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Old 03-25-2021, 09:08 PM   #1
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Default Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Going in for some major oral surgery soon, and took a week off to recover. Picked up a little something to fiddle with while I'm on a pain killer-fueled staycation.



List of parts includes:

Axial Wildboar driveshafts (I seriously put these on everything, best shafts out there for a brushed rig in my opinion)
GMADE SR02 bare metal beadlocks
RC4WD Tough Armor SCX10II front bumper
RC4WD Warn winch and controller
Hot Racing shackles
Fast Eddy bearings because apparently this comes with a ton of bushings
Hobbywing 1080
Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster Sport 550 21T
eBay resin copy of Tamiya Bruiser interior
RC4WD Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TTC
eBay light kit
PowerHD 23kg servo
Spektrum SR315 Rx
SSD aluminum SCX10II front bumper mount
Carisma inner fenders
Carisma drop bed insert

Last edited by addiemonster; 03-25-2021 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 03-25-2021, 09:25 PM   #2
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Default Re: Toyopet/Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Figured it was a good idea to get the precision cutting and hacking done ahead of time, so I'm not trying to handle an Xacto blade or a Dremel with a cutoff wheel while I'm on painkillers.

Bruiser interior fits like a dream, all I had to do was cut a 8mm sliver out of the floor and use the sliver to glue it back together. Fits like it was made for it, even the little ears on the side fit perfectly into the cab contour!









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Old 03-26-2021, 09:31 AM   #3
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

I've always liked the Carisma Toyota Stout body - looking forward to seeing the rest of the build progress!
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Old 03-26-2021, 04:13 PM   #4
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Good luck with the surgery and good luck with the kit to.
Look forward to seeing your progress.
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Old 03-26-2021, 06:09 PM   #5
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Crazy how well that interior fits the stout cab.

Looking forward to seeing this come together. Not much coverage for the Carisma scalers.
Didn't even realize Carisma offered inner fenders for this.
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Old 03-26-2021, 06:33 PM   #6
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Quote:
Originally Posted by durok View Post
I've always liked the Carisma Toyota Stout body - looking forward to seeing the rest of the build progress!
Same here. I know the SCA-1E doesn't really get a lot of respect when you put it up against the big names like Axial or others, but I don't compete, and I like some of the design choices in the chassis. A million cool points for using an obscure Toyota as well. I know Toyotas are "overdone" in RC crawlers, but I'm a Toyota fan and I had to have a Stout in my fleet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimK View Post
Good luck with the surgery and good luck with the kit to.
Look forward to seeing your progress.
Thanks for the well wishes! I'm going in to have pretty much all of my teeth removed in preparation for dentures. It's been a long, expensive road (over 15 years) and I'm finally nearing the end. My surgery is on the seventh of April, and I'm really nervous!

I'll probably only update this one more time before then, when I cut and fit the inner fenders and drop bed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by meatmonkey View Post
Crazy how well that interior fits the stout cab.

Looking forward to seeing this come together. Not much coverage for the Carisma scalers.
Didn't even realize Carisma offered inner fenders for this.
They're kinda hard to find from US sellers, but SierraHobbies on eBay has them from time to time. It seems I bought the last of their stock on both the drop bed and inner fenders.

You can also find them on Carisma's website.
https://carisma-shop.com/products/sc...c5849d22&_ss=r

https://carisma-shop.com/products/sc...4bddc39a&_ss=r
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:04 AM   #7
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

I was supposed to be saving this kit for my time off while I recover from surgery. I had a rough weekend shift and so I spent Sunday building it to unwind.



Still waiting on the tires, and there's still a long way to go, including body details, paint, weathering, and inner fender installation, but I'll share some of my thoughts on the kit as a whole. I'll start with the bad.

For one, even at this price point, bushings in a crawler kit are just unacceptable. The cost can't seriously be that much of an offset. Pick up a set of Fast Eddy bearings, don't waste your time and effort installing the bushings - you'll only want to change them out later, anyway.

