Brought it Home..DTX cliffclimber RTR [Archive]

jetboat

08-03-2008, 03:10 PM

Its been sitting at the shop for about a week so I finally decided to go get it... Heres a couple pics before I start tearing into it, hasnt even had a pack into it yet (on the charger).

Dual 380 motors
stock esc
dual lipo 2s (4s total)
stock servo (until I can pop the hs645mg in)http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1806.jpg

As you can see the electronics have to be moved.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1807.jpg

dezfan

08-03-2008, 03:14 PM

Cool, hope mine arrives soon!"thumbsup"

jetboat

08-03-2008, 03:24 PM

Bug Body looks like a good fit... all the body/wheel lines match up to the stock body.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1809.jpg

dezfan

08-03-2008, 03:31 PM

How about a shot next to a 2.2?

jetboat

08-03-2008, 03:58 PM

Right 16" wb super
Left 12.5" 2.2 comp truck
Middle DTX

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1811.jpg

dezfan

08-03-2008, 04:17 PM

Cool, it's a bit larger than I had pictured."thumbsup"

jetboat

08-03-2008, 04:35 PM

Im VERY Dissapointed with the truck... Clod stall is horrible, front axle is either broken or has an open diff, wheel speed is stupidly fast.... Video of first 1min of "driving" the truck uploading now

Edit: heres the vid
http://www.hobbyzip.com/videos/404/dtx-cliff-climber.html

cartronicshn

08-03-2008, 05:05 PM

:shock::-(, that looked really terrible, so much for the anticipation of mine coming in.

Georgerm

08-03-2008, 05:15 PM

that is really bad.

Rockthrasher

08-03-2008, 05:24 PM

Not impressed at all. :roll::-(:x

dezfan

08-03-2008, 05:27 PM

Is that w/ the stock (2) 6 cell batteries?

The front axle is definitely either open or there is an issue w/ it?

bigflex

08-03-2008, 06:32 PM

I like the body anyways. is it comp leagal? whats the length?

rn38

08-03-2008, 07:38 PM

slap in a dig and when it stalls when you dont want it just hit the dig."thumbsup"

run2jeepn

08-03-2008, 10:59 PM

Alright that sucked... I'd like to know about that front axle.. Locked or open... If it's open.. Lock it up and shot another Video. The Stall is coming from the Weak motors with not enough gearing and Voltage. Try Gearing down and volting up if you can. Maybe they will come out with some Higher turn 380 motors for these. What turn are they stock?

CreamLad

08-04-2008, 02:09 AM

That looks poo - a real lame effort crawler - shouldn't have bothered designing it. If you want a smaller crawler anyone, go with the Losi, they know what they are doing.

jetboat

08-04-2008, 06:24 AM

Dont know the turn on the motors but according to JRH they are 1000kv units

The batteries were stock AE rc18 packs, they were all I had charged at the time. Im going to blame battery power for the stall for now but, it was horrible really made me think I wasted my money.

I might try pulling the front axle apart tonight but, I only got about 45min sleep last night so we will see how I feel when I get home.

Didnt measure the body, to me its kind of homely, Ill be replacing it asap.

The video was the first run with the truck ever, took it out of the box and back to my little rock garden... Im hoping there is some setup I can do to work on it.... I had such high hopes for this truck out of the box, hopefully mine is a defective first run unit and other wont have the same problems, Ill be getting a losi in a couple weeks so I am crossing my fingers on it.

CreamLad

08-04-2008, 07:15 AM

I might get myself a Losi too, just for fun with the baby when I'm playing with mine, and to keep him from wanting to drive mine off cliff-faces ;)

jdawg53

08-04-2008, 08:39 AM

Its not possible to have an open "diff" in the truck. The gears are all solid. Check to make sure the front motor leads didn't come un plugged. There is definately something wrong there.

dpdsurf

08-04-2008, 08:44 AM

Comeon guys don't send it down the river yet! He said it was the 1st minute running the thing. Have none of your ever had an RC that did not perform flawlessly the first time you ran it before? I look forward to a new video showing a better performance, I don't believe the first vid represents the truck. "thumbsup"

jetboat

08-04-2008, 08:56 AM

Its not possible to have an open "diff" in the truck. The gears are all solid. Check to make sure the front motor leads didn't come un plugged. There is definately something wrong there.

