01-19-2010, 02:47 AM | #21 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 528
| Try this. http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=505 Im gonna go this route with the g/f jk that i just bought for her. That way motor is up front and has a full interior. Do you have an extra set of rok lox? They are sold out. Where did you get those steering knuckles? Those are awesome. Really wanna go bta steering on my comp rig. |
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01-19-2010, 07:25 AM | #22 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
| You mean on top of the RC4WD red springs? I would still be concerned they would kink under the loads they'll see. Not sure helper leafs would help much in that respect. I think my best option is to move to custom made leafs or maybe ditch the leaf idea up front and link it, but I really would prefer not to.
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01-19-2010, 05:29 PM | #23 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: hawaii
Posts: 1,139
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What about the chino double military wrap leafs?!? I think there s little longer but it might would make your shackle angle better too?
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01-20-2010, 06:55 AM | #24 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
| From what I've heard they will likely be too stiff. Not ruling them out, but I can built some for next to nothing so that'll be the next set of springs I experiment with I think...
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01-22-2010, 05:46 PM | #25 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 409
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Looks good so far Tommy |
02-02-2010, 12:14 AM | #26 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: hawaii
Posts: 1,139
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any updates on this yet??
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02-02-2010, 07:36 AM | #27 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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I've been at a bit of a standstill. The RC4WD springs will be too soft so I just got some material to make my own springs. The rear will remain linked. I'm also debating about this body. I want a 12.5" wheelbase, but am not sure this body will look right stretched that much. I'll likely just keep it and give it a try anyway, but the cage is heavily dependent on the body so it's a lot of work if I later decide the body is too short. That would be a lot of work and time down the drain. Lastly, I'm trying to determine a good way to build an interior. I think just flipping the trans so the spur gear is toward the front will suffice, but am not sure yet...
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02-02-2010, 07:51 AM | #28 |
Ultimate RC Decals Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 3,761
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to fit the scale bronco theme better why not link the front and use the soft leafs out back?
Last edited by BOWTIE; 02-02-2010 at 07:57 AM. |
02-02-2010, 08:28 AM | #29 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
| Quote:
I want the stretch to be slightly biased to the rear. That would likely mean lengthening the chassis and it's already too long for the body. I know a lot of guys with "big" rigs run leafs up front and links out back for stability. I don't know if I personally subscribe to that point of view for a 1:1 rig, but I thought it'd be fun to try it here. This rig will also have fairly limited travel, particularly up front and the leafs fit the bill nicely, I think. I also like the behind-the-axle steering that running leafs allows....not so much from a performance standpoint, but it just looks kinda cool. The drag link will remain in front of the axle, like most rigs I see. I just need to fab the mount for it. So yeah, the suspension layout is backwards from what an EB would have, but this rig is modeled after one that's been pretty heavily modified from stock. We'll see how it goes. I may still end up linking the front, but I'm hoping not to. | |
02-02-2010, 09:01 PM | #30 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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Got another goodie today, a Holmes Torquemaster ESC (waterproofed). I only wish I was at the point where electronics would go in, but I've got bigger fish to fry at the moment. I'm trying to determine the overall look of this rig and there's a few goals I have: I don't want a 100"% droop setup because I want this thing to jump and handle high speeds, yet I want the truck sitting as low as I can reasonably get it. Tire clearance will be tight, but I'm going to try to not dovetail it. I also want to keep as much of the fenders as possible and I want a full width cab. Ideally, it'll also have a full windshield, too. In the shots below, the wheelbase is a bit short at 12" (target is 12.5"). Obviously, the fenders will need to be trimmed quite a bit to meet the performance I'm looking for. Blurry pic, but notice I left just enough frame in front of the body to mount a winch. Width is going to be an issue. Keep in mind it's only running 1.9s at the moment... I suspect that at some point something will have to give....and it'll either get narrowed or dovetailed or the fender will get very hacked. Whatever it is, I plan to keep the alteration as minimal as I can because I want it easily recognizable as an early Bronco. Time will tell... |
02-02-2010, 11:45 PM | #31 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 512
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Nice!
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02-03-2010, 02:42 PM | #32 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: westfeild IN
Posts: 146
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i like the leaf front and linked rear look! are those stock axial scx10 wheels? and where can i get some of those rings?
