? FOR All CLOD FANS

[skoolbus]

Take a second and answer these qusetions without reading and moving on, please. 8)

There are few aftermarket chassis available that I am aware of, 10 or so. If you wanted to buy an aftermarket chassis, for your stock clod what would most of you be you be looking for? :?:

1) 4-link, 3-link, old school solid axle/shock. Full frame, short frame, baddest new fad susension, something affordable enough you don't have to build yourself, a complete package or just the chassis with the option to choose other components, Speed(dual packs or lightweight chassis), most articulation, shiney parts, tallest lift, competition chassis, lightweight, something just better than stock, something different, what do you want when you get ready to plunk down $$$$$$ on an aftermarket chassis? :?:

2)How much do you think is reasonable for what your asking for? :o

Please answer these 2 questions and in the next month I will see if I can build what the average guy is looking for, be realistic I am not a wealthy person.

A) Chassis cost you decide.(I'll set the profit margin at a low 50%)
B) Chassis type you decide.
C) Chassis material you decide.
D) I'll Build it.
E) Give it to who-ever you guys say describes it best. 8O

Nothing promised here, winner may end up with a wooden set of links and a set of square swampers.........

[Mnster]

light, small, flexy and strong with good clearance.

[PoRiggity]

Id like to see something based around aluminum, with crawling in mind, with linked suspension setup... something similar to the gecko chassis, but cheaper :flipoff:
Scott

[Fishmaxx]

You go to Mudcow.com, and build that again. Take pictures every step of the way. Post them as you go. Then shoott some cool videos :D

Everybody loves you 8)

End of Story :!:

[skoolbus]

--Ok, so far we have several votes for aluminum. (Which is great, since I have some aluminum already.) :D
--Good arcticulation. 8)
--Cheap. :P
--Linked suspension. :)

--Mudcow uses cantilevers, that would add some complication and cost for fabrication, and not necessarily add to articulation. :o

"You go to Mudcow.com, and build that again. Take pictures every step of the way. Post them as you go."
I don't really want to copy someone, this is a freebie project something a little different. You could go to the cows site and copy his truck without me. Not offense, it's a sweet truck! :D

--So this first day I'm getting an idea of smallish aluminum(not full frame) linked chassis, which allows for a lightweight good arcticulating chassis. :!:

--I'll try to draw up some frames when I get some time and scrounge some graph paper, you guys decide how long the links should be or about how long the wheelbase needs to be.
--Almost forgot, decide where the battery goes, they dont' run well without a battery.(Long like the gecko, through the sideplates the ripper, on top underneath, what-ever. I'm thinking through the sideplates, it would add strength to the chassis flex and simplify battery changes.
8)

[skoolbus]

-Ok, I drew up 4 basic chassis sideplates. I used graph paper so the lines will be true. This looks kinda cheesy, but this is the way it will start. After one is chosen, I will glue the paper to either a thin piece of plywood or posterboard, then I will cut the shape out and use it as a template.

--I still like the idea of the battery runnning through the sideplates, it will be much easier to change out a battery and will lighten the chassis by removing some metal. The metal removed won't weaken the chassis much since the battery will be in place.

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/1831/4-basicchassis.jpg
4 Plates
1) I'm not much on this square look, although easier to cut, it's not very thrilling.
2)Again simple, even more simplified is the battery cut-out. A rectangle is easier to cut than an oval.
3)This is probobly the way to go, it's got that 1:1 shape and the battery cut-out is simple.
4)I like this one also, but battery cut-tout would again be a little harder, and different stick packs tend to vary in size.

Here are a few more questions?
1)Again what is the wheelbase length?
2)Shocks mounted on the links, or on the axles?
3)Top links mounted on the axle tubes or in the center of the diff?
4)How wide should the chassis be?

* "Project Freebee" you would think more people would want a free chassis...Oh well better chance for the few that are interested.

[skoolbus]

--I have decided to go with 14gauge aluminum. Most aftermarket chassis use pretty thick stock, but we are looking for affordability and the least mass that won't bend. With proper bracing and the smallish frame size 14gauge should be plenty for a single pack crawler that doesn't see more than 10mph or so. :o
--I am think about using 5 bracing points 2 at the top, two at the bottom and one in the center, all the engineer guys will tell you to for, use triangles when you build anything structural. This pic shows clear lines that form 4 triangles of bracing. :o
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/254/2platestrianglestrucral.jpg

--Tommorrow I am going to make templates with these 2.
Cut 1 each of these guinnee pigs out of 14gauge aluminum and see which one I could make work. I have a feeling the oval shaped battery holder will be hard to cut, I have only a dremal and jigsaw, no CNC machining here. Secondly that oval really bothers me because packs are not the same size and the square opening leaves leway for any pack. :o

--Anyone have any input feel free to give some tips or critcism. I'm open to suggestions.

[Fishmaxx]

I like what what you are doing. I think it will show newbies the process of building a crawler.

[skoolbus]

Why thanks Fishmaxx, I really thought I would get more input, but I guess when it's finished the, ooo meee meee's might start. :roll:

Ok, I used rubber cement to glue my cut out graph drawings. I glued 1 to a piece of aluminum and one to a piece of posterboard. Then I cut out the templates. Cutting a template using aluminum tought me several things, it's not as acurate as paper(duh) and those rounded edges I was worried about are a pain in the rear when all you have is a Dremel and paper thin cutting discs( the discs break unless cutting a straight line). Something that you will be amazed by though is that a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade will cut aluminum like butter. 8)
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5928/2-mainchassisbackside.jpg

I mentioned batteries being different sizes. I show 2 here, a racers edge and a matched sanyo 3000 pack. The batteries are lined up like in a flashlite in the racers edge pack and they are side to side in the sanyo matched pack. The racers edge fits, see. :o
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/5520/ovalracersedgefits.jpg

Here is the delima, the matched pack isn't even close to going through. I could make the hole bigger, but it just makes more sense to use a rectangle. :o
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/439/ovaldelima.jpg

Here is the larger of the 2 batteries, the Sanyo matched pack, it fits nicely through the rectangular slot. :o
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5584/Theonematchedsanyo.jpg

Also, you willl see some holes in the template, these holes are for.
1)Top 2 cross bracing and electronics base.
2)Two holes under those will be for the top shock mount( no-one said where they wanted the shocks, someone said they liked the gecko type so, I'm putting the shocks on the links).
3)Center hole is for cross bracing.
4)Third holes down just above the battery cut-out are for top links.
5)Two at the bottom of the battery cut-out are for crossbracing.
6)Bottom holes are for bottom links.

