1:8 scale 2.2 Jeep - Summit 2spd installed

[Lukefalls]

Its official, the Raptor is parted-out. This is my new build.

I decided to use 1/4" tubing on this Jeep. I was going for the CJ3A look. I'm not sure that I actually got that look, but its definitely a Jeep.

• Wraith axles - stock
• Summit 2spd
• Novak 45 turn w/ Rooster ESC
• HPI Shocks
• 2s 3600 35c saddle batteries
• Traxxas controller
• Mayhem Monster wheels
• RC4WD Rock Crusher tires
• RC4WD punisher shafts

I want to replace the tires with TSLs, but that's for later. I also want to go brushless, but there is a TON of information on this page. Much of it is conflicting and its taking time to sort though.


I just got my Summit 2spd in the mail. Its huge. It weights twice as much as my RC4WD 2spd with a dig! It looks like it'll hang down, even with my sub frame. It has a terrible "slop" between forwards and reverse. My guess is its the tabs on the drive gear engaging the intermediate collar. I don't know how well that'll work for crawling. I'll see if there is a fix for that.

That being said, I'm going to use it. I can lean it over a bit and make it a little less top heavy.

[sweli]

Great start!!
Are you making your own body panels or have a lexan cut an fit over in mind?
Which 2spd are you thinking of? Still the Summit?

While your at this stage, you should fab yourself a servo plate and get that bad boy up on the chassis.

[Lukefalls]

Thanks. Yeah, I do plan on making my own panels. I may make the hood from metal, but we'll see.

I am definitely going to use the Summit trans. The RC4WD is said to be weak. I have not had any problems with strength. I have, however, had issues with it shifting. It does not always want to go into high hear. The design of the dig unit also makes for shifting woes. A GOOD thing is that the RC4WD has excellent mounting options with all its threaded holes. That being said, you'd better plug them all or you have lube leaking out...everywhere...twice! All in all, I have had positive experience with it.

I'm not so sure about the chassis mounted servo fad... What I mean is that it looks scale, but doesn't really work as well as axle mounted steering. I have a good deal of experience with 1:1 rigs and 3/4 link suspensions. Having long travel/high articulation 3 or 4 link suspension makes frame mounted steering a problem. While it looks good, it adversely affect steering. I'll explain in detail if anyone is interested.

[ScaleReady]

Originally Posted by Lukefalls

I'm not so sure about the chassis mounted servo fad... What I mean is that it looks scale, but doesn't really work as well as axle mounted steering. I have a good deal of experience with 1:1 rigs and 3/4 link suspensions. Having long travel/high articulation 3 or 4 link suspension makes frame mounted steering a problem. While it looks good, it adversely affect steering. I'll explain in detail if anyone is interested.

It works great if you know what you're doing. I have 3 link/panhard in the front of my crawler, with a chassis mounted servo. I have TONS of flex, and from full compression to full droop, my steering doesn't even flinch. It is a little trickier than just mounting it on the axle, but I don't think you are losing out on much. Unless you are looking for like 90 degrees of flex.

Just my .02

[Meatwad]

While the summit trans has a bit of rotational slop, it is tough as all hell. Shifting on the fly with a tekin pro4 hasn't even made it flinch. Although with enough dust/mud it'll be finicky about shifting eventually too until a rebuild.. the nature of an rc 2spd.

The rig is looking good so far, keep the updates coming

[Lukefalls]

Originally Posted by ScaleReady

It works great if you know what you're doing. I have 3 link/panhard in the front of my crawler, with a chassis mounted servo. I have TONS of flex, and from full compression to full droop, my steering doesn't even flinch. It is a little trickier than just mounting it on the axle, but I don't think you are losing out on much. Unless you are looking for like 90 degrees of flex.

Just my .02

You're absolutely right. I just didn't want to take the time to properly plan and build the 3 link and panhard rod. Done wrong, the results suck!

Here is a small update. I've been trying to make it hold itself up. I spend three days trying to come up with shocks mounts that I like. I wanted something more than just a hoop and tab. Needless to day, I did not come up with something I like. I just had enough and made those.

Once it has weight, it'll sit a bit lower, which I like. I had to modify the base to fit the output of the Traxxas transmission. I figured that I could simply lay it over on its side and it should work well. That'll keep the center of gravity down and it won't hang too low. I need to get a smaller spur gear and smaller pinion gear. That make it more compact. This thing is so big, I'm not sure I can call any part of it compact. I found a Hot Racing set that I think I'm going to order.

***Does anyone know where I can get metal internal gears for the trans?***

I also came up with a super easy bump stop.
I used a length of 1/4" tubing with a small piece of 3/16" tubing inside as a bushing. Just braze it into one end of the 1/4" tube. I used a 4 penny nail as the shaft. Just use drill and a file to turn down the head of the nail to fit into the 1/4 inch tubing. It took like two seconds. I found a small spring. I closed it up with an M4 nut on the "housing" and an M3 nut on the shaft. The length of the housing and the length of the rod are simply cut-to-fit your application.

[Lukefalls]

Forgot the most important picture.

[Lukefalls]

What do you guys think?
I got the trans installed. As you can see, its almost flat in the chassis. Using the 54T spur gear make tons of room to move it. Its much smaller than the stock 68T gear. And as you can see, nothing hangs below the chassis.

Had I thought it through a little more, I'd have made that part of the chassis wider and mounted the trans nearly flat.

Here you can see the difference between the two gears


This is the side mount plate. It took a while to make. I need to make another one to go under the trans.

