RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

[StretchMaK]

I got to try the TR-4 this morning and it works great for the two speed. Have one on the way.

I took the guide rod out and you guys are 100% spot on about how much better it works now. Awesome tip.

[Panther6834]

I'm waiting on PowerHobby's engineer to call me again...should be calling me shortly. Evidentially, they're going to ship "something"...I just don't (yet) know what that "something" is. Will update after the call.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Curb Crawler]

Now rocking a set of SSD Contender rims





I found the only pair of stock tyres in the UK and paired them with a Proline Dual Stage foams

[Curb Crawler]

Also for the last few weeks I’ve been running a Tekin ROC 412HD 1800kv, locked in high, a 13t pinion and on 4s, it’s been the best set up I’ve tried so far, it’s smoother down low than the Puller Pro R and still has decent wheel speed being on 4s

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

I'm waiting on PowerHobby's engineer to call me again...should be calling me shortly. Evidentially, they're going to ship "something"...I just don't (yet) know what that "something" is. Will update after the call.

Here's the "update" on the PowerHobby 59MG matter (this would also apply to those wanting to use the Reef's 99, but obtaining these parts could prove difficult).

PowerHobby has come up with a true 'solution' to the SX107 servo saver lower piece problem. I can't speak for the Reef's 99...but, the PH59MG does have "overload protection" of (according to Art, PowerHobby's lead engineer) approx 10%. Note: As far as I've been able to determine (based on how many I, and countless others, have 'killed), the SX107 has NO overload protection. That means the servo saver is, technically, not truly needed when using the PH59MG. If you're endpoints are slightly 'beyond', that's ok, as the overload protection will prevent you from 'killing' the servo.

As for what PowerHobby's 'solution' is, it will be an additional part. They haven't decided whether they'll automatically include it in the box with the 59MG, or whether it'll be available for seperate purchase. But, according to what I was told, for anyone already having purchased the 59MG directly from PowerHobby, they will either automatically ship the part (or parts, if you ordered more than one 59MG) once they come in. They shipped me several prototypes, two each work two different oval/'slider' thicknesses. Here's what they look like:
For those interested in specifics, the 'thinner' oval is 4.75mm thick, while the 'thicker' oval is 5.5mm thick. Again, these are prototypes...3D-printed prototypes.

How they're attached to the servo is quite simple...and, quite ingenious. But, before the "shift adapter" (as I'm going to call it) can be attached, you have to first modify the included (as in, included in the servo box, as originally shipped) 4-arm servo horn. First, the shift adapter & 4-arm horn are aligned, using a long M2.5 screw (I'd recommend an M2.5x8mm buttonhead, or caphead, as that's what you'll need to attach this to the servo). Next, 2-4 M2x8mm screws (honestly, two should be enough, as seen on the following photo) will be needed, to attach the shift adapter to the 4-arm horn. It's probably highly recommended to also use two M2 washers, between the screw & shift adapter. When tightened, this is what it looks like from the top:
With the shift adapter attached to the 4-arm horn, the arms of the horn need to be mostly removed, as seen here:
Finally, with the shift adapter attached to the 4-arm horn, the horn attached to the servo, the servo installed onto the transmission case, and the transmission's shift mechanism connected to the shift adapter, here's what everything looks like installed:
Now that this final photo was taken AFTER I tested everything, to be certain that it would work properly...and, work properly, it most DEFINITELY does. Remember, this applies not only to the 2-speed shifter for the Ryft, but it can also be used of the Capra's dig, as well as everything related to micro servos on the SCX10-III.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[StretchMaK]

What is everyone using for replacement rod ends. Got my Ryft running today and broke a lower front rod end already.


Thanks for the update Panther. Looks like you are on the right track

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by StretchMaK

What is everyone using for replacement rod ends. Got my Ryft running today and broke a lower front rod end already.


Thanks for the update Panther. Looks like you are on the right track

Haven't tried them with the Ryft...yet...but, typically, the best replacement rod ends are the rod ends for the Traxxas Revo.

What I'm curious to know (is like to assume others are also interested) is what options people have done in adding a roof panel. I know I saw a photo (at least a few weeks ago, but I can no longer remember which thread) of someone having taken a roof panel from another vehicle, and using zip-ties to attach it. While this is 'good', I'd be interested in knowing if anyone has attached a roof panel, and used other methods for attaching it.

An idea came to me in 'how' to attach a roof panel, using some Capra parts - specifically, the pieces used for attaching the hood-panel/battery-cover. They are "hinges"in which a screw goes through the panel, then through the hinge's top hole, and then screws into the bottom of the hinge. I could see 8 of these hinge pieces used to hold a roof panel (2 front, 2 rear, 2 left side, 2 right side) in place, which would look a lot better than zip-ties.

While obtaining just these hinge pieces (or other similar pieces) could be somewhat difficult (as I don't think they can be purchased on their own)...but, the "bigger question" is in what roof panels from other vehicles would work with the Ryft (even if they have to be cut down in size to match the Ryft's roof. So...any ideas/suggestions for roof panels?


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Stollenritter]

Originally Posted by StretchMaK

What is everyone using for replacement rod ends. Got my Ryft running today and broke a lower front rod end already

When upgrading rod ends (in general, not Ryft related), I go for Traxxas or SSD. SSD is my odds-on favorite.

[Curb Crawler]

The Axial bent rod end used on the inner front are really weak, ive replaced them for straight ones and are holding up fine so far

[StretchMaK]

Thanks for the info guys. Was wondering if changing the bent ends for straight ones would be better. Good to know they are holding up so far.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Stollenritter

When upgrading rod ends (in general, not Ryft related), I go for Traxxas or SSD. SSD is my odds-on favorite.

I know I'm the one who initially mentioned/suggested the Revo rod ends...but, just by chance, might you (or someone else) which which Revo rod ends - 5347 or 5349 - properly fit on the Ryft's turnbuckles? That is, of course, assuming either of these two options will work.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[JDM74]

Originally Posted by Curb Crawler

Now rocking a set of SSD Contender rims





I found the only pair of stock tyres in the UK and paired them with a Proline Dual Stage foams

Did you have trouble closing up these wheels on the stock tire beads? I have a set of SSD assassins with regular inner rings (not blue prolines) and I am afraid if I tighten these down all the way I am going to cut the bead off the tires.

[Curb Crawler]

Nope, they bolted up just fine

[JDM74]

Originally Posted by Curb Crawler

Nope, they bolted up just fine

Did you have to use longer screws to start them?

[Curb Crawler]

Yeah

[JDM74]

So I tried mounting these tires again with no foams thinking maybe the foam is getting between the inner ring and the bead on the wheel. No luck. I used longer screws and cannot get the SSD Assassin wheels to tighten down all the way. It's almost as if the inner ring is made too wide and the beads on the stock bogger tires are almost like proline beads. My last hope is maybe order a set of the proline rings and see it that works I guess.

Here is a pic of the wheel assembled tight with the inner ring all the way to the back of the wheel. The gap is almost non-existent.

Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

I have sent a message to SSD but haven't got a response yet.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by JDM74

I have sent a message to SSD but haven't got a response yet.

Chris is usually extremely good at responding. It is possible that he could be unusually busy, causing a delay in him being able to reply.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Chris is usually extremely good at responding. It is possible that he could be unusually busy, causing a delay in him being able to reply.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Agreed. He has always gotten back to me in a timely manner.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[Curb Crawler]

Strange, I had no issues at all mounting mine and loads of guys on the FB groups run them without issues

[StretchMaK]

I have a set of the cheap china knock offs and the Ryft tires will not work on those either.

Just glued the tires to the plastic wheels for now.