RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by NickelPlate

I'm new to these rock bouncer/racer cars. I just got a new Ryft. I haven't checked the diffs yet but I've seen people filling their diffs with really heavy silicone oil. Beside lubrication I'm assuming they do this to stiffen them up a bit. Back in the day (in the 80s and 90s) we packed our diffs with heavy grease like Mobil 1 synthetic right out of a grease gun What's the difference?



Thanks,



NP

Petroleum based grease, such as what you used to use, "eats away at" (ie. dissolves) plastic. The silicone based shock oils, and differential 'fluids' used today does not have any ill effects on plastic. Additionally, the silicone fluids are somewhat more "environmentally friendly".


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[NickelPlate]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Petroleum based grease, such as what you used to use, "eats away at" (ie. dissolves) plastic. The silicone based shock oils, and differential 'fluids' used today does not have any ill effects on plastic. Additionally, the silicone fluids are somewhat more "environmentally friendly".


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Makes sense. Thanks for the reply.

[Timmahh]

Also. the grease, being more sticky, doesnt flow smooth like modern silicone oil. Grease can leave open points that can lead to inconsistent diff action. The silicone fluids don't have this issue, unless you leave a fair bit of air in the diffs (as most rtr diffs are. lol).


I did read that post Panther, and was aware PH may have an option coming in the future, but as for today..... lol

I ordered the axial set you posted up. I got the xxxxx52 set, but it only has the 25T standard horn size horn in it, though its labled for Micro Servos. lol


Also ordered a KNK Heavy Duty Brass Horn.
Treals servo saver horns are Out of Stock everywhere. Hot Racing servo saver horn may work well.
But Thinking I'll be grabbing one of the servo AF saverlinks they make when in stock.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Timmahh

I did read that post Panther, and was aware PH may have an option coming in the future, but as for today..... lol.

I spoke with the owner, who said Art (the lead engineer) should be in in about 2hrs (that was 30min ago), and that Art will call me later today. While this solution isn't yet available to the public, I promise it WILL be worth the wait. The PH59MG & Reef's 99 are MUCH better options than the (VERY problematic) SX107. I don't even like the SX107 being in my Losi Mini-B, and will be replacing it a 59MG (with the Reef's aluminum horn).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Timmahh]

I ordered a Reefs micro horn to have on hand. Just incase I need to fab. but if all work with the solution you are hanging out on, Good Deal.

I should have the axial part for the 25t mini on that 09 part tree tomorrow. Hopefully that will work out.
Hopefully the route you are hanging on works out and is available soon.

I thought those Yeah Racing 25T Micro Horn Adapters would be the key, but they are for standard size servo shafts, not Micros. Apparently.

if it turns out that the Axial 09 parts tree works, or your solution comes through, I may have a Reefs Micro horn available. lol

[Timmahh]

Some stuff came in today for the Ryft.
2.5 million diff fluid for the Front when I move the locker to the center diff, when I install the two speed, when the micro horns get here tomorrow or saturday. lol
Micro Horn for the Reefs form Reefs if I need it and the Axial parts tree Panther mentioned.
Front Axle housing for a spare. Will get some 5/16 copper or aluminum, tubing and cut a few inner support tubes for both axles.
A couple Protek Mod 1 Pinions. a 13 and a 15 (few others in the coming order, 14, 16, and 1
And a HW Max8/2200kv combo. If it looks a bit too big, I may move this to the What N Tarnation Scaler No Prep build and go with a slightly shorter motor, maybe a Tekin setup, or a Castle Mamba X and a Holmes or Castle motor).
SSD Ryft Hubs for Proline wheels with the swappable hubs many 2.2s are using so I can run those wheels when I get a set.
Yeah Racing angle 4/5mm plugs for the motor/esc connection.

Then the last thing that came in was this Vaquish Yeti Sway bar. I have to hit the hardware store tomorrow and get a piece of Spring Steel to make a longer rod. about 1 inch or so to make it wide enough for the Ryft.

Or I may still order a Treal or Vitavon sway. Or wait till Vanquish gets one out. But this one will work for now, and may be a perminent piece once setup.



