Crawlspace GameChangers and Contenders Only

[Topher Builds]

This thread is a place to share your crawlspace builds. Not everyone wants to start their own thread but feel free to share your rigs here or post up any questions about your builds.

[Robotboy]

I'll share My GC4.2 Portaled Nukiser thread: Robotboy's Game Changer 4.2 Portaled

Had fun building this and it does great work! A couple things were changed.
New Specs:
Crawlspace Game Changer 4.2 Stage 2 Chassis kit.
Axial Jeep Nukiser Body.
Xtra Speed Aluminum AR44 housings, China portals, DSM bearings
and STRC shock/link mounts. Boom racing OD gears front.
Holmes Trail Master Pro 1700kv BL motor.
Castle Mamba Micro X WP ESC.
87T steel spur & 14T pinion.
Annimos 25kg WP servo.
CC BEC.
HPI Venture scale shocks.
KYX steel driveshafts.
Boom Racing steel transfer shaft.
In The Works bent steel lower links.
PL 1.9 Hyrax G8 4.73" tires.
China Aluminum Beadlocks.
Crawlspace electronics trays.
KYX Steel front stinger w/ Powerhobby Winch.
KYX RX box.
Homebrew winch controller on channel 3.
Wheelbase is sitting at 12.5".

[bbeaty]

Recently finished up a Gamechanger 4.2 stage 3 build in G-10 using SCX10-2 based axles.

Took it out last weekend for its maiden run / first comp and got second place.

So far I’m really impressed by the performance but still need to work on some shock / spring tuning as it is currently a bit too soft.

Axles:
•SSD Pro 44 front and rear
•SSD Heavy steering knuckles
•SSD Universals
•SSD Aluminum C hubs
•Axial Wildbore driveshafts

Shocks:
•Traxxas big bore with Dlux spring cups and mini-t springs

Steering Servo:
•Power HD Storm 2

Servo Winch:
•From Ebay seller – RC Issues. Seller would not give much info on the servo, but it seems to be built from one of the 35kg waterproof servo variants. Plenty of power to deadlift the entire truck.

Esc:
•Holmes Br-Mini with “smashed” Castle BEC set at 7.4 v.

Motor:
•Tekin 5 slot – 16 turn

Tires:
•Proline Hyrax with Proline 2 stage foam

Wheels:
•Ebay 1.9 aluminum bead locks with SSD scale bead lock hardware

Crawlspace:
•Side electronics trays

Battery:
•Tattu 3s 850 mAH lipo

Body:
•J Concepts Creep

Scratch Built Items:
•Steel front and rear bumpers (3/16 round bar with 1/8 mounting plates)
•Nylon front and rear body mounts with Axial body posts
•Battery tray (1/8 delrin)

Notes from the build:
The chassis kit came with both a G-10 and steel Panhard mount. I decided to use the steel Panhard mount for strength but even with the Panhard bolt very tight it had a little forward to back play. I machined a small piece of nylon to utilize an unused hole in the Panhard and also tie to the bolt for the servo plate. So far so good and this additional support has removed all the Panhard slop.

[Topher Builds]

Nice! Both of those are real solid builds.

Here’s my GC4.2. Getting a new esc soon (micro x instead of mamba x).

Ssd diamond axles
Ssd brass knuckles
Brass chubs
Mamba (micro soon) x
HH puller pro stubby 2200kv (pic with motor is old)
Protek 150t servo
Ssd shocks
Incision driveshafts
Hardcore Rc 12.3” links

[Munchagepeople]

Does anyone have the bearing size(s) for the transmission and t-case? I've just bought the flipped housings but don't want to remove the (solidly installed) bearings from my originals... I've asked on FB but no response so far.

Edit:

From an older post on FB it looks like:

5x10x4 flanged (x2 motor plate)
5x10x4 (x2 idler shaft in t-case)
5x11x4 (x6 - 2x in transmission, 4x in t-case)

[Munchagepeople]

Kinda sparse on pictures, but this is how my GC4.2 progressed.

I started off with a G10 stage3 kit, added 3-piece AR44 axles setup for a 12.5"-ish WB, 10.2 shocks, amazon-special servo & axe system:

I did then move to SSD pro44 diamond axles and TRX4 shocks, then got bored and moved onto:

Capra axles (treal front housing here), with modded 80mm big bores to offset some of the CoG gain from the portals:

Unfortunately, this was rather dicey when trying to use AMS, with the top shaft interfering with the servo pretty drastically:

I then moved to a CMS setup with TGH's panhard mount and a basic plastic housing. This works fine, but the width (even with TGH HO wheels) was too much for my local course, so I decided I'd narrow the car up and play with some 10.3 axles. Issue here is the offset is not really suitable for use with the driver-side motor mount - the front drive shaft just smushes into the motor plate

Of course, this meant I needed the reverse transmission & t-case set, which gives much nicer clearances (note I haven't done the flipped t-case in this pic, so the pinion angles on the t-case are... not great)

Unfortunately there's still 2 problems here -- the front upper link has very little clearance with the motor plate in the way - I had to go with a bent link I had lying around which _just_ clears enough at least for now. Second, the standard panhard mount is too close to the centerline of the truck and pushes the axle too far over on the passenger side (I could have shortened the panhard link, but I wanted to keep the length as close to the drag rod as possible), I ended up using the GSpeed univeral panhard mount, drilling holes in the rails to mount it. That seems to have solved the shifting issue, which is nice.

The last picture also shows the final issue (I hope) that I'm wrestling with -- the top shaft of the transmission interferes with the mounting ears of my HH SHV500v3 servo that I want to use, necessitating some clearancing - with any luck that'll be everything done

[Topher Builds]

Lot of good info in that post! Thanks for sharing all the different axle set ups you’ve ran. This will surely help someone in the future.

[Munchagepeople]

Thanks! Everyone seems to be running some variation of center-pumpkin AR44 with the FMM, so I thought offset axles would be interesting to people.

If anyone is considering running offset axles (10.3 and VP for sure, don't know about TRX4) with the FMM then you really have to grab the flipped transmission case (it was out of stock for a while, I ended up emailing the store and Ikaika put a couple up on the website, I grabbed one, there was still one left) - it seems like a non-starter otherwise given the position of the motor plate and the front drive shaft.

[robobray]

I'm currently collecting parts to start on a Contender build with 10.3 axles under it.