cartronicshn's Cliff climber

[cartronicshn]

So for now this thread goes in the general section, probably we will have our one section for these rigs pretty soon8). Anyways here are some pics of mine ARTR, i will add a sidewinder esc , 2 ch radio, lock the rear steering, try a 3s, weigh the tires, not sure on the body colors yet.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03647.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03648.jpg
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http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03651.jpg
Pics next to my comp ax-10
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03652.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03653.jpg

[JohnRobHolmes]

It is a really fun vehicle, especially for the price. Do you have other tires planned yet? I want mine to be 1.9.

[JBHardwear]

So what are your overall thoughts on the rig, does it seem to be well manufactured?.........I guess what I am asking is it cheaply built or does it seem to be a pretty durable (tough) rig?

[jetboat]

for indoor crawling the truck realy cant be beat.

Any mods planned?

[cartronicshn]

"thumbsup"It is a really fun vehicle, especially for the price. Do you have other tires planned yet? I want mine to be 1.9.
I was actually unaware these were 2.2 until i pulled it out of the box:lol:, that's just me, buying on impulse, but yes i want go with 1.9 maybe the losi mini claws when they are available.

So what are your overall thoughts on the rig, does it seem to be well manufactured?.........I guess what I am asking is it cheaply built or does it seem to be a pretty durable (tough) rig?
DTX has a reputation of building solid bashers, i haven't owned that many duratrax products, but this one looks well bulit, i try to see it as a really cheap entry level crawler that will definetly need some upgrades"thumbsup"

for indoor crawling the truck realy cant be beat.

Any mods planned?
For now just the basic, go for the 1.9 tires, call JRH for some motors and batt packs, and the o ring mod while the cvd come out"thumbsup"

[cartronicshn]

I took out mine for a crawl, and noticed the stall, i was only running a 6 cell AA pack, imho it feels like the motors are lacking low end power and the gearing is to high, i think with thicker wiring to the motors, slower motors and lower gears it would almost make the stall go away.

[cartronicshn]

Well i painted the body, my master installer Oscar(car audio), suggested a Rockford Fosgate themed paint job and he would cut out the logos, so we did it, we sell and distribute this brand among others in my country btw.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03680.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03672.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03669.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03668.jpg
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http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03666.jpg

[Fobby]

That looks great. Like the color combination.

I see that you have a comp rig next to it. I would like to see you put those wheels on the Cliff Climber.

[sgil2001]

That looks great. Like the color combination.

I see that you have a comp rig next to it. I would like to see you put those wheels on the Cliff Climber.


Those look like eritex comp heavy wheels with panther tires. I had the same wheel/tires on my Cliff Climber. It looked really odd.

[Fobby]

Oh you did? I suppose they look odd because of the short wheelbase and tiny body. Wondering if the axles could handle the larger diameter tires with heavy wheels.

[cartronicshn]

Oh you did? I suppose they look odd because of the short wheelbase and tiny body. Wondering if the axles could handle the larger diameter tires with heavy wheels.
Yeah, i don't think it would be healthy for the stock axle inners....although the aluminum upgrades coming out soon should be a different story8)

[sgil2001]

Oh you did? I suppose they look odd because of the short wheelbase and tiny body. Wondering if the axles could handle the larger diameter tires with heavy wheels.


I was afraid something would break, so I took them off. The CC doesn't even like my Proline eights shooter/flatirons with 4 oz all around. I've had the best luck with the stock tires/wheels with 3 oz lead in front and 1 oz in rear.

[cartronicshn]

I was afraid something would break, so I took them off. The CC doesn't even like my Proline eights shooter/flatirons with 4 oz all around. I've had the best luck with the stock tires/wheels with 3 oz lead in front and 1 oz in rear.
I added 1 1/2 oz of lead weights to the stock front wheels and have a 6 cell 2/3 elite pack on top of the servo, it has helped some, i am waiting on some motors from JRH and a mamba esc and it will be awesome, anyways i went to pick up the rig from the front axle with only the weight mods and the links started to bend :shock:, i can only imagine with the comp heavies on there, it would probably snap them.