I've built a lot of RC kits in my time. This one went together really well for the most part, but - and I'm going to assume this was a manufacturing problem because I don't hear anyone else complaining about this issue - the transmission assembly for this rig was an absolute mess. Screw holes in one half of the transmission case don't line up with the other half. Threads in the motor plate were cross-threaded from the factory. As a result, my transmission case doesn't seal properly, and is all manner of jank. Possible manufacturing issues aside, the materials seem adequate and I'm sure it works just fine if you get one that wasn't blindly passed through quality control. Invest in spur gears, because I don't trust those teeny tiny teeth to hold up to much of anything. Though again, I've never seen a complaint about the transmission in this thing.

Now onto what I liked about it.

The plastic. It's pretty flexible, but also looks and feels like it might be fiber reinforced. I trust it'll hold up well.

The big bore shocks are super plush. You have to supply your own shock oil, and I went with TLR 40wt. They go together quickly and easily, and reminded me of how you build Tamiya kit shocks.

Compatibility is awesome. I've got an SCX10II front bumper mount, which lines right up and bolts right in. The stock metal driveshafts come pre-assembled, but they look like cheap knock-off MIPs from ten years ago. I don't like them, so I bolted in some Wildboars. Going back to the transmission issue I had, mercifully an SCX10/II center skid bolts right in, though I did have to re-drill maybe two holes I think to center them with the frame rails. Also, the lower link mounts had to be widened juuuuust a bit with my Dremel. All this allowed me to bolt in my old Honcho's 3-gear with Incision steel gears. Transmission problem averted with spare parts.

But most of all, that Toyota Stout body shell.

Last edited by addiemonster; 03-31-2021 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 04-06-2021, 10:42 PM   #8
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Paint finally came in! Decided to abandon the giant tire idea and went instead with some 4.19 G8 Swampers. Love these tires, and I really feel like they suit this build.

I achieved the dents by heating up the body with a lighter and pressing random tools and objects into it. Next update will include weathering and detailing.







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Old 04-07-2021, 06:31 AM   #9
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

That's a cool looking body! I don't believe I've ever seen one before!

Great job on the paint and dents. Look great! Can't wait to see what you do with the weathering!

Wheel and tire size fits the look perfectly!

Hoping all goes well with the surgery today! Dental surgery is never fun!
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Old 04-07-2021, 12:37 PM   #10
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

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Originally Posted by B-MOW71 View Post
That's a cool looking body! I don't believe I've ever seen one before!

Great job on the paint and dents. Look great! Can't wait to see what you do with the weathering!

Wheel and tire size fits the look perfectly!

Hoping all goes well with the surgery today! Dental surgery is never fun!
Thanks for the love! Sadly, due to complications with my insurance provider, the day of my surgery is being moved. No idea when. Gotta love the American healthcare system.

That said, I took the day off anyway. Not wanting to waste it, I set to doing a "grimewash" on the Stout. First, I lightly wet sanded it in the shower with a fine grit like 1000 or so, constantly keeping the warm water flowing over the body shell and the sandpaper. For places where I sanded through to bare lexan, I will be touching up later during the "rust" process. I also lightly sanded my decals to "sun damage" them before applying them to the body.

This is the same method I use when I do Gundam model kits (or gunpla, as some here may know them) and it always brings the finish of the model up by about 300% in my eyes. I've never applied it to unprotected polycarbonate paint before (this body is painted on both the inside and outside) so this was pretty scary. I had no idea if it would react badly and peel or otherwise ruin the paint.

Turns out it was just fine!

So here's the method. Get your hands on some cheap oil paints, Michael's is my usual go-to as their Artist's Loft brand is a good bang for buck and has never done me wrong. While you're there, get some refined linseed oil. I prefer this to enamel thinner when making oil washes. Some people use both, but I think it's overkill and just adds another chemical into the mix that could react poorly with your paintjob.



