RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

[JDM74]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

While I would mind (too much) having to go with the RC4WD King shocks, I REALLY like the idea of being able to use Traxxas GTRs, as they're among the best shocks available. It seems obvious that the GTRs would easily work/fit the rear...but, in regards to the front, does anyone having the Ryft also have 134mm/139mm GTR shocks that can test, to see how well they for the front of the Ryft?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

I can answer your question once I get my Ryft together. I have a UDR as well.

Edit: I actually have a set of the 134 mm shocks just sitting here.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by JDM74

I can answer your question once I get my Ryft together. I have a UDR as well.

Edit: I actually have a set of the 134 mm shocks just sitting here.

Fan-friggin-tastic...lol.

I know I'm not the only one not keen on using the stock shocks, so this could potentially help a lot of people. While I won't be doing anything as complicated, and time-consuming, as my Star Wars Stormtrooper-themed Capra, I have (finally) decided on a theme for the Ryft. Since a couple of "surprises" were just ordered (literally, as in less then 5 minutes ago), and will have to make their way from Hong Kong, there's plenty time to figure-out/resolve the shock 'problem'.

As for what the 'theme' is, all I'll say is this: "Ask me no questions, and I'll tell no lies...but I do guarantee it'll be a marvelous surprise."


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[JDM74]

I too have a part in route from the far east that is the current hold up on assembly. I’m currently trying to decide what color to dye the cage…decisions, decisions.


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[Panther6834]

For anyone interested in running non-stock shocks on their Ryft, as well as for anyone who's already tried/succeeded in installing non-stock shocks, I've created a new thread - "A Guide to Using Alternate Shocks on the Axial Ryft" - in the '2.2 Scale Rigs' section. I figured, even though it is Ryft-related, since it covers a specific area/part of the Ryft, it should have it's own thread.

At the same time, it would be fantastic if one of the RCC Mods would create a "RBX10 Ryft" sub- section within the "Axial Brand Scale Rick Crawlers" section, and then place all Ryft-related threads in there. So, Mods...what's the holdup? I know others, in multiple threads, have made this 'suggestion'...isn't it about time for the Ryft to have it's own section (within the "Axial Brand Scale Rick Crawlers", obviously)?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Panther6834]

REJOICE fellow Ryft (and Capra & SCX10-III) owners. We FINALLY have a realistic, and better, option than the garbage SX107 servo. PowerHobby has released their new 59MG Micro Digital Servo, designed SPECIFICALLY to replace the SX107 servo in the Ryft's 2-speed transmission, as well as the Capra's & SCX10-III's dig.

Mine arrived yesterday, so I decided to build the transmission, and see how well it fit...and, it fits like a glove.


The motor is coreless, and the gears are a combination of steel & Ti. Dimensions are 23mmx12mmx27.5mm. It operates on 4.8V-8.4V, with the following specs for 6.0V & 7.4V (the two most common):

6.0V - 0.11sec & 80oz-in/5.8kg-cm
7.4V - 0.09sec & 95oz-in/6.8kg-cm

~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[splyn]

After all the horror stories of how fragile the Ryft is, i replaced the angled end links with Revo links. even with "stronger" links i was expecting the worse as my rig went straight into a tree at close to full speed. well, a couple scratches, but nothing broken!! Everything was working well until i did it again and broke two link ends on the front (one was an Axial link that attaches to the axle housing, the other was a Revo link that attaches to the skid). I'm actually pretty impressed at the durability as i don't think anything else broke. ill know for sure when i tear it down to install the 2100KV and lowered gearing i ordered (stepping down from th 2700KV and stock pinion that is currently installed)

[StretchMaK]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

REJOICE fellow Ryft (and Capra & SCX10-III) owners. We FINALLY have a realistic, and better, option than the garbage SX107 servo. PowerHobby has released their new 59MG Micro Digital Servo, designed SPECIFICALLY to replace the SX107 servo in the Ryft's 2-speed transmission, as well as the Capra's & SCX10-III's dig.

Mine arrived yesterday, so I decided to build the transmission, and see how well it fit...and, it fits like a glove.