[Fobby]

So it seems like the CC couldn't be really used as 2.2 hardcore crawler because the reason is its durability? But even with the metal gear upgrades installed how about the gearing? Is it even possible that a 380 at its full potential can hold its own against 540's? I'm getting the impression that the 380 does have speed but lacks torque.

I have never experienced 380's before as far as hobby class rc's.

[cartronicshn]

Fobby, first of, i would like to say you have valid questions, but the CC is an entry level crawler, it will do more or less ok in stock form, but if you want a comp crawler of some sort you have to put up the $$, for instance if wanted to put more weight and heavier wheels i would definetly have to invest in the aluminum links, better motors and possibly alumninum gears( which i am btw, as soon as i get my motors from JRH i will post up). On the motor question, i spoke over the phone with JRH and he told me the motors i am getting on 6 cell have more that enough torque not only to get the rig out of any situation but even break stuff if not driven properly.

[cartronicshn]

Well i was looking around for some links that would fit my cc (i do have a lot of aluminum rod and sleeving to make them, but i didn't feel like taking the time for that:roll:) and i stumbled into my first tlt chassis, a carbon fiber penguin8), and it had the links i needed fro the front, slightly longer, enough to get the steering to work like it should8), the rear will remain stock until the bent links come out, besides the weight is in the front, some pics, sorry for it being so dark, my camera's flash died.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03701.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03702.jpg
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[cartronicshn]

Some goodies arrived:), looks like the 7t puller had twin babies:ror:
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03706.jpg

Of course the mamba controller
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03707.jpg

And where did this sweet electronics come from? well let the stickers do the talking, you are the man John"thumbsup"
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03708.jpg

[cartronicshn]

Well the stock pinions didn't fit my new motors, and i was all out of 12t 48 pitch pinions, so i went ahead and drilled the first stock pinion but broke two in the process:x, so i pulled one 10t i had laying around and put it in the rear axle, left the 12t in the front axle, it worked until the front axle locked up, so now i am waiting for parts from tower, i got the aluminum gears and links and soem 12t pinions.

[JavelinSST390]

So could the power level of the twin mini-pullers compare to, say, a standard 55t 540 crawling motor?

I'm really looking at making my DTX my next 2.2 comp rig (with the metal-innard upgrades, of course)

[cartronicshn]

those little motors have way more low end and speed than the stockers, to much for stock internals in the diff for sure, and i only tried them on a 6 cell 2/3 nimh pack:shock:, i can only imagine the speed on 3s lipo:shock:

[cartronicshn]

Well i received some goodies for my C.C.8), bearings, aluminum links, aluminum gears and pinions, i will put them on tomorrow and post up the results"thumbsup"
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03804.jpg
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http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03802.jpg

[cartronicshn]

Well i had installed most of the upgrades and took it for a test drive, but i had a cheap am radio and it had all kinds of glitching, so i put away the truck while i got some spektrum receivers, and i took it out for another drive today and was pleasantly surprised, no glitching"thumbsup", only insane power from the jrh motors8), i did feel that the start up was kind of abrupt for these motors, i have to play a little more with the mamba settings though, and will get some vid tomorrow.8)
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03853.jpg
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[cartronicshn]

Thanks for the comment chevy"thumbsup", i have been driving this rig, and it is a lot of fun, i also lowered the body a bit and it looks better imho, i still owe you guys a video, i will get it as soon as it stops raining for a
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03877.jpg
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http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03879.jpg

[cartronicshn]

Aghh...carnage, again:-(, the only gear that is not available yet in aluminum is the weakest link now, the main gears can't take them JRH motors:lol:, i have to order some extra mains now, and the C.C. will be out of commision for a while:-(, to bad as i was really enjoying it, oh well....
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03890.jpg
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http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC03888.jpg

[jdawg53]

Don't worry. I received some samples of the metal main gear that you are talking about. They have ALOT of running on them and still look like new. I am running 454's also.
How many cells are you using? I recommend 5 cells with the stock plastic main gear. That worked very well for me.
Also, the metal main gears ARE SOLID METAL! Nice and heavy and super durable.
J

[cartronicshn]

Thanks for the good news, time frame for their availabilty? as for the cells, i know i am abusing the gears, i am running 8 cell 2/3 packs:shock:.

