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Old 12-30-2017, 11:23 AM   #41
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Default Re: A different kind of Bomber...

When I saw the lacing in there and you said you haven't welded the major structure, yikes! You will never get to all of it ( been there, done that). In reality, you could tack it like you have and run it without problems. Look at the mig welded cages out there with all their cold welds running without issues. As for panel mounting, I personally weld sheet metal that I can bolt through, using the aluminum panels like shear paneling on construction projects. You can also get 4-40 nutserts to put in the sheet metal tabs, which is probably the easiest route. 20 or 18 ga tabs. Hold the panel in its location and drill the 1/8 hole thru both parts, drill the tab with a 3/16" and install the nutsert, just allow for the 3/16" hole in the tab and not in the tubing! Whats the eta for a maiden voyage? This build is bad azz.
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:54 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
When I saw the lacing in there and you said you haven't welded the major structure, yikes! You will never get to all of it ( been there, done that). In reality, you could tack it like you have and run it without problems. Look at the mig welded cages out there with all their cold welds running without issues. As for panel mounting, I personally weld sheet metal that I can bolt through, using the aluminum panels like shear paneling on construction projects. You can also get 4-40 nutserts to put in the sheet metal tabs, which is probably the easiest route. 20 or 18 ga tabs. Hold the panel in its location and drill the 1/8 hole thru both parts, drill the tab with a 3/16" and install the nutsert, just allow for the 3/16" hole in the tab and not in the tubing! Whats the eta for a maiden voyage? This build is bad azz.
No I have welded the major structure. Just some of the tubes in the sub frame area are so close together it would be tough to full weld everything so I'll have to live with 75% welded tubes in the tough to reach spots, UNLESS I put small MIG tacks in those areas but like you said, it will probably be fine as it is. All the other tubes I can get to. 4-40 nutserts must be tiny! I've used larger ones and they can be a bit of a pain to "swage" them in place. As for the maiden voyage, not sure. Been helping my buddy build an exo for his Tacoma this weekend so time spent on the RC has been shifted to that. I still need to get pics of the latest tube work
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:57 AM   #43
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Ya that crossed my mind too, but I figured 2 tacks shouldn't kill the nylon? Or will they need more then that to hold?

Killer work though! Can I be next in line for one? Lol.
Most of the time with the TIG, I have to sit in one spot until both metals heat up enough to melt, then dip rod in so I am almost certain the nylon wouldn't hold up. Its different than MIG welding where you can do a quick tack and not get the metal too hot. For precision work like this, I prefer TIG hands down. Thanks! I'd build some more chassis but its such a pain to notch all the tubes that the time invested wouldn't make it inexpensive by any means
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:59 PM   #44
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Most of the time with the TIG, I have to sit in one spot until both metals heat up enough to melt, then dip rod in so I am almost certain the nylon wouldn't hold up. Its different than MIG welding where you can do a quick tack and not get the metal too hot. For precision work like this, I prefer TIG hands down. Thanks! I'd build some more chassis but its such a pain to notch all the tubes that the time invested wouldn't make it inexpensive by any means
It's so nice though. I used to braze all my chassis but I got tired of the clean up. TIG is better in every way.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:02 PM   #45
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It's so nice though. I used to braze all my chassis but I got tired of the clean up. TIG is better in every way.
Yeah I've done silver brazing on my old SCX-10 Hilux rear tube work and it was a bit of a pain. TIG is way nicer!
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:11 PM   #46
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Everyone likes pics right? Full bump and proposed ride height
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:18 AM   #47
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Does the shock's stroke align with your desired ride height/bump/droop "elevations"? Also, my vote for coating after see these pics is leave it raw and clear coat it. That thing is screaming "Let's go run KOH!" What are the eye to eye lengths on the shocks? Bypasses at all 4 corners would be sick looking on that thing, run them empty. Asia Tees perhaps???
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:31 AM   #48
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Default Re: A different kind of Bomber...