I'm going go chill awhile and then I'll post the templates run rampant on the aluminum. I've decided to make a few extra to fund the freebee. :wink:

P.S.
Someone needs to answer --some-- questions still. (Pasted from top)
Here are a few more questions?
1)Again what is the wheelbase length?
2)Shocks mounted on the links, or on the axles?
3)Top links mounted on the axle tubes or in the center of the diff?
4)How wide should the chassis be?

[skoolbus]

Tracing the template
This part was easy, I just lined up my posterboard template with the straight cut aluminum sheet and began tracing with a sharpie permanent ink pen, and poked the tip through the holes in the template to mark for drilling :o

1)The sharpie ink line is the same width as my jigsaw blade, so as long as I cut the lines dead in the center ie. making the line disapear all the chassis plates will be near the exact same size. I would however recommend drawing and cutting two completely seperate pieces vs side by side cutting like I am doing. I have cut quite a bit with a jigsaw and I'm comfortable with straight lines. :)

2)I then pre drilled all my holes that were marked with the same template. :o

3)Next, I will cut out the rectangular sections for the battery with a Dremel. :?

4)Last thing I will do is cut each chassis side piece out of the sheet using my jigsaw. It is easier to drill and do the rectangle cut-outs before cutting the sideplates if you have a large piece of aluminum to work with. :o

Here's a pic of the chassis sidepates pre-drilled and awaiting cutting. The aluminum looks scratched, but no worries it's a protective plaastic coating that is applied to both sides. Once the assembly is complete, you can peel off the plastic to reveal the shiney aluminum(which can be polished to a mirror finish). 8)
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1851/predrilledsideplates.jpg

[PoRiggity]

Its looking pretty damn good to me... The problem with the matched packs could be an issue, but Im sure its nothing you couldn't work around :)
Scott

[Fishmaxx]

To determine the wheel base there are two factors to consider.

1) What do you want the truck look like :D

Is the body going set over the wheel for a more scale appearance, is it going look more like a monster truck.

2) What kind of terrain will you be crawling on?

In my experience crawling , over logs ,tall flat rocks, and on ledges longer seems better. Also on steep inclines :D

On broken concrete and jagged rocks the edges will sneak up between you front and rear wheels causing you to high center. Also
on stair-climbing if your wheel base is to long you have to take the steps 2 at a time. My truck won't do it yet..............but I am working on it :twisted:

Bottom line..............some time longer is better, and sometimes shorter works best 8O

15-16 inches seems to work for a lot of folks :?

[Destroyer]

I think you should mount the links on the axle tubes for two reasons:
1-it's easier
2-allows more uptravel of the suspension off a jump.

For wheel base, I think longer is better more often than shorter. Also, a nice slick aluminum center skidplate would be useful to protect the ends of the rods and allow the center to slide over rocks instead of get hooked.

If you are going with a short frame chassis, link mounted shocks are probably the only way to go.

Make sure to file all the edges so you don't cut yourself or any wires!

Destroyer

[skoolbus]

Hi, again.

Fishmaxx,
Fishmaxx, Bottom line..............some time longer is better, and sometimes shorter works best :!:

This is so true, there is a trade-off. The good thing about a super long wheelbase is, the ability to drape over nearly anything. But a shorter wheelbase allows for a better turning radius that clods suffer from. By link mounting the shocks, it allows the shocks to move up or down on the links. This shock placement will allow the wheelbase to be adjustable as well as ride height. :D


Destroyer,
I think you should mount the links on the axle tubes for two reasons:
1-it's easier
2-allows more uptravel of the suspension off a jump. :!:

I can't remember why I asked this, I must have been thinking shock mounting location, or including a center diff post for te upper links. Since this is a budget crawler, I'm not including a center post. Also I agree, with your examples 1 and 2. The only downfall is usually less arcticulation with axle mounted links, but the suspension does handle impact better. Infact with my project exile I've stalled on, I plan on mounting links mounted on the axles for that reason. It all comes down to what you want from the truck, so the owner can decide this one. No link mounting center post will be included then. :o

Destroyer,
Also, a nice slick aluminum center skidplate would be useful to protect the ends of the rods and allow the center to slide over rocks instead of get hooked. :idea:

This is probobly going to be the only thing that I don't like about this chassis. I'm not going to fabricate a skid plate for it.---It is a simple bolt on anyone can add if they want it later---. To be cheaper than the other chassis out there it can't come with more standard equipment than a chassis that cost several hundred more(which don't include a skid). :cry:

LINKS
****I have decided there is going to be one main difference in standard equipment on this chassis. Most of the cost will go here. I have made alot of aluminum links with 4-40 and 6-32 taped out aluminum 1/4 rod. I am not going to go into any detail about link building since there are plenty of tutorials including one on this site under top 10 arcticles.

****I'm going to make all the crossbracing and links out of carbon fiber. Lightweight and strength were major requests, so I think the high tensile strength to weight ratio carbon-fiber has to offer, will set this chassis apart from the rest.

Here was todays latest accomplishment, I thought about polishing the plates, but again it would raise cost and thats something that can be done at home in no time, takes time though if your working with 20 of them.
Sideplates
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/834/20sideplates.jpg

At this point the project is on hold, carbon-fiber has to be sized and ordered, since its a specialty item. So, we wait......... 8)

[skoolbus]

Alrighty, I had enough carbon fiber left over from project Exile to put 1 of these together. I don't have enough carbon to make the links though, so here are a few pictures of the chassis without links. These are nice because it's starting to look like something here. :D

:o Here is the chassis still with the protective plastic on it. You can make out the sharpie ink here and there. Notice the 5 carbon fiber braces. The 3 lower braces are held on by stainless steel nylon locking nuts. The two upper braces are longer to allow body post mounting hardware. All bracing is done with 6-32 size hardware. This chassis will be rustproof, since all these materials I am using are rust inhibiting metals or coated.
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/7034/---chassisbeforeremovingscratchplasticcoating.jpg


:o Here I am peeling off the plastic coating that is on both sides, if you use aluminum without plastic coating when your done drilling and cutting it, chances are it'll be scratched up. I decided to build this chassis 4" wide, if anyone has any input on width let me know, because until I mock it up to the axles with link this is a guess.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2289/removingplastic.jpg

:lol: Here is the chassis with the plastic removed Pretty good looking I think, and it is really light. Since I have to wait on the carbon fiber to come in, I will make an electronics plate for it, and go get body posts.
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/708/--scratchplasticoatingremoved.jpg

:?: How should I hold the battery down. I'm thinking use zip ties, or either a velcro strap over the battery and under the 2 braces. What do ya think? Anyway thats all for now. Hope you guys like how it's coming along.

