❍❍❍ Axial SCX10.1: Toyota Land Cruiser 80-Series ❍❍❍

[justinart24]

For the longest time I have always joked about making an open diff SCX10.1, so here we go! This build is going to be a street type build, no metal bumpers and more of a mall crawler... minus the beadlocks.

*I will update the build parts sheet as I go....

Chassis: Axial SCX10.1
Axles: Axial SCX10.1
CVDs: Vanquish Products
C Hubs: SSD RC
Knuckles: Axial (non Ankerman)
Diff: GCM/Bowhouse
Shocks: Axial SCX10.1
Transmission: GCM
Transfer case: GCM
Drivelines: MIP
Beadlocks: Vanquish Products
Tires: Proline
ESC: Castle Creations
Motor: Brood
Servo: Hitec

[justinart24]

I got the body off of eBay, buy at your own risk.


I have had this GCM setup for years now and I can't wait to finally use it.

[justinart24]

I found some old Axial non anchorman knuckles, trying to keep the track width narrow.


Had some VP bushings laying around.


These SSD RC C Hubs are a lot better than I thought they were going to be. They aren't very chunky and the machining is top notch. I really liked they included a bunch of hardware as well.


The set screws are a nice touch.


I am using some VP SCX10.1 CVDs, note that I had to trip a bit off at the end because the "open gears" in the diff added some clearance issues. I think I trimmed off about 1/8".


The GCM/Bowhouse diff cases came with some washers which was also nice.


The GCM/Bowhouse diff's are a bit over kill but thought it would help with the open gears.


Buttoning up the diff, added some Vanquish Products grease.


I am just using stock gears and no UD/OD gear sets.. this truck is going to be just a fun trail rig.


I am using a New Era four link mount for the front axles. Super old part, I would think they would be hard to find now a days.


This mount was one of the lowest sitting ones I have found, I got a few of these, I dig em.


These housing are getting harder to find, but I had a few new-ish ones laying around.


The really happy with the over all fitment of the VP CVDs, SDD c hubs and Axial knuckles... this will be plenty strong enough for what I got planned for it.

[surfishjoe]

Following 80 series goodness. What are you referring too when you refer to the knuckles- Ackerman vs non Ackerman?

[Goro Majima]

Love what I'm seeing! Seems like it's fun finally putting something together and also it'll be fun to drive for sure.

[twade984]

Looks like an interesting build to me, thanks for sharing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[justinart24]

Originally Posted by surfishjoe

Following 80 series goodness. What are you referring too when you refer to the knuckles- Ackerman vs non Ackerman?

Thanks! It's the arm of the knuckle, non ackerman allows for more of a narro track width because the arms "bend" in and are not straight like the full ackerman setup.

Originally Posted by Goro Majima

Love what I'm seeing! Seems like it's fun finally putting something together and also it'll be fun to drive for sure.

Thanks! Yeah, it will be interesting how it drives for sure.

Originally Posted by twade984

Looks like an interesting build to me, thanks for sharing
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I look forward to get it rolling!

[justinart24]

A bit more updates coming this week, I am waiting on a few suspension components still, but I guess I could start painting this week.

Rear axle is together, I used the SSD RC rear lock outs and some old STRC shafts I have had laying around. I am really digging how much more scale these lock outs are and the set screws are nice, I never thought about running those before but the kit comes with them.
Part No. SSD00082
Rear Lockouts for SCX10 / D60 Axle


I got some more Axial narrowed hexs coming this week too, it will not help a bunch but I am trying to keep the track width pretty narrow.


I am using a RPPHobby/Gearhead four link mount on the rear axle. Another part not made any more, glad I had a few laying around. They sit a bit higher so I might reduce some of the plastic chassis bracing to gain more clearance. It's a nice piece though, well build and good tolerances.


All buttoned up and ready for mounting.

[justinart24]

Making some links and REVO rod ends are totally fine but I like trying new stuff sometimes and I am using some VP 4mm alum rod ends. They don't sell them anymore, I had a few laying around. Since the rod ends are 4mm thread, I picked up some 4mm thread rod on amazon for pretty cheap. I am using 1/4” stainless steel tubing to cover the threaded rod. There was a little slop between the 1/4” sleeve and 4mm threaded rod so I cut down some 3/16” .014” wall tubing to make it a tight fit.

https://www.vanquishproducts.com/mac...r-straight-m4/


Kind of a cool design, I am not sure how well they will last over time but the cuped end presses againest the rod end ball to create a tight fit. The revo rod ends are maybe a bit nicer because the plastic allows the rod end ball to slide around more. But don't get me wrong, the alum rod ends defienlty got a cooler "scale" vibe...lol.


Close up pic showing how I sleeved the 4mm thread. I only use about .75" of the 3/16” .014” on each end.

[B-MOW71]

Following along to see this cool build come together!

Interesting to see all of these old pieces and parts used in a new build. You definitely don't see that everyday!!

[Gula]

I dig lc80 anything. I have the same body, as well as the interior and body mounts. I'm going to run mine based on hpi Venture chassis, etc. Somehow I have a few of those upper link mounts like you do too.