Didnt think it was possible but, when it gets in a bind (or any kind of climb) that front right tire spins like mad and the left just stops. When I hold it I can spin the left front just like an open diff.... realy not happy to have broken parts straight out of the box. That rear motor stalling out on climbs really was ticking me off. I tried driving the truck for about 30 secs after the video shut off, I got pretty ticked at it pretty fast. I did however manage to keep myself from throwing it across the yard....

Hey Jdawg53... any word on lower turn motors???

jdawg53

08-04-2008, 09:47 AM

The only way it is possible for one wheel to spin and not the other is if something is broke. Is there any kind of clicking? Is the dogbone popping out on the side thats not turning? A reviewer had an issue where he had to put an o-ring in the outer cup to keep the dogbone from moving back and forth in the joints.
We are working with someone for optional motors. Hopefully soon.
If you find you have broken part let me know.
J

jetboat

08-04-2008, 09:53 AM

yup, I sure did hear a clicking... dogbone issues were my first thought when I looked at the parts diagrahm

I just want to add, this is Duratrax first attempt at a crawler and a first release, lets not beat up on them too much yet, Im sure there are some machining issues that need worked out. I think with some CVD's and a straight axle adapter these axles would make a great low budget version of the berg

jetboat

08-04-2008, 04:43 PM

problem #1 found the problem with the front axle is the dogbone coming out of the cup... I see 2 possible solutions:
1 Someone needs to make some CVD's
2 Use a spacer of some sort in the hub (O ring or spring)

Honestly this is the first time I have pulled apart an axle from anything that runs dogbones and it didnt have a spring in it that is ment to keep the bone pushed in.

You cant see it in the picture very well but it did chew up the cup a little

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1815.jpg

Tons of screws to get the axle apart and it doesnt have an adjustable motor mount!!!!!!

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1814.jpg

Inside shot of the axles (Im sure someone will ask for it)

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1816.jpg

Its not up and running yet, the #35 o-rings I had on hand were too big so Ill stop tomorrow for some new smaller ones. Also I went ahead and pulled the rear servo off and am trying to figure out a good lockout. Rear steer is a fun novalty but its pointless on something this short.

CVD's , steel gears and a better motor and I can see this truck being great for a 1.9" class.

BoredGord

08-04-2008, 04:58 PM

Bug Body looks like a good fit... all the body/wheel lines match up to the stock body.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1809.jpg

is this the HPI bug body?

jdawg53

08-04-2008, 05:00 PM

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVFK0&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVFJ9&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVFK1&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVFJ1&P=7

Do you have any o-rings out of an old pair of shocks? That should work or cut a small piece of fuel tubing.

jdawg53

08-04-2008, 05:06 PM

Forgot to mention we also have a rear steer lockout coming.
J

JavelinSST390

08-04-2008, 05:18 PM

Wow... after seeing it in action, I'm suddenly less happy about winning one... oh, well, once I figure out how to put some 540 motors on it we'll be in business!

jetboat

08-04-2008, 05:55 PM

yes...hpi bug Body...Thanks Jdawg...hadnt seen those... Now I run for cover, the TV just said a tornado is coming this way....fun"thumbsup"

sgil2001

08-04-2008, 06:50 PM

Forgot to mention we also have a rear steer lockout coming.
J

Good. I'm not too happy with the rear steer on mine. It's very loose and sloppy.