[jdawg53]

:lol: I tried 8 cells at first but quickly found that was too much. Especially with a drag brake.
I will check into when the gears will be available. Should be soon but will post when I have something more solid.
5-6 cells seem to work very well.
J

[sweli]

Excited to hear about the metal main gear. I only chewed one of the small teeth on the idler so far, but it was enough to know this thing needs some heavy metal.
I don't have the 454's, but 45T 370's and an ad-on gear reducer. It was enought to chew nylon.

[cartronicshn]

I been having some issues, not sure what to try first, anyways, i have some questions about the start up of these motors, they are not smooth at all, also i have experienced when the rig is in a bind and give the motors some throttle(not full) the esc will shut off, it's a mamba 25 JRH said would be fine with these 2 motors and a standard servo, at first i thought it might be the 2/3 packs didn't have enough juice so i tried one of my 4.4 mah maxamps packs and got the same result, any ideas?

[cartronicshn]

I haven't used this rig that much because of the startup problems, any ideas might be helpful, remember i am running a mamba 25 with 2 454 motors, if you look at the video the start up is all jittery and as more power is applied it becomes somewhat stable, i also have a 995 tg servo and i am running a 40mhz 4ch radio, i have tried a spektrum radio in it and same deal, so we can rule radio glitching out.

Video is being uploaded right now

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/th_MOV04008.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/?action=view&current=MOV04008.flv)

[cartronicshn]

I am still hoping someone has any ideas of why the jumpiness of this rig with these motors, i have also played with esc settings everthing from punch control, timing, etc. and no improvement, lmk your ideas, i am really dissapointed on this rig for the amount of money and time i put into it and i have maybe ran three full packs on it:-(

[richmondcrawler]

I am running the Cobalts as well with 11t pinions and a Novak Rooster Crawler Edition ESC with 2 1600mAh Duratrax NiMH packs in parallel for 7.2V. I am also using the stock receiver and don't seem to have any issues. I happen to be running the mamba ESC on my Losi mini Baja with a 5400 kV Mamba brushless with a 3C Lipo in it. With the stock Losi crap radio it is very glitchy from startup. I thought it might have been my radio, but it may have been the ESC. I played with all variety of settings using the CastleLink USB programmer, but still it can jump strangely from a standing start.

I would find someone with a different large ESC and see if you can wire some plugs to isolate the ESC component alone using of your gear and the other ESC. I can start mine on a steep climb with just a hint of juice and no jitter.

I am also running 2.2 M2K somethings that are way bigger than stock with like 3 strips of lead per tire in front and 1.5 strips per tire in the rear. Haven't blown the nylon internals yet, but my shopping cart at Tower is full of the metal stuff.

What exactly is your doing again ?

[cartronicshn]

I am running the Cobalts as well with 11t pinions and a Novak Rooster Crawler Edition ESC with 2 1600mAh Duratrax NiMH packs in parallel for 7.2V. I am also using the stock receiver and don't seem to have any issues. I happen to be running the mamba ESC on my Losi mini Baja with a 5400 kV Mamba brushless with a 3C Lipo in it. With the stock Losi crap radio it is very glitchy from startup. I thought it might have been my radio, but it may have been the ESC. I played with all variety of settings using the CastleLink USB programmer, but still it can jump strangely from a standing start.

I would find someone with a different large ESC and see if you can wire some plugs to isolate the ESC component alone using of your gear and the other ESC. I can start mine on a steep climb with just a hint of juice and no jitter.

