RCCrawler Forums

nd4spdbh · 01-14-2006, 05:23 PM

ya drop the centers... lower COG... less drive shaft angles... puss it will look better.

DISTURBIN' tha PEACE · 01-14-2006, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zapper2003

with a dropped center, laying it down would make the angles too steep for the sliders.

How can having a drop center increase pinion angle?

Zapper2003 · 01-14-2006, 06:23 PM

With the dropped center the only option i've got (in order to fit the trans between the frame rails) is to stand the trans up, its not a huge difference but from what i can tell at this point it could be pretty close to being too much. I've had the frame rails sitting in the drop-center position here for the past hour or so and from just looking at it i may go that route. I need to just sit around some more and collect my thoughts. I'm toying around with the idea of a type of body mount similar to a 1:1, only instead of mounting the body to the frame, mount a cage to the frame like a 1:1 body is mounted (minus the rubber body bushings), and the body to the cage a-la BrandO style. We'll see, depends on how much more welding and brazing i feel like doing.

nd4spdbh · 01-14-2006, 06:47 PM

y not put the tranny on top of the frame rails laid down?

Zapper2003 · 01-15-2006, 04:19 PM

well after much staring and alone time with my truck, i decided to give it a whirl with the laydown trans on top of the drop center frame. That and i got really bored today so i went ahead and painted the body and left the chassis alone. Heres more pics.

nd4spdbh · 01-15-2006, 05:34 PM

that thing LOOKS GREAT!!!

pinkfloydman · 01-15-2006, 06:57 PM

Dunno, not a big fan of the body...looks kinda....fake.....

other then that, great job!

Zapper2003 · 01-15-2006, 07:07 PM

Just give me a bit when i get it running, it wont look so bad once it gets a bit of rash goin on. I do agree though, in the pictures it doesn't look very well, but it does look better up close. If i had it to do over again it wouldn't be orange.

william g · 01-18-2006, 04:30 PM

I like it
I have been toying with the idea, nd a hilux fram I have
I'm going to do leaf front, 4 link rear possibly

I'll be following this, so my build won't be to rough on my brain.

Great start so far it looks just about perfect.

Mongo · 01-18-2006, 06:39 PM

Nice work. Nothing wrong with the paint job. Orange is cool.

EeePee · 01-18-2006, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zapper2003

well after much staring and alone time with my truck...

... and a beer or six, and you've named one of my favorite things to do.

I think it's coming along real good.

Finish it up and bring it on over to central Ohio in April!

Zapper2003 · 01-18-2006, 07:13 PM

Thanks for all the encouragement guys. I've been piddling with it here lately, just got the crossmembers welded into the chassis tonight, same with my trans mount. I need to order some hardware and/or come across a lot more 3mm locknuts. Been to one hobby shop and bought nearly 4 dozen bolts, but they had NO locknuts or plain threaded nuts of any type? Who knows, one more LHS before i make any decisions. I'm still hung up as for what motor to run. Everyone uses the lathes and likes 'em, but this isn't going to be a full blown crawling machine. RC4WD has those tamiya silver cans for like 7 bucks, and i suppose that'd work, but do i want to go 27t or 35/45/55?? (I have a 19x2 in there now, kinda rediculous with a 16t pinion/87t spur!) I like the idea of the 55, because then i could about keep the 16t and still get torque, or i could go with a stocker and gear down (12-13t maybe?) and keep the torque that way? I still have a feeling this tired 19 double is still too much.

As for ohio in april, doubter! We're gettin geared up for air conditioning season, not to mention furnace cleanings and whatever else happens to be going on. We're busy boys here in PA, so I don't know if i'd be able to make it that long. (what the heck is goin on out there anyways? make it July, i'd travel north to cedar point on the way home :-P)

EeePee · 01-18-2006, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zapper2003

(what the heck is goin on out there anyways? make it July, i'd travel north to cedar point on the way home :-P)

TSC park crawl/trail run/Top Truck type of thing.

July, sure, I'll be here! I haven't been to Cedar Point in years!

william g · 01-26-2006, 12:16 PM

I started on mine today.

I mounted my front axle like you did, with self tapping screws and the bracket on top of a modified JUGG leaf. Not sure if I like it though, REASON is the leafs limiting suspension more than I thought.

I may end up going to a four link. I know if I can't use my 3sp tranny I'll go to a 4 link and pede tranny mounted in my HILUX/Blazer frame. I do not want to modify the frame rails, brackets and crossmembers ok, but not the 2 rails.
I have 2 different tamiya toyota hilux bodies to make it "look" stock till you see the unders.

Unimoger · 01-26-2006, 02:07 PM

move your rear leaf spring hangers down one bolt hole, so the shackles can move a little, look at a bruiser or mountaineer, if you do it like that and maybe take one leaf out you will get alot more flex.

