10-08-2012, 06:48 PM | #41 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
I never heard of the "mimi", lol but im willing to try anything at this point. I can tell you this much...as i was laughing at your post and typing this i turned my head to the left and found one item i lost two days ago. It was lying right where i left it...son of a gun! it was camouflaged on top of couple of axial light bucket kits. do you know how many times i moved that pile looking for it? Now i have my wife on the lookout for a little bag with a rc4wd king kong toe shackle. I figure since i lost it disappeared yesterday it will appear tomorrow. Thanks for the luck man! Now let me see if i can post some pics of wreckluse... by the way, i hate meetings as well. Not my best pics but at least its an update... you can see my speed controller and receiver under Willy's butt. Last edited by Lobonyc; 10-08-2012 at 06:58 PM. | |
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10-08-2012, 10:30 PM | #42 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
Hey, luck is everything....can't tell you how many times I've done the "Mimi" Looking at your photos, I noticed your shocks are pretty vertical. knock the top mount inward toward the driver and you'll drop the rig down a bit both front and rear shocks. But that will screw up the links as well....you might get the same results with the longer shocks knocked back a couple of holes. Sorry bud...making a mess of your rig I'll shut up now |
10-09-2012, 08:54 AM | #43 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
I can't totally dismissed those holes as a form of adjustment. I want to shorten the shocks but the drop from 110mm to 90mm was too much. With the holes you pointed out i will be able to drop chassis in smaller increments without purchasing more shocks. SWEET!!! The cleaned up Mag-slot/Iroks combo should make it look nice. Can't wait to get home now! By the way the reason i kept them vertical was to keep handling similar to the scx10 as they run similar setup. Also not sure if you ever saw my wreckluse with tracks but i added a pic to album. The tracks were removed and put away...they are fun but not same as a set of grippy tires. plus tracks are geared down so crawling really means crawling. The day is not passing by quick enough and a wreckluse in need is calling out to me....oh what a world, what a world..... | |
10-09-2012, 09:10 AM | #44 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
I only make suggestions my friend...I actually like a little laid back shock better than straight up and down, seems to be a bit more flexible for me...but that's just my take on it. Hopefully the longer shock/different position doesn't change the clocking or link length...those links look good. I wanted to ask about your upper link in the front. Are you using the "Y" yoke that is standard with the SCX-10 axels? I'm putting together a tuber (my first attempt at brazing) and I was going to use these axels....not sure I like that set-up though. Is there an alternative?...like a 4 link ? |
10-09-2012, 10:20 AM | #45 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
YEs indeed, I am using the "Y" yoke setup as the AX10 and SCX10. I never knew why people were changing to four link setup. The original setup allows it to be very flexible. I have been tempted to get a truss mount but stopped short because i like the way the "Y" setup handles. I instead am going to strengthen the "Y" setup by installing an aluminum version of the gearbox roll mount: Integy AX10 SCX10 Gear Box Roll Mount, Silver: AX10 I only had the original part break on me once. The upgrade should hold up nicely. Dude, I've wanted to try my hand at brazing (wreckluse chassis inspiration) but i cant even bend a tube without it snapping, lolol. throw a torch in the mix and you have a recipe for disaster. | |
10-09-2012, 11:47 AM | #46 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
lol...brazing scared the crap out of me at first....was sure I'd torch my facial hair or the dog...but I've only blistered my index finger forgetting just how hot this gets before touching it....and I've been discouraged by my lack of squareness (if that's a word)...but I've cut it off and re-done it and so far I'm on the road to completing the whole project. I actually get some decent joints now. Just takes a bit of practice....I mean if Meatwad wants me to do his tube work on his 6x6, I guess it's not bad. you could do it I'm sure....not sure about cutting the Wreckluse chassis though...that's a bit much. I thought about chopping the top down by about a half an inch. |
10-09-2012, 11:51 AM | #47 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
Hey, I checked out that link for the aluminum "Y" mount....that looks do-able...just might leave it as is.
