How to make a wk a basher? Have some ideas.

[wanantrdsc]

I have been working on my WK crawler, and some trail rigs have caught my eye. One thing that bothers me is that 4wd rc trucks are usually a bit of money, and they almost always have two batteries and two motors.

Im a Traxxas guy. I have a Rusty, a Pede, and a Bandit that can really take a beating.

:idea:Im wondering how good of a basher I could make the WK if I added these parts/swapped them out:

-Traxxas shocks
-aluminum linkage
-front and rear sway bars
-aluminum upper link mounts
-aluminum steering linkage or servo relocation on axle w/ht mg servo and aluminum connecting rod
-aluminum rear lockout rod
-2.2" wheels with Geolanders, Dirt Hawgs, or ?
-maybe an alumnum chassis - I can get the purple Integy for stupidly cheap, fab a chassis, or would the stock work?
-flip the chassis
-aluminum lower chassis and ball link mounts

Now Im not sure many vehicles can bash like a Rustler or a Stampede, but with these mods, how well would my WK hold up?

Am I missing any important items, mods, parts, etc.?

Thanks!

[devestator_x]

Im doing some bashing with mine...I flipped the chassis, ran it twice, then flipped it back. The chassis flip is great for crawling and lower speeds, but awful for bashing. At full throttle, if you hit the brakes hard, it flips over forward. Ive got a Trinity Midnight 2 motor in it and just letting off the throttle from full speed would lift the rear tires off the ground on pavement.

Im a very "light" basher though. Lots of full speed runs and donuts...not alot of jumping. I still need to build a few ramps out behind my building. My next task is locking the rear diff and slowing the front diff down with heavy grease.

[wanantrdsc]

I am a moderate basher. Maybe a 7 on a scale of 1-10. The worst thing Ive done is nail the curb straight on with a brushless Bandit. I didnt even see it coming!"thumbsup" Car seemed to run just fine afterwards. I was only doing, uh, over 40, but less than 70! Ran the car around for awhile. Brought it back and the camber looked really weird. Turns out I cracked the lower chassis down the length in 2 places, cracked the upper chassis in half, and sheered the bulkhead in half. Did I mention it wasnt my Bandit? I have broken the usual: arms, shock towers, shocks, castor blocks, bearing carriers, bumpers, wing mounts, servos, etc. So I want something that will take it. A Savage or E-Revo would be good, but too much$$$$$$$$. Have been searching for a few years for an alternative.
Even tried a custom ground up build, but that was a nightmare, a headache, and a waste of money. Just want a platform to start with.

[savagefromthesprings]

my savage can take a beating like nothing else. 20 foot jumps in the 'bowl' at the skate park, sometimes landing flat on its roof. The only thing that has broken? the carb came out of the motor one time. that is it. no frame damage, no broken hubs or a arms, no broken frame. its an amazing rig. My pos Tmaxx broke with a weak ass jump at the BMX track. My dog uses it as a chew toy now..

[thehopping1]

I would also add aluminum knuckles and C's to the list. Those where the first to go on mine.

[wanantrdsc]

I would also add aluminum knuckles and C's to the list. Those where the first to go on mine.

Thats what I was afraid of. The build would take on a life of its own and get too expensive to make it a good basher.

[Pete from Houston]

The WK is a great 4wd basher in it's stock form. I wouldn't add anything aluminum to the truck because that just moves the weak point further into the axle. Go with Maxx lockers and upgrade the axle shafts, but leave the C's and knuckles alone (IMO, don't even put straight axle adapters on the back...that'll just make the housing break faster). Think of all the flexy stock parts as "fuses" that are saving the more expensive or difficult-to-replace parts from breaking.

Once you decide to make your WK into a crawler, then go nuts with the aluminum. ;-)

[wanantrdsc]

The WK is a great 4wd basher in it's stock form. I wouldn't add anything aluminum to the truck because that just moves the weak point further into the axle. Go with Maxx lockers and upgrade the axle shafts, but leave the C's and knuckles alone (IMO, don't even put straight axle adapters on the back...that'll just make the housing break faster). Think of all the flexy stock parts as "fuses" that are saving the more expensive or difficult-to-replace parts from breaking.