Can't wait to see what it'll look like

[justinart24]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Following along to see this cool build come together!

Interesting to see all of these old pieces and parts used in a new build. You definitely don't see that everyday!!

Thanks! Performance isn't a big factor on this one, so I am tossing any parts I got handy at it...lol

Originally Posted by Gula

I dig lc80 anything. I have the same body, as well as the interior and body mounts. I'm going to run mine based on hpi Venture chassis, etc. Somehow I have a few of those upper link mounts like you do too.
Can't wait to see what it'll look like

I agree, I been wanting to build a LC80 for a while, they large body and bigger fender openings is something I thought was nice. Oh cool, neat to see others with those link mounts, I really like them.

[justinart24]

I haven't ran much black beadlocks but thought the black look would add to more of the "street" look for this LC80, something you could picture getting Starbucks in. I will not be running this in any SORRCA Class One events but picked up some Proline KM3 4.19" tall tires. The tread pattern is nice and I think they will do well. I picked up some 1.9 VP Methods a while back too, running 225 hubs. I wish the track width was a bit more narrow, I might swap in some 185 hubs from Lockedup later one.
BFG T/A KM3 G8
https://www.prolineracing.com/produc...RO1015214.html

METHOD 1.9 RACE WHEEL 105
VPS07911
https://www.vanquishproducts.com/met...lear-anodized/

SCALE BLACK SLW HUB SCREW KIT - LONG
VPS01705
https://www.vanquishproducts.com/sca...crew-kit-long/

SLW 225 WHEEL HUB
VPS01042
https://www.vanquishproducts.com/slw-225-wheel-hub/

HEX SCALE GR8 WHEEL SCREW KIT
VPS05004
https://www.vanquishproducts.com/hex...eel-screw-kit/

[justinart24]

It's officially a roller! The bottom links are made with VP rod ends with 4mm rod and the top links are my standard method of making links... 10-24 threaded rod with Traxxas Revo rod ends and sleeved with SS tubing.


I am using the run of the mill Axial SCX10 shocks, they are very smooth and only reason I would upgrade to alum if I planned to drive rough on SORRCA courses and wanted to reduce the possibility of failures. But this is just a "trail" truck, so plastic it is!


I am running a Brood torment 35t.


Yes, I am in fact running the rubber stoppers on the SCX10 shocks!...lol I wanted to reduce the flex on this truck to give it more of a stock feel.
Also note I am running the bottom of the shocks on the out side of the axle mounting tabs.


I am running MIP drive lines. The front and transfer case drive line is the "DIG" length and I am running the standard length in the rear.


I removed the rear chassis cross member to gain more top four link clearance. I used bolts and nuts to secure the shock hoops instead.

[justinart24]

I got the interior setup and trimmed a bit to get it set right. I wanted to make sure the interior and body would sit as low on the chassis to make sure there isn't a big tire to fender gap. I was planning to run a DinkyRC rear cantilever setup but it interfered with the rear body mount too much, no matter how I mounted it. So cutting holes in the interior for shock hoops it was!...lol


I should be able to hide the shock hoops with a rear subwoofer box or some scale item.


I will say these ebay LC80 bodies don't make it too easy to mount the seats. I guess I might just use a bit of shoe goo or something. *Note, buyer beware on ordering these LC80 bodies, I have had good luck so far but wanted to state a warning, buy at your own risk.


I didn't get a pic of it but the rear body mount and rear interior interface, I had to trim that about a .25" to get the body/interior down.


A few of the holes I made for the shock hoops, I wasn't a bit fan of doing this but I got the body mounted I guess.


Talk about getting lucky with the GCM transmission plate and firewall of the interior, just enough room.


View of the shocks leaning out a bit on the bottom, I guess I would rather have that instead of the bottom leaning in which looks worse IMO.


The full interior really only gets mounted with these to front locations, the rear has a tab and slots in the rear behind the window. I used some long set screws to make a mount, I need to add some glue to they don't pull out though.


And then just mounted with non nylon locking nuts.

[justinart24]

Body is mounted! You can't see it in the first pic but I should be able to run some sliders out to the side of the body. The metal sliders I plan to make will have a "stock" look, nothing crazy... maybe even some small foot steps that stick out and get hung up on stuff. #superscale ....lol


The tires are a hair large, so some light trimming before paint will happen.


I am really happy with the tire and fender gap, I wish I could go lower but the rear of the big interior is the real limiter.


I am digging the black beadlock look, it should go well with the color I have planned.


The things you notice after taking pics, a few bolts need to be tightened ...lol


Now to figure what I want to handle first before paint, I think sliders are next on the lists and getting the interior all done.

[DirtMerchant]

What a cool project. Your choice of wheels is perfect. My Dad had an 80 in 1992 or so, and I always loved that truck. It was dog slow and the brakes were... a little lacking, but I've wanted another one ever since then. I really like seeing where this one goes. Thanks for sharing.

[Highmark]

This is turning out great Justin!

[CIPRIANO]

Great job, I'll stay here to see how it progresses.

[xwaz]

Can't wait to see it all finished up!