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10-09-2012, 01:20 PM | #48 | ||
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
lol i didnt mean i was inspired to cut a wreckluse...i meant that the wreckluse chassis style had giving me inspiration to try doing my own...The research put a damper on that. Quote:
Im not sure what the pros and cons between a "y" link are versus a 4 link. I know that the "y" link has one contact to the axle and the 4 link has 2. Hey i would like to see some brazing pics when you ever post a thread on your work. | ||
10-09-2012, 01:24 PM | #49 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
|
The ball in the ylink would always pop out on me with too much power applied and eventually have the axle flopping around. I beat my junk |
10-09-2012, 01:28 PM | #50 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
That's why i got the integy gear mount...not a fan of integy but in this case it should be better than stock. not going to comment about beating your junk | |
10-09-2012, 03:59 PM | #51 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
Either way its alum so it'll hold up better than plastic. Beating your junk feels good sometimes to take out the frustration | |
10-09-2012, 04:29 PM | #52 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse |
10-09-2012, 06:10 PM | #53 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
Ha ha ha...I got tears from reading this... I needed that.... I remember now why Meatwad didn't like the stock set-up... and I'm chicken to show the brazing just yet....maybe I'll get brave and post up a pic of what I have right now...Actually Cyrus hasn't seen me do the Mimi...only blister the finger...I can get frustrated with the best of them |
10-09-2012, 07:07 PM | #54 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
Doing the "Mimi" should be a last resort , you don't want to bust a vein in your head. I myself learned to not lose it when i do the "Alex". I now wait for the item that vanished to reappear from the alternate universe once it fulfills its duties there. | |
10-09-2012, 09:47 PM | #55 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
You're suppose to have fun...it's hard to get mad at a toy truck At least that's what I keep telling myself. When you pop a shaft, was that with the stock stuff ??? I want to use MIPs Kind of on the fence with that ball and cup thing with the Y yoke |
10-09-2012, 10:03 PM | #56 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
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Like my grandpa would always say... "You're gonna let that lil bolt/nut kick your ass?" It always plays in my head when I get angry at one of my toy trucks |
10-10-2012, 05:32 AM | #57 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
The drive shaft that kept popping was the stock plastic one. Once they pop off the first time it gets easier for them to pop again. I replaced them with a set of MIP's. now i only worry about rust An alternative to the stock Y yolk: Gear Head RC 4-Link Truss for Axial AX10 or SCX10 (1) It separates the links but keeps them very close together. It eliminate the axle mount with the ball connection as well as the plastic "y"(it has broken on me as well). I'm not so sure you can have rear steer with this upgrade which is why i went with the Integy. I might still order and install on orange bronco since it lacks rear steer. Must remember when i get tagged teamed by a nut and bolt. Its never a fair fight. | |
10-10-2012, 07:33 AM | #58 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
I like the gear head upgrade....the rear already has the 4 link Yet the only pictures of this were in the rear...just thinking out loud here, but doesn't the axle mounted servo need that original part to mount to ? I'll have to go back and look at that some more...it's not the rear I want to change...it's the front Thanks for the link Alex... |
10-10-2012, 08:54 AM | #59 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: (LES) Manhattan, New York
Posts: 1,162
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse Quote:
I tell you what, give me a few days and i can answer for you. Im going to place an order now and install this upgrade on the orange bronco when it arrives. It has no rear steer so it wont be a waste of $. I will then let you know if works in the front with axle mounted servo. | |
10-10-2012, 09:04 AM | #60 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
| Re: Clanker's Wreckluse
The ax10 style plates for axle mounted servo/4link allow for both. It does require at least the plastic ylink truss/mount for the ability to use this plate: 4link is far more durable in my opinion. A variation of that plate is on the carrier monkey's ford scx10 and that thing takes a beating. |
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