I am also running 2.2 M2K somethings that are way bigger than stock with like 3 strips of lead per tire in front and 1.5 strips per tire in the rear. Haven't blown the nylon internals yet, but my shopping cart at Tower is full of the metal stuff.

What exactly is your doing again ?
I am that someone with a bunch of bigger esc;), what i was trying to make sure was that this esc wasn't going to work with these motors, and i was trying to cover all possibilities since this is the combo i got from JRH, and as for what it is doing, it is very glitchy form start up and the glitch does fade away with more throttle.

[STANG KILLA SS]

yeah ive been wanting to try the 454 on 5 cells, and rooster crawler. but ill wait to see if the motors are what causes the jittering cause damn there expensive.
yeah i was curious what folks were doing about the larger shaft in the 454s

[STANG KILLA SS]

also im confused, are 100% metal gears available, or is one of the gears not available in metal? only stock plastic.

[cartronicshn]

I don't think the main gear is yet available in metal:cry:

[cartronicshn]

yeah ive been wanting to try the 454 on 5 cells, and rooster crawler. but ill wait to see if the motors are what causes the jittering cause damn there expensive.
yeah i was curious what folks were doing about the larger shaft in the 454s
Well i found out the horrible jittering i had before(see video) was because i was running 48 pitch pinion on my c.c. because the duratrax pinions had to small a bore for the 454 and regular 48 pitch pinions worked well with 454 and they looked liked they were meshing properly:roll:, i finally got some novak pinions with 1/8" bore and they fit nicely on the motors and these are 0.6 pitch and these also actually mesh properly and don't bind, i have installed a 11t on the back and 12t on the front. I know have stall, but i will weigh the tires down and put up a new vid"thumbsup"

[brokenb4]

Glad you got it figured out. Hopefully you can get some use out of it now.

[3DSteve]

I just started reading this and saw you were using 48p pinions early on; that can lead to some funny noises down the road LOL Robinson Racing makes metric pinions with a 1/8" hole down the 12 teeth.

[86 Iroc]

Love the Rockford theme "thumbsup" DOWN WITH PLASTIC GEARS !!!:flipoff:

[cartronicshn]

Well i already killed one of the metal input gears:roll:, i have been trying to get this rig to work, but i am about to give up, i finally put in the novak pinions, 12t in front and 11t rear, but now the stall in the front motor is to much, it's undriveable, i thought that these motors and esc would be the ticket, but i see my friends stock motors and rooster esc are much smoother than my c.c. i have no idea what else to do, please any ideas you guys might have, i am really dissapointed on the c.c. for all the time and money i have invested in it:-(
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/th_MOV04199.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/?action=view&current=MOV04199.flv)
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/th_MOV04200.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/?action=view&current=MOV04200.flv)

[brokenb4]

What is all the clicking noise when it starts to turn? Is something binding? Does the axle spin free without the motor installed?

[spartacus_nuc]

Well i already killed one of the metal input gears:roll:, i have been trying to get this rig to work, but i am about to give up, i finally put in the novak pinions, 12t in front and 11t rear, but now the stall in the front motor is to much, it's undriveable, i thought that these motors and esc would be the ticket, but i see my friends stock motors and rooster esc are much smoother than my c.c. i have no idea what else to do, please any ideas you guys might have, i am really dissapointed on the c.c. for all the time and money i have invested in it:-(


Try the super cheap banebots motors.
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12
They rock, but make sure you give 'em at least 8 or nine cells to feed on. They're smooth and controllable, too.

[cartronicshn]

What is all the clicking noise when it starts to turn? Is something binding? Does the axle spin free without the motor installed?
No binding at all, the noise is just the pack rubbing on the tire when going forward, i just used this lipo pack to demonstrate that motors were getting full juice, it does the same with it's 2/3a packs:-(

Try the super cheap banebots motors.
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12
They rock, but make sure you give 'em at least 8 or nine cells to feed on. They're smooth and controllable, too.
I am not sure i wan't to go forward anymore with this rig:roll:;-), but thanks for your input"thumbsup"

[execelon]

have you to to john holmes about your problem?

