1st gen Durango IFS TRUE SCALE (you're going to want to see this)

[MAC FAB]

I broke somewhere around 10 axles on my Bomber before coming up with the current program. At least you are 1.9s, less strain on the driveline. How you getting from the r/p to the axle stubs? Something already available with cups and a long shaft?

[jonnywachter]

yes and no, the tt02 drive cups I've got are the closest things I have found so far. They have a round 5mm shaft with flat spots on both sides, the R/P needs a 4.3mm flat spotted shaft so I'm going to turn the set I have down on my lathe.

[jonnywachter]

What do you guys think of the new spindle and top arm design?





Also i'm thinking about changing the steering again

[MAC FAB]

Upper joint is off axis with the lower. You just lost your steering angle, if the axles would allow for it, right? If not, give me the part number for them so my Bomber can get an upgrade over Traxxas rod ends.

[Nabil]

Yeah max steering is now equal to the deflection of the rod end. That’s not going to be very good

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

Upper joint is off axis with the lower. You just lost your steering angle, if the axles would allow for it, right? If not, give me the part number for them so my Bomber can get an upgrade over Traxxas rod ends.

Originally Posted by Nabil

Yeah max steering is now equal to the deflection of the rod end. That’s not going to be very good

Its supposed to be off axis. Also, I have a theory that the rod end will be able to swivel in the spindle allowing the steering to still have the max angle the CVD will allow.

[MAC FAB]

Swivel in the spindle? Won't that jack the caster up or be the first part to wear out, especially being a 3D printed part?

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

Swivel in the spindle? Won't that jack the caster up or be the first part to wear out, especially being a 3D printed part?

The SLS nylon is pretty wear resistant, it's hard to even sand it down. The caster wouldn't be affected because its just pivoting in the same axis as the ball. IF we say the rod end is fixed and doesn't move then, there are two options here either more travel or more steering angle. I think more travel is better than steering angle, considering this is built for a scale look and not performance.

[MAC FAB]

How do finished SLS pieces look? Do they print fairly smooth or does it take the acetone vapor bath or evercoat to smoothen them out?

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

How do finished SLS pieces look? Do they print fairly smooth or does it take the acetone vapor bath or evercoat to smoothen them out?

They are very smooth, if you have curved surfaces you will see the stepping of the layers, but the layers themselves are quite thin. They also hold a tolerance of 0.0015" which is really nice for repeatability.

[MAC FAB]

Wow, very impressive, using how large of a filament? Do you print your own or farm out to something like Shapeways? Also, is the SLS a hard material or something more like a RPM flexible product?

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

Wow, very impressive, using how large of a filament? Do you print your own or farm out to something like Shapeways? Also, is the SLS a hard material or something more like a RPM flexible product?

Id use Shapeways or a similar company that has an SLS printer. Up until a couple months ago, SLS printers were in the 100k price range but there's a new one out for around 10k. It's becoming a cost-effective way to build complicated parts for small production runs. It's not extruded, the parts are sintered with a laser one layer at a time ie: machine lays down a 0.0015" layer of powdered material, then the laser sinters it, so on and so on until the part is finished. The unused material becomes the support material so you don't have to use any support material in the process if that makes sense. The parts can withstand up to 325F and have a tensile strength of almost 7000 psi.

"Typical applications of the material are fully functional parts with high-end finish right from the process, which easily withstand high mechanical and thermal load."

data sheet:
https://www.shapeways.com/rrstatic/m...strongflex.pdf

[CM9000]

I use shapeways for all of my printing needs. even brass.

I am a little curious as to why you didn't design something to use a twinhammer knuckle? you would get a few more mm of a arm clearance to the ground.

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by CM9000

I use shapeways for all of my printing needs. even brass.

I am a little curious as to why you didn't design something to use a twinhammer knuckle? you would get a few more mm of a arm clearance to the ground.

The Twin hammer knuckle isn't really the scale look I'm going for. It looks really good though. Most 1:1 trucks have a knuckle with ball joints similar to my design.

[jonnywachter]

Servo mount done (almost)
Skid plate mounts done.
Steering finalized.
rear bracing, there. (may change it)

[CM9000]

Gotcha. Full scale apearence. What trans do you plan on running?

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by CM9000

Gotcha. Full scale apearence. What trans do you plan on running?

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

Yes, that's been the goal from the beginning. There are much better IFS rigs out there that will out perform this no matter how well I make it. Its always been an appearance-first goal. I have the SSD trans, the Bracket is modeled into the sub-frame so it will bolt right up.

[jonnywachter]

I ordered some Xtra speed aluminum rod ends and they have just a little more throw which is great, but they are also a lot shorter and smaller diameter. The problem is they are way better for this application but they are not an axial part and the parts are designed around these rod ends. The specific holes they fit in, the depth of the holes, most of the components have to change to make these work, but it works better.

[SSD]

Aluminm rod ends usually have very sloppy balls

[jonnywachter]

Originally Posted by SSD

Aluminm rod ends usually have very sloppy balls

The rod ends I got are not the most precise but id take the tiny bit of slop over the soft, short angle axial ends, At this point with recent comments in the thread I think ill design it the way I want and go forward with the aluminum ends.