[PoRiggity]

I have a question for you.. Is there a way to make a provision to run a dual battery setup? Im thinking of buying an EVX ESC, and Id like to run dual batteries.. any possibilities of that?
Scott

[skoolbus]

I have a question for you.. Is there a way to make a provision to run a dual battery setup? Im thinking of buying an EVX ESC, and Id like to run dual batteries.. any possibilities of that?
Scott

-You can stack and strap batteries to almost any chassis out there. On this one I would put them inside and run them legthwise instead of through the side plates.:idea:

-BUT to be honest, this particular chassis is a crawler, not a basher. It (may) wind up weighting less than any other available chassis. Loading it down with batteries and electronics should not be necessary. Ask any of these guys and they will tell you a good set of aftermarket motors are plenty, and with less weight you get better handling. There are literally several pounds in difference with chrome molly tube chassis/carbon fiber/aluminum ect. The chassis here will have an awesome power to weight ratio even with stock motors, I'm almost sure it will wheelie without the diffs being locked. 8O

-Don't get me wrong, I like lots of torque and power also, but with this come parts breakage. With cantilevers and linked suspension speed equals broken rod-ends and rods. Most chassis are over built and never fail, thats why I went with higher guage aluminum, the chassis will hold up, it's the links that fail. :?

-So to answer your question in a super long post, you can do it, but expect to have some down time.
:wink:

[skoolbus]

Okie dokie, now we got a polycarbonate electronics plate mounted up-top and some HPI body mounts. :D

CHASSIS PICS
SIDEVIEW. :P
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1743/--polycarbandhpi.jpg

DOWN ON IT AT AN ANGLE. :P
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/790/polycarbhpiTOPVIEW.jpg

LOOKING DIRECTLY DOWN THROUGH THE TOP, SHOWING PRETTY STRAIGHT/SQUARE BUILD. :o
http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/931/topchassislookingdown.jpg


STRAIGHT THROUGH THE BOTTOM. :o
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7679/lookingthroughbotomchassis.jpg

A BLING BLANG SHOT, IF YOUR NOT INTO CLODS IT WOULD MAKE A NICE PENDANT. :?
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1296/chassisblingblang.jpg

Wheres that UPS truck :!:

[PoRiggity]

Well, My next question would be is there an easy way to run a single battery with the EVX?? :-D
Scott

[skoolbus]

Well, My next question would be is there an easy way to run a single battery with the EVX??
Scott

Try this:
http://www.rccrawler.com/postt356.html

[PoRiggity]

chassis is looking kick ass man! Keep up the good work.
Scott

[skoolbus]

:P I've been working hard, I got the carbon fiber yesterday evening and have just finished up the first complete chassis.

:o I have still not decided if I want to strap the battery down, probobly velcro or use a few zip ties. I can tell two things about this chassis, it is super light and is awesome to look at.

:D Everyone likes shiney things, and in person this one looks like a shiney Tarantula... :twisted:

I'm looking forward to weighing it in full trim and to driving the @#$% out of it and see if I can break anything. :lol:

I have a splitting headache, so I'm stopping for today. Hope yu guys enjoy the pics......

Here it is with the links bolted up. Links are 6-32.
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7828/noshocks.jpg

The next images are all the complete chassis with shocks, minus battery strap.
This is by far the best looking chassis I have built. I believe it will also be very durable.

I even inverted the shocks to lower the center of gravity all I could. 8)
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8417/shock1.jpg

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/8576/shock3.jpg

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/5277/shock4.jpg

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5277/shock4.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9687/shock5.jpg

Next, bolt up some beater gearboxes and see what it will do.......... :wink:

[jason]

This rig looks very cool. Thank you for taking the time to do this!

[skoolbus]

Jason,
If your the site creator, then thank you for the RCC site, if your not then thank you for thanking me anyway.

:o I am forunate enough to have the time to do this. I wanted to show that it is possible to build your own custom crawler. I also wanted to show why aftermarket chassis cost what they do. Design, engineering, research and testing on top of advertising are why these pups can cost big money.
:o After seeing this thread you either think, hey I can do that...or you say, the tools will cost me more than if I just buy it.
Either way, thanks for viewing this thread and if you don't win project free-bee a few will go on E-bay, after that I'm going to figure out that TXT-1 thing. 8O

[jason]

Jason,
If your the site creator, then thank you for the RCC site

Yep Thats me, thanks.

The site wouldn't be nothing without the help of all the people that make it what it is.

[skoolbus]

Jason,
I poked around trying to figure out who ran this popsical stand, I thought it was you or some Bastard <-pun intended. I see you chating about being killed with bandwidth, well I can tell you now....Get ready for a crash because I was a member of Clodtalk when it was a newbie last year and my guess is, all these people who are into bashing are going to convert this or next year and not only is this site a crawler site but it is the only crawler site that hosts all types of rigs. The imageshack may disapear and you could get swamped by summer. Just a thought........ 8O

[4x4x4fan]

That's a good looking chassis.

How wide is it? I only ask cos I've recently bought a gecko II (hence no input on this thread so far), and the gecko is about 3 inches wide (I haven't measured it exactly). The lower links just get rubbed by the wheels at full lock, so I was thinking that if yours is any wider then there might be problems when steering.

Oh, silly me, I've just noticed that one of your earlier posts says 4 inches wide. I think you'll definitely encounter problems with the steering lock, unless those links are very short. How about mounting the lower links on the inside of the chassis?

[skoolbus]

That's a good looking chassis.
Thank you very much.

How wide is it? I only ask cos I've recently bought a gecko II (hence no input on this thread so far), and the gecko is about 3 inches wide (I haven't measured it exactly). The lower links just get rubbed by the wheels at full lock, so I was thinking that if yours is any wider then there might be problems when steering.
4" wide chassis. I have bolted up my axles and Mine don't rub, they are less than 1/2" from touching. The Gecko is a proven repected brand. Do you have thetruck assembled? More important, do you actually have a servo hooked up to the steering?

Oh, silly me, I've just noticed that one of your earlier posts says 4 inches wide. I think you'll definitely encounter problems with the steering lock, unless those links are very short. How about mounting the lower links on the inside of the chassis?
These links are 6 3/4 from end to end. My next post I'll drop in some pics of the steering lock 2 lock. Also, i you munt the lower links on the inside they would bind. Send or post some pics of yur truck and maybe we can figure out what the problem is. :wink:

[skoolbus]

I need a new keyboard, I look illiterate most the time 8O

I wated to mount the upper links to the axle housings, but these gearboxes had center links mounted on them already, also I didn't feel like making mounts and romoving the ones on it.