Tomorrows going to be a busy YouBoob day with the Ryft going through all this stuff.

[Curb Crawler]

That’s esc uses 6.5mm bullets, so you can’t use the angled connectors

[Timmahh]

Originally Posted by Curb Crawler

That’s esc uses 6.5mm bullets, so you can’t use the angled connectors

You know. I did not even think about that. DOH.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Curb Crawler

That’s esc uses 6.5mm bullets, so you can’t use the angled connectors

But...knowing there are 5mm to 4mm 'stepdown' pieces, it might be worth checking into the possibility of 6.5mm straighten stepdown pieces.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[AR Fabrication]

I'm interested in getting a Ryft and would like to know if they have updated the axle housings. I've read that the housings break pretty easy.

[Timmahh]

Originally Posted by AR Fabrication

I'm interested in getting a Ryft and would like to know if they have updated the axle housings. I've read that the housings break pretty easy.

Yes. Twice it seems. first update was a running update making the plastic more durable. The new housings have updated and bigger support and support trussing on them. Front and rear both are a bit more supported in trussing around the pumpkins.

[Timmahh]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

But...knowing there are 5mm to 4mm 'stepdown' pieces, it might be worth checking into the possibility of 6.5mm straighten stepdown pieces.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

These Yeah Racings have 4 and 5mm screw in plugs, 1.5mm loss is a bit. I will be on 3s most of the time, but have 3 4s packs now. lol


But I am now 2nd guessing my esc/motor choice in respect to sensored or not.
Im thinking I maybe should have gone with a sensored setup.

[NickelPlate]

Originally Posted by Timmahh

Also. the grease, being more sticky, doesnt flow smooth like modern silicone oil. Grease can leave open points that can lead to inconsistent diff action. The silicone fluids don't have this issue, unless you leave a fair bit of air in the diffs (as most rtr diffs are. lol).


I did read that post Panther, and was aware PH may have an option coming in the future, but as for today..... lol

I ordered the axial set you posted up. I got the xxxxx52 set, but it only has the 25T standard horn size horn in it, though its labled for Micro Servos. lol


Also ordered a KNK Heavy Duty Brass Horn.
Treals servo saver horns are Out of Stock everywhere. Hot Racing servo saver horn may work well.
But Thinking I'll be grabbing one of the servo AF saverlinks they make when in stock.

I see what you guys mean now. I picked up some 1mil weight silicone "fluid". I'm not sure fluid is the word, it's more like putty. Much thicker than any grease I've ever used.

[Panther6834]

I posted this in another thread, but felt it could be worth also posting it here. There always to be a possible 'misunderstanding' regarding the HR LMT servo saver. According to a reply posted by someone in another thread, the "problem" with the HR LMT servo saver is that it uses plastic inserts for the servo splines, and that the plastic is soft. Here is an image of the HR LMT servo saver I received.
According to that other person, be in that other thread, the plastic inserts was off a soft plastic, and it easily 'distorted', making the servo saver completely useless. However, as you can see, not only does the version I received NOT use inserts, but the part that goes over the servo spline is NOT plastic. In fact, it's steel (or, maybe, aluminum...I can't tell). What I surmise is that, maybe, this is a redesigned version, and that HR is no longer producing the 'original' version. Whatever problem those of your who tried the 'original' HR LMT servo saver had, this 'newer' version should eliminate all of those problems.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[JDM74]

Originally Posted by NickelPlate

I see what you guys mean now. I picked up some 1mil weight silicone "fluid". I'm not sure fluid is the word, it's more like putty. Much thicker than any grease I've ever used.

