Xirtic's Titan X-Trail (First Try at a 2.2 Scaler)

[xirtic]

Here is my first try at a 2.2 Scaler.

I am using mostly parts that I had already, and only have purchased the Parma Nissan Titan Body & the X-Trail Chassis. The goal of this was to build a scaler that would work using as much of my existing parts as possible.

Parts List:
- X-trail Chassis (TCS)
- Axial Axles (CKRC)
- Novak Goat System (RCSLOT)
- RC4WD R2D Transmission - 8 tooth pinion (RC4WD)
- R2D Dig Servo Mount & Linkage (CKRC)
- Delrin Skid drilled for the R2D (TCS)
- Futaba BLS352 Brushless Servo for Steering (Won at SCRC Comp)
- Cen Skyion 144oz Servo for Dig (Leftover throttle servo from a Cen brushless conversion)
- 4 Link Front Plate/Servo Mount (TCS)
- 4 Link Rear Plate (TCS)
- Aluminum 98mm Straight Lower Links Front and Rear (Axial)
- Solid Aluminum Upper Links (Rocksmith Engineering)
- Titanium Upper and Lower Steering Links (Rocksmith Engineering)
- RC4wd Punisher Drive Shafts (RC4WD)
- Aluminum Front Axle C's (CKRC)
- Aluminum Front Axel Hubs (CKRC)
- Aluminum Rear Straight Axle Adapter (RCP)
- Hardened Steel Axle Gears Front & Rear (Axial)
- Cromoly Steel Lockers Front and Rear
- HR Aluminum Shocks - Run Droop(CKRC)
- Axial Chrome Beadlocks (Won from SCRC Comp)
- Kreep Krawler Red Foams in Front (RCC Vendor)
- Panther Memory Foams in Rear (RPP)
- Losi Crawlers Front and Rear (Won from SCRC Comp)
- STRC 12mm Aluminum Clamp-on Hex (A-Main Hobbies)
- Parma Nissan Titan Lexan Body (RCSLOT)
- HPI Body Mounts (RCSLOT)
- Spektrum SR3000 RX (Barnyard)
- eFlight 7.4v 1250mah Lipo (RCSLOT)
- 1/4" Delrin Custom Chassis Braces (McMaster Carr)
- 1/8" Custom Lexan Electronics Tray (Lowes)
- Spektrum DX3.0 TX (Killer Hobbies)


This morning I started this build and ended today with a running truck. I am waiting for the body and body mounts to arrive mid-week. This build went VERY quickly. I am guessing that it took a total of 3 hours to get it to this point, and the body/paint may take another 30-60 minutes. 4 hours to get a decent truck from stuff laying around is not a bad deal in my book. Here is where this build stands.....I will post more once the body gets finished later this week. Here are the pics (Pardon the quality....I only had my BlackBerry with me)

[jetboat]

Basically your 08 comp rig with a new chassis. Should be fun. You should look into some short "sprung" shocks for a little more realism.

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by jetboat

Basically your 08 comp rig with a new chassis. Should be fun. You should look into some short "sprung" shocks for a little more realism.

More or less...yes. SCRC members knew that truck. This variant uses different steering servo, shocks, lower links, wheels, tires, RX, skid, bracing, and electronics configuration. I am toying with the idea of a set of RC4WD 90mm scale shocks with internal springs. I just followed the shock recommendations from the TCS build thread.

I kept the Losi Shocks, links, and Reign Chassis from the comp rig out of this build in case I decide that the 09 Comp rig is not to my liking. I could remove the Zero-T and then drop in these parts pretty quickly.

[wojin]

sittin pretty high, it will never work!!

i think you will be suprised how well it works. mine was making lines some other stock axials had trouble with

[xirtic]

Been playing with this without the body adjusting the link placement and have it dialed in pretty well. I have never been all that happy with the wheel speed created by the R2D trans with it's stock 8 tooth pinion and the Goat System on 7.4v. In a comp crawler that was only meant to really creep along, it was GREAT....the torque is super. But in this build it needs a little more speed. I switched the 8 tooth to a 12 tooth and WOW this thing moves on that 7.4v Lipo. It also seems that I have not sacrificed low speed control or any real torque. This is a nice little change. All that remains is to have the body arrive and then paint it. I hate waiting.

[xirtic]

The Titan Body & body posts showed up in the mail today. So I had to fit the posts, and cut/trim the body. It is going to go to paint tomorrow. Finally decided on Pactra Pearl White. Here is the clear body on the truck.

[xirtic]

OK....so the body is painted. Let me just say that I am NOT doing pearl white again. It looks pretty poor up close. In the pics it looks like I planned. So here they are.

[xirtic]

1 day....and I really hate the Titan body. It is too long, and the bad Pearl White is driving me crazy. So what was I to do???? Simply, I got a 1972 Chevy Body, and painted it simple metallic black. THIS looks better. Even up-close the paint looks good. It may need a front bumper, but that ought to be pretty easy to find. Here are the pics.

[heminutt]

looks nice

[wojin]

you bringing it tomorrow?

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by wojin

you bringing it tomorrow?

Yes.

[LEROY]

i used the same body on my scale truck and love it ,yes they do need bumpers, it will look much better,i cut open about half of my drivers side window just for looks,i just dont know how to post pics yet, but i will try

[lonecrawler]

The chevy body really brings it togather, wasn't diggin the titan body. sweet rig.

[Ced RC]

That Chevy Body is SO Much better. Nice clean looking rig as usual

[gyrene]

The Chevy body does look so much better. I was thinking, at one time,
about getting a Titan body but I'm not sure now I like the looks of it.

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by Ced RC

That Chevy Body is SO Much better. Nice clean looking rig as usual

Thanks. The Chevy body was so much a better fit. It really finished off the build nicely.

Originally Posted by gyrene

The Chevy body does look so much better. I was thinking, at one time,
about getting a Titan body but I'm not sure now I like the looks of it.

The Titan is tooooo long by 2" or so. IT does not fit well.

[xirtic]

Well, I have been driving this truck for the past 5-6 months, and really like how it has been performing. I have made some changes, but they have been mostly to make it a bit more "scale".

1. I replaced the DROOP HR Shocks with some RC4WD Bruiser Shocks (Internally Sprung) These added more of a scale look, as well as a more real type of ride/suspension.

2. I flipped the RC4WD R2D Transmission so that it allows RWD and 4WD....NO DIG. It works just like a real truck.

3. I sealed the RX and ESC in a CEN buggy electronics box to protect them from water.

4. Added LED Headlights and Tail Lights for realism.

5. Attached a proline fake plastic winch to the front of the frame....until I get a mechanical one.

6. Replaced the Axial Aluminum Straight Links (3mm hardware) with "My" links....1/4" delrin tube filled with 4mm threaded rod, and capped with REVO ends. This change let me tweak the WB to a better fit to the body....as well as give me some stronger, slicker, and heavier down low links.


Here are the current pics:

[sally1800]

Rig looks good. I like those C-10's:-P As for the light I would get one of those pro-line light racks. cut some off and shoe goo them in to the body. It will look alot more real.Then drill holes into the back. I use a dremil with the round sanding tool to fit them into the body. It is almost a prefect fit. You do know what a dremil is right?

[Ty@Tekin]

The Proline light bars come with two separate lights for the Western Bumper, that's what I used for my headlights and rear fogs.

[sally1800]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

The Proline light bars come with two separate lights for the Western Bumper, that's what I used for my headlights and rear fogs.

so you bought two kit. :? I think having those lights on top scare me they look like there going to break right off