:o Here is a pic bolted up to the gearboxes.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2757/notires.jpg

:o This shows the turning radious and clearance of tire to links.
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9992/lock2lock1.jpg


:o A better shot of the clearance between tire to link.
http://img1.imageshack.us/img1/413/lock2lock2.jpg

:roll: Arcticulation shot.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3051/artic1.jpg
:o I noticed the upper links look silver in this shot, so I went out and took a pic of what carbon fiber looks like in the sun. I though it was pretty neat, they go from black to grey and silver, didn't notice that before.Huh.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8383/links.jpg


Working out pretty well.
I'm going to try to button it up this weekend and drive it to death.
Tower Hobbies just sent me a mail, the new clods are shipping now if anyone cares. They are selling them for less than the old ones :?: Not sure why, anyway till next time :!:

Another pose. :P
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/7477/artic2.jpg

[4x4x4fan]

Now that does look like an awesome truck, you've done really well!

4" wide chassis. I have bolted up my axles and Mine don't rub, they are less than 1/2" from touching. The Gecko is a proven repected brand. Do you have thetruck assembled? More important, do you actually have a servo hooked up to the steering?

Yeah, everything is built according to the instructions and a servo added front and rear. When the truck isn't running the tyres miss the lower links by no more than 1/16 of an inch, but when it's running the tyres deform under load and rub the links.

But yours looks like it's got more clearance than mine. I don't understand. Have you mounted the links to the top or bottom of the c-hub? If they're at the top then they're less likely to get involved with the tyre cos of the angle of the dangle (blame Pythagoras). It looks like if I mounted my links at the top of the c-hub they wouldn't get so involved when the tyres are steering under load.

Sorry, don't mean to threadjack. If other geckos don't have this problem perhaps I'll start another topic.

And that really is super work you've done. You can send one to me, no need to put it on ebay (PayPal good?) :D

[skoolbus]

Yeah, everything is built according to the instructions and a servo added front and rear. When the truck isn't running the tyres miss the lower links by no more than 1/16 of an inch, but when it's running the tyres deform under load and rub the links.
A picture tells a thousand words, is it possible for youto post a picture, if I can't help maybe someone else passing by could.

But yours looks like it's got more clearance than mine. I don't understand. Have you mounted the links to the top or bottom of the c-hub? If they're at the top then they're less likely to get involved with the tyre cos of the angle of the dangle (blame Pythagoras). It looks like if I mounted my links at the top of the c-hub they wouldn't get so involved when the tyres are steering under load.
cos of the angle of the dangle (blame Pythagoras :lol:
They are mounted to the bottom. I looked up that chassis, those have wider and very nice I might add, lower links. Have you contacted rcguy, I'm sure thay could answer this in 2 seconds.

Sorry, don't mean to threadjack. If other geckos don't have this problem perhaps I'll start another topic.
Your not hijacking anything, this thread is for 'whatever'. I dont' know if other Gecko's have this prblem or not, but it seems like I would have read some complaints and I have never seen anything other than praise about the gecko-1. I wonder if your servo has more throw than mine? I have my knuckles shaved, but my servo won't allow anything near full extension. Wish I could see a pic. :!:

[4x4x4fan]

Okay, you wanted 'em, you got 'em. This is full lock with completely standard axles and knuckle arms. The travel stops have not been removed.

Here's the clearance on full left lock...

http://andypsionfan.users.btopenworld.com/trucks/leftlock.jpg

and here's the right lock...

http://andypsionfan.users.btopenworld.com/trucks/rightlock.jpg

You can see further pics by clicking on my WWW button

[skoolbus]

4x4x4fan,
That is so close it's aggravating. All you need is just a hair more clearence. At the base of the chassis, on all the bottom links, is there more than one washer or some type of shim that can taken out :?:

I'm sure it won't hurt anything like it is, but you should be ableto shim your way out of that either at the axle tubes or chassis :idea:

If that chassis is 3" or so, the difference could be in the chassis length(front to back). Mine small at the bottom, so even though I use longer rods, my wheelbase may not be any larger. I didn't see the www button. Point me in that direction sometimes I gettured arond :oops:

[skoolbus]

TEST DRIVE
I got the clod together and gave it a test run,
I am more than satisfied at this point. :D

I need to tear it completely down, threadloc and lockwasher everything. Then tommorrow I am going to get it on :twisted:
The final weight with lid battery everything is a bit under 8#'s looks like 7.8#'s When I can get to an accurate digital I will weight the chassis alone.

This pic is uneventful but necessary is shows the ESC and receiver mounted to the poly plate.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6995/1electronics.jpg


The JEEP :!:
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/7893/2thejeep1.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/5171/3j.jpg

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/8265/4j.jpg

This shows the first set of cut tires I have done, they have an unusual pattern, but it uniform..Hey first time :o


http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7633/5j.jpg
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9720/6j.jpg

This pic shows a gallon of nitro just as a size comparison.
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8296/7j.jpg

This pic shows 2 things.
1)Velcro battery strapped in.
2)Truck at full throttle standstill. The diffs are not locked so I get alot of tire spin, but it will do wheelie.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7159/rearbatt9.jpg

These last 2 pics are just gofing off, it was a rolling cheater :lol:
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8707/wheeli1.jpg

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/7742/wheeli2.jpg

Tommorow I'm going to try to beak something, and have alittle fun, this things starting to feel like work 8O

[Grizzly4x4]

4x4x4fan, nice web page. My guess is that since most monster truck guys run wheel wideners for stability, the Gecko chassis may have been designed with that in mind. Putting on those wideners that you got with the truck will help clearance but will really put the hurt on your steering. Try spacing the arms in at the chassis or axle ends (like skoolbus said). Or can you move the link to the inside of the chassis plate? It doesn't look like you narrowed your clod wheels yet. Removing only the outer bead will tend to pull the tire away from the chassis and that might buy you enough clearance. Try it by just moving the tire inside of the bead before you actually cut it.

Skoolbus, great work on this thread. :D

[skoolbus]

4x4x4fan,
Can't believe I didn't know what or where that www was, I'm a loser.
Nice site/pics.

Thanks for the complement Grizzly4x4. :)

Putting on those wideners that you got with the truck will help clearance but will really put the hurt on your steering.
I didn't know they included wideners, I must have missed that. sure thats why they included them then. You know though if you shave your knuckes and add the wideners you may gain back the turning radius if some is lost. That gecko 2 is a very nice chassis. Let us know if you get it worked out, you can post it here if you want. :o

[Grizzly4x4]

Sorry for the confusion skoolbus, 4x4x4's web page said the wideners came with the clodbuster truck, they dont come with the Gecko chassis. :?

