Cheap Ryft rtr with problems.

[SCX10 JK]

Ok first off never I have never done a build thread so it's going to be amateur attempt here. I kind of messed up from the start and didn't even take pictures before I tore it down whoops.

Little bit of background on the Ryft. I was not planning on going down this road due to all the problems that the Ryft has had and I really wasn't planning on a rtr if I did pull the trigger. I found a used ran once inside Ryft that had been purchased with a faulty center diff. I was able to purchase it for 320 shipped so I figured sure why not. No clue why previous owner didn't warranty it. I can't complain though cause I got a heck of a deal.

I tore it apart and confirmed center diff was destroyed 2 problems that I noticed one it was only shimmed on one side so that was the cause of diff failure. Also there was missing a bearing on the outside of diff to the trans case. Way to drop the ball Axial.

I got my parts order in asap and ordered 3 SSD spools and the SSD axle tubes. Figured I would kill 2 birds with one stone while it was apart and hopefully strengthen another known weakness. Also ordered the 2 speed trans kit and went with a EcoPower 827 micro servo that comes with the adapter for the axial servo saver.


Installation went smoothly for trans but I did leave out the guide rod seeing as this has been an issue for some. Servo though small works perfectly so far will update on that over time. Rear axle diff went pretty good had to shim pinion but no biggie there and the axle tubes fit perfectly as well.

I still have to do the front diff and axle tubes but figured I would at least reassemble and test drive first so that's where it's at now getting put back together.

Did discover that the hobbywing 1080 program card works with the RTR esc which is cool as well.




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[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by SCX10 JK

Did discover that the hobbywing 1080 program card works with the RTR esc which is cool as well.


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Now that is cool. I was hoping so but haven't dug into my RYft again to program it... Is it similar settings to the 1080?

[SCX10 JK]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

Now that is cool. I was hoping so but haven't dug into my RYft again to program it... Is it similar settings to the 1080?

Yup same basic format but the numbers mean different than what the box says they are. Just check your manual for the ryft rtr it has a chart of what does what.

I changed the braking on mine and pushed startup boost to level 1 vs stock is like 6 and change lipo cutoff to a bit higher.


https://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/...-Manual-EN.pdf


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[T I N Y]

Nice start to a cool build thread, Buddy...

[SCX10 JK]

Originally Posted by T I N Y

Nice start to a cool build thread, Buddy...

Thanks

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[SCX10 JK]

Got a quick run in tonight for about 15 min. Shifts fine everytime so far and man this thing is way too fast lol. Reprogrammed the esc some more and that tamed it down a little in low gear to a point that it's a decent trail speed. That with very light avc correction makes for a fun little trail runner for now. The plan is still to go brushed and go more crawler/trail runner.

Only thing I can't get over is how loud the brushless is it's so loud and cogs at really low speeds sounds like skipping gear is this normal? I don't do too much with brushless motors so wasn't sure on this. Yeah my yeti and yeti xl make similar noise but seem a bit smoother and quieter. Double checked the gears and every thing is super smooth so assuming it just the motor and maybe the 2 speed slop making the racket. Soon as it gets rolling it smooths out and quiets down.


So far I'm happy with the investment. Still with fixes and upgrades I have less than a new one and can probably squeeze a HW 1080 and HH crawlmaster sport in it and still be less than a new one.



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[lonleycreeper]

Yes the motor is super loud, and cogs really hard.

I have other non sensored systems that are much smoother, and much quieter... It has to do with esc programing, and # of poles the motor has.

[SCX10 JK]

Thought would a HW fusion or the spectrum equivalent be too small to run the Ryft? Anyone try this? Thinking to try this and if it doesn't work I'll toss that into my scx10.2 and steal the hw1080 out with a hh 550 45t. In all fairness the rig isn't that heavy but with the high gearing I didn't know if it would just be too much for it to handle.

If this would work which kv would be best 1200kv 1400kv 1800kv or 2300kv?

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[SCX10 JK]

Small update not sure what to make of it yet but I'll post pictures and such. Decided to clean the diffs up and see what might have caused the center diff to fail. What I found was this.

Center diff did have 2 shims but was missing an o ring and one of the shims has a serious lip to it as well and is bent towards the middle. I assume that the bending was caused by the lack of the o ring. The lip was on the gear end and it's was bent away from the gear towards the case. Also noted that the rear diff main gears are a different color too not sure if this was anodizing or from the hardening process. The gear that is almost silver took the most damage and the other has a slightly dark color took less damage. The rear diff had no noticeable wear at all.

Also a side note purple power turned a transmission gear bluish purple........




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[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by SCX10 JK

Thought would a HW fusion or the spectrum equivalent be too small to run the Ryft? Anyone try this? Thinking to try this and if it doesn't work I'll toss that into my scx10.2 and steal the hw1080 out with a hh 550 45t. In all fairness the rig isn't that heavy but with the high gearing I didn't know if it would just be too much for it to handle.

