| | #1 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Not where I'd like to live
Posts: 4,724
| Well since my other truggy thread is soo long I decided to start a new thread. So here's the latest, I went to the Mini Hammers and went thru some drivelines. Then I got a bit bored with going slow and swapped out the lather motor for a mag mayhem and changed the gearing. It hails arse now(for a crawler) but snapped both drivelines at the yoke within 2 minutes. The pede shafts can't handle the ponies I guess. I also finally got the ultra narrowed Duratrax wheels all glued up with some Moabs and Losi uncut firm foams. Since the truck is so heavy they should help more than hurt. Once I get some more pede shafts I'll test out the foams. Oh, I'm also looking at sinking the tranny into the frame. Though I'm not sure how yet. |
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| | #2 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Vallejo
Posts: 178
| why dont you upgrade the shafts?were they metal yokes? |
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| | #3 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SERCRC
Posts: 1,683
| I like the other thread better.... it had pics! Come on, let's see the skinny wheels! |
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| | #4 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Orem
Posts: 1,064
| Yes....Show me some pics!! |
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| | #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 180
| we want pics |
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| | #6 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Not where I'd like to live
Posts: 4,724
| I'll get some up soon. I left my camera in thew womans ride and she's out of town tonight. Sorry, The wheels are pretty sweet looking. They're double narrowed Duratrax maximum ST's painted silver then partially painted flat black with (3rd)Rock Rings, of course. They are between 1 1/8" -1 1/4" wide. They fit the Moabs well. |
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| | #7 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Concord Ca
Posts: 910
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| | #8 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Not where I'd like to live
Posts: 4,724
| Ya, I ran one in my Bulu too, but the weight of this thing and the gearing are the issue. Plus the traction of Moabs. Oh and yes I run metal yokes, the issue is the plastic shafts pop off under a good load. Ok here's the pics here's the cut & uncut wheel Last edited by rckjeep; 02-05-2006 at 01:58 AM. |
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| | #9 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Concord Ca
Posts: 910
| Oh Sorry for needing it spelled out ot me your truck is way heavy:-) |
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| | #10 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 620
| how about some maxx shafts? |
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| | #11 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: BAY AREA
Posts: 545
| I'm not sure if you can.. but my suggestion is to use some square stuff... I found some perfect size square tubes and they are slip fit with each other.. and just braze them onto your new steel yokes.. If you think thats week, then go with a small solid square, hex, or spline rod and braze it to your new steel yokes.. BTW.. I get goosebumps when I look at that rig or yours.. Pure jealousy..! Last edited by skipstr71; 02-05-2006 at 08:30 AM. |
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| | #12 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 180
| looks good i really like the way all those trail rigs look |
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| | #13 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Not where I'd like to live
Posts: 4,724
| Well I had an idea to reduce the angle on my driveshafts and it went together well. Check it out. A CV driveshaft. It didn't work though. The joints are just to loose. Oh and I was at Sportsmart today getting some pellets for my new air rifle when I found a box of Daisy slingshot ammo in a neat little plastic box. It'll make a nice scale cooler or toolbox, plus gives you a bunch of 1/4 steel balls for weight in your tires. I'll post some pics tomorrow. |
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| | #14 |
| Haters gonna Hate ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: In the Basement building Hiluxs and shit
Posts: 7,522
| Dave, the truggy looks sweet man, I have a question on that driveshaft you made, you say it didnt work? that it was to loose? what was to loose? My 4runner has some serious steep drive shaft angles and I am trying to figure something out what will work...Your idea there looks pretty good. Mike |
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| | #15 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Not where I'd like to live
Posts: 4,724
| Well the CV portion came unscrewed within seconds and the metal yoke to CV joint took all the angle but when rotating the CV to shaft joint would stay straight. So when the truck rolled forward the driveshaft would flop around. It was good in theory. |
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| | #16 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,941
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| | #17 | |
| Haters gonna Hate ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: In the Basement building Hiluxs and shit
Posts: 7,522
| Quote:
Mike | |
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| | #18 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: a place of settlement, activity, or residence.
Posts: 844
| Are you having any problems with rounding out the hex on the wheels due to the weight? I just got through wasting two stampede wheels. |
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| | #19 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Not where I'd like to live
Posts: 4,724
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| | #20 |
| I wanna be Dave ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: san jose
Posts: 3,412
| dave, i had the same problem on my mountaineer. you could use t/e maxx shafts but get the heavy duty "x" part #'s. the yokes eventually wear out but last quite awhile. or option #2, get some old bruiser mounty shafts or juggy shafts. a little pricey, but they work. i am using the bruiser shaft for my rear, works great. waiting for tower to get the juggy shafts in stock (all steel not brass). the other thing i was thinking about using was some old snap-on 1/4 drive universal sockets. you would have to make custom shafts and drill/tap set screw holes but you would never break them. not sure if they are too big to use on the 1/10 stuff. most have an offset pin block for greater angularity also. |
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