RCMFMaxxMan

08-04-2008, 07:12 PM

well it looks decent width for 2.2 also. is the width comparable to a tlt? it looks like it could be. Well out of the box it isn't that impressive but I can't see anything that can't be fixed, so lots of room for improvement. I'll give duratrax a hand for just trying to make something and it really looks like it has potential. I think the only thing I can see that can't be fixed is the axles look a little boxy (at least can't be fixed without aftermarket parts. which would probably be aluminum and I wouldn't want aluminum for axles if I can avoid it). so some things to improve on but still thumbsup duratrax.

where is traxxas? first hobby level rc was a stampede and i have loved traxxas ever since. They will pretty much be the last to jump on the wagon. I can't really see any other companies jumping in.

jdawg53

08-04-2008, 08:12 PM

Yes, the rear steering linkage is sloppy due to the standoff required. However, depending on what your plans are you can get a servo reverser lead
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFN1&P=7
or you can install a Hobbic CS-170
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNRN6&P=ML
which rotates in the opposite direction of the stock servo and Futaba servos. Then, install the same style linkage as used on the front. This takes all of that slop out. Just depends on if you were going to upgrade the servos anyways which route to take.
Another option is like Jet is going to do and that is eliminate the rear steer.

Hope this helps guys.
J

mysharona

08-04-2008, 08:43 PM

where is traxxas? first hobby level rc was a stampede and i have loved traxxas ever since. They will pretty much be the last to jump on the wagon. I can't really see any other companies jumping in.

I think if the losi is a hit and they produce a competitive 1/10 scale, we might just see Traxxas and Associated jump on the crawler scene.

As for the footage of the Duratrax, I am actually somewhat Impressed. yeah, thats right impressed. I honestly didn't thing the Duracrap would move :lol:. You all may be excited to get one, but I think that this one truck will be a huge blow to the hobby.

.02

JohnRobHolmes

08-04-2008, 08:44 PM

BILLYGOAT

08-04-2008, 09:14 PM

You can use just the battery that is labeled as number 2 on the ESC, and then short the first battery leads. It will crawl at a normal pace then.

Mine is still crawling strong stock. About time to start modding it since I am used to how it drives now.

I THINK THIS TRUCK HAS POTENTIAL. HEY JRH,WHAT ARE YOU THINKING? TEKIN FXR AND 11V LIPO? OR DO YOU HAVESOME SNEEKY MOTORS IN THE WORKS.

JohnRobHolmes

08-04-2008, 09:29 PM

Sneeky motors. I haven't been able to test the stock ESC, but it doesn't have a lipo cutoff.

mysharona

08-04-2008, 09:38 PM

sneeky motors? do I hear a call for mini colbalts :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:?

You could pickup a couple of Reedy 19turn rc18 motors and rewind them for say 45 turns or so.

BILLYGOAT

08-04-2008, 10:08 PM

Now I Would Be Up For That. Metal Gears Some 35t Or 45t And A Lipo Ready Esc. I Think It Will Be Time To Buy One If Motors Are Availible. Mini Cobalts Would Be A Dream Come True .

Fobby

08-05-2008, 02:54 AM

Guess its not that good eh? 1 minute and the thing breaks? Guess those videos must the factory ringers. I thought it would be good out of the box. I was planning to get this or the cr-01 since they are the most hated/ignored crawlers. I feel that they have lots of potential.

Why was this even purchased as an RTR? Maybe it was free? This is rccrawler and going with anything RTR is just not cool. Actually RTR's aren't ever good at all to begin with.

The axles don't look too impressive. Seems like it could've been more sleek and with less material. Again this is only ONE review.

I remember there was one picture of this crawler at an office meeting with a bunch of Duratrax Corporation execs wearing their suit and ties (and probably held at an asian country?). Seems like they approve of this product. Makes you wonder just how many of them are real rc crawlers or even know anything about it. $_$

jetboat

08-05-2008, 07:40 AM

Survived the storms last night.....

Dont count the this little truck out... I was very unimpressed out of the box but, like the TLT it needs some aftermarket parts to be great. The nice thing is, talking with Jdawg53, Duratrax is on the ball and is making CVD's, rear lockouts etc. I think if you really take a hard look at the axles of this truck you will find them to be clods that are designed for a 2.2 class truck.
Im still dealing with some major stall on my rear axle but, I have ideas for that.