Once you decide to make your WK into a crawler, then go nuts with the aluminum. ;-)

Good points. Actually, this idea is for a 2nd wheely king. I just wish they werent so high off the ground. Maybe I should fab a chassis. Make sort of a trail style rig. Would like a little speed, but dont want to trash the trans - but theres always metal gears. Works for all my Traxxas VXL transmissions.

[devestator_x]

Well, I would think the break points would be the same for 2wd or 4wd. The axle setup is the same. The only difference that I know of is the lack of drive components (dogbones, driveshaft, etc) for the front. I had it in my head to build a 2wd WK into a scale trail rig. Use an IFS up front with a solid rear axle. Build it off a twin rail frame like a Tamiya Bruiser.

[Pete from Houston]

Maybe I should fab a chassis. Make sort of a trail style rig.
Ripper7Racing has what you need:
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7r/theshop/catalog/images/uploads/delr49_001.jpg
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7r/theshop/catalog/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2

[SpikeX]

I dont know what kind of 'bashing' you fellers are referring to.... However;

I had my wheely king built for crawling, removed batt box mounted batt on axle, stretched wheel base to 12.5, bent front/rear aluminum links, true 4 link, lockers, 55t crawler motor and esc, 8 shot beadlocks, proline moabs, servo on axle, aluminum steering rod, was fun enough messing around but could never come close with anything on the market for competitions so I scrapped it. It sat around in my house for a while before I started to remember (realized after driving my ae sc10), the wk is awesome for just general driving, I could keep up with my brothers tmaxx on jumps and just general durability. I had kept it stock for 2-3 months because believe it or not but i didnt know there was "rock crawlin" for rc. I did my own hill climbing and such now and again but only because I crawl in my bronco but I didnt know there was a group of specialized crawling rcs or its popularity.

Now I have the HPI crawling kit (12.0 wb, aluminum lower links, extended link mounts), for near to stock dimensions and aluminum parts. I put the battery box back on sock format (rear), I have a 21 turn mod motor, with traxxas esc, I kept the servo on axle I just went with a higher speed instead of higher torque with servo saver, I kept the aluminum front/rear steering linkage its tougher, I have aluminum chassis, the plastic one was cracking in the screw holes to the battery box from the weight of the battery being slammed, otherwise it was holding up, aluminum skid plate for the tranny, was easy to make myself, stock tires and rims, and removed the locker in the front. - And I can smash the hell out of it. I took it to the churt pit and I was sailing it off 15 foot cliffs, over 7-8 foot embankments, gong 30 mph over softball sized rocks and just over general jagged terrain and I havnt broken a thing. WK axles are bullet proof. I believe I could keep up with any stampede with comparable electronics out there. The only thing I want to do now is buy the front bumper/front axle bumper assembly that hpi has on the nitro king. With the f250 body I have now pained like blue thunder it looks like the real thing driving around. Been too busy at work to take new pics or update my youtube page so all I have is crawling, but anyone who thinks the wk is not a competitive basher is crazy. (And cheap! I would have spent 3x less on my wk if I hadnt turned it into a crawler first!)

[chongdigga]

You just gotta see for yourself.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162437 :twisted::evil::twisted::evil::twisted::evil::twis ted::evil:

95% aftermarket. Custom built steel tranny/slipper clutch 1 of 2 in the world.
top speed 37.8 mph

[wanantrdsc]

You just gotta see for yourself.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162437 :twisted::evil::twisted::evil::twisted::evil::twis ted::evil:

95% aftermarket. Custom built steel tranny/slipper clutch 1 of 2 in the world.
top speed 37.8 mph

Damn dude! Good thing they recycle cans!

[sloppy]

Do you have all that aluminum crap on your pede or rusty??

The flexy links help a ton keeping the WK together.. do the link mount flip or get the crawler link setup to stretch the WB a bit and there a blast..

[wanantrdsc]

Do you have all that aluminum crap on your pede or rusty??

The flexy links help a ton keeping the WK together.. do the link mount flip or get the crawler link setup to stretch the WB a bit and there a blast..


I use RPM upgrades, VLX links, and aluminum shock caps. Past that no aluminum.