That chassis is bad ass, man! Awesome work!
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Old 01-03-2018, 04:47 PM   #49
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Does the shock's stroke align with your desired ride height/bump/droop "elevations"? Also, my vote for coating after see these pics is leave it raw and clear coat it. That thing is screaming "Let's go run KOH!" What are the eye to eye lengths on the shocks? Bypasses at all 4 corners would be sick looking on that thing, run them empty. Asia Tees perhaps???
Yeah the shocks are perfect actually. Of course since I'm making all new shock mounts I can put them in the exact right spot. Someone makes scale bypasses?? If so, I'm ordering them shits I've been on the hunt for scale bypasses
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Old 01-03-2018, 04:50 PM   #50
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That chassis is bad ass, man! Awesome work!
Thanks! I'll be getting more done on it tonight. And hopefully start figuring out how to mount the battery.
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Old 01-03-2018, 06:31 PM   #51
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Yeah the shocks are perfect actually. Of course since I'm making all new shock mounts I can put them in the exact right spot. Someone makes scale bypasses?? If so, I'm ordering them shits I've been on the hunt for scale bypasses
Somebody 3d prints a 3 tuber if I remember correctly that fits rc4wd kings. Not sure of the shock lengths, but shapeways prints them, maybe someone will remember where, on the Bomber forum. Very cool looking pieces. I hear you on the shock mounts, but you're stuck with locations on the links, shock 90 degrees to the arm at full bump.
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:11 PM   #52
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Somebody 3d prints a 3 tuber if I remember correctly that fits rc4wd kings. Not sure of the shock lengths, but shapeways prints them, maybe someone will remember where, on the Bomber forum. Very cool looking pieces. I hear you on the shock mounts, but you're stuck with locations on the links, shock 90 degrees to the arm at full bump.
Yup! I’ll dig around in the Bomber section a little. Looking at it again, the rear shocks are in the rear most hole in the trailing arms and 90* to the link at full bump puts the top shock mount close to the harness bar. The King coilovers would need to be mounted inside the passenger compartment and in the front hole on the TA to get 90* to the links and still fit a scale bypass behind the coilover I guess this will be a single shock 4800 Bomber
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:20 AM   #53
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https://www.shapeways.com/product/AU...li=marketplace

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7F...li=marketplace
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:02 AM   #54
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Ok thats cool as hell! Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:18 PM   #55
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Yup! I’ll dig around in the Bomber section a little. Looking at it again, the rear shocks are in the rear most hole in the trailing arms and 90* to the link at full bump puts the top shock mount close to the harness bar. The King coilovers would need to be mounted inside the passenger compartment and in the front hole on the TA to get 90* to the links and still fit a scale bypass behind the coilover I guess this will be a single shock 4800 Bomber
How well do the yeti trailing arms scale out to the 1:1 trailing arms? I doubt Randy is getting a 2:1 motion ratio and I bet that has something to do with where the shocks are ending up.
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Old 01-04-2018, 10:55 PM   #56
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How well do the yeti trailing arms scale out to the 1:1 trailing arms? I doubt Randy is getting a 2:1 motion ratio and I bet that has something to do with where the shocks are ending up.
Not sure on that. I shortened my rear links to suck the rear end up a bit, I still think it's a little long compared to the 1:1. I could make new trailing arms though and put the shock exactly where I want it I will know more when I work on it more this weekend.

I'm going for this look so I ordered a set of SSD rock racers from RC mart to go with my Axial KR2s



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Old 01-04-2018, 11:10 PM   #57
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So good Really I think 1.9's would be a lot more scale than 2.2s though
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:33 PM   #58
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Well they will be less scale than the Kings but I decided to get 103R/93F Gmade Piggybacks for tunability. With how much weight I've added (still not sure yet how much exactly) I think I will enjoy the tuning option on them. Thinking of ways to make them look more scale, maybe some blue paint/anodizing with King stickers Added the last bit of tube to the chassis yesterday. After looking at the 1:1 Bombers, they have a vertical tube in the top section of the B pillar behind the drivers heads so I'll add that real quick. Also ordered 100 M3 stainless square nuts for mounting body panels and a bunch of short M3 button head stainless bolts. Should only need 4 per side and 4 on top. Going to mount the battery in the factory location and use the factory hinge as well. So next is shock mounts or body tabs, whichever comes first
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:22 AM   #59
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Few new additions... SSD rock racer wheels, got the interior fitted as well as the hood. For the interior, I only had to trim the back of the seats a little bit and the front cowl area to make it fit nicely. I was really wondering how it would go re-installing it after all the tubes were welded in and it wasn't too bad twisting it in from the under side. Happy I got the hood to hinge like stock Also started welding on M3 square nuts for panel tabs but the threads deform quick since they are tiny. Had to order more Gear Head Fab tabs instead. They are bigger and will weld to the chassis easier. Built the G-made Piggyback shocks too, they are huge! Zero room for another shock but I like how smooth they are and the adjustability is key for mobbing. 93mm up front and 103mm out back will work out perfectly.

Hows the sanded tubing look? I'm on the fence about it. Still leaning towards Steel It coating after a good sand blast.
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:05 PM   #60
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I like how it's coming along, the hood looks great, cage looks great. Those two items in particular make it resemble a home-built racer, up to you if you want it to go all fancy and "Pro" looking by painting it... even with Steel It.
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