Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > Scale Rigs General Tech > 2.2 Scale Rigs
Loading

Notices

Thread: Tommy R's TTC Build - "Big Oly"

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-19-2010, 02:47 AM   #21
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 528
Default Try this.

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=505

Im gonna go this route with the g/f jk that i just bought for her. That way motor is up front and has a full interior.
Do you have an extra set of rok lox? They are sold out.
Where did you get those steering knuckles? Those are awesome. Really wanna go bta steering on my comp rig.
alaskancrawler is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 01-19-2010, 07:25 AM   #22
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocksteadily View Post
maybe throw the helper springs in too it should stiffin up a bit
You mean on top of the RC4WD red springs? I would still be concerned they would kink under the loads they'll see. Not sure helper leafs would help much in that respect. I think my best option is to move to custom made leafs or maybe ditch the leaf idea up front and link it, but I really would prefer not to.
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2010, 05:29 PM   #23
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: hawaii
Posts: 1,139
Default

What about the chino double military wrap leafs?!? I think there s little longer but it might would make your shackle angle better too?
rocksteadily is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2010, 06:55 AM   #24
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocksteadily View Post
What about the chino double military wrap leafs?!? I think there s little longer but it might would make your shackle angle better too?
From what I've heard they will likely be too stiff. Not ruling them out, but I can built some for next to nothing so that'll be the next set of springs I experiment with I think...
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 05:46 PM   #25
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 409
Default

Looks good so far Tommy
SAL45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 12:14 AM   #26
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: hawaii
Posts: 1,139
Default

any updates on this yet??
rocksteadily is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 07:36 AM   #27
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

I've been at a bit of a standstill. The RC4WD springs will be too soft so I just got some material to make my own springs. The rear will remain linked. I'm also debating about this body. I want a 12.5" wheelbase, but am not sure this body will look right stretched that much. I'll likely just keep it and give it a try anyway, but the cage is heavily dependent on the body so it's a lot of work if I later decide the body is too short. That would be a lot of work and time down the drain. Lastly, I'm trying to determine a good way to build an interior. I think just flipping the trans so the spur gear is toward the front will suffice, but am not sure yet...
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 07:51 AM   #28
Ultimate RC Decals
 
BOWTIE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 3,761
Default

to fit the scale bronco theme better why not link the front and use the soft leafs out back?
Attached Images
 

Last edited by BOWTIE; 02-02-2010 at 07:57 AM.
BOWTIE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 08:28 AM   #29
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOWTIE View Post
to fit the scale bronco theme better why not link the front and use the soft leafs out back?
I thought of that, Ric, but there's a few reasons why I've decided otherwise.

I want the stretch to be slightly biased to the rear. That would likely mean lengthening the chassis and it's already too long for the body. I know a lot of guys with "big" rigs run leafs up front and links out back for stability. I don't know if I personally subscribe to that point of view for a 1:1 rig, but I thought it'd be fun to try it here. This rig will also have fairly limited travel, particularly up front and the leafs fit the bill nicely, I think.

I also like the behind-the-axle steering that running leafs allows....not so much from a performance standpoint, but it just looks kinda cool. The drag link will remain in front of the axle, like most rigs I see. I just need to fab the mount for it.

So yeah, the suspension layout is backwards from what an EB would have, but this rig is modeled after one that's been pretty heavily modified from stock. We'll see how it goes. I may still end up linking the front, but I'm hoping not to.
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 09:01 PM   #30
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Got another goodie today, a Holmes Torquemaster ESC (waterproofed). I only wish I was at the point where electronics would go in, but I've got bigger fish to fry at the moment. I'm trying to determine the overall look of this rig and there's a few goals I have:

I don't want a 100"% droop setup because I want this thing to jump and handle high speeds, yet I want the truck sitting as low as I can reasonably get it. Tire clearance will be tight, but I'm going to try to not dovetail it. I also want to keep as much of the fenders as possible and I want a full width cab. Ideally, it'll also have a full windshield, too.

In the shots below, the wheelbase is a bit short at 12" (target is 12.5"). Obviously, the fenders will need to be trimmed quite a bit to meet the performance I'm looking for.



Blurry pic, but notice I left just enough frame in front of the body to mount a winch.


Width is going to be an issue. Keep in mind it's only running 1.9s at the moment...