Adding the wideners will make it harder for the servo to turn the tires (by moving the wheel further away from the pivot point) and 4x4x4fan mentioned on the web page that the truck is already having trouble turning the tyres. Using wideners will likely mean a stronger servo is needed.

[skoolbus]

:? Hmmm ok, all clear...
:o I say contact rcguy, I've seen some posts before directed to them and they are quick to answer your questions and take care of any problem you or there product has. Seems like a very good company from what Ive seen here and there. :wink:

[skoolbus]

Coming to an end...

:o Well, I got this pup tore down and rebuilt, red threadlock and locking washers everywhere (by the way my fingetips are sore from all the wrenching) this was going to be a month long project and well, I got busy.

:o I went through 2 stick packs tonight under the floodlights and 1 of my upper shock mounts failed. After looking at what I had, I realized that this was not a freak accident and would happen again. Even though this is project "Freebee" giveaway, I would have to hang my head if someone had this happen within the first hour and a half of run time. :(

:? I stared at the truck, walked away from it, did this a few times, and found a way to avoid the added mounts, by using the 6-32 body post and another set of 4 nylon 1/4" black link mounts on the upper part of the 4 shocks I found a interesting fix.. ...I will post a pic of the new shock arrangment tommorrow. :)

:o After the shock fix/upgrade I ran the truck, I ran it up, down, upside down, straight into walls and hit angles at speeds only a 4 year old boy or a wife or girlfriend could do, and then it happened......My front left wheel fell off. Note to self, nylon locking 8-32 nuts, not 8-32 standard nuts I searched the house and there were no 8-32's so the testing was complete for today.

:idea: I have had 2 obstacles to overcome in this entire build.
1) Who's suggestions to listen to.
2) The oval or square battery size/shape to cut into the sideplates.
3) Failed upper shock mounts.

:o Now those who have posted in this thread from the begining need to decide who is going to get project "Freebee" :!:

:o I have seen these types of givaways happen, and I was ticked off at the end at the owner, there are two differences here. 1) I do not own a company or much of anything and 2) I'm letting you guys pic the winner, or loser, depending on the build quality :lol:

:o I thought about doing a poll, but some people might cheat, so I am going to post the rules in the next post here in a few minutes. Lets not make a big thing of this just play by the rules and I want you guys to know This was fun for me, I will do it 1 more time with another variation of the clod chassis and the again with the TXT-1 which will require very acurate measuring.

:!: Thanks Jason for a great site with friendly members, who are infatuated with RC as much as me....umm where's my free RCCrawler sticker :lol:

[skoolbus]

VOTING
RULES

-This chassis is to be given to the person who best described what people wanted as a whole.

-Vote for 2 people no less no more. If you would, tell why you voted for them.

-1 week to vote, cut-off date is next Friday.

-You must have 10 posts to vote.

- Anyone registered on this site can vote 1 time for 2 seperate people.

-You can vote for yourself.

-I can vote also.

-Only these people listed may win project Freebee...

Mnster
PoRiggity
Fishmaxx
Destroyer
jason
4x4x4fan
Grizzly4x4

---If you participated and I missed your name yell out, I will fix it.---

This is a small list of fella's, please read there input on the short 3 page build.
Why 1 week because if there are any bugs left in this clunker I want to find them before you bolt up your gear.

[skoolbus]

8O

[skoolbus]

:flipoff:

[skoolbus]

I'll start since I'm probobly the only one up this late anyway... :twisted:


1)I vote mnster... because he was the first to post and gave input that effected what I based the build on......."light, small, flexy and strong with good clearance."


2)I vote PoRiggity...because he was secong to post and wrote, "
I'd like to see something based around aluminum, with crawling in mind, with linked suspension setup... something similar to the gecko chassis, but cheaper "
Now PoRiggity gave up, because he doesn't know alot about these trucks, but he still tried to give some input.
And actually in my opinion Poriggity and mnster got what they wanted here, something kinda similar to the gecko, but light, good clearance and flexible.

Tommorow I will post project "FREEBEE" and a pic of the upper shock linkage. I was going to give the used chassis I have been working on as the giveaway, but I am going to keep i for my son and give a new uscratched one to the winner and I will include the shocks also.

Why I am typing my butt off, I wanted to let you all know that I was building what you asked for and you asked for a light, durable, gecko type chassis with good arcticulation. Well, I wanted to mention that when Gecko was mentined I thought oh crap they are going to sue me for patent rights. Let me tell anyone who is reading this or who has built a few quality chassis, if there is any company out there that is giving you the best bang for the buck it is RCGUY, I said I was going to build a chassis with a 50% profit in mind. I can tell you that even with the tools and the mechanics background I contain, these people are not into a get rich quick scheme or a here today gone tommorow plan. I am sure that with bulk buys I could lower the cost of my chassis, but I was honest from the start and I wil be honest till the end, This simple chassis will commend well over $100.00 per unit and this is with zero over head, no middle men ect. I would put my chassis against the rcguy chassis, but I only built 10, 2 for me one free and 7 to sell, so if your reading this and these made have vanished grab a rcguy gecko, it may be nearly twice the cost, but it is a guarenteed :!:

[jason]

First off I would really like to thank you for all you have done here. This is awsome!

My first vote goes to PoRiggity. He had good suggestions he's new into the hobby and I'd like to see him get a nice rig.

Second goes to Grizzly, just because he lives close enough to me that I'll get to see it!

[skoolbus]

You guys see that guy Jason over there in the corner, he is the man.......



1st place: PoRiggity

2cnd place a tie between:
:mnster
:Grizzly

[skoolbus]

Here are some pictures of "THE" freebee, it is 4am here so the pics are daaark...
http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/7092/freeb1.jpg

This is a picture of what I had to do to fix the upper link failure
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7776/freeblinkschange.jpg

This picture shows the project freebee as it once was before you bolt the axles up!
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2607/freeb3.jpg

[skoolbus]

This was the origional postTake a second and answer these qusetions without reading and moving on, please.

There are few aftermarket chassis available that I am aware of, 10 or so. If you wanted to buy an aftermarket chassis, for your stock clod what would most of you be you be looking for?

1) 4-link, 3-link, old school solid axle/shock. Full frame, short frame, baddest new fad susension, something affordable enough you don't have to build yourself, a complete package or just the chassis with the option to choose other components, Speed(dual packs or lightweight chassis), most articulation, shiney parts, tallest lift, competition chassis, lightweight, something just better than stock, something different, what do you want when you get ready to plunk down $$$$$$ on an aftermarket chassis?

