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Thread: Caught the Bug (Scorcher Build)

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Old 03-08-2019, 08:21 PM   #41
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Default Re: Caught the Bug (Scorcher Build)

Looks good! Magnets work well for body mounting just make sure they're strong enough so that the body doesn't pop off in a rollover. Just picked up some PETG filament today so I hope to play around with it and see how it prints. What printer and slicer are you using? I'm hoping to make some similar sliders to yours.
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Old 03-09-2019, 10:55 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Tossedman View Post
Looks good! Magnets work well for body mounting just make sure they're strong enough so that the body doesn't pop off in a rollover. Just picked up some PETG filament today so I hope to play around with it and see how it prints. What printer and slicer are you using? I'm hoping to make some similar sliders to yours.
I think these should hold the body on fine, I've used these magnets before for my CMAX Land Cruiser and they are pretty powerful. Here's a link to the magnets https://totalelement.com/products/1-...ts-n48-20-pack

I've been really pleased with the PETG as a material it seems nice and strong. Its harder to get good prints than with PLA but not by much. I'm still using the default settings that Slic3r PE has for PETG.

I'm using a Prusa I3 MK3 and Slic3r prusa edition.

I'd be happy to share what I've come up with for the sliders, measurements or the file just let me know.

I worked up some side mirrors last night, the included mirrors are a bit ugly and will likely break on the first roll so the idea was to make a lower profile mirror with a strong base.





Heres the included mirror, I didnt want to push it in and have it snap in place so its sticking out an extra 8 mm.


Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-09-2019 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 03-09-2019, 01:48 PM   #43
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Default Re: Caught the Bug (Scorcher Build)

Thanks man, I'd love to see the STL for your sliders. Might fit mine or I could modify it to fit. Mirrors look great as well. Good job there. I've been pondering making something like this for mirrors but it's still just random thoughts in my head.




Or spring loaded... But then I'd need a roll cage...

Last edited by Tossedman; 03-09-2019 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:24 PM   #44
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This build is coming along great, I definitely like the new mirrors you made
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:34 PM   #45
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I'm curious on how well those magnets really worked. How hard do you have to pull to get the body off?
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:13 PM   #46
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I'm curious on how well those magnets really worked. How hard do you have to pull to get the body off?
I might be able to shoot a quick video of that though it will be my older CMAX build. I still need to figure out a jig or clamp to help me hold everything in place while I glue the last magnets in for the Bug.

But just to describe it I cant just pull the body loose with one hand, what I'll do is put my thumbs on the front bumper and fingers inside the front fenders and I have to force them apart. When the front pops loose and I pull up on it the rear will push against the rear bumper and pop loose. Without the leverage of pushing against the front bumper it would be tough to pull loose. I think that body has only popped loose once when I had no rock sliders and I landed the door sill on a big rock which pried the body loose.

Also there are various strengths of neodymium magnets so that plays an important role. I'm using N48 strength, they range from N35 up to N52 (N52 being the strongest)

I also used the GCM trick of placing a body post in the middle of each of the ring magnets, it extends up into the other magnets on the body side. This helps on impacts, otherwise pushing the magnets apart (side to side/back and forth) is a lot easier.

EDIT: Here's a GCM Racing Video explaining the magnet mounting method I'm using.


Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-12-2019 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:42 PM   #47
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Default Re: Caught the Bug (Scorcher Build)

I got all of the magnets glued in place. My side mount to the body is working well, I thought it might just break loose but it's working well.







I started painting a number of different colors as I have plans to sand though and weather the body, not super weathered but a bit.

I actually like the orange a lot


Nato Brown


Light coat of Pearl yellow over the brown, gives off that 70's heavy metallic flake vibe


Another coat


I'm not going for fully coverage on the initial colors just some coverage. after all these colors will only be exposed a tiny bit when sanded through.
The last color before the final color will be a matte white to get a nice even base/starting point.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-17-2019 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 03:45 PM   #48
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Like those magnet mounts. What kind of glue did you glue them to the body with? I'm still debating colour for mine. All I know is it will include rust. Yours is off to a good start.

Last edited by Tossedman; 01-01-2020 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:06 PM   #49
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Like those magnet mounts. What kind of glue did you glue them to the body with? I'm still debating colour for mine. All I know is it will include rust. Your's is off to a good start.
Thanks, I used E6000 to glue on the mounts.

I ended up messing up the paint as I was rushing. I had a thick coat on the exterior and decided to flip it upside down to paint the inside. I set it on a wrinkled piece of paper and the ridges left little indents in the roof since it was fairly thick and not fully cured.
I also found out another sort of mistake when sanding the roof, the final colors I painted were brown and yellow and while they dont look like another color of paint they look more like rust which works I guess.

So after plenty of waiting for the paint to dry and lots of sanding I'm back to where I left off but I have got the final color on it.





I think its a nice color but I wish it were just a bit less of a military paint color.
I might try a clear coat of some sort to see if that will help push it away from the military look.

The color BTW is Tamiya TS-78

you can see that the lid looks a lot less like a military color as its glossy


EDIT: I did some tests with clear on top of the TS-78 and it wasn't doing it for me. Anyway the color has grown on me a bit and seeing it next to the wheels kind of cemented it.

