Axial SCX10 "1.5" Defender 90

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Hit it with tan. Needs a light sanding and a few more coats. Need to order some more.

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Originally Posted by Postclanker

I like the desert sand color

I have been struggling with how high mine sits after trying to clear the interior, I notice yours is a bit high also. I don’t want to cut up any of this....



Waiting to see what you can do with yours....

So, adjusted the shocks today as low as I dare incase I want to run bigger tires later.

I dug through parts bin and found some new (jeesh) 80mm shocks (eyelet to eyelet) for the front. After that I just needed to match *read shorten* the rear cantilever arms that connect to axle.

I think it looks pretty good. Now just need to test drive to see how it handles. Still has plenty of travel for trail / rocks. For me anyways.

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So, got windows in, started weathering vehicle. Interiors done. Still need to paint bed; going to do silver and then weather it.

Still waiting on a bunch of scale accessories and parts. Ordered new beadlock wheels and bumpers.

Will keep thread updated.

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See weathering better.

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So, more work on bed. Added "steel" frame that diamond plate attaches to. Will make bolt or rivet details later for how it is connected. The steel parts will be painted tan. Will add rust to the bed later from use.

Also, want to attached a traxis roof rack for Defender 90 suv. Cut it in half for pick up size, and needed to make holes in body to attach it. Unfortunately for me, not a good contour fit so I drilled over sized holes and then glued straws into holes for connector points.

Then filled big holes with putty, and one completely hardened, I will sand and shape it to fit cage mounting points. On the inside of frame I glued styrene to be able to screw cage into and act as a backstop for putty.

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I added metal wire mesh to front grill and top vents.

I also added a pair of traxis metal light guards. Since they did not fit the contour of the front of my Defender, I had to use putty to fill in gaps and blend it. I will touch up tan paint later after all mods are done.

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So, got my Axial Scx10 II rails and chassis mounting plates in just now. I really, really want to run these as an upgrade.

So, I would have to cut the rock slider in the rear by about an inch and a half, not a big deal. It would look great and scale.

The problem arises from the built in receiver box. I like that feature, but to use it I would either need to run these backwards or cut out the floor of interior to fit around this.

Not sure what I want to, would rather run the mounting plates the correct way, but I would have to cut up interior floor. Not a huge deal, but dang if it would not have saved me fab work had these arrived sooner.

Any opinions? Don't ask me why I have a hard on to run these, just do.

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I guess what I'm getting at is, If I ever decide to make this doorless, do not see many, then I would want to keep interior unmolested for scale appearance.

Help...

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So, decided to use the Axial SCX10 II side rails on my unimog build. Since I have upgraded everything to aluminum, I will buy some aluminum rock rail attachment points for my sliders.

So now I can start working on both truck simultaneously while waiting for glue/putty to dry.

Yeah, I have a way forward. Will post more pics as I start up work.

[Postclanker]

I’m liking this

What are you using for putty....filler?

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Originally Posted by Postclanker

I’m liking this

What are you using for putty....filler?

Thank you. I was using car bondo, but a PITA to sand detail on small areas. I have since switched to Tamiya White Putty.

It hardens just as well, easier to shape and sand and does not have a noxious smell like bondo and other fillers.

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Not much done today, finished blending mounting holes.

[Postclanker]

Originally Posted by Downfall

Thank you. I was using car bondo, but a PITA to sand detail on small areas. I have since switched to Tamiya White Putty.

It hardens just as well, easier to shape and sand and does not have a noxious smell like bondo and other fillers.

Thanks Downfall!

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Got bed painted today. Still need to weather it and add rust to bed.



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Ok, roof rack is on, snorkel is attached to body and roof rack.

Completely forgot I bought these tire/wheels a few years ago for this build.

It's coming along now.

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Ok, slow day. I added x4 off road lights on roof bars.

Weathered the bed, still need to add rust.

Put original Axial rock sliders on.

Still waiting on parts, scale accessories, ect.

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So today I set about to figure out how I will mount the body.

I like the idea of Axial scx10 III body mount clip from underside.

Used body posts from original dingo kit and tie rod screw. The D90 body has post built into underside of body, so I attached these together.

The plastic bits are from extra car camera mount. The aluminum is left over from another project. I bought it from a local hobby store.

I used jb weld to attach plastic to aluminum. Can also drill and bolt them together later. Can also paint then black later to blend in.

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Jb weld dry, under hood view.

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Hit it with self etching aluminum primer then some black paint and they disappear.

Need to make rear attachment point now, rear tailgate, rear lights and add scale accessories.

Is it wrong that once I finish this I am thinking of canablizing the frame and rear cantilever system to use on my unimog? I only started this project to learn, now I want to put all of the good parts towards the unimog (daily driver) without spending more money to buy exact or similar parts over again. Plus, space is limited.



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So, I am sure there are better ways, but I decided to hold the rear of body down with a clamp secured by the rear bumper. I could hinge it, but do not want to.

So I made the bracket from scrap hobby aluminum again. Just folded in half, drilled holes, then bent sides down to attach to bumper pegs.

Will paint it black later.

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