To get a grimy and nasty look, I mix a couple squirts of Burnt Umber and Black (any black will do) in about a 2 umber to 1 black ratio. Just using black looks unnatural to me, and too "cartoony". Real grime is hardly ever just black, even caked-on oil. Next, tip in a little of the linseed oil. Tip in a little, then stir. Keep going until your paint is just a tiny bit runny. The runnier you make it, the longer it will take to dry and the messier it will get while you're handling the body shell. The linseed oil is already the vehicle in the oil paint, so it acts just like enamel thinner does in enamel paint. You're just thinning it with more oil.

Now comes the scary part. Take a flat, cheap, somewhat wide brush and just paint the whole damn thing. Yes, even the windows. If you scored cracks into the glass, this will help them stand out, as well as simulate built-up grime accumulating in the window seals.

You can coat the whole shell in one go (JUST THE OUTSIDE!) or take your time with it and do one side or panel or whathaveyou at a time so it'll be less messy. That's how I do it, and makes cleanup and handling so much easier, with less chance to get oil fingerprints on your shell. Really take your time, as this stuff takes AGES to dry, depending on your ratio of linseed oil it could be a week! So don't rush, and slather and wipe as many times as you feel necessary to get the look you're after.

You can use any paper towels you have handy, I haven't found that they leave any "paper debris" like little fibers or anything behind.

If I can offer any advice in this step, wipe horizontally along the body shell down the sides (where the doors are) initially to remove the bulk of the wash, then when you're doing your more careful wipes, wipe vertically, as rain will leave vertical streaks where it runs down and unsettles/carries/deposits grime as it evaporates. On flatter surfaces (hood, roof) wipe in circles for a more even look.

I went heavier with how much I left in the bed, as I figure it will see the most abuse as a utility vehicle. That, and it takes forever to wipe it out of all the crevices. Also I don't mind a little too much being left in the corners as this bed will be packed with scale items that will hide my laziness. I hope.

Here's the result of about an hour of work:















Next up is rust... in like a week when this all dries.

Between now and then I'll likely be updating with interior progress and some close-up shots of the finished chassis. Thanks for checking out yet another beat to hell old Toyota from my fleet!

Last edited by addiemonster; 04-07-2021 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:28 PM   #11
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Excellent tutorial - Much appreciated, it's always great to read new methods, as there seem to be several when it comes to artificially aging RC vehicles.

The color combo is PERFECT!

(sucks about your surgery, I too have have stories that I'd rather not tell regarding dental issues...)
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:56 PM   #12
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Quote:
Originally Posted by durok View Post
Excellent tutorial - Much appreciated, it's always great to read new methods, as there seem to be several when it comes to artificially aging RC vehicles.

The color combo is PERFECT!

(sucks about your surgery, I too have have stories that I'd rather not tell regarding dental issues...)
Glad you could get something useful out of one of my long-winded info dumps!

Thanks for the compliments. The paint is based loosely off of this real world example I found online:



It's pretty hard to find decent images of the single headlight models, it seems.
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Old 04-07-2021, 06:22 PM   #13
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Looks good. The Marlin Crawler sticker is kind of fitting in a sense.
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Old 04-08-2021, 08:40 AM   #14
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Enjoying your thread, thanks for sharing it. Bummer about the craptastic trans, excellent solution however. Nice work on the weathering, looks excellent.
I picked up one of these clear Coyote bodies when they hit the market a while back. Just love the look of it, but it got buried in my small pile of bodies. Feeling the itch to paint...
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Old 04-09-2021, 02:44 AM   #15
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Nice to see some feedback on the SCA-1E, it's been on my short list for awhile and your summary about meets my expectations. Truck looks great and good for you for avoiding the obvious Guinness joke themes.
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Old 04-12-2021, 08:37 PM   #16
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

Finally finished the body! This is probably the proudest I've ever been on how a paintjob turned out. Obviously outdoor shots would be better but sadly it's 10:30 at night right now.























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Old 04-13-2021, 09:02 PM   #17
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Default Re: Toyota Stout (Carisma SCA-1E)

That body turned out amazing! Great work on it, I need a tetanus shot just looking at it lol
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