.

The offset axle looks nice

[nedmo]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I can understand that, one of my projects is at the same stage and I'm also a bit hesitant to start hacking without a plan laid out first.



I was thinking of designing and printing a few guides that I can clamp to the body while I make some of the cuts.



I've been leaning more towards using fine toothed saws over a cutting disc since the discs tend to melt things as they cut. Now I'm wondering how a oscillating tool might fair? It would need a guide for sure but they can do plunge cuts that a normal hand saw couldn't.



The offset axle looks nice

Yeah picking the right tool is crucial. I have been doing some.reading and it seems using cotton thread is one of the cleanest methods. More work but leaves a very smooth cut and it's more controlable than a cut of disc.

Going to do some practice cuts first to see how it goes.

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[HumboldtEF]

Oh I forgot about that method, I've never tried it. I might test it out too.

[nedmo]

So got the transmission all assembled! Can't believe that I nailed the gear mesh first time!

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[klampykixx]

Seems I missed a few of these updates. Looks like ur smashing out some of these details.

Your axle tubes give my ideas for my build. I can see yours are printed but it makes me wonder if ar60 tubes would work over the top of ar44 housings for an offset pumpkin to suit my Jeep projects.

Keep ur progress rolling

[nedmo]

Originally Posted by klampykixx

Seems I missed a few of these updates. Looks like ur smashing out some of these details.

Your axle tubes give my ideas for my build. I can see yours are printed but it makes me wonder if ar60 tubes would work over the top of ar44 housings for an offset pumpkin to suit my Jeep projects.

Keep ur progress rolling

Thanks man. Yeah not sure about that idea sorry. I've never actually owned a complete factory axle haha. Hell I've never even owned a kit or RTR crawler.

Got the skid finalised and trans mounted.

Now I need to get to design the front LNC mount and dual servo plate.

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[nedmo]

Got my rear links setup. Using 90mm icons for mockup.

It looks like to me I could benefit from making the top shock mount higher so that I can get more up travel.

Haven't done a build like this before so input would be appreciated.

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[klampykixx]

I'd base the up travel on tire size and the wheel opening at the body.

So put the body on and judge it?

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by nedmo

Got my rear links setup. Using 90mm icons for mockup.

It looks like to me I could benefit from making the top shock mount higher so that I can get more up travel.

Haven't done a build like this before so input would be appreciated.

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My thoughts on this is a little different than klampykixx, (which is based on personal preference) but I agree with you. If you are building this as a comp scaler the axles need to be as close to the frame as you can when shocks at the bottom of their compression. This will help in lowering your COG. The body fitment is always my last concern. JMO
Ernie

[klampykixx]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

My thoughts on this is a little different than klampykixx, (which is based on personal preference) but I agree with you. If you are building this as a comp scaler the axles need to be as close to the frame as you can when shocks at the bottom of their compression. This will help in lowering your COG. The body fitment is always my last concern. JMO
Ernie

While I agree with you, if the shocks bottom to the frame then the body will have to be higher relative to the frame which will raise center of gravity.

I personally prefer the body to be at a realistic position relative to the frame and then mod arches and travel to suit.

I guess this is the difference between my preference to realism, vs a competitive vehicle.

Suspension wise, I've always aimed to get the bottom of the shock body appropriately level with the bottom of the frame and then choose shock length and then top mounts based on how much articulation it requires.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by klampykixx

While I agree with you, if the shocks bottom to the frame then the body will have to be higher relative to the frame which will raise center of gravity.

I personally prefer the body to be at a realistic position relative to the frame and then mod arches and travel to suit.

I guess this is the difference between my preference to realism, vs a competitive vehicle.

Suspension wise, I've always aimed to get the bottom of the shock body appropriately level with the bottom of the frame and then choose shock length and then top mounts based on how much articulation it requires.

Sounds good to me, Like I said it is a matter of personal preference. I don't mind trimming the body and wheel wells to get COG down. I like to run my trucks with at lease 60% droop. Think it just depends on what your priorities are, performance or looks. A lot of the 1:1 scalers out there have a lot of body mods that change their truck's original body design. Realism is really in the eye of the beholder.
Ernie

[nedmo]

Haha, its like the two voices in my head. I can see merits to both arguments.

In reality the body will end up being the the limiting factor for this particular build. even with my agressive chop. Body sills are going to be sitting on the sliders. So I think as Klampy suggested, im going to get the body mounted (daunting!) and then work on shock placement.

Thanks for the both input.

[nedmo]

Ok so got the wheelbase basically right (might need to pull the front in 5-10mm)

Got the body mocked up in 4.75 tyres.

I think it's sitting too high personally. So I think 4.45" tall Pitbulls Rock Beasts will be better.

Last photo shows the rear shock length at this ride height.

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[CODYBOY]

Like!!!

[klampykixx]

Originally Posted by nedmo

Ok so got the wheelbase basically right (might need to pull the front in 5-10mm)

Got the body mocked up in 4.75 tyres.

I think it's sitting too high personally. So I think 4.45" tall Pitbulls Rock Beasts will be better.

Last photo shows the rear shock length

Looks pretty good, I agree with smaller tires .

I typically run shocks around 30/70 with more droop than uptravel. Hope that helps

[nedmo]

Yep also going to order some shock keys to kick the shocks back/forward on angles to get more up travel.

Played around with mounting the LMC trans.

Im tossing up if its too high to be a performance modification. Technically the motor in this position is higher than if I used a 3 gear trans. But it's a good chunk of weight up front.

Photos of the different positions available to me.



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[klampykixx]

I try and aim to put the motor shaft where the crank would go in the real engine. For me, it creates the most realistic weight balance.

For example, I've just picked up an scx10.2 for my xj project. I'll be spinning the stock trans and placing it in the position the auto would go, and then the motor will be on the back of a planetary reduction, and then connect to the strains via the spur shaft.