[cartronicshn]

have you to to john holmes about your problem?
Not really his fault, i guess i was just expecting this rig to perform better with all that was invested in it.

[sweli]

i guess i was just expecting this rig to perform better with all that was invested in it.


cartronicshn, I have been at that spot for about 3 months now.

I think I have the chassis where I want it. Maybe better links.
I'm on the 2nd ESC. Mamba25 let the smoke out. Now a Superduty (overkill).
Metal spur and idler
beadlocks
Original tires trimmed. Still need better tires.
Hitec 645 servo
Dual DIG
And now I am dinking with motors. I have 8 on the bench. Have rewound 4 of them myself. Now have Banebot 390's on order. It's that feeling that you know it's not going to be a great rig anyway, so why keep dumping time and money into it.
Even if these motors work, I will need steel main gears and at least front CVDs to keep it alive. Then will come tires, longer shocks, better links, and better batteries. Not to mention trialling an 9 or 10T pinion from an obscure shop, made out of brass to see if it might, just might hit a sweet spot between speed, contorl and torque and live against the steel spur.

This is definetely my "spare time, dink with it" truck.
If it doesn't start to pan out soon, the electronics and wheels might get used somewhere else.

Done ranting. LOL
I'm going to go play with my TLT based crawler now to let the steam off.

[execelon]

Not really his fault, i guess i was just expecting this rig to perform better with all that was invested in it.



yeah but he might be able to help. it looks like it's bound up in the battery side axle. so it clod stalls, then has you throttle up it jumps forward.. and if there both free rolling and it's simple motor/esc he might have some ideas

[cartronicshn]

cartronicshn, I have been at that spot for about 3 months now.

I think I have the chassis where I want it. Maybe better links.
I'm on the 2nd ESC. Mamba25 let the smoke out. Now a Superduty (overkill).
Metal spur and idler
beadlocks
Original tires trimmed. Still need better tires.
Hitec 645 servo
Dual DIG
And now I am dinking with motors. I have 8 on the bench. Have rewound 4 of them myself. Now have Banebot 390's on order. It's that feeling that you know it's not going to be a great rig anyway, so why keep dumping time and money into it.
Even if these motors work, I will need steel main gears and at least front CVDs to keep it alive. Then will come tires, longer shocks, better links, and better batteries. Not to mention trialling an 9 or 10T pinion from an obscure shop, made out of brass to see if it might, just might hit a sweet spot between speed, contorl and torque and live against the steel spur.

This is definetely my "spare time, dink with it" truck.
If it doesn't start to pan out soon, the electronics and wheels might get used somewhere else.

Done ranting. LOL
I'm going to go play with my TLT based crawler now to let the steam off.
I hear you lol"thumbsup"

yeah but he might be able to help. it looks like it's bound up in the battery side axle. so it clod stalls, then has you throttle up it jumps forward.. and if there both free rolling and it's simple motor/esc he might have some ideas

No binding at all, the noise is just the pack rubbing on the tire when going forward, i just used this lipo pack to demonstrate that motors were getting full juice, it does the same with it's 2/3a packs:-(


I am not sure i wan't to go forward anymore with this rig:roll:;-), but thanks for your input"thumbsup"

[traxxas4fun]

someone explain what stall is?

[brokenb4]

someone explain what stall is?

basically when one axle is running and the other isn't

[jdawg53]

Well i already killed one of the metal input gears:roll:, i have been trying to get this rig to work, but i am about to give up, i finally put in the novak pinions, 12t in front and 11t rear, but now the stall in the front motor is to much, it's undriveable, i thought that these motors and esc would be the ticket, but i see my friends stock motors and rooster esc are much smoother than my c.c. i have no idea what else to do, please any ideas you guys might have, i am really dissapointed on the c.c. for all the time and money i have invested in it:-(
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/th_MOV04199.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/?action=view&current=MOV04199.flv)
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/th_MOV04200.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/?action=view&current=MOV04200.flv)

I ran mine this weekend for about 3 batt packs and I see almost NO stall (with the 454's) even on very agressive climbs and when I pull up to straight up inclines where the front is under heavy load. I am running 12f 11r (I think) as well. I am using a Novak esc and 2/3A 5-cell battery. I have tons of power and wheel speed.
Your motors are wired in parallel and not series correct?
J

[jdawg53]

someone explain what stall is?