You should try 20 million. That’s what I run in my front diff. The other 2 are locked.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Timmahh]

So I did my 2 speed over the weekend, and into Monday. lol


Got into the Trans 3 times. 2 for the 2speed and shifting stuff (removed the guild shaft on the 2nd time and all freed up)>
Flattened down the back side of the shift fork to allow it to go into first fully. My setup fully engaged 2nd, but first was a bit slackalackkin. Removing the "Bump" on the rear side of the shift fork allowed the dogs to fully seat in first gear.
Wihtout the guide shaft, some lube on the dog cog and shaft and the 2 speed shifts very smoothly
Note" These things don't have any synchronization at all. So shifting while at speed and/or on power will tear up the dog geras.
If you must shift while at some speed, let off the throttle first, then shift and slowly give it throttle gain.
Act like you're drying a 72 stick shift that dropped the clutch. lol

Doing that alone, will drastically reduce wear on the dog ears on the shifting cog.

Once all that was done, I didn't get my Reefs Micro horn over the weekend so had to wait for it to get here on Monday.

So that's when I did vid number 3, and dug down and worked the shifting horn mechanism over and modded the Reefs Micro Horn, the servo mount on the tranny, and the plastic shifting mechanism so it worked without putting any side forces on the shift lever as it moved in and out to shift.

Here are the 3 vids. They are all long. Me going over, checking out how things work, giving ideas I see going on. Re assessing those ideas etc. .lol
And a bit of general BSing while doing the vids.

Vid 3 is the Reef's Install and what I needed to do to get it working properly.

didn't get out today to do any testing, but on the bench and in the house it works great. Once outside and under some good load, all should be golden in the 2speed world wit the Reefs Mirco 99 and Mirco Horn, and one smaller Drive shaft pin that has been slightly modified along with the horn.

Looks like I lied
I have 4 vids. Last is still the Reefs vid. lol
First Vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3s6YdkqmyM

Second Vid on 2speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7EQ_ttWP5k
(PS, Didn't get to run, except for a few minutes in the yard. too many stiff shifting issues still.)

Third vid, this is where I yank the guide shaft and get it all working smoothly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV0qe9tOIzk

And finally, the 4th vid where I deal with the Reefs setup, horn alignment to shifting lever. Mods to the Reefs Micro Horn and connection piece on shift shaft, and what I had to do with the axle pin so everything flowed well without binding during the shift itself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzAlmCDKjIQ

[Timmahh]

Also, Servo AF Servo Savers are back in stock if anyone is looking.
Mines on the way.

[Timmahh]

On one of the Ryft Fakebook pages, one of the Euro owners said he used the shock bump stops (new set) as internal limiters under the pistons to drop the ride height a bit. I like that idea so I ordered and had a few sets dropped off early in the week. Got around to putting a pair in the rear shocks and put them back on.

Still have to install the other pair into the front shocks and put them back on the front. The 120s I have riding up front now are doing fine, just they limit the travel/comression too much imo. Having one of the bump stops in the stock front shocks seems like a better option.

Debating on trimming the battery tray to allow for more front end travel, though this may be a last option kind of thing.

When I installed the Reefs Micro, I also put on the set of Pitbull Rock Beasts IIs on the ProLine USA Beadlocks I got off Ebay and were delivered end of last week.

Between the limiters and the RB IIs the overall stance has come down just a bit.
Hoping to get out tomorrow for some runs to see how it goes.

[lonleycreeper]

Well I broke mine finally!

Through no fault of the truck though... Oh wait...

No this cheap HH piece of junk...



My nephew sitting on it...













Reality It was flying high (10-12 ft) in the air and landing flat on hard pack...



















So doing whips, backflips and various other stunts will break stuff kids... Only on 3s.

[Timmahh]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

Well I broke mine finally!

Through no fault of the truck though... Oh wait...

No this cheap HH piece of junk...



My nephew sitting on it...













Reality It was flying high (10-12 ft) in the air and landing flat on hard pack...



















So doing whips, backflips and various other stunts will break stuff kids... Only on 3s.

Fly Fix Repeat. lol

Put the front shocks with the bumper limiters on, but left the support 120 springless shocks I have up front. with the battery tray still full, they still extend fully for the stock fronts, and stop right where the upper links contact the tray area. So figured wth. Should help soak up the hard stuff in front.

Still need to do something about the say bar mount cap to run the other pair in the rear. Have a plan. Just need to determine best approach to create it.