1st gen Durango IFS TRUE SCALE (you're going to want to see this)

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Seeing how you have the geometry angled underneath reminded me of an old truck I saw once. So I did some googling and found a couple of different examples. I didn’t find what I was looking for.

The steering knuckle would be fixed to the lower arm causing the wheel to follow a circular path and not a linear. [/IMG]

I know about I-beam style front ends, I know there is even a way to make them have driving axles in them too, this is not the style build I'm going for, I want to build a scale looking "midtravel kit" for something with a dual A-arm front end.

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by rkj__

Out of curiosity, why is there any demand for IFS? Is it simply for "scale" reasons, to better mimic 1:1 vehicles?

I browsed the forum for a couple of days before I posted anything and I saw quite a bit of interest in a scale IFS kit. It seems although it's not going to give you the most flex, its similar to the leaf spring trucks id say, just a scale factor.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by jonnywachter

I browsed the forum for a couple of days before I posted anything and I saw quite a bit of interest in a scale IFS kit. It seems although it's not going to give you the most flex, its similar to the leaf spring trucks id say, just a scale factor.

correct, and some of us aren't incredibly worried about having mega flex, but more of a trail truck vibe. Me in particular, I would be looking for a semi trail, but mostly shelf queen Raptor for my office that looked scale. I'm a Ford/Lincoln Sales Manager.

[jonnywachter]

Some inspiration I have looked at.

[whitrzac]

Front wheels are still attached. Not scale

[RadioFlyer]

Originally Posted by jonnywachter

...I want to build a scale looking "midtravel kit" for something with a dual A-arm front end.

Along the lines of Tamiya TT01/TT02 geometry and without a C-hub?

[jonnywachter]

The idea I had was to use a pumpkin from the after market axles I got and design new tubes to be the right length, I want it to be offset so one will be longer than the other. That’s all fine and easy.

[jonnywachter]

Got the diff pumpkin drawn up and roughly mocked up in the chassis tonight, I didn't have much time to work on it but I wanted to get something done. looks like it will fit nicely, the driveshafts on the other hand may be a little short. Once I get the drive shafts in, ill be able to mock those up and we will have a better idea. I'm also looking into getting the SSD transmission/ transfer case to use with this and be ready for the second stage of the build which will be the interior and engine bay.

[RadioFlyer]

Like a Zook Sidekick front setup. Offset solid axle center with equal length CV axles.

[jonnywachter]

Yea basically, similar to how my 4x4 Durango is also, the diff is on the other side, but oh well.

[jonnywachter]

On another note, I want to put a set of flares on the Durango body, I was going to design my own but before I decide to tackle that, does anyone know of some good flares for a smaller 1.9 tire that are only 15mm wide? So far I have bought two sets and they are way bigger than I expected. I found some "injora" rubber Cherokee flares that look nice, they state they are 317mm.. I have no clue what that measurement refers to though.

[lonleycreeper]

Those appear to be Axial Bfg's so you are looking at a 4.65" tire covered by the flares...

[MAC FAB]

What are you planning on using for a front diff? Will the upper be an A arm, J arm or camber link? Axles may also be a hard find item, perhaps something plunging with cvds to fit the "scale" part (you only get about 30-35 degrees out of the cvds)? FYI, you only get about 30 degrees or less out of most rod ends, looking at you lower arm and pulling 30 mm travel out of it. Loving the idea you have here, look forward to seeing you pull it off. Lifted sky high, this rig looks sick!!! Keep'r rolling.

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

What are you planning on using for a front diff? Will the upper be an A arm, J arm or camber link? Axles may also be a hard find item, perhaps something plunging with cvds to fit the "scale" part (you only get about 30-35 degrees out of the cvds)? FYI, you only get about 30 degrees or less out of most rod ends, looking at you lower arm and pulling 30 mm travel out of it. Loving the idea you have here, look forward to seeing you pull it off. Lifted sky high, this rig looks sick!!! Keep'r rolling.

The upper link will be an a-arm. The current plan I'm designing it around the diff pumpkin that I got from a set of aluminum axles off eBay... off brand. If this ends up being a kit, I'll have to redesign around a popular diff that is easily available. I have a set of CVD center drive shafts on their way, I plan on shortening these to be the correct length for the front drive shafts. I hope to only have to custom make a small number of parts in the end, with most of the parts I'm designing in 3D being printed.

Also, with the length of the front arm, and the axial rod ends and balls, the front end has 37mm of travel. Edit: thinking about it now the top arm will be shorter and affect the total travel.

[Brake Weight]

Scroll down and there’s some cheap-Os to possibly use for experimenting.


https://m.banggood.com/search/cvd%20drive%20shaft.html

[jonnywachter]

OK, I've done some searching and it seems like the losi rock rey front axle would have a really good chance of being able to work, unfortunately, they are pretty expensive at $50 an axle. what other independent front ends are out there with a similar telescoping front axle.

[TheLetterJ]

Slash 4x4

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Slash 4x4

You sir, Delivered.

[Steve g]

Yeah you can cut down the plastic slash rear axles. They are like 10 bucks each. Can find take offs for 15 a set, but they go fast

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[MAC FAB]

How long do the axles need to be, joint to joint? Traxxas is cheap, maybe Bandit sized cvds will work. Slash 4x fronts will be a no go, inner bearing is too big for 1.9s. U-joint "offset" will now determine your pivot locations, spindle and chassis, making you have to edit your drawing, no big deal there other than you may end up too wide for your body. Its easier to engineer that way with axles in your hands. Another cool thing is being able to change the arc of the upper arm to change camber if you need to.