Me likey


Had the chassis upside down as I didnt want the magnets to stick together since I have them masked up right now.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-21-2019 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 05:54 PM   #50
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Alright I made some decent progress on finishing up the Bug over the last week or so. Luckily the Weather cooperated and I was able to finish up the paint.



I always end up spending an obscene amount of time getting the paint perfect even though I plan to scratch it up and weather it and this Bug body was no exception.

Now to scuff it up and expose some of the other layers of paint.

I know this should be fiberglass and shouldnt rust but... shhhhh quiet and no one will know


Getting ready for a wash, I use some tiny little water based paint samples that the hardware store has cheap. Water it down, let it sit and dry up and dab it off to get a nice natural dirty look.



Real rust was applied (its an iron paint with an activator thats used to get it to oxidize) in a few spots. I really like how it made the headlights look, the lenses were also hit with a light dusting of the darker color (Tamiya Nato Black).









Some lexan mirrors were glued onto my 3D printed side view mirrors. It came in square sheets which I cut into little squares, marked the circle and belt sanded to its rough shape and hand sanded to finish.
The E6000 had a reaction to the reflective back of this material which I actually ended up liking so I'll keep them like that.



I designed up a front bumper, the first version ended up being way to big and ugly so I slimmed it down as much as I could and came up with this.


Behind the yellow lenses (which I still need to weather) are 2 m3 screws used to mount it, I thought this would be the best way to hide them. There are also 2 screws on each side going to the chassis rails.


I worked up a rear bumper which ended up way too wide as I was trying to accommodate the side exhaust on the engine, but I think I'll be cutting off the exhaust and rerouting it so I can make a much narrower rear bumper.





Here you can also see the Junkyard Stance rear louvers which have been weathered and rusted.


I decided to stick to the engine I had instead of downloading a much more detailed model for a few dollars. I had already made mounts and messed with fine tuning its placement so decided to stick with it.

Instead of masking up the paint job I spayed the majority silver, then came back to the fan case with a lid full of black paint which I poured on the case and let run around. This worked surprisingly well. I then got an old can of black that was low and sputtering, sprayed it from a distance to get that dirty greasy speckled look. Later on I used some paint pens for coloring in the coil and distributor.





Not trying to flex! just trying to get some light on the side.







I've already got the new narrower rear bumper mostly designed and should be able to print it tonight and have something tomorrow morning to test.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-25-2019 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 06:23 PM   #51
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*Like!*
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Old 03-25-2019, 06:26 PM   #52
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I gotta say I'm "LUViN" this Bug!

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Old 03-25-2019, 07:31 PM   #53
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Pure gold. Love it.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:59 PM   #54
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Looks awesome. What grit did you use to scuff up the body before the dirty wash? I'm thinking about giving this a try.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:24 PM   #55
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You know I wasnt able to check I grabbed some used peices, the emry cloth I use is only marked every 12" or so. I was going for a finer grit like 600 or 400 so thats what I'll assume it was. I also finished it off by going over it with a scotch bright pad which I used on the whole body to get swirl marks.

Its a bit scary at first but once you start going at it you will start to get more comfortable with weathering the paint. Even if you sand too heavily and expose the ABS plastic its still fine. I will also stab it with pliers and sharp drivers to get rock chips.

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-25-2019 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:15 PM   #56
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Frigg'n Awesome ...Great Job
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Old 03-26-2019, 01:12 PM   #57
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Very cool!
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Old 03-26-2019, 01:50 PM   #58
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Thanks for the kind words all!

Heres the new smaller rear bumper next to the original







I chopped off the muffler after the merge collector In order to fit this narrower bumper



I'll be playing around with how I'm going to rout the exhaust, heres a few ideas.


this one is just set on top with the wrong placement, I'm just mocking it up.


Anyway I think the size is much better on this one





It just hit me this morning, I'm almost ready to call this done! Just exhaust to go and maybe inner fenders and a driver.
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:17 PM   #59
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I think you’ve nailed the departure angle.
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:49 PM   #60
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I think you’ve nailed the departure angle.
Yeah that and the awesome approach angle are what I'm really looking forward to, it should be really helpful having all that clearance on a small tire rig.

I made 1 more version of the rear bumper that's 4mm shorter in length and the top bar now sits 13mm higher. I also made the radius of the curves on the top piece larger.





New one


VS last version


I think this new version is a keeper, last one was too low or just looked off and the bigger radius curves help the look a lot too.

I weathered the fog lights that are just covers to hide some m3's. I lightly sprayed a sputtering can of black spray paint on the inside and hit it with a light dusting of the Tamiya nato black, then on the outside Tamiya matte clear.



I just set them on top, didn't want to snap them in and have to pry them loose.


Picture above shows the bumpers texture better, but I just lightly sanded the front bumper with 220 grit and painted it in the nato black

I'm really pleased with the finish I've gotten by using the variable layer height (layer editing) in Slic3r PE, it basically gives a finer detail and greatly reduces the amount of sanding required. I hardly had to sand at all for the front bumper but that was all the top side of that print which is almost always nicer looking.

Prusa's Youtube channel has a good video on variable layer height that shows the difference between using it or not and how its used:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ3JC_fYgjo

Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-27-2019 at 03:56 PM.
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