2)How much do you think is reasonable for what your asking for?

Please answer these 2 questions and in the next month I will see if I can build what the average guy is looking for, be realistic I am not a wealthy person.

A) Chassis cost you decide.(I'll set the profit margin at a low 50%)
B) Chassis type you decide.
C) Chassis material you decide.
D) I'll Build it.
E) Give it to who-ever you guys say describes it best.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


A) Most people aid more affordable than the chassis ovailable, but no on e ever set a price :!:
b) I heard gecko/arcticulating/crawler/ strong/light.
c) Aluminum was the #1 choice.
D) I did build it.
E) This were working on! :!:

[4x4x4fan]

Project Freebee looks fantastic, you've done well (now go to bed, since it's 4 in the morning).

I vote PoRiggity and mnster.

PoRiggity has only recently got a clod, and he needs a crawler chassis to see how much more fun clods are when that stock chassis has been gotten rid of. Also, what he first described has certainly appeared.

And mnster gets a vote just for being the first to reply, so he must be very keen on crawling.


And a steering lock update... I've just set the tyres on the hubs as if the hubs had been narrowed on the inside and outside, and there's now easily a 1/4" clearance. I was intending to narrow the wheels anyway, but had been too busy with the rest of the truck to do them. Thanks for all your suggestions, and glad you liked my site. I've got the bodyshell now, but I'm waiting on some more bodyposts as the standard posts are too wide for the body so the clod is going to have to run around naked for a bit longer. I'll keep the site up to date, but I've been holding back on the 'official launch' until the body shell has been mounted, painted and custom decals applied (nothing too exciting, just the logo that you'll have seen on the clod index page).

[skoolbus]

1st place: PoRiggity

2cnd place mnster

3rd Grizzly

[jason]

Come on guys! This is a great oppritunity for someone. Step into the booth and vote!

[skoolbus]

Update,
:o I'm sure "real" manufactures test there stuff for months. 8O I'm not doing that, but I tested it enough to find a problem.
The black nylon lower link mounts can snap on impact, I was jumping down some stairs and snap, one gave out. :?
Sooo, I had to replace them with a natural color clamp, I really liked the black scheme, but these clamps are at least twice as thick. Also, they are nylon, so if you want, I bet you could dye them, like you die nylon rims.
Here's a pic, the broken mount is in the lower part of he pic, "Freebee" has the new nylon links mounted on it :!:


http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2076/linkage.jpg

[PoRiggity]

Ok, here's how I see it...

The chassis should be fairly minimalist, allowing ample room for all the electronics, but make is small enough so that there is not a ton of stuff to get hung up on rocks. I know my stock clod chassis loves the attach itself to rocks. Second.. aluminum would be ideal for a chassis material, but as we all know, aluminum can be a bit spendy.. But hey, we all like to spend money on our trucks right?? :D As far as price, I know the gecko goes for around 200, and judging by the quality of your work, you could get 200 out of your chassis, but selling them for $150, if its feasible, would have them selling like hot cakes.. I also like the idea of a 4 link....
Scott

[PoRiggity]

Oh yeah.. one more thing.. I vote for me.. Cuz I my stock clod chassis is keeping me from rock crawling to my fullest ability...
:flipoff:
Scott

[skoolbus]

Ya know, I been wondering wjy no-ones voted for themselves yet. But the rules say yo must vote for two peoples, no more no less..HAha now what ya gonna do :?: LOL

Second.. aluminum would be ideal for a chassis material, but as we all know, aluminum can be a bit spendy.. But hey, we all like to spend money on our trucks right??
Aluminum is getting ready to go up, along with all other metals (know someone in manufacturing).

As far as price, I know the gecko goes for around 200, and judging by the quality of your work, you could get 200 out of your chassis, but selling them for $150, if its feasible, would have them selling like hot cakes
Thanks for the compliment, but my build quality isn't near the Geckos'
the Gecko line uses larger diameter aluminum, are probobly CNC machined and they are tried and true. The trade off being this is a lighter chassis and cost half as much. But hey thats what the majority said they wanted. I'm looking forward to seeing what e-bay will bring for one, but I've started another project, so besides the JEEP and "Freebee" the others are neglected.. 8O

[skoolbus]

Well, I put 2 of 7 on E-bay. The other 5 are still moving along at a turtles pace. I was told by an ol'pro that 135.00 is a price to shoot for. There is so much time involved in these....If you made $2.00 an hour after material cost you could by a taco and a water :lol: :lol: :lol:
Post some votes gents times ticking :!:

[PoRiggity]

Ok, since I voted for myself once, I too Vote for mnster as he seems to know what people are wanting. I Understand the thing about build quality, but I haven't seen the gecko or yours in person, and I can't judge actual quality on pictures alone, but I have a feeling your setup will be plenty strong.. :) If I win project freebee, I'll be sure to beat it to hell to see how it holds up :)
Scott

[Grizzly4x4]

I vote for PoRiggity and Jason.

PoRiggity seems to be way excited about this project and I think would really appreciate winning it.

Jason gets my vote so that he could do a full test on it and see how it compares to many other types of trucks and maybe he would need me to put my axles on it :lol: . I have always wanted to see how well one of those chassis worked since the only Clod I have ever seen run is mine.

4x4x4fan was in the running for participating so much but I know you already got a brand spankin new Gecko, sorry.

Skoolbus, sell them for $150-$175 and I think they will do well.

[skoolbus]

Thanks for voting Grizzly, that PoRiggity is creeping up there :!:
I won't be chucking these things out like an assembly line. Too much work. Plus I might get some negative feedback on this first batch.

I am getting ready to start working on another version using all fiberglass bracing and links, because fiberglass is lighter and stronger.
And maybe adding a skidplate. To help hold the battery down better and to protect the underside :wink:

[4x4x4fan]

4x4x4fan was in the running for participating so much but I know you already got a brand spankin new Gecko, sorry.

I don't mind, after all the gecko is a fine chassis and I don't have another pair of gearboxes to put on another chassis. Yet. :D I'm sure that PoRiggity will make good use of project freebee if he stays on top (he looks unassailable at the moment).

But the gecko's not looking so spanking new now. All of the lower links have a healthy dose of rock rash, even one of the top links has a bit of rash (can't think how that happened :twisted: ), and I've had to replace a rod-end already. But the breaking is where the fun is to be had. And all before the Jeep CJ8 body has got any paint on it.

[PoRiggity]

Thanks for voting Grizzly, that PoRiggity is creeping up there :!:
I won't be chucking these things out like an assembly line. Too much work. Plus I might get some negative feedback on this first batch.