The motor is coreless, and the gears are a combination of steel & Ti. Dimensions are 23mmx12mmx27.5mm. It operates on 4.8V-8.4V, with the following specs for 6.0V & 7.4V (the two most common):

6.0V - 0.11sec & 80oz-in/5.8kg-cm
7.4V - 0.09sec & 95oz-in/6.8kg-cm

~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

I had one of these servos show up today and none of the spektrum servo saver parts I have will work on it. The servo savers I have ( AX31009 ) are for the bigger size shaft. it looks like the Powerhobby servo is the smaller shaft but 25 spline if I counted right. The small spektrum part that comes with the SX107 is only 20 spline.

Please let me know how/if you get it to work.


ETA, Just tried mounting the powerhobby servo in my Ryft that is almost done and the servo hits the radio box mount that screws to the skid plate. Going to have to do a little trimming I think for it to fit proper. The power hobby servo has a deeper mounting than the SX107.

From the bottom of the mounting tabs to the bottom of the servo the Powerhobby servo is 20.5mm and the SX107 is 16mm.

[Curb Crawler]

I really don’t like the 2 speed, the clonking of the drive dogs is so annoying, I’ll be taking mine out and going back to single speed

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by StretchMaK

Just tried mounting the powerhobby servo in my Ryft that is almost done and the servo hits the radio box mount that screws to the skid plate.

The power hobby servo has a deeper mounting than the SX107. From the bottom of the mounting tabs to the bottom of the servo the Powerhobby servo is 20.5mm and the SX107 is 16mm.

While I'm still working on the servo saver part matter, I have "solved" the depth of the 59MG 'problem'. Compare the side profile pic your receiver box, with the side profile of my modified receiver box.
With the modified receiver box, you can already have the 59MG (or Reef's 99) installed, and the receiver box just slips perfectly into place.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[StretchMaK]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

While I'm still working on the servo saver part matter, I have "solved" the depth of the 59MG 'problem'. Compare the side profile pic your receiver box, with the side profile of my modified receiver box.
With the modified receiver box, you can already have the 59MG (or Reef's 99) installed, and the receiver box just slips perfectly into place.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Looks like what I did with mine.

Other than the shift rod/shift going into the trans straight is the servo saver needed?

[Panther6834]

While I still have a LOT to do (I haven't even dyed the cage yet), I did get the motor & ESC installed into the trans, and reinstalled the trans onto the skid.Going to try and get the cage pieces dyed today (after assembling & disassembling the cage, to test if the Traxxas GTR shocks would fit without modifying the cage).

Originally Posted by StretchMaK

Other than the shift rod/shift going into the trans straight is the servo saver needed?

Technically, it's not absolutely "needed"...but, just as with the Capra & SCX10-III, if you use a traditional servo horn, and don't have your endpoints PERFECTLY set, in all probability, you WILL kill the servo. In other words, using a servo saver on the dig and/or 2-speed shifters is highly advisable.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Panther6834]

And now the cage pieces have all been dyed. What could the theme be...hmmmmm...lol


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Panther6834]

Got the Yeah Racing angled bullets soldered to the motor wiring, and the mod to the connectors (my apologies for not boring who originally suggested the angled connectors, or the mood needing to be done, as I'm 'blanking' on who that person was...but, "Thank you") plastic casing done.

Now, whereas on the heck are XT60 connectors...can't power-up/ready this thing without them. Oh, how the memory starts to go as you get older..........


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[RockCrawlingKid]

I found the solution to 2speed problems.


Yeah racing aluminum 25t servo saver horn pn#axsc057. This allows you to use the supplied arm/spring. As seen in my photo it is the standard 25t. The tr4 power HD is a micro servo with standard 25t spline. I installed it and reset epa. It works great.


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[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by RockCrawlingKid

I found the solution to 2speed problems. Yeah racing aluminum 25t servo saver horn pn#axsc057. This allows you to use the supplied arm/spring. As seen in my photo it is the standard 25t. The tr4 power HD is a micro servo with standard 25t spline. I installed it and reset epa. It works great.

I had thought about this, so I emailed them...and, they wouldn't give me any straight answers. Their products says great, but their CS is sorely lacking. Word-for-word, this is what their reply said:

"AXSC-057 is design for micro servo of scx10 III"

Now, I knew this couldn't be accurate, and for two reasons. First, as everyone who knows the SCX10-III knows, the stock servo (SX107) has a 20T micro spline, not a 25T spline. Second...as I suspected, and as you, yourself, found out...the Yeah Racing piece has a 'standard' size spline, not a 'micro' spline. However, if my first "final solution" doesn't pan out, I just might get the Yeah Racing part.