Look at my build or badgers build and you will see what I mean.

william g · 01-26-2006, 04:01 PM

Yeah, I was thinking just to make some of my own. Just moving it down will fix that, but angle the pinion farther than I'd like. Creating new I can go midway between.

Juggy leafs have 3 leaves? so after drilling the pin I only reinstalled 2 to soften it a bit. By relocating my front leaf hanger it positioned my front axle dead center in the wheelwell when I put the body on it. That's why the rear has no room to pivot.

That's the problem when trying to use the stock body, lift and tlt axles. Time to fiddle, and make parts or find allternets so not to hack up $ expensive $ original tamiya 3speed parts.
Thanks for the input, and I don't want to highjack his build so I'll duck out.

Zapper2003 · 01-28-2006, 08:53 PM

I dont mind you posting pictures of your suspension setup in my thread, no biggie.

This is just a little note to say that im pretty much scrapping this project. I've decided that its not gonna work the way i wanted it to. I've got it running, but it ended up about 1/2"-1" too short for the body, so the wheels don't line up in the wheel wells. Not a major problem, however, i've come to hate the leafsprings. Granted they look cool as hell, but with mounting them in the fashion that i have, I can't keep the leaves tucked under themselves, they rotate around the screw. No big deal, they need removed anyhow to make the dang things flex. Flex and scale leaf springs shouldn't go together in the same sentence. My rig is pretty dang heavy, and even when i mounted TWO standard 6c stick packs on the chassis it wouldn't even flex. Another problem i've seen is that the axle is twisting the springs in weird ways under acceleration, throws the rear axle at an angle to the frame (from the top down) and induces a bit of un-wanted rear steer (acts a LOT like a broken center bolt in the rear leaves of a full size rig, it 'crab walks' to the side), the only way i've though to fix this is to add some trailing arms to the frame to help 'center' the axle, but whats the fun in that? sure it looks neat, almost like traction bars, but stock vehicles with leaves don't need em, so why should my scale truck need them? Bah. The front end bumpsteers in ways un-imaginable, its almost undrivable at any type of speed with the steering mounted on the frame, on top of that, when i steer one direction (can't recall which direction at the moment), it pulls the frame down towards the axle because I can't adjust the EPA on my transmitter. So i may have to start over with a 4linked tuber with 4ws on the axles, perhaps i'll keep the steering linkages behind the axle, to help with the scale appearance. Stay tuned, we'll see.

01-14-2006, 05:23 PM	#21
nd4spdbh Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!! Posts: 949	ya drop the centers... lower COG... less drive shaft angles... puss it will look better.

01-14-2006, 06:23 PM	#23
Zapper2003 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Millerton, PA Posts: 137	With the dropped center the only option i've got (in order to fit the trans between the frame rails) is to stand the trans up, its not a huge difference but from what i can tell at this point it could be pretty close to being too much. I've had the frame rails sitting in the drop-center position here for the past hour or so and from just looking at it i may go that route. I need to just sit around some more and collect my thoughts. I'm toying around with the idea of a type of body mount similar to a 1:1, only instead of mounting the body to the frame, mount a cage to the frame like a 1:1 body is mounted (minus the rubber body bushings), and the body to the cage a-la BrandO style. We'll see, depends on how much more welding and brazing i feel like doing.

01-14-2006, 06:47 PM	#24
nd4spdbh Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!! Posts: 949	y not put the tranny on top of the frame rails laid down?

01-15-2006, 04:19 PM	#25
Zapper2003 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Millerton, PA Posts: 137	well after much staring and alone time with my truck, i decided to give it a whirl with the laydown trans on top of the drop center frame. That and i got really bored today so i went ahead and painted the body and left the chassis alone. Heres more pics.

01-15-2006, 05:34 PM	#26
nd4spdbh Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!! Posts: 949	that thing LOOKS GREAT!!!

01-15-2006, 06:57 PM	#27
pinkfloydman Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 267	Dunno, not a big fan of the body...looks kinda....fake..... other then that, great job!

01-15-2006, 07:07 PM	#28
Zapper2003 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Millerton, PA Posts: 137	Just give me a bit when i get it running, it wont look so bad once it gets a bit of rash goin on. I do agree though, in the pictures it doesn't look very well, but it does look better up close. If i had it to do over again it wouldn't be orange.

01-18-2006, 04:30 PM	#29
william g Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: newport Posts: 408	I like it I have been toying with the idea, nd a hilux fram I have I'm going to do leaf front, 4 link rear possibly I'll be following this, so my build won't be to rough on my brain. Great start so far it looks just about perfect.