The power wants to flow through the path of least resistance. If the rear has all the load and the front is in the air it will direct the power to the front motor causing the rear motor to have limited power.
J

[execelon]

whens it going to be for sale?

[cartronicshn]

Sorry dude, i hardly ever sell any of my rigs, i will probably just put the stock motors in and have my kid play with it and his losi mrc"thumbsup"

[cartronicshn]

well my kid didn't like this rig, he rather have my fj 40 cr-01 :lol:, so i am stuck with this rig ( and "the other one" i bought because it was so cheap i couldn't resist:mrgreen:) and i decided to try another esc, so i bought another sidewinder and i still get the annoying stall at start up, i will try and load a video later, i am thinking on looking over these motors, maybe i am getting brushed getting hunged or something like that:?.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC00009.jpg
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http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/cartronicshn/DTX%20CLIFF%20CLIMBER/DSC00011.jpg

[mattio79]

i have had my cc for about 6 months now and have done some SERIOUS modding to it.

first thing, locked out the rear steer

2nd, scrapped the cruddy rtr electronics

3rd installed a Trx Evx, yes 16.8v

got the banebots motors (the rs390s)
they are about 1mm longer than the 454s and with 16.8v, a little more torque.

so much torque, i snapped the rear axle within minutes of installing my Hotbodies Rover tires {glued :O} (i already ahve all metal gears, and stock pinions, as the banebots motors have the same shaft diameter as the cc5000s (the stockers)

the evx also allows VERY smooth throttle, even with almost no throttle, there is no jitter at all, which is amazing because the evx jitters all by itself under the lightest of throttle.

more mods: i made bent links for the rear out of 6/32 allthread and 1/4 in brakeline.

i also added Traxxas tie rods from my old emaxx (the front ones go up top, and the rear ones go on the bottom, with the stock CC chassis

i also added the 4 shocks from my old emaxx with the springs removed

result: 90+ degrees of articulation( which i intend on limiting) and 13.5" of wheelbase(yes that just happens to be the same as the NEW emaxx

and running in Droop

front steering servo is a 2075 atm with the stock, old emaxx servo saver on it, just because i had it lying around and it works well enough. i put the servo link on the inside hole on the steering knuckle and put the connecting link( the one that goes to both knuckles) on the bottom of the knuckles in the outer holes. this achieves full lock steering ( the knuckles touch the axle body now, no need for a longer servo arm or a solid servo arm for that matter.)


Batteries: turnigy 2200mah 20c 2s lipos, x2, same size as 2/3a nimh 6-cell packs, with more runtime and 5x the amps and 4x the charge speed (you can charge them at 2c (4.4A) and discharge them at 44A sustained. (if you try that with 2/3 a cells you will be in for a smoky surprise)

i attempted to charge a 2/3a 6-cell pack at 4A. it actually blew up (vented) the Turnigy (found at www.hobbycity.com (http://www.hobbycity.com)) won't even warm up
(no i do not work for Turnigy or Hobbyking)

and besides, the lipos are $12 each +shipping, while EP 2/3A packs are $30 each and are inferior in all regards.


i also have a 2s novak smartstop LVC, hooked up to the BEC side of the EVX (read: when you hook a battery up with the switch turned on, the steering works, but not the throttle. if you hook it up to the other side, nothing happens at all) to protect the lipos from dangerous overdischarge.

i weighted the front wheels with 8 oz total lead strips and solder (yes, solder. al you have to do is wrap it around and then put your foam over and glue/beadlock them on) and nothing in the rear, as the battery is just enough to keep the tires on the ground when it is needed, the truck is over the wheels when it is not.

clod stall is not a huge issue, as i can use it as a crude DIG. i am not a comp guy, so i don't care that much about the rules of competition (nor do i actually know what they are, other than some 1.9 rules state you can't have MOA, just shafties) the banebots motors solved this issue with the stock tires, but the new tires made it reappear, but to a slightly lesser degree.