If this would work which kv would be best 1200kv 1400kv 1800kv or 2300kv?

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I run with a guy who has the HW 1800kv axe system in his wraith and it has okay power, not quite the punch the stock system has, but it is very smooth. I suspect the Fusion would be very similar in power. Not overwhelming but definately no slouch.

Btw locked up axles tame the beat by quite a bit. I am very impressed with the difference.

[SCX10 JK]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

I run with a guy who has the HW 1800kv axe system in his wraith and it has okay power, not quite the punch the stock system has, but it is very smooth. I suspect the Fusion would be very similar in power. Not overwhelming but definately no slouch.

Btw locked up axles tame the beat by quite a bit. I am very impressed with the difference.

Yeah the difference alone in locking the center and rear was noticeable for sure. I think for a little while at least I will try and run the front with a diff. I have been investigating the diff some and I think that I might have figured something out with it that will help keep it working no matter what I throw at it. I'm going to do some more messing with it and I'll update if it works and what I did to fix it.



Good to know on the 540 based brushless setups I wasn't sure how well the would power something of this size,but again if I am making this a crawler then mass power is not as necessary.


Thanks for the input!

[SCX10 JK]

I really need another set of axles so that I can test this thing easier I'm really dreading taking it apart every single time to make changes or test stuff lol.


This has also got me thinking to swap out my front locker in my speed bomber for my sons rear diff in his smt10 ...............

[lonleycreeper]

Personally, I would just lock it up, and call it good, dont bother playing with the diffs. It tames this rig so much I cannot recomend it enough.

[SCX10 JK]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

Personally, I would just lock it up, and call it good, dont bother playing with the diffs. It tames this rig so much I cannot recomend it enough.

Well too late sorta its apart now and I'm messing with diff. Lol

Well I'll probably lock it anyways but was mostly curious as to why the mass failures. Bottom line I believe that Axial made a mistake in the tolerances on the diff cup. I have 5 stock .3mm shims in the diff right now and it still spins freely. Granted i have no play now other than the little bit that the o-rings allow which in my opinion is perfect tolerances. Still 5 .3mm shims that is what 1.5mm that pretty far off on the tolerances as far as I'm concerned. The teeth of these diff gears are barely 1 to 1.1 mm deep so that much slop its a wonder they even engage at all. I'll post a picture or two showing that 5 shims barely clears the top of the diff cup but when you add the diff gasket you really could stand to add another .1 to .2 shim to take up the tiny bit of movement that the gasket allows. There is no reason that the tolerances should be that far off and whats worse is that as the o-rings degrade over time each 0-ring is 1mm thick so lose one of those your screwed..........seems like the ball was completely dropped here.


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[lonleycreeper]

Lol... I get it. and that sucks. Personally I did not want to mess with diffs, and planned on replacing them as soon as I blew them up, it didn't take long.

I got some vid of my buddies Wraith with the 1800 kv Axe system in it...

https://youtu.be/ZxeN5JARKvE

[SCX10 JK]

Not sure how well you can see in the pics but that's 5 shims in order to get it adjusted correctly. I put the ring gear back on and tightened it down and the diff spins smoothly. I took a file to the old center gears that were shot and they seem pretty hard so probably if shimmed properly they will hold up well.

But as lonleycreeper has suggested I'm tossing a SSD spool in the front to try and tame the beast.

Also adding the SSD front axle tubes as well I'll post a couple pics later tonight on those.




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[SCX10 JK]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

Lol... I get it. and that sucks. Personally I did not want to mess with diffs, and planned on replacing them as soon as I blew them up, it didn't take long.

I got some vid of my buddies Wraith with the 1800 kv Axe system in it...

https://youtu.be/ZxeN5JARKvE

Wow I'm assuming that's on 3s? Seems like its got quite a bit of power there. I think that that might work well with the 2 speed gearing option. Thanks for that it was very helpful to see.

[SCX10 JK]

Well everything went together smoothly. Hopefully fully locked up with spools in all 3 locations and axle tubes front and rear will help prevent breakage. Hopefully I will get a chance to test it out tomorrow after I pick up a work bench for my hobby room. It will be so nice to have a proper work area vs a portable 24"x32" folding work table.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions and words of wisdom.







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[SCX10 JK]

Well I have to say I am very impressed with the durability of this thing. I took it for a spin in the yard for about 2 hrs on 3s. The spools worked great and really tamed it down to a reasonable level. I will say that I was in 1st gear most of the time. It still had tons of speed but was very easy to handle. Managed to do several cartwheels with it and nothing was broken or cracked at all.



I think that while I enjoy the speed aspect of it that I will still follow in Tiny's footsteps and go brushed and see how well it does. I figure if i don't like it I can always go back to the brushless. May also consider a sensored brushless setup to get the best of everything but for now I have a brushed setup that I can swap in.


Right now I'm just waiting on the pinion adapter and another motor plate to modify for brushed.