In my opinion, take it for what you want, buy the ARR for the axles if nothing else...sure is allot cheaper than a berg

JRH.. are you just shorting the + and - leads together on battery #1 ??

jdawg53

08-05-2008, 08:14 AM

Jet
Glad to hear you didn't end up in OZ :)
If you have any problems feel free to pm me. I will do whatever I can.

JRH give me a call at work when you get a minute.

J

sgil2001

08-05-2008, 09:26 AM

jdawg. Is the rear lockout coming out soon, or is it something we will have to wait months for?

I can see some potential with the CC. It just needs a few tweaks.

jdawg53

08-05-2008, 10:25 AM

I tested it and approved it several months ago. I will check and see when it is due to come in and let you know.
J

jetboat

08-05-2008, 01:06 PM

new video...o-rings in front hubs work great. The rear axle is still stalling out. Also, this run was done with 1 cheapo rc18 1100mah pack. I also tried it with a 3s lipo but the rear motor still stall's. I almost think the problem is my rear motor not true "clod stall"

http://www.hobbyzip.com/videos/408/duratrax-cliff-climber.html

Rear Lockout installed:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1819.jpg

My redneck battery shorting:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1818.jpg

sgil2001

08-05-2008, 01:42 PM

Mine seems to run just fine. The only gripe I have is the slop in the rear steer. I'll lockout the rear and ditch the rear servo as soon as the parts become available.

I'm running mine with 2 hitec 645MG servos, Mamba 25 ESC, Dimension Engineering Park BEC, and 2 cell Lipo. I had to rewire the motors to get everything to work, but everything works fine now and the speed seems comparible to my Axial Scorpion. I'll try to get out on the rocks tomorrow for the real test.

sgil2001

08-05-2008, 02:24 PM

Ok.. I just installed a homemade rear lockout (like jetboat) and now its much more pleasant to drive.

I'll try to get some vids up soon.

RCMFMaxxMan

08-05-2008, 04:38 PM

...Mamba 25 ESC...

you are running dual brushless? what motors are you using?

sgil2001

08-05-2008, 04:41 PM

you are running dual brushless? what motors are you using?

No, the stock 380's. I downloaded the most recent firmware for my Mamba 25. Now it can do brushed or brushless.

sgil2001

08-05-2008, 04:44 PM

I just ran mine on some big rocks at the local state park. I'm also noticing considerable stall of the rear axle on difficult climbs and tight spots. I took off the stock wheels/tires and replaced them with some Proline Eight shooters and Flat Irons (4 oz lead in each).

I'm still running a 2 cell 1500 lipo. I wonder if a 3 cell lipo would be better?

Harvo

08-05-2008, 08:24 PM

OK Jetboat... I'm beginning to think after watching those 2 videos, that your driving is whats making the truck look so bad ;-)

Just kidding :D Big improvement between last video and this one in the way it works!

JavelinSST390

08-05-2008, 08:32 PM

Ditto... The first video really made me wonder, but the second one really impressed me.

I've always been skeptical of these things since I heard "two 380 motors".

But the second video makes it look much more capable.

flexmonger

08-05-2008, 09:53 PM

I think if he was to place the tires on the rock as opposed to the front diff the thing could crawl further. :lol:But the second video does show vehicle improvement.

jetboat

08-06-2008, 06:24 AM

I knew there would be comments on my driving!! Its not easy to film and drive at the same time while swatting mosquitos.

I have tried single stick pack, 2s lipo, 3s lipo, dual stick packs and dual 2s lipo.... all had the same result. I am going to try adding about 8" of wire to the rear motor. That should even out the amp load. (or maybe its the front motor I need to do that to....)

you'll also notice in the most recent pics that I pulled the bumpers off the front and rear axle.... really helps.

nmanuel01

08-06-2008, 07:27 AM

have you tried any of the Mini lst bodies on it?