01-18-2006, 06:39 PM	#30
Mongo RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pocatello Posts: 1,032	Nice work. Nothing wrong with the paint job. Orange is cool.

01-18-2006, 07:13 PM	#32
Zapper2003 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Millerton, PA Posts: 137	Thanks for all the encouragement guys. I've been piddling with it here lately, just got the crossmembers welded into the chassis tonight, same with my trans mount. I need to order some hardware and/or come across a lot more 3mm locknuts. Been to one hobby shop and bought nearly 4 dozen bolts, but they had NO locknuts or plain threaded nuts of any type? Who knows, one more LHS before i make any decisions. I'm still hung up as for what motor to run. Everyone uses the lathes and likes 'em, but this isn't going to be a full blown crawling machine. RC4WD has those tamiya silver cans for like 7 bucks, and i suppose that'd work, but do i want to go 27t or 35/45/55?? (I have a 19x2 in there now, kinda rediculous with a 16t pinion/87t spur!) I like the idea of the 55, because then i could about keep the 16t and still get torque, or i could go with a stocker and gear down (12-13t maybe?) and keep the torque that way? I still have a feeling this tired 19 double is still too much. As for ohio in april, doubter! We're gettin geared up for air conditioning season, not to mention furnace cleanings and whatever else happens to be going on. We're busy boys here in PA, so I don't know if i'd be able to make it that long. (what the heck is goin on out there anyways? make it July, i'd travel north to cedar point on the way home :-P)

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01-26-2006, 12:16 PM	#34
william g Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: newport Posts: 408	I started on mine today. I mounted my front axle like you did, with self tapping screws and the bracket on top of a modified JUGG leaf. Not sure if I like it though, REASON is the leafs limiting suspension more than I thought. I may end up going to a four link. I know if I can't use my 3sp tranny I'll go to a 4 link and pede tranny mounted in my HILUX/Blazer frame. I do not want to modify the frame rails, brackets and crossmembers ok, but not the 2 rails. I have 2 different tamiya toyota hilux bodies to make it "look" stock till you see the unders.

01-26-2006, 02:07 PM	#35
Unimoger I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: G6'N Posts: 7,391	move your rear leaf spring hangers down one bolt hole, so the shackles can move a little, look at a bruiser or mountaineer, if you do it like that and maybe take one leaf out you will get alot more flex. Look at my build or badgers build and you will see what I mean.

01-26-2006, 04:01 PM	#36
william g Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: newport Posts: 408	Yeah, I was thinking just to make some of my own. Just moving it down will fix that, but angle the pinion farther than I'd like. Creating new I can go midway between. Juggy leafs have 3 leaves? so after drilling the pin I only reinstalled 2 to soften it a bit. By relocating my front leaf hanger it positioned my front axle dead center in the wheelwell when I put the body on it. That's why the rear has no room to pivot. That's the problem when trying to use the stock body, lift and tlt axles. Time to fiddle, and make parts or find allternets so not to hack up $ expensive $ original tamiya 3speed parts. Thanks for the input, and I don't want to highjack his build so I'll duck out.

01-28-2006, 08:53 PM	#37
Zapper2003 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Millerton, PA Posts: 137	I dont mind you posting pictures of your suspension setup in my thread, no biggie. This is just a little note to say that im pretty much scrapping this project. I've decided that its not gonna work the way i wanted it to. I've got it running, but it ended up about 1/2"-1" too short for the body, so the wheels don't line up in the wheel wells. Not a major problem, however, i've come to hate the leafsprings. Granted they look cool as hell, but with mounting them in the fashion that i have, I can't keep the leaves tucked under themselves, they rotate around the screw. No big deal, they need removed anyhow to make the dang things flex. Flex and scale leaf springs shouldn't go together in the same sentence. My rig is pretty dang heavy, and even when i mounted TWO standard 6c stick packs on the chassis it wouldn't even flex. Another problem i've seen is that the axle is twisting the springs in weird ways under acceleration, throws the rear axle at an angle to the frame (from the top down) and induces a bit of un-wanted rear steer (acts a LOT like a broken center bolt in the rear leaves of a full size rig, it 'crab walks' to the side), the only way i've though to fix this is to add some trailing arms to the frame to help 'center' the axle, but whats the fun in that? sure it looks neat, almost like traction bars, but stock vehicles with leaves don't need em, so why should my scale truck need them? Bah. The front end bumpsteers in ways un-imaginable, its almost undrivable at any type of speed with the steering mounted on the frame, on top of that, when i steer one direction (can't recall which direction at the moment), it pulls the frame down towards the axle because I can't adjust the EPA on my transmitter. So i may have to start over with a 4linked tuber with 4ws on the axles, perhaps i'll keep the steering linkages behind the axle, to help with the scale appearance. Stay tuned, we'll see.

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