I am getting ready to start working on another version using all fiberglass bracing and links, because fiberglass is lighter and stronger.
And maybe adding a skidplate. To help hold the battery down better and to protect the underside :wink:

Fiberglass would be sweet, the only qualm Id have about that is, if it did break for some reason, fixing fiberglass with the resin is no fun :) Although, fiberglass is strong, so it may work out just fine, with no breakage problems. And I love the idea of a skidplated chassis too :) Thanks for the votes guys.. Id definetly be excited to win it.. but even if I didn't win, Id buy one just o see how it holds up :)
Scott

[SR5Dave]

PoRiggity all the way. I know he will abuse it and test it to its fullest

And the poor guy still has a stock chassis! :flipoff:

[PoRiggity]

PoRiggity all the way. I know he will abuse it and test it to its fullest

And the poor guy still has a stock chassis! :flipoff:

Hey Dave.. :flipoff: :D You do have a valid point though!
Scott

[skoolbus]

PoRiggity, IM your address to me so I can mail this thing out next week.
I really hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine. :D

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8357/chas3.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3204/chas2.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6030/154.jpg

:wink:

[jason]

Very nice, Thank you very much for doing this!

[Grizzly4x4]

Congratulations Po. You deserve it.

Great job skoolbus, very nice of you to do. 8)

[jason]

Hey Skoolbus, check out the title under your name, it's what all the cool people have!

[Grizzly4x4]

Right on Jason!!

[4x4x4fan]

PoRiggity is going to be busy.

He's got to build a crawler.

Thrash it to within an inch of it's life (for thorough product testing, of course, not for fun).

Then post lots of pix keeping his benefactor (i.e. skoolbus) and voters up to date.

Congrats, hope you have heaps of fun!

[skoolbus]

Hey Skoolbus, check out the title under your name, it's what all the cool people have!
Thanks Jason. I will try not to lower the standards.. too much 8)

Thrash it to within an inch of it's life (for thorough product testing, of course, not for fun).
4x4x4fan, :evil: don't egg him on, or he'll stay po and riggity :lol:

[SR5Dave]

Scott; I order you to finish it next week in your spare time and come up here the weekend after!! :flipoff: Then I can show you how to kill your clod :twisted: :twisted:

[MaxxZilla]

ANy updates on the next line of chassis?

[PoRiggity]

WOOOHOOOOO Thanks Skoolbus and guys for the votes. Trust me, I will thrash it and give it an accurate review :) Skool.. I will Private message you on this board... with my address .. Lemme know if you need me to cover shipping costs :)
Scott

[PoRiggity]

Scott; I order you to finish it next week in your spare time and come up here the weekend after!! :flipoff: Then I can show you how to kill your clod :twisted: :twisted:

LOL... Thats a long drive for a comp.. but if I didnt have to work saturday next weekend, Id actually consider it :flipoff:

Skoolbus,
No worries man, I will build it, thrash it, then have to get new parts for it from you :D
Scott

[SR5Dave]

Scott; I order you to finish it next week in your spare time and come up here the weekend after!! :flipoff: Then I can show you how to kill your clod :twisted: :twisted:

LOL... Thats a long drive for a comp.. but if I didnt have to work saturday next weekend, Id actually consider it :flipoff:

Skoolbus,
No worries man, I will build it, thrash it, then have to get new parts for it from you :D
Scott

bastid!! Oh well, thats life ;) Sometime before I move though!!

Skoolbus; be sure to ship via UPS :P

[skoolbus]

Maxxzilla@ANy updates on the next line of chassis?
Umm actually.
I built this one tonight, it's an aluminum ladder chassis based off the sideplates from the other build. I used this new fiberglass rod I'm going to start making links out of. Looks almost like the carbon, but up close it's dull and flat. SEE...
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7702/fiberglass.jpg

This is the body I built it for (Skinslip). I put a bedcover on it.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5707/skinslip.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/5092/skinslip2.jpg

Scott I got the shipping, just promise not to come looking for me if something flings off and pokes you in your eye :lol:
You might need some help figuring out where and how to mount the links / steering ect. So you can post it here or ask one of these other clodnoggons. I'll mail it sometime next week. :o

[skoolbus]

Moving right along...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/4950/new1.jpg

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/3226/new2.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1614/new4.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1614/new4.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5153/new5.jpg

No electrics so it will look like that for a looong time :cry:

[SR5Dave]

From looking at the chassis a bit more; they need bracing behind the links... I have 18GA sheetmetal to mount my links on and they've bent quite a bit, and repeatedly (I keep bending them back). Try moving those carbon fiber brace deals down a bit, otherwise that is a potential trouble area...

[skoolbus]

SR5Dave@From looking at the chassis a bit more; they need bracing behind the links... I have 18GA sheetmetal to mount my links on and they've bent quite a bit, and repeatedly (I keep bending them back).

:) Thanks for the advise, but there are several reasons this aluminum is enough for this truck.
I'm not running 20+mph or jumping 5 feet, as I've read in your posts.
This truck is about half the weight of your dual battery rig, so there is less strain on the parts, and it's not going to have near the power you run.It's just a slow rolling crawler.

Also, if you want I can build you some links that wont bend. IM me if your interested.

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5135/s10.jpg

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/2677/s7.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3418/s3.jpg

[SR5Dave]

SR5Dave@From looking at the chassis a bit more; they need bracing behind the links... I have 18GA sheetmetal to mount my links on and they've bent quite a bit, and repeatedly (I keep bending them back).

:) Thanks for the advise, but there are several reasons this aluminum is enough for this truck.
I'm not running 20+mph or jumping 5 feet, as I've read in your posts.
This truck is about half the weight of your dual battery rig, so there is less strain on the parts, and it's not going to have near the power you run.It's just a slow rolling crawler.

Also, if you want I can build you some links that wont bend. IM me if your interested.



:oops: :lol: Yeah, jumping 5' really did a few things in..... I also had trouble with like hitting jumps too. The aluminum might actually do better, it resists bending better than sheet metal, even though its much stronger.

Won't bend huh? hmmmmmm..... Can you put 8-32 rod in them? PM me a price :) If I bend them are they free? Keep in mind I'm bringing the weight of my clod up to 17# :flipoff:

[skoolbus]

Yeah, jumping 5' really did a few things in
LOL, yea that would definitely do somethings in.


Can you put 8-32 rod in them 8O
I've not built any that large before, I would have to do a special order.
What size/kind of ends are you using?

[SR5Dave]

Yeah, jumping 5' really did a few things in
LOL, yea that would definitely do somethings in.


Can you put 8-32 rod in them 8O
I've not built any that large before, I would have to do a special order.
What size/kind of ends are you using?