For right now, I've temporarily given up on the PowerHobby 59MG. This is not to say I am completely done with this option...I did find a file on Thingiverse - someone designed a bottom servo saver piece specifically for a 25T micro spline. I don't have a 3D printer, so I've got someone nearby printing two pieces for my (one from PLA, the other PETG). Hopefully, these fit...and, as long as both do, I'll see which is the stronger (ie. lasts longer).

In the meantime, I removed the 59MG, and replaced it with an EcoPower 640T, which has a 'standard' 25T spline, thus I'm using the 25T piece from the AXI31009 (aka AXIC3009) "Hi-Low Servo Saver Kit". The only downside to the 640T is that it's only rated to 6.0V...so, if the 3D printed pieces don't work out, I'll need to find another micro servo w/ 25T standard spline (such as Reef's 99, etc), in which case I'd get the Yeah Racing part.

Speaking of the 2-speed shifter, I discovered something else...why so many people (myself included) have had problems with the shift level 'sticking'. Someone else came up with the idea of removing the Guide Pin (which, honestly, I initially thought was ridiculous)...but. With my lever also 'sticking', I decided to remove the transmission cover, and try to determine the cause. What I noticed is that the Guide Pin is not perfectly parallel with the 2-speed shift rod....or, to be more specific, I'm thinking the holes in the transmission case that hold the Guide Pin in place are not in proper alignment to each other.

Here's what I think is happening. The hole in each trans case half that holds the Guide Pin need to perfectly aligned with each other, no different than the pins holding the gears. Using the trans gears as an example, if even one hole is not properly aligned with its counterpart, that would cause the entire transmission to bind. I don't know if this is happening in all trans cases, or only some of them, but one of the two holes is off just enough that it puts the armature responsible for sliding the "shifter" at a slight angle. This could/would cause the "shifter" to be at a slight angle to the rod holding the 'high' & 'low' gears, which, in turn, leads to the binding. Put another way, the 'Guide Pin' is miss of a 'Misguiding Pin'.

So, I tried what the previous person did...I removed the 'Misguided Pin', reassembled the trans case, and, instantly, the 'shift' rod was freely sliding back & forth. If anything else is having a "binding" problem with the 2-speed shifter, this solution is (virtually) guaranteed to permanently fix the problem.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program.....


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[StretchMaK]

Good info on the shifter binding problem, mine is doing it pretty bad just moving it by hand. Will pull that guide pin out and see what happens.

The servo... I got a Power HD TR-4 servo from a guy at work. Was talking to him about the Ryft two speed. He said to try the TR-4 servo. It has the standard size 25t spline and is high voltage up to 7.4v. Works with the Axial servo saver set also. Going to order one and try it out.

[Curb Crawler]

No guide rod and angled motor connectors? that would be me

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Curb Crawler

No guide rod and angled motor connectors? that would be me

In that case, "thank you" twice over.

First, removing the Guide Pin worked wonders. With the pin in, I had difficulty moving The level by hand, and the servo (which is stronger than the SX107) couldn't budge it. With the pin removed, it's like slicing butter with a hot knife.

As for the angled bullet connectors, I bought 6 packages. That's enough for 4 ESCs/motors...and, considering I've got 1 Copperhead (now attached to the top of the Ryft transmission to via an RPM Mamba X cage), to 1 MMX, and 3 (or is it 4...I've lost count) Mamba Xs, I know they'll all get used. When you said you had to modify them to get them to fit, I assumed you meant the sides...but, as I discovered today, it was the ends opposite the wire leads.

Now, I just need to wait for a few "special" packages (two from Vitavon) coming from across the Pacific, & paint the body panels, and then I can finally put everything together. Speaking of body panels, how many people have come up with 'solutions' did a roof panel, and from what vehicle did you use the food panel on the Ryft?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Curb Crawler]

Yeah it’s the sides when used the Mamba X, it only took a few mins with a fine file to get them to fit just right

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Curb Crawler

Yeah it’s the sides when used the Mamba X, it only took a few mins with a fine file to get them to fit just right

Thanks. I'll be sure to "follow your lead" when I get to adding them to the Mamba X in my Losi BR.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place