jdawg53

08-06-2008, 07:38 AM

Jet
One of the first things I did was pull the bumpers.
I'm sure most of you know this but pull one of the batts out of the chassis and velcro it onto the steering servo. We also have a carbon fiber battery/servo mount plate option part you can use.
As far as bodies, I have used the J Concepts rock steady
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUUB0&P=7
and the Proline rockstar
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTYL2&P=ML
for a scale look the RJ Speed body is good
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUYX9&P=ML
J

jdawg53

08-06-2008, 07:42 AM

Here is a shot of my Cliff Climber with the J Concepts Rock Steady

jetboat

08-06-2008, 08:47 AM

as soon as I can get this stalling figured out im going to build mine into a comp rig... I wish there was a good way to mount a stick chassis.

hairba11

08-06-2008, 10:51 AM

I had found some gear reduction units that look like gd-600's, but fit a 380 size can on ebay a year or so ago, think something like that could help?

jetboat

08-06-2008, 11:58 AM

graupner and several others make 380 reductions...Im just not sure there is room. What we are fighting with is typical clod stall.... a way around it is to use 2 esc but I dont wnat to do that

sgil2001

08-06-2008, 12:43 PM

I'd like to add some weight to the stock wheels. I tried to get the tires off the wheels, but I haven't had any luck. Those things are really glued on. I've been running debonder around the rims for the last hour. Still can't get them to budge.

jetboat

08-06-2008, 01:29 PM

throw them in the oven at 225* for aboiut 15 mins they'll come right off no harm done

sgil2001

08-06-2008, 01:41 PM

throw them in the oven at 225* for aboiut 15 mins they'll come right off no harm done

Ok. I'll give it a try. thanks

Harvo

08-06-2008, 05:20 PM

jetboat

08-07-2008, 06:10 AM

How are you going to turn it into a comp rig? From your pics it looks like you would have to make huge links to get the WB. Or just scrap the chassis and use another. What are your plans for the comp rig thing??? just curious.

Im working on plans for a stick chassis... Im finding mounting it to the axles to be slightly difficult.

hairba11

08-07-2008, 10:15 AM

could you use the raised portions the links and shocks mount to on the top axle case and make a BMV-II style torsion chassis?

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jshirley78/IMG_1819.jpg

sgil2001

08-07-2008, 11:20 AM

I had mine out today for just the third time. Now when I try to climb a rock the right front spins, left front stalls and clicks and doesn't move, and rears stall and do nothing. What a disappointment. I should have returned the thing before I put it together.

jetboat

08-07-2008, 11:47 AM

JohnRobHolmes

08-07-2008, 11:50 AM

You could set it up droop style pretty easily. The suspension would actually be great stock, but droop sprung.

hairba11

08-07-2008, 11:57 AM

oh, sorry, forgot the difference between the stick and the cane

sgil2001

08-07-2008, 12:23 PM

the o-rings in the axles will take care of the popping.... cvd's are the real cure but unknown when they will be in-stock. As for the stalling, im going to work on the electronics on mine after the comp this weekend. If nothing else these might make great axles Donors once they are outfited properly.

BMV II chassis would be nothing to make with these axles... I just dont like torsion chassis

I'll try the O-rings in the axles. If I could get all 4 tires turning I think this thing would be a decent crawler. I've had good luck with duratrax in the past. I've owned 3 Evaders, a Mini-Quake, and a Vendetta. All were great vehicles. The Cliff Climber is just getting me frustrated. I just discovered that I forgot to take the protective covering off the body before I put the stickers on. I had it looking really nice with all the stickers, and now the covering is coming off so I'll have to rip them all off.

cartronicshn

08-07-2008, 12:58 PM

What size pinions do these things have? i ordered mine and i should recieve it this weekend and i don't know anything about it:roll:, if clodstall is that bad ,maybe gear down on the rear diff and bolt up to help with the stall.

jetboat

08-07-2008, 01:41 PM

sgil2001

08-07-2008, 01:45 PM

the problem with gearing down on the rear is that it doesnt have an adjustable motor mount... there is some play but not much.