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02-03-2010, 05:56 PM | #33 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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So a kind soul mailed some spring steel to me and tonight I tried to make some leaf springs. I used my MAPP gas torch to get the end red hot, then tried curling it around a 1/4" screwdriver because that's the radius I'm looking for (so I can use 1/4" fuel tubing as bushings). Well, here's how they came out before I quit. As you can see, I've got a few issues. First, any suggestions on getting a better rounded loop on the ends? I can't figure out a good way to do that. Secondly, I may need to get some arch in the springs. Any suggestions on the best way to do that? I tried just arching one of the springs and it kinked in the middle. |
02-03-2010, 07:00 PM | #34 |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
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Nice start Tommy. I can't speak highly enough about the HH Puller motors, I love them. My 10 turn in Guido handles 14.4V really well so that would be a good option for you if you want to go 4S. It has amazing torque and speed but is still very drivable. At our TTC event Guido was the only rig to move the dump truck at all. I think it weighed about 40 lbs, seriously. Guido ended up in 3rd place overall for our event. The HPI Bronco body has a longer wheelbase than the Tamiya so that might be an option if you want to go longer on the wb. Guido is about 12.5". Your setup with the 1.9's, Rok Lox and the Tamiya body is looking sick though. |
02-03-2010, 07:47 PM | #35 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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Thanks, Chris! A 10 turn HH puller is on the way for this rig. It'll likely get powered by a 3s for now, but it might see an occasional 4s just for grins. ;) Fortunately, the Torquemaster can handle it. I can't tell you how inspirational Guido has been. I've got your cover issue and lost track how many times I've read it. I didn't realize the HPI Bronco had a longer wheelbase. Given how much cutting I'll need to do on this one, I think I may be better off selling this Tamiya and picking up an HPI. Thanks for the heads up on that! |
02-12-2010, 03:19 PM | #36 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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Got a couple small updates... First of all, I think I'll be selling this Tamiya Bronco body and picking up an HPI now that I know the wheelbase difference is nearly 1.5"! Anyone interested? PM me... All I've done is lop off the lexan bumpers. The rest is untouched. I also found a way to consistently bend loops onto the ends of leaf springs. It involved wrapping the red hot steel around a 1/4" screwdriver shaft. Here's the end result. Note the heated portion. I hope this doesn't provide a weak point for it to bend or kink. It fits 1/4" fuel tubing perfectly and that's what I'll be using for my "bushings". Oh, and I got another goodie today to match my waterproof Holmes Torquemaster ESC... It's a HH 10t puller. Aww yeah! |
02-12-2010, 03:35 PM | #37 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: The beautiful Pacific Northwest
Posts: 6,923
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Sounds like you're coming along nicely! It's funny that you guys are talking about the 10t puller....that's what I just put in my Bronco, and I love it! I just ran it down at Spring Park on a 3-cell for an hour and it didn't get over 145 degrees. Finally. As far as those springs go, I did it the same way on the rear leafs on my flatbed/towtruck and they lasted for the entire year that I ran it, and I never had any issues with them. Keep going on that thing, I want to see some real progress...... |
02-12-2010, 03:47 PM | #38 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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I'm tryin', Tim. I'm tryin'... Too many distractions lately! Girlfriend moving in this weekend, trip to New Orleans last weekend, and just no time to do anything significant. I'm hoping that'll change by next week when things settle down. |
02-13-2010, 04:34 PM | #39 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: fort walton beach, florida
Posts: 37
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so i love your jeep by the way, and just an option would be comp cutting the fenders but as you stated earlier you wanted to keep the fenders but hope everything works out and the hh10t puller is goin to be a beast
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02-16-2010, 10:10 PM | #40 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
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Got a little bit of good news for this horrifically slow build.... First, teh hawtness. HH 10t Puller: And I owe Chris a debt of gratitude. I didn't realize the size difference between the Tamiya and HPI Broncos. I thought they were both 1/8th scale or thereabouts. Not quite. Not only will the HPI Bronco fit my wheelbase better, but since I'll be trimming the fenders, it'll allow me to stretch the wheelbase to my original goal of 13". Nice! So if anyone wants the Tamiya Bronco, let me know. I'll cut you a deal. ;) On top of that, things seem to finally be settling down and I hope to get back to building this thing really soon. I've been experimenting with arching the leaf springs and I think I may have finally found a method that works. Once I resolve that issue and get some Cobalt bits to drill some holes in them, the chassis can be completed and real fab work can continue... |
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