GSpeed V3 Build/help

[twade984]

Looks great, terrain looks good as well


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[Cadakrawler]

Good looking build��

[ALPINEX]

Thanks!

Got the truck out for a good couple of local crawls here at the lake and started working on my tuning. Mostly the mamba micro so far and throttle exponential.

I also ran one day with my tires non vented, then went to the same place with them vented the next day. Now I’m having a real issue with the front end unloading. Currently I’m running soft springs and 30wt oil, but it’s in the mid 70’s here so I’ve ordered 40, 50, 60 and 70 wt oils, as well as the spring assortment from dravtech. I also have the proline 2 stage foams on the way. Hopefully I can get this thing behaving a little bit better soon.

I’ve got a cold buster body on the way, hopefully to pinch and dovetail, although I fully expect disastrous results there.

I’ve also decided to try out a winch, so I have the nsdrc micro and the rock jock mount coming, with a Gila Monster hook.






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[Bananaclip]

I’d try the heavier oil if it’s unloading quickly. Say 45-50wt. With the lexan body I’d try to stay with the soft spring.


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[Bananaclip]

Just thought of something else……… is there still tension on the spring when the shock is fully open/ extended? Extend the shock and see if the spring just moves freely or worse moves up and down freely. If so run an internal limiting nylon type spacer under the piston. You can also add tension/ preload with the supplied o-ring.


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[ALPINEX]

Thanks you.

When I built the shocks I just built them according to whatever YouTube vid I was watching at the time. So there’s an O-ring on both ends of the spring. Fully extended the spring is not moving freely and still has a bit of preload.

Maybe I should take one out of the fronts?




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[Bananaclip]

You could start with removing the rings all together but check for spring slop/ free play. You don’t want the spring to not carry compression ever imo. I can’t tell from your pics but do you run spacers at the top and bottom mount locations of the shock? I always run at minimum a 2mm spacer at the upper mount point and say a 4-6mm at the lower mount. I’ve honestly done this to every build I’ve ever done. The spacers put those Drav’s at the perfect angle to work properly and keeps the ride super plush. Just a tip if you already don’t do this.


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[ALPINEX]

That’s a fantastic tip! I’m running a 2-3mm spacer up top, just so that the shock won’t hit the chassis, but nothing on the bottom so the shocks are vertical.

I’ll play around with adding a lower spacer and removing the orings tonight!

I also wondered about the limiting spacers dravtech sells, what’s to stop me from using these aluminum knk spacers as limiters in the same way? Other than the difference in shaft diameter and hole diameter on the knk’s?

Thanks,

Cody


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[Bananaclip]

Cody we might have you sorted. Add the lower spacer to get the bottom out slightly from the upper. Your shocks will be smooth. I wouldn’t use an aluminum spacer under the piston. I would 100% find a nice delrin or nylon type spacer.



This pic was taken to show the body mounting but if you look at the front you can see the angles I used on this build.

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[ALPINEX]

Ok so I got the shock oil changed out. After a ton of reading on the Gspeed Facebook I settled on 50wt front and 60wt in the rear. Which seems counterintuitive because most of the weight is up front, but there’s only one way to learn I suppose.

I also looked at adding spacers to the shocks, but the c-Hubs interfere in the front. I think I’d have to add a link riser or something in order to do that? Is it worth just doing the rears?


After I finished the shocks, my 2 stage foams arrived, so rather than do the intelligent thing and test the truck without changing the foams, I changed them anyway.

Truck seemed much better in a front yard test session, but I’ll have to get a few packs through it to break in the foams and get it to a familiar spot to really get it tested. It did climb a line much steeper than it’s been able to before, and the hopping is much better. It was also much more predictable when putting one wheel up on a curb and walking it.

Thanks,

Cody


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[Bananaclip]

Run longer hardware and mount them to the outside of the lower suspension mount.


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[ALPINEX]

Easy enough! I’ll get it done after I do some testing. I’ve got to work on being more methodical and test one thing at a time.

I got my winch installed. Had to make a trip to Best Buy for a windows laptop, but after that, I got the Noble Nb4 updated and programmed.

My Gila hook from Rc Fab Tabs hasn’t showed yet, so I spent a half hour or so in the garage and whipped up a quick imitation out of stainless until the real deal arrives. I just needed one for some testing, hopefully tomorrow!





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[Bananaclip]

Looks good brother. I think you’ll enjoy the added benefits from lowering the lower shock mount. Might have to add a rubber bump stop on the outside shaft to get the compression where it’s perfect but it’s worth it.


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[ALPINEX]

Getting there!

Made a couple of small changes to the truck this morning. Lowered and spaced the shocks, and I dropped from a 12t pinion to a 10t. I've had a little cogging with the Riot/Mamba Micro, been doing some research and I think I'm just expecting too much. I realized I really like the ultra low speed control, and I've not yet needed big wheel speed. I also changed my startup power on the ESC from low (not sure where I got that) to high.

There's still some cogging when trying to go too slow (again I think I'm expecting too much), but it's much better now, and the lower gearing really seemed to help. It was a bit cooler today, so I could definitely tell the thicker shock fluid, but the truck is almost 1/4" lower now with the mount change, so sidehills still felt really good!