What realy kind of sucks is that we are the first people to ever have this truck so we get to work out all the bugs... Not like clods or TLT's were people have been running them for years and they have a huge amount of tips and tricks out there. Thinl of it as being a pioneer in the field "thumbsup"

Yeah. I know what you mean. My next step it to try a two esc setup. I've never done that in a car before. I've been an airplane guy for 25 years and just dabbled in cars. Since I discovered crawling I've been hooked.

Do you just use a Y connector to hook both esc's into the receiver? I assume you would power each one with its own battery pack and disable the BEC on one of them. Is that correct? Or am I way off base?

jetboat

08-07-2008, 02:40 PM

JohnRobHolmes

08-07-2008, 03:02 PM

Gearing is mod .6, 2.3mm stock pinion bore.

sgil2001

08-07-2008, 04:36 PM

I believe you will actually need to run the 2 esc's off 2 channels (using a stick radio). Thats how everyone I know runs them. The advantage of doing this is front and rear dig is super easy.
I think before I went overboard with 3 esc's I would try making a radio plate or modding the current so you can drop a tooth on the rear motor.

You're probably right. No sense spending too much on this. I wonder if my battery (2 cell 1500 Lipo) or ESC (mamba 25) are part of the problem. Do you think another Battery or ESC might be better? I know JRH can answer this. He's the power setup expert.

JavelinSST390

08-07-2008, 04:55 PM

You can run two esc's off a y-harness, but you have to cut one of the red BEC wires on one ESC... then they'll work together.

sgil2001

08-07-2008, 05:00 PM

You can run two esc's off a y-harness, but you have to cut one of the red BEC wires on one ESC... then they'll work together.

Thats what I thought. As long as they are identical ESC's it should work.

cartronicshn

08-07-2008, 05:00 PM

Gearing is mod .6, 2.3mm stock pinion bore.
Thanks JRH"thumbsup", have any in stock?

jetboat

08-08-2008, 06:16 AM

I tried the wire loop idea that some use on clods (8" of extra wire on the rear motor) it helps but not enough.

sgil2001

08-08-2008, 12:21 PM

I'm still waiting for johnrobholmes to chime in about the 2 esc idea. He's the expert when it comes to power setups. I was always under the assumption that you could use 2 identical esc's in a y harness in the same channel. If I'm right, I'll give it a try.

jetboat

08-08-2008, 12:32 PM

you can, the problem is that it will send the same amps to both the front and rear motor resulting in no major advantage. The reason we are getting teh stall is because the esc is sending the same power front and back when in reality you need allot more power on the rear because it is under the most stress.

JohnRobHolmes

08-08-2008, 12:48 PM

sgil2001

08-08-2008, 12:52 PM

The only way to get rid of clod stall is to have independent throttles. You can use more powerful motors (amp draw) to fight the stall in the back, but you will still get a faster spinning front when the tires unload.

Ok. At least now I know. Thanks for the info.

For right now I'm going to put the 11 tooth pinion on the motors. Get a little more torque and maybe use a 3s lipo.

Bermbuster

08-08-2008, 07:03 PM

I got my CC today and I installed a mamba 25. First I wired the motors in series and it worked horrible. Next I wired it up in parallel and it performed much better. I do get the stall but only when the front axle is totally unloaded (spinning) It is fair to say that the electrons follow the path of least resistance in a parallel circuit.
I will play with it more this weekend and make my decision....on what to do with the stall. (hoping I can develop a driving style to live w it)
but I am enjoying it and I have some ideas for some hop ups (homemade)...."thumbsup"

mopar jake

08-08-2008, 11:18 PM

duratrax at it again i see i was interested in a clifclimer till i saw that lol

jetboat

08-09-2008, 05:49 AM

Bermbuster

08-09-2008, 08:56 AM

the initia reason I bought the truck was for indoor winter crawling and for that it rocks. The problems come up when you try to push the truck into comp level. Clod stall is absolutly nothing new, hence the CLOD in CLODstall. If you do a search you will find that there are several tricks to it. Once DTX releases an adjustable motor mount we will be able to drop a tooth on the rea easily and that should fix 80% of the problem. Some higher torque motors wll help a ton but wont cure it as the amp draw wont change.
I was thinking of tring an esc from the MLST. It has leads for 2 motors.
I am not sure if the power is seperated in the electronics or not. I gotta get a hold of my buddy I think he has the speedo in his pitbox....
I like the CC and I will figure a way to make it work....even if i need 2 speedos and a stick tx...."thumbsup"

frdtrkguy

08-09-2008, 10:09 AM

Guessing ther isnt enough room to shoehorn in some 540 motors? Thinkin about getting one...