No idea, from my LHS. It just barely fits in them, I've found if I drill the hole all the way to just before where the O starts I can put rod all the way into there it prevents the rod end from breaking because its mostly metal. I've only bent one link so far, but my skill in making links is well; sub-par.... But dont worry about it ;) I can't spend money on my hobby for a whillllle, that whole 'just bought a house' thing ;)

[PoRiggity]

No worries Skoolbus.. I won't come lookin for you :) And I got SR5Dave to help me with any assembly problems I may have :D :flipoff:
Scott

[skoolbus]

POriggity, I don't know if you cked your Im's but I sent the chassis out on Thursayday morning, so it should by threre on Wednesday> If you have anytrouble recieving or assembling or anything you feel free to ask me. I wll take care of you. later
Skoolbus :D

[BgBlkXj]

hey, i just bought one of these chassis' off ebay, do they come with the center pins to attach the uppers to the axle :?:


Adam

[skoolbus]

No, they don't come with the center pins. Are you the guy I talked to already? :wink:

[skoolbus]

Instead of eating up space here at RCC, I'm just going to continue my project "SKINSLIP"in this thread.If anyone cares to ck it out, it's going to take awhile skinslip is on a budget.

I haven't said much about this one, but this isn't a tutorial just a buildup for me. I have built the chassis. I have built the suspension links with carbon fiber and the steering links with fiber resin. 6-32. I plan on using an EVX SR5dave is going to try to hook me up with, if I can fix it. The truck is going to have a higher center of gravity and will probobly break parts with the power. :cry:

This first pic shows the cutting I decided needed to be done to get more arcticulation. You can see the long thin strip I removed from the sideplates, it look like a modified juggy frame.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3135/chassiscut.jpg


In this pic you can see where I lowered the chassis braces so my batteries would lie flat with the top of the chassis. The COG is high, but not sticking way up in the air.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4281/chassislowered.jpg


Here is a picture of the batteries flush in the chassis, snug and at home.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1238/chassisbatts.jpg

Another repetative body pic, but it does have the skinslip logo I made on it.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6779/truck.jpg


Dave this is the type of link I'm switching to. It is a fiber/epoxy link. The wall thickness is not much, but along with 6-32, or in your case 8-32 to bounce off they won't break. I've done an added bonus and used a small hit of shrinkwrap on these, no reason exept they really look profesional. I've also left of the nuts, I dunno, something different and they work and look really good.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9498/sr5davelink.jpg

Now to find that brizzly post on downsizing pics, I just got this e wire or 32 wire whatever and all my settings are scrambled. Till next time :!:

[SR5Dave]

They look sweet man!! I will send out my links tommorow, maybe the day after (I have to make a run to my LHS to get more ends)

As for that broken inner, I was impressed too! I don't think it will be a common occurence though.. (I hope!)

[skoolbus]

:o Well, today I posted the last of the chassis on Ebay I have 1 left up for sale at a .99cents opening bid hehe. It's been an interesting experience. I found that people are cheap, :lol: and I honestly don't know how the lil guys make it in a not so swarming popular hobby. I guess you keep your day job. I only had 1 complaint of all 9 trucks sold and that was one person had a nylon link mount that kept sliding on the link, but we took care of it.

:o Profit is hard to figure out on these things because I can do the materials and sales down to the penny basically, but the time involved you can't put a price on. I tried to build the chassis in the best "manufacturing" way as possible, but out of your kitchen with a dremal, your not really manufacturing anything.

:P Ultimately it did fund my last truck that there are a few pics of it here, "SKINSLIP" and I did keep the origional guinnea pig chassis of these and have been using it on my jeep. So, some hard work got a few people an affordable truck and myself my own project.

:?: Do it again?
I don't know, I know a few changes I would make if I did another lot of them, but I thought they would bring a bit more.
-I'm debating building a similar chassis with aluminum up top and a skid, along with sweet beefy links.
-Another idea is a build like my last truck in this thread, it will eat the emaxx and out crawl the twin force. Using stock motors, dual batts and a 4 link suspension the truck is good all around, but not necessarily a climber. Regardless, I would definitely build 2 max and see what the go for before diving in.

Thats is, guys wanna post some pics of how the trucks turned out feel free to hijack this thread, later.

[SR5Dave]

Its funny, the chassis market is FLOODED, you can get SO many cool things for relatively cheap.. But hard parts like link mounts, rod ends, shock mounts, stuff like that is still stupidly sky high. Even then, the RC world doesn't seem to be a place to make a ton of money, unless you can really stick with it for a long time and get your name out there.

[skoolbus]

Its funny, the chassis market is FLOODED, you can get SO many cool things for relatively cheap.. But hard parts like link mounts, rod ends, shock mounts, stuff like that is still stupidly sky high. Even then, the RC world doesn't seem to be a place to make a ton of money, unless you can really stick with it for a long time and get your name out there.

True, but I built exactly what the majority asked and it still sold for half the cheapest manufactures cost of similar product. In fact, one company makes a chassis similar to mine but a few ounces heavier for 350.00 I honestly don't know how these guys make a living, I was doing all the labor and bought a fair quantity. So more power to the pro's. It's a flooded market with more supply than demand. I think there is room for aftermarket gearboxes like a ford 9 inch, clod hybrid. We'll see.

[savagefreek]

use velcro straps to hold down the battery
15 inch wheelbase
shocks on links
links mounted to axles
allow for big electronics
possibly make links of alu and bend for greater ride height

[crazyforcrawlers]

I think there should be a long wheelbase, low center of gravity, high ground clearance, 80 degree flex, heavy duty steel frame, steel axle tubes, steel knuckles, steel shocks, and the ability to use the largest RC electric motors, and the largest tires available.

Big, powerful, super strong, heavy, and low center of gravity. :twisted:

More weight + more power + more flex + low center of gravity = MORE TRACTION

If you don't like my answer, you know what to do. :flipoff: :flipoff: ROFLMAO

[rocpede]

I think there should be a long wheelbase, low center of gravity, high ground clearance, 80 degree flex, heavy duty steel frame, steel axle tubes, steel knuckles, steel shocks, and the ability to use the largest RC electric motors, and the largest tires available.

Big, powerful, super strong, heavy, and low center of gravity. :twisted:

More weight + more power + more flex + low center of gravity = MORE TRACTION

If you don't like my answer, you know what to do. :flipoff: :flipoff: ROFLMAO
did u know this post is little over 2 years old.

rich

[ThinkTank]

yay a 2 year old thread comes back to life:lol:

[clodstall]

wow would like to see it finished.