[Lukefalls]

Okay, so it moves under its own power now. The Summit 2 spd is awesome. With it mounted flat, the COG is not too bad. The gear spread is awesome. I followed the link to removed the slop. It does work.

Removing the slop from a Summit trans

I'll post pics later. Now time to make it a little more scale.

[Lukefalls]

Action shot later when its cleaned up a bit.

TO DO:
faux sway bar
panels
metal grill
LEDs
Front Light bar
Rear light rack
Interior...that'll be a big job

[TXJeeper1]

Nice looking build. I like how low the motor and trans sit. The tube work is really nice and well done. Good looking rig. I love it when people build Jeeps!

[Lukefalls]

Originally Posted by TXJeeper1

Nice looking build. I like how low the motor and trans sit. The tube work is really nice and well done. Good looking rig. I love it when people build Jeeps!

Thanks, I appreciate it. I put a good deal of though into this and it paid off well. I'd not use anything but a Summit 2spd in the future. It really is an awesome trans.

I'm a bit more surprised that I have not received much feedback...good or bad.

I dropped it off at a sign shop to have panels cut. They'll fit between the tubes. I don't want to cover up the tube work. Tubes will be silver and panels will be orange. Paint is still a while out.

[mtgrizzlymn]

Looks awesome. Cant wait to see it done i love jeeps to

[Lukefalls]

I NEED HELP:

Okay so, funny story.

I took my truck down to the local RC shop to show it off. Out of nowhere, it burst into flames. I did something incredibly stupid grabbed the truck and ran outside and threw it in the snow. My though was not to burn down the shop. But, that is what insurance is for and nothing is worth losing my arms over, especially not an RC car.

Luckily, it was NOT the lipo. It was the Novak Rooster ESC. The other good thing is that nothing else was damaged.

This was a clue to me to finally upgrade to a brushless setup. I bought a 3800 Castle and a sidewinder. Crap, this ting is stupid fast. It sucks crawling. That's really unfortunate because I've heard nothing but good about it.

HELP - I followed the instructions for the set-up. Now the motor has very little low-speed control. It just lurches and goes. Then to reverse, I have to hit reverse twice. The ESC lights up, indicating that its getting the reverse signal. It just doesn't go backwards. Am I missing something.

Also, it has nearly no brake.

Any help is appreciated

[c0bra]

try to tune your esc. if you need help with it somebody at your local rc shop should be able to help you.

with the reverse you have to wait ti the truck is stopped, then wait about 2 seconds, then it should go into reverse.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

[Meatwad]

Unplug when not in use! Sucks hearing about letting the magic smoke out. That combo is good, just not for crawling. Sensorless is for go fast stuff. Also like was said, recalibrate and tune the esc.

[Lukefalls]

Thanks...both of you. I was told at the hobby shop that it was sensored. He was wrong. I recalibrated it twice now. I'll buy the Castle-Link and program it.

Also, I think my gearing is too tall for this motor.

***FYI***

Brushed 45T Novak - Best Gearing - 54/15 (crazy, but yes)
Sensorless Brushless 3800 - Best Gearing - ??? but I'm going to try 54/10

That Summit 2spd is awesome. I think that RPMs from the brushless are too high for the gearing that I have. In high gear, its stupid fast. Like, too fast for my driveway. It is so fast that I cannot control it on the little bit of ice that's outside. Its wants to do donuts from the torque effect. That is the same gearing that was too slow for the brushed motor.

I think that I'll go from the 54/12 that I have now to 54/10 and see how it does. Then maybe it'll crawl better and instead of being stupid fast, it'll just be really fast.

[Lukefalls]

I think that I've had enough of this hobby. Seriously. This is supposed to be an inexpensive thing, and now I'm so frustrated that I care not to continue. Today, it lost its fun.

So I tried to use the Manual Programming that CC gives in the owner's manual. I must be missing something because there is nothing even close to what they're describing occurring. I don't want to spend another $25 for a PC link. I am not sure I trust my local hobby shop.

I'm sure that its a good product, but after reading a bunch last night, I realize that he local hobby shop sold me the wrong thing. This setup is really for a go-fast truck, not a crawler. I am a bit disappointed that he told me it was sensored, when it is clearly not.

Now, my steering servo clicks when I turn all to one side. With no load, it turns fine. My guess is a broken/stripped gear. So maybe $15-20 to fix. I've already got too much into this project and I can't even drive it.

FOR SALE

[Meatwad]

That's sad to hear man I'm liking your build so far. One of the first lessons in this hobby is to rarely trust your lhs, don't like saying it but upwards of 85% of lhs employees I've come in contact with havent been the sharpest knives in the drawer. You can sell that combo, get close to what you paid for it and pick up a larger brushed combo or a decent sensored setup for almost the same price.

Sometimes the hobby can be frustrating, put it away and come back to it in a few days.

[Lukefalls]

Thanks Meatwad. I appreciate the encouragement. I went for a long run in the hills around my house...in the snow...uphill both ways. But I did have shoes.

I tried to reprogram the ESC again...and succeeded. It fixed some of the issues that it had. Now I'll just wait until the shop opens up again and buy a smaller pinion to help slow this thing down. Its so fast and has so much torque that it keeps snapping parts. Now I need lower links.

I'll keep at it. I'd really like to see this done and at last a little bit usable. I may go back to the 45T brushed motor. Maybe not for sale yet.

Thanks again Meatwad.