[cartronicshn]

i have had my cc for about 6 months now and have done some SERIOUS modding to it.

first thing, locked out the rear steer

2nd, scrapped the cruddy rtr electronics

3rd installed a Trx Evx, yes 16.8v

got the banebots motors (the rs390s)
they are about 1mm longer than the 454s and with 16.8v, a little more torque.

so much torque, i snapped the rear axle within minutes of installing my Hotbodies Rover tires {glued :O} (i already ahve all metal gears, and stock pinions, as the banebots motors have the same shaft diameter as the cc5000s (the stockers)

the evx also allows VERY smooth throttle, even with almost no throttle, there is no jitter at all, which is amazing because the evx jitters all by itself under the lightest of throttle.

more mods: i made bent links for the rear out of 6/32 allthread and 1/4 in brakeline.

i also added Traxxas tie rods from my old emaxx (the front ones go up top, and the rear ones go on the bottom, with the stock CC chassis

i also added the 4 shocks from my old emaxx with the springs removed

result: 90+ degrees of articulation( which i intend on limiting) and 13.5" of wheelbase(yes that just happens to be the same as the NEW emaxx

and running in Droop

front steering servo is a 2075 atm with the stock, old emaxx servo saver on it, just because i had it lying around and it works well enough. i put the servo link on the inside hole on the steering knuckle and put the connecting link( the one that goes to both knuckles) on the bottom of the knuckles in the outer holes. this achieves full lock steering ( the knuckles touch the axle body now, no need for a longer servo arm or a solid servo arm for that matter.)


Batteries: turnigy 2200mah 20c 2s lipos, x2, same size as 2/3a nimh 6-cell packs, with more runtime and 5x the amps and 4x the charge speed (you can charge them at 2c (4.4A) and discharge them at 44A sustained. (if you try that with 2/3 a cells you will be in for a smoky surprise)

i attempted to charge a 2/3a 6-cell pack at 4A. it actually blew up (vented) the Turnigy (found at www.hobbycity.com (http://www.hobbycity.com)) won't even warm up
(no i do not work for Turnigy or Hobbyking)

and besides, the lipos are $12 each +shipping, while EP 2/3A packs are $30 each and are inferior in all regards.


i also have a 2s novak smartstop LVC, hooked up to the BEC side of the EVX (read: when you hook a battery up with the switch turned on, the steering works, but not the throttle. if you hook it up to the other side, nothing happens at all) to protect the lipos from dangerous overdischarge.

i weighted the front wheels with 8 oz total lead strips and solder (yes, solder. al you have to do is wrap it around and then put your foam over and glue/beadlock them on) and nothing in the rear, as the battery is just enough to keep the tires on the ground when it is needed, the truck is over the wheels when it is not.

clod stall is not a huge issue, as i can use it as a crude DIG. i am not a comp guy, so i don't care that much about the rules of competition (nor do i actually know what they are, other than some 1.9 rules state you can't have MOA, just shafties) the banebots motors solved this issue with the stock tires, but the new tires made it reappear, but to a slightly lesser degree.
..and your point is? you also invested a lot of money on truck that will snap an axle or the metal gears if you need the speed to get over an obstacle, but you have great low end response? I have comp rigs, several of them 2.2, super, 1.9 moa and shafty, this thread was made because i thought i could get my c.c. to an accepatable level of crawling ability, but so far i haven't gotten there, i will try some more mods in the weight department and if that doesn't get me where i want, then i will just put it aside and move to my next project.