hairba11

08-09-2008, 10:32 AM

I was thinking of tring an esc from the MLST. It has leads for 2 motors.
I am not sure if the power is seperated in the electronics or not. I gotta get a hold of my buddy I think he has the speedo in his pitbox....
I like the CC and I will figure a way to make it work....even if i need 2 speedos and a stick tx...."thumbsup"

there is no separation in the electronics, just two motor wires off the same hole in the pcb. before i got into the crawler thing I got into the minis, and had a handfull of MLSTs

in fact to get more power out of the stock setup, it was common to desolder the small metric gage double wires and replace it with single 16 gage wires and parallel the motors.

Bermbuster

08-09-2008, 04:35 PM

there is no separation in the electronics, just two motor wires off the same hole in the pcb. before i got into the crawler thing I got into the minis, and had a handfull of MLSTs

in fact to get more power out of the stock setup, it was common to desolder the small metric gage double wires and replace it with single 16 gage wires and parallel the motors.

The parallel circuit makes the rear stall way to easy....
I originally had a series circuit but my testing was on the bench (wheels elevated) and i was noticing the axles would stall under no load...
the stalling must come from the poles in the motor under no load the series circuit must open and cause the erratic movement. Once I redid the series circuit and tested it on the ground... bam....it crawls much better just slower....now it is time to volt up.....

cartronicshn

08-11-2008, 01:52 PM

The parallel circuit makes the rear stall way to easy....
I originally had a series circuit but my testing was on the bench (wheels elevated) and i was noticing the axles would stall under no load...
the stalling must come from the poles in the motor under no load the series circuit must open and cause the erratic movement. Once I redid the series circuit and tested it on the ground... bam....it crawls much better just slower....now it is time to volt up.....
Nice"thumbsup", there is hope, any updates?

twisted

08-11-2008, 06:33 PM

after reading through this thread iam undecided if this worth the money ? so clod stall and orings as spacers needed are the only problems ? or did i miss anything else ?

thanks guys.

sgil2001

08-11-2008, 06:48 PM

I have mine running pretty good now. I added 3 oz of lead to the front wheels and 1 oz to the rears. It climbs really well for its size.

I just installed the 11t pinion on the rear motor. I'm hoping it solves some of the clod stall. I still need to make a 7 and 8 cell 2/3A nimh packs for the front axle. I'm currently running a 2S lipo on the front servo. I think the increased weight of the nimhs up front will help out also. I was hoping to get a vid up by now, but I can't drive and shoot a video at the same time. I'll have to wait for help.

Stormin2u

08-11-2008, 07:03 PM

Here is a shot of my Cliff Climber with the J Concepts Rock Steady

Now that looks really good on that short wheelbase.

Warthog

08-11-2008, 08:35 PM

I got mine today, and the wheelspeed is rediculous. Will try the redneck short to slow it down. Haven't experienced rear stall yet though.

What about an EMaxx esc for twin motors? I use one on one of my Axial 2.2 rigs with 2 motors, transmissions and drive shafts. Bought this to experiment around with, and I was one of the very early TLT owners, so I kinda knew what to expect. Shouldn't have to do nearly as much to this to get a decent rig.

Looking forward to the challenge....,remember carbon arrow shafts :roll:

cartronicshn

08-13-2008, 02:59 PM

Well mine is sitting in customs until tomorrow :roll::-(, anyways for the rest of the people that already have one, post up, and any tricks you might have come up with to better the performance are greatly appreciated, might also want to get a subforum for this particular rig, which is already on the market8)

Edit: Thanks jason for the subforum and JRH for the extra work.