I suspect that at some point something will have to give....and it'll either get narrowed or dovetailed or the fender will get very hacked. Whatever it is, I plan to keep the alteration as minimal as I can because I want it easily recognizable as an early Bronco. Time will tell...
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 11:45 PM   #31
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 512
Default

Nice!
bmx_ican92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2010, 02:42 PM   #32
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: westfeild IN
Posts: 146
Default

i like the leaf front and linked rear look! are those stock axial scx10 wheels? and where can i get some of those rings?
tj on 37s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2010, 05:56 PM   #33
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

So a kind soul mailed some spring steel to me and tonight I tried to make some leaf springs. I used my MAPP gas torch to get the end red hot, then tried curling it around a 1/4" screwdriver because that's the radius I'm looking for (so I can use 1/4" fuel tubing as bushings). Well, here's how they came out before I quit.





As you can see, I've got a few issues. First, any suggestions on getting a better rounded loop on the ends? I can't figure out a good way to do that. Secondly, I may need to get some arch in the springs. Any suggestions on the best way to do that? I tried just arching one of the springs and it kinked in the middle.
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2010, 07:00 PM   #34
PapaGriz Yo
 
Grizzly4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
Default

Nice start Tommy.
I can't speak highly enough about the HH Puller motors, I love them. My 10 turn in Guido handles 14.4V really well so that would be a good option for you if you want to go 4S. It has amazing torque and speed but is still very drivable.
At our TTC event Guido was the only rig to move the dump truck at all. I think it weighed about 40 lbs, seriously. Guido ended up in 3rd place overall for our event.

The HPI Bronco body has a longer wheelbase than the Tamiya so that might be an option if you want to go longer on the wb. Guido is about 12.5". Your setup with the 1.9's, Rok Lox and the Tamiya body is looking sick though.
Grizzly4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2010, 07:47 PM   #35
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Thanks, Chris! A 10 turn HH puller is on the way for this rig. It'll likely get powered by a 3s for now, but it might see an occasional 4s just for grins. ;) Fortunately, the Torquemaster can handle it. I can't tell you how inspirational Guido has been. I've got your cover issue and lost track how many times I've read it.

I didn't realize the HPI Bronco had a longer wheelbase. Given how much cutting I'll need to do on this one, I think I may be better off selling this Tamiya and picking up an HPI. Thanks for the heads up on that!
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2010, 03:19 PM   #36
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Got a couple small updates...

First of all, I think I'll be selling this Tamiya Bronco body and picking up an HPI now that I know the wheelbase difference is nearly 1.5"! Anyone interested? PM me... All I've done is lop off the lexan bumpers. The rest is untouched.

I also found a way to consistently bend loops onto the ends of leaf springs. It involved wrapping the red hot steel around a 1/4" screwdriver shaft. Here's the end result. Note the heated portion. I hope this doesn't provide a weak point for it to bend or kink.


It fits 1/4" fuel tubing perfectly and that's what I'll be using for my "bushings".


Oh, and I got another goodie today to match my waterproof Holmes Torquemaster ESC... It's a HH 10t puller. Aww yeah!
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2010, 03:35 PM   #37
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: The beautiful Pacific Northwest
Posts: 6,923
Default

Sounds like you're coming along nicely! It's funny that you guys are talking about the 10t puller....that's what I just put in my Bronco, and I love it! I just ran it down at Spring Park on a 3-cell for an hour and it didn't get over 145 degrees. Finally.
As far as those springs go, I did it the same way on the rear leafs on my flatbed/towtruck and they lasted for the entire year that I ran it, and I never had any issues with them.
Keep going on that thing, I want to see some real progress......
War Pig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2010, 03:47 PM   #38
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

I'm tryin', Tim. I'm tryin'... Too many distractions lately! Girlfriend moving in this weekend, trip to New Orleans last weekend, and just no time to do anything significant. I'm hoping that'll change by next week when things settle down.
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2010, 04:34 PM   #39
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: fort walton beach, florida
Posts: 37
Default

so i love your jeep by the way, and just an option would be comp cutting the fenders but as you stated earlier you wanted to keep the fenders but hope everything works out and the hh10t puller is goin to be a beast
civichbboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2010, 10:10 PM   #40
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 4,273
Default

Got a little bit of good news for this horrifically slow build.... First, teh hawtness. HH 10t Puller:


And I owe Chris a debt of gratitude. I didn't realize the size difference between the Tamiya and HPI Broncos. I thought they were both 1/8th scale or thereabouts. Not quite.




Not only will the HPI Bronco fit my wheelbase better, but since I'll be trimming the fenders, it'll allow me to stretch the wheelbase to my original goal of 13". Nice!


So if anyone wants the Tamiya Bronco, let me know. I'll cut you a deal. ;) On top of that, things seem to finally be settling down and I hope to get back to building this thing really soon. I've been experimenting with arching the leaf springs and I think I may have finally found a method that works. Once I resolve that issue and get some Cobalt bits to drill some holes in them, the chassis can be completed and real fab